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dude...
you can get 3x wifi controlled black boxes by evergrow for like $450
and I am broke. But does it effect the health of the tank is my question?
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dude...
you can get 3x wifi controlled black boxes by evergrow for like $450
and I am broke. But does it effect the health of the tank is my question?
yea that 60 cube or 72 bow with 30g fuge sounding pretty good right now eh?
no. On off is fine. butand I am broke. But does it effect the health of the tank is my question?
no.
ask the kids running metal halide and t5. they cant dim their lights lol
im just giving you perspective so you can be successful.
Oh I am LED all the way, seems like a no brainer with the energy conservation, less heat, and longer lasting bulbs, not to mention beautiful color. Like I even have tank...
...so a little advice.
just because they advertise 50,000 hours doesnt mean itll last that. please... do not skimp on lights.
sbreeflights have got some leds built like a tank for a slightly higher premium and (i believe) a 2 year warranty
Sump, skimmer, RODI, return pump, power heads, heater, ATO and lights pretty much covers the must haves. A lot of people run w/o ATO but its a key to stability and its a pain w/o it. I think my 200 evaps 2-3g a day and I'm not lugging buckets. People will argue about the skimmer but IMO its THE most critical piece (along with lights) that can't be done w/o on probably 98% of reef tanks AND should not be skimped on. I've never been a big water changer either and they usually do just fine when you take into account water replaced from evap and from skimming. An occasional major cleaning and water change usually suffice. I've had tanks that did quite well like that but I'm turning a little more to more frequent water changes as I stock and feed heavier. I'll never be one of the 10-20% a week changers but I may do more as I implement an auto water change. Probably the only thing I have not automated yet and the biggest PIA. There's always going to be some manual work involved but automation is key to being able to enjoy your tank more and not have it be a constant task.
From there in terms of automation for the sake of stability and ease of use.
1) Controller for everything.
2) Calcium reactor, kalk mixer or doser for two part.
3) You can always use bags in sump for some things like carbon but eventually your probably going to need/want some sort of media reactor for things like carbon, GFO, bio pellets, zeovit etc. etc.
4) Optional and arguable but I have always used ozone and find it invaluable for water quality and skimmer effectiveness. With it controlled and reacting to orp it provides some level of security as a safety net when say something dies off and pollutes the tank. Plus to some degree it provides some of the benefits of a UV sterilizer.
I can say with certainty no matter what you buy and how good it is stuff will eventually break. But biting the bullet now for the best price/performance that meets the needs of your tank will save you more grief and expense in the long run.
copper. metals. hell... ask flint mighigan how that is working for themSomeone please tell me why an RODI is needed? Could I not fill up a brute can with water and let it "distill" for a week?
Stupendous! What is GAC and GFO? How often and how much do you change water?
one of the best parts of the hobby is research, and learning.Someone please tell me why an RODI is needed? Could I not fill up a brute can with water and let it "distill" for a week?
Stupendous! What is GAC and GFO? How often and how much do you change water?
like other veterans have stated. once you know your tanks personality/caveats, things get simpler.I forgot to add I did water changes frequently when the tank was new. Once I saw both my phosphate and nitrate go from detectable to not detectable I was able to back off the water changes. Don't know if you could take that strategy from day 1. It's something I worked up to.

