Best Practices And Procedures for Avoiding Large Tank Crashes and Disasters?
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thewackyreefer
(formerly luvmyacans)
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- Michigan
Wow! I love watching this come together! Can't wait to see how it all turns out.
dennis5546
Community Member
A Controller is a must investment! It will alert you if thier is trouble with your tank. A heater that doesnt dies is no big problem. A heater that stay in the on position Big problem which your controller can turn off if the temp gets to high. I can monitor my tank via the droid and get email alerts if things go bad.
Keep things simple. Its better to have a few good strong pumps them a bunch of cheap pumps.
You can buy cheap Halides for $9 which ares fine for growing sps but if the glass cracks due to large fish splashing water on them(happen to me), they will bleach and kill off alot of coral in a short period of time or you can buy the Radium halides for about $75 they will turn off if the glass bulb breaks. The Radiums will give your corals brighter colors
400 gallon tank holds alot of fish, problem is more fish more maintence required no matter what size. Try to intoduce your tangs and angels first.
To avoid unwanted pest I wouldnt use live rock start with dry rock cheaper and it will become live in a short period of time.
Dont waste money on cleaner crews(snails, crabs, hermits). They do well in dirty tanks but starve in a clean tank, die, and dirty the tank.
Dennis
Keep things simple. Its better to have a few good strong pumps them a bunch of cheap pumps.
You can buy cheap Halides for $9 which ares fine for growing sps but if the glass cracks due to large fish splashing water on them(happen to me), they will bleach and kill off alot of coral in a short period of time or you can buy the Radium halides for about $75 they will turn off if the glass bulb breaks. The Radiums will give your corals brighter colors
400 gallon tank holds alot of fish, problem is more fish more maintence required no matter what size. Try to intoduce your tangs and angels first.
To avoid unwanted pest I wouldnt use live rock start with dry rock cheaper and it will become live in a short period of time.
Dont waste money on cleaner crews(snails, crabs, hermits). They do well in dirty tanks but starve in a clean tank, die, and dirty the tank.
Dennis
dennis5546
Community Member
Must keep spares to keep on hand:
Halide bulb
return pump
heater
75 gallons of salt water ( I keep 50 gallons on hand)
5 gallons RO water
Halide bulb
return pump
heater
75 gallons of salt water ( I keep 50 gallons on hand)
5 gallons RO water
robf
Active Member
Thanks Dennis. I'm planning on using 4 400W MH dimmable with 4x48 strips of Reef Brite LED's. Do you run any products to export PO or NO3 like the Brightwell products? Just curious as to how you keep your water pristine. How often and how much water do you change? Any tips are much appreciated.
dennis5546
Community Member
I don’t dose or add additives so I do a 20% water (25gallons) change every 2 weeks (this takes about 20 minutes from start tofinish). I rarely test my water except salinity of my saltwater mixing tankthis keeps things simple. I have 10 fish in the tank reducing nutrients. With 4x400 MH I would make sure your fish roomhas plenty of ventilation and exhaust. If you can have your ballast andchillers in a separate room to reduce the heat buildup thus reduce wear andtear on the chiller. Keep the tank at 77-78 this will help keep the back roomcooler.
There always a debate, blue or black background. My rule ofthumb is if you plan on keeping the back of the glass clean then blue sinceblue helps with the light reflection. If you plan on letting things grow on theback which will allow fish to graze off the back glass then go with black(lesswork). Or just go with what you like.
When you install the Halides make sure you can adjust the heightof them for clean and adjust light on your corals as needed. Touching a 400watthalide is not fun. The light I recommend putting on a separate circuit then thepumps. Also with your controllers have the halides turn on in 15 increments to preventthe shock of 1600 watts of light all at once and reduce a breaker from goingoff. It also creates the natural sun rise. Are you using the LEDS as the actinicblue? I have 2 48inch VHOS with softens the Halides and much cheaper than the halides. China is just starting to tap into theLEDs for reef tanks so LEDs should drop down in price drastically in a coupleyears.
Reef2Reef is a great forum but you should try to find onelocal to meet other reefers. You can getnice deals with veteran reefers. 80% of my corals are from the Richmond reefersclub or from online much cheaper than the local fish store. Fish I always buyfrom the local fish store after researching to make sure they are compatiblewith the corals and other fish.
You may want to train one of your employees on your reefsetup incase emergencies when you can’t get to the shop. I asked a guy in theoffice to feed my fish at the office and I came in to find the tank floating with7 days’ worth of food. I couldunderstand how he put so much food in the tank after I showed him how much tofeed. He had shaken the can of food to get the flakes in the tank instead ofgrabbing a small pinch. Just shows simple tasks can cause big problems with thetank.
When you’re ready for coral I can send links of nicewebsites to get some nice prize corals that are worth fragging for trade ormoney. For example I have a sunny D Zoas with cost between $25-$50 for a singlepolyp I have dozens of them, witch I sell each month to pay for my salt.
There always a debate, blue or black background. My rule ofthumb is if you plan on keeping the back of the glass clean then blue sinceblue helps with the light reflection. If you plan on letting things grow on theback which will allow fish to graze off the back glass then go with black(lesswork). Or just go with what you like.
When you install the Halides make sure you can adjust the heightof them for clean and adjust light on your corals as needed. Touching a 400watthalide is not fun. The light I recommend putting on a separate circuit then thepumps. Also with your controllers have the halides turn on in 15 increments to preventthe shock of 1600 watts of light all at once and reduce a breaker from goingoff. It also creates the natural sun rise. Are you using the LEDS as the actinicblue? I have 2 48inch VHOS with softens the Halides and much cheaper than the halides. China is just starting to tap into theLEDs for reef tanks so LEDs should drop down in price drastically in a coupleyears.
Reef2Reef is a great forum but you should try to find onelocal to meet other reefers. You can getnice deals with veteran reefers. 80% of my corals are from the Richmond reefersclub or from online much cheaper than the local fish store. Fish I always buyfrom the local fish store after researching to make sure they are compatiblewith the corals and other fish.
You may want to train one of your employees on your reefsetup incase emergencies when you can’t get to the shop. I asked a guy in theoffice to feed my fish at the office and I came in to find the tank floating with7 days’ worth of food. I couldunderstand how he put so much food in the tank after I showed him how much tofeed. He had shaken the can of food to get the flakes in the tank instead ofgrabbing a small pinch. Just shows simple tasks can cause big problems with thetank.
When you’re ready for coral I can send links of nicewebsites to get some nice prize corals that are worth fragging for trade ormoney. For example I have a sunny D Zoas with cost between $25-$50 for a singlepolyp I have dozens of them, witch I sell each month to pay for my salt.
robf
Active Member
All great advice. Thanks. Q on the cleaner crew.... Do you mean never add them or that it's a waste on a new install? I am a member of the Bloominton Normal Reef club and have posted some of these photos there as well but I don't yet know anyone. Charlie Traynor who owns Aquarium Obsessions fish store in Bartonville has been really helpful. He has a older retired guy who works pt on sundays and lives about 5 miles from the factort that I hope to tap for fish help and maybe even willing to check in on my tank during holiday breaks and vacations. Your tank looks amazing. What is the longest you've ever left it unattended? What about Deep Sand Beds in Sumps. I'm leaning away from it for this tank because it seems like it will be hard to keep clean. The plan for the Controller is to put an extra power bar on my Neptune controller. Each 8 outlet powerbar will be wired to a separate breaker. I'm running 2 dart pumps in parallel with check valves in front. In the event of a circuit breaker trip. I'll have on dart pump running providing filtered/heated water to the display. At this juncture I'm not willing to spend the money for a generator but I will invest in battery backup for my Tunze powerheads. Tunze sells a nice unit that allows you to use your choice of 12v batteries. Basically I'd like to ensure 4-6 hours of powerhead operation in the event of a power failure. Any more than that and the tank will be in big trouble anyway because of the lack of filtration and heat.
dennis5546
Community Member
Cleaner Crews are great for poorly maintained tanks. However, in a well-cleaned tank they will starve and feed off each other. Cleaner crews can be a nuisance to corals and fish. I had a balk long spine urchin in my office tank. It kept all the algae off the rocks and glass. But as it grew its feeding requirements grew thus it started eating Zoas. But it died a month ago during a 3 day power loss at the office over the weekend. I lost one fish, urchin, and 2 banded coral shrimps. The rest all came back fine.
People often ask me how long a tank can go without power. That is not a simply answer. The bio load determines how fast things can go bad. My 29 gal biocube did well because I only had dwarf angel, clown, blenny. If I had known the office had lost power I would have brought home the invertebrates, fish, and keep them in my sump until power was restored. Invertebrates (shrimp, star fish, urchins) will be the first lost in your tank which adds to the crash of the tank. Next your fish will start stressing and be next to die. Your corals will follow. Softies are tough and even if they die they will grow back. I house was without power for 5 days after a bad hurricane. I had 20 gallons of gas but as you know, a generator can go through gas fast so I rationed the generator only running 16 hours a day, which kept my refrigerator, pumps, small window ac unit all on. The ac unit kept the fish room cool. The coral was fine with out the lights. I just kept the window shades up to provide natural light. I tank should be able to go without power for 8 hours but that is all pending on the bio-load.
Deep sand beds is a old filtering method which few use except a few old timers. It has a couple benefits but if you lose power, it can create more problems than it is worth. I just keep some golf ball size rocks in my sump. And once a year take the rocks out to rinse. My display tank has ½ inch layer of sand in only the front. I keep two pistol shrimps in the display with a sand star fish which keeps the sand bed stirred prevent pockets. The pistol shrimp keep debris from building up under the rocks in the display tank. You will also want to buy fish that help the tank. I have a yellow wrasse which I use to remove pyramid snails which are harmful to clams. I have two peppermint shrimp to remove aptasias. Star Blenny to reduce algae growth. I have a pink pincushion urchin in my sump that helps keep it tidy. I think you get the point try to buy tank mates that benefit the overall tank.
I travel a lot and have been gone a period of 2 weeks. My wife helps by feeding the fish. Problem with non-reef hobbyist is he or she over feed to make the fish happy. Before any long trip I inspect everything in the tank and give my wife a POC # I have come back to find the glass not cleaned, skimmer cup overflowing which is no big deal if in the sump but if its outside the sump it could create a mess. If Im gone that long I do my water change prior and after my trip. Have POC#s in your fish room so your employees have someone to call if they feel there is a problem.
Here is the links to my 29 biocube office and home 150 tall tank My (new to me) used 29 Oceanic BioCube Aquarium Systems and My new 150 tall build
Dennis
People often ask me how long a tank can go without power. That is not a simply answer. The bio load determines how fast things can go bad. My 29 gal biocube did well because I only had dwarf angel, clown, blenny. If I had known the office had lost power I would have brought home the invertebrates, fish, and keep them in my sump until power was restored. Invertebrates (shrimp, star fish, urchins) will be the first lost in your tank which adds to the crash of the tank. Next your fish will start stressing and be next to die. Your corals will follow. Softies are tough and even if they die they will grow back. I house was without power for 5 days after a bad hurricane. I had 20 gallons of gas but as you know, a generator can go through gas fast so I rationed the generator only running 16 hours a day, which kept my refrigerator, pumps, small window ac unit all on. The ac unit kept the fish room cool. The coral was fine with out the lights. I just kept the window shades up to provide natural light. I tank should be able to go without power for 8 hours but that is all pending on the bio-load.
Deep sand beds is a old filtering method which few use except a few old timers. It has a couple benefits but if you lose power, it can create more problems than it is worth. I just keep some golf ball size rocks in my sump. And once a year take the rocks out to rinse. My display tank has ½ inch layer of sand in only the front. I keep two pistol shrimps in the display with a sand star fish which keeps the sand bed stirred prevent pockets. The pistol shrimp keep debris from building up under the rocks in the display tank. You will also want to buy fish that help the tank. I have a yellow wrasse which I use to remove pyramid snails which are harmful to clams. I have two peppermint shrimp to remove aptasias. Star Blenny to reduce algae growth. I have a pink pincushion urchin in my sump that helps keep it tidy. I think you get the point try to buy tank mates that benefit the overall tank.
I travel a lot and have been gone a period of 2 weeks. My wife helps by feeding the fish. Problem with non-reef hobbyist is he or she over feed to make the fish happy. Before any long trip I inspect everything in the tank and give my wife a POC # I have come back to find the glass not cleaned, skimmer cup overflowing which is no big deal if in the sump but if its outside the sump it could create a mess. If Im gone that long I do my water change prior and after my trip. Have POC#s in your fish room so your employees have someone to call if they feel there is a problem.
Here is the links to my 29 biocube office and home 150 tall tank My (new to me) used 29 Oceanic BioCube Aquarium Systems and My new 150 tall build
Dennis
robf
Active Member
Here's today's progress.....picked up a 6kw natural gas fired generator set with an automatic transfer switch. The stand and tank top were finished painted with black polyurethane. They'll cure over the weekend and be ready to go. Also we are lining the walls with vinyl wallboard. Ordered a Neptune controller and extra powerbar, Vertex reactors from Aquarium Obsessions. Charlie at AO is also coordinating the acrylic for skinning the back of the tank from Aquarium Obsessions. These items will take a bit to come in.
robf
Active Member
Today we brought in the stand and muscled the HEAVY tank into place. We wanted the tank on a piece of foam but to slide it in place we placed a piece of acrylic on top of the foam and put dishsoap to make the 900lb tank slide a bit. It worked! Phew!
KJAG
Rogue
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Very nice build dude.FWIW: Maybe re-think the check valve(s). I believe it was William Burnett (beananimal) who said " A check valve has roughly 100% chance of failure. "
Shauno
Active Member
I did not see these already covered, I may have missed it:
Redundancy is a must for a tank this size. Make sure you have plenty of capacity with your electrical panel. I would have multiple circuits overlapping differing equipment.
Spares. Equipment can/will fail at the most opportune time and ordering a replacement can cost you dearly in $$, livestock and frustration.
Make sure you have a spare on hand, JIC.
Looks like you have enough input else wise. BTW, looking great!
Redundancy is a must for a tank this size. Make sure you have plenty of capacity with your electrical panel. I would have multiple circuits overlapping differing equipment.
Spares. Equipment can/will fail at the most opportune time and ordering a replacement can cost you dearly in $$, livestock and frustration.
Make sure you have a spare on hand, JIC.
Looks like you have enough input else wise. BTW, looking great!
Last edited:
robf
Active Member
So true! LOL. In fact technically the more backup equipment you add the more complexity, the more failure points you also add. Check valves must be cleaned periodically but how else can one prevent backflow?
robf
Active Member
I think I got it covered. 2 recirc pumps in parallel each one on a separate powerbar on a separate circuit. All circuits backed up with standby generator. Duplicate heaters as well as multiple powerheads. Anything else I might consider? As far as spares I plan on having extra bulbs ballasts heaters and powerheads on hand. No redundancy on the chiller however cuz they are very expensive. I do plan on shutting off lights and turning on fans when temps rise via the Apex.
robf
Active Member
Today we put in an emergency drain and sump for a sink as I didn't have a drain in this room. I'm planning on pumping out to a vent pipe in the bathroom.
Here are the latest build pics...
This tank will be connected to my main display sump but visible from the opposite side where the engineering department works. It will give me a place to either grow out frags or to put some smaller fish and softies in for viewing.
Saltwater mixing station tanks and a tank for my renew water changing system.
This will be an emergency drain in case of a spill.
This tank will be a sump to hold waste from my sink. It will be pumped out to a vent in the restroom adjacent.
Here is where I will put my quarantine tank(s).....this has yet to be finalized. On the right is my electric panel with automatic transfer switch for generator.On the back wall of the fish room I'd like to put a quarantine tank but am not sure what I want. I'd like it to be interesting to look at as well as practical as it will be view-able by employees in the engineering department. I have limited space so I'd like to keep my QT length to be not longer than 54 inches. I am considering keeping the display tank water from the Renew system to replenishes the QT tank. The excess QT tank can then drain into a stand pipe and out a drain. This would reduce maintenance by making use of the display tanks regular water changes yet keeping a completely separate body of water for quarantine. The only time this would not be effective is when I have to medicate the tank whereby I'd want to bypass changing water if I need more time for the fish to swim in the medicated water. Ideally I'd like a separate tank for corals and for fish as medications would potential harm corals and vice versa. Everything must happen in this limited space if possible. I do have ability to put one tank above another (fish over coral) so long as I keep the top tank low enough to still work on. Any suggestions here?
Hole in concrete for sink sump. A counter top and deep sink will go over the top of this space. This is where I will do my testing and cleaning of tank equipment.
Sump fits. Now to dig it out. Sorry for my finger in the pic
Hole for emergency drain is finished. We are located on almost pure sand bed. In emergency, this will be able to handle a ton of water.
Another shot from behind the tank in the fish room.
The other side of the room. For now the tank and sump are covered with plastic to keep them as clean as possible.
Here are the latest build pics...
This tank will be connected to my main display sump but visible from the opposite side where the engineering department works. It will give me a place to either grow out frags or to put some smaller fish and softies in for viewing.
Saltwater mixing station tanks and a tank for my renew water changing system.
This will be an emergency drain in case of a spill.
This tank will be a sump to hold waste from my sink. It will be pumped out to a vent in the restroom adjacent.
Here is where I will put my quarantine tank(s).....this has yet to be finalized. On the right is my electric panel with automatic transfer switch for generator.On the back wall of the fish room I'd like to put a quarantine tank but am not sure what I want. I'd like it to be interesting to look at as well as practical as it will be view-able by employees in the engineering department. I have limited space so I'd like to keep my QT length to be not longer than 54 inches. I am considering keeping the display tank water from the Renew system to replenishes the QT tank. The excess QT tank can then drain into a stand pipe and out a drain. This would reduce maintenance by making use of the display tanks regular water changes yet keeping a completely separate body of water for quarantine. The only time this would not be effective is when I have to medicate the tank whereby I'd want to bypass changing water if I need more time for the fish to swim in the medicated water. Ideally I'd like a separate tank for corals and for fish as medications would potential harm corals and vice versa. Everything must happen in this limited space if possible. I do have ability to put one tank above another (fish over coral) so long as I keep the top tank low enough to still work on. Any suggestions here?
Hole in concrete for sink sump. A counter top and deep sink will go over the top of this space. This is where I will do my testing and cleaning of tank equipment.
Sump fits. Now to dig it out. Sorry for my finger in the pic
Hole for emergency drain is finished. We are located on almost pure sand bed. In emergency, this will be able to handle a ton of water.
Another shot from behind the tank in the fish room.
The other side of the room. For now the tank and sump are covered with plastic to keep them as clean as possible.
