BeanAnimal parts list?

[buckeye82]

I put one in there because the original bean animal plans had one . It's just a ball valve, not a gate. And to be honest I don't really know when or if I'll ever use it.

As for the john guest, can I just drill a hole in the top of the 90 of the open channel? To do this I assume the water level would need to be below the hole and the hole would need to be below the emergency drain height (which as mentioned above I think I need to lower a tad).

here is what I did for the John guest. Yes, water level below hole

 

[Drakonis]

The durso should not be fully submerged, the idea is the full syphon is adjusted so water is only half to three fourths up the elbow fittings of the durso and fine tuned to make it silent. the air is so water clings to the walls of the durso and doesnt slosh hence the silent operation. i would valve and union all 3 as you never know when or why it will be needed but come the day you need it you will be glad its there

 

[mr11]

Appreciate all the tips everyone. While we're at it, any opinions on this return line plumbing? 3/4" the whole way.

 

[Drakonis]

Most all pumps are best run at pipe size of outlet

 

[mr11]

The outlet is also 3/4"

 

[Drakonis]

Over sizing return plumbing increases back pressure via head pressure on pump. aside from additional head pressure due to additional water weight, you reduce velocity of fluid. there is a mathimatical equasion to compare volume vs velocity vs back pressure to get dialed in on the sweet spot but the simple answer is pump outlet size is best pump size

 

[ReeferBob]

Return plumbing looks good! What is on the other side? Loc-line?

 

[mr11]

Yeah I have loc line on the way, reducing down to .5" loc line. A member on another forum mentioned that I have uneven return since one path is so much longer than the other. What do you think?

 

[Drakonis]

Will definitely effect flow but with half inch loc line if its restrictive enough it will help equalize it.

 

[ReeferBob]

Yeah I have loc line on the way, reducing down to .5" loc line. A member on another forum mentioned that I have uneven return since one path is so much longer than the other. What do you think?

Hard to say actually the vertical distance is equal. The horizontal doesn't steel as much head. And Drakonis' point it valid. You will get flow out of all of your locline diffusers but you will get a little more on the one right above the return. You could always plumb in a valve on the left you have plenty of room for it.

 

[jgvergo]

I recommend that you do NOT glue the pipes in the overflow. Getting the heights right took me some trial and error and I was able to swap in/out new pipes with ease. There is no reason to glue them anyway.

 

[mr11]

Note taken. Nothing inside the overflow will be glued.

Just a tip for anyone who is reading this who has never glued pvc before: the pipes went significantly further into the fittings once glued and primed than I could force in while dry fitting. This caused everything to be shorter than expected and messed up my game a little.

 

[ReeferBob]

Note taken. Nothing inside the overflow will be glued.

Just a tip for anyone who is reading this who has never glued pvc before: the pipes went significantly further into the fittings once glued and primed than I could force in while dry fitting. This caused everything to be shorter than expected and messed up my game a little.

lol +1. Also do NOT try to dry-fit once you have used the primer on the fittings! You can measure how much the fittings will go in using the stop on the fitting. I also suggest once you have it dry fitted, put a witness line on the fittings and the pipes so you can re-align them easily once you glue them.

 

[rlugo113]

This post is saving me from having to dig through a zillion posts on the mega thread. Thank a bunch!!

 

[mr11]

Also do NOT try to dry-fit once you have used the primer on the fittings! I also suggest once you have it dry fitted, put a witness line on the fittings and the pipes so you can re-align them easily once you glue them.

AGREED, I accidentally had some primer run down the inside of an elbow, I then dry fit another pipe into that elbow to confirm some measurements. Holy cowfish was it hard to separate :mad:. The more you know. And yeah witness lines are a life saver. Those compression fittings also allow you to rotate everything downstream of them which helps with alignment.

This post is saving me from having to dig through a zillion posts on the mega thread. Thank a bunch!!

Glad it helps. For what it's worth I was really intimidated by this whole process and having NO experience with plumbing or DIY for that matter. Once I got into it it really hasn't been that bad or difficult. Notice I'm saying all of this now before adding water.... so I hope I did it right...

 

[mr11]

Is there a way to test out my overflow without filling the whole tank?

 

[Blitzie]

There is not really a way to test it without filling the tank.
When you do start to test it do several tests to make sure it restarts properly after a power lost situation. If you do have a problem with the siphon restarting it is usually because your siphon pipe ends too far under the waterline in the sump. I have mine set to terminate about 1/4 inch below the surface and I also cut the end of that pipe at an angle.
Also if you want to simplify the JG fitting on the secondary I did this on mine with a simple tapped hole. I was then able to just rotate the fitting to set the correct height I wanted it at

 

[fishbox]

Great idea!!

 

[cracker]

Why the tee's (durso fashion) on the full siphon and trickle drains? thanks

 

[mr11]

Thanks for the feedback. I end up just drilling a 1/4" hole into the top elbow of the open channel.

Filled her up last night and aside from one easily fixed bulkhead leak everything works great. I had to shorten my main overflow as there wasn't quite enough difference between the height of my main and open channels to develop a siphon.