Bio Pellets

reefer1 · Jun 8, 2015

I have been running a bio pellet reactor for over a year in my reef tank. Previously, when the bio pellet level decreased, I just added more pellets (after soaking in Ro/Di water). I estimate I added about 25% of the original amount. All the pellets are constantly tumbling.
Do I need to reseed?
Is it necessary to reseed periodically?

Randy Holmes-Farley · Jun 8, 2015

What do you mean by reseed?

The bacteria needed will be present on the existing pellets and in the surrounding water, so the pellets should get seeded from that. I'm not aware of a product with the right bacteria for biopellets, but perhaps there is one now.

reefer1 · Jun 8, 2015

When I first set-up my bio pellets it was recommended to use KZ's zeobak to seed the system.

Randy Holmes-Farley · Jun 9, 2015

The bacteria that grow on biopellets are rather specialized. I personally wouldn't assume that a bacteria product not specifically intended for that purpose would be helpful. In any case, the old pellets are almost certainly a lot more useful in that regard since they are already coated with the right bacteria.

Downbeach · Jun 9, 2015

If you have an existing BP reactor, and are just replenishing the pellets, there would be no need to reseed since the existing pellets already are colonized with the bacteria needed. Before I added a BP reactor, I was dosing some Biodigest and Bioptim from Prodibio, but don't know if it had any real affect on colonizing the appropriate bacteria, and I'm not sure anyone really knows what particular strain that is, or that it really matters.

reefer1 · Jun 9, 2015

Thanks Everyone.
On a related note. Periodically, the scum produced by the bio-pellets will clog the screen in the reactor. I have in turn rinsed out the screen and dumped out the scum in the reactor before restarting the reactor. (Basically swirling the fluid in the reactor, separating the scum from the bio-pellets, and allowing it to rise so it can be dumped out. I need to dump the scum in the reactor so that it doesn't clog right away.) I am assuming the coating on the biopellets in at the micro organism level.
Is this correct?

redfishbluefish · Jun 9, 2015

Yep....coating the pellets.

Downbeach · Jun 9, 2015

reefer1 said:
Thanks Everyone.
On a related note. Periodically, the scum produced by the bio-pellets will clog the screen in the reactor. I have in turn rinsed out the screen and dumped out the scum in the reactor before restarting the reactor. (Basically swirling the fluid in the reactor, separating the scum from the bio-pellets, and allowing it to rise so it can be dumped out. I need to dump the scum in the reactor so that it doesn't clog right away.) I am assuming the coating on the biopellets in at the micro organism level.
Is this correct?

What reactor are you using? Do you have an adjustable flow pump or valve? If a mulm is developing on the pellets/screening, you may not have enough flow. Fine tuning it is part of the long term success to set it and forget it.

reefer1 · Jun 9, 2015

I have a Two Little Fishies 150 reactor (fits in the space) driven by a Maxi-Jet 1200. I modified it to work with bio-pellets and get very good tumbling. There is a valve between the pump and reactor (which is wide open).
Do you think I need even more flow to push all of the mulm through the screen?

Downbeach · Jun 9, 2015

reefer1 said:
I have a Two Little Fishies 150 reactor (fits in the space) driven by a Maxi-Jet 1200. I modified it to work with bio-pellets and get very good tumbling. There is a valve between the pump and reactor (which is wide open).
Do you think I need even more flow to push all of the mulm through the screen?

You removed the sponges too right? How full is the reactor, static and running? I'm guessing, using my experience with BP's, I had a RO BR-110 on my system that had a very small mesh at the top to keep the pellets from escaping. This mesh would be somewhat smaller than the plastic canvas circles used to modify your reactor. So, I'm guessing that you may need to increase your flow. Another thought; are you using any other carbon source, i.e. vinegar, vodka, NOPOX, etc.? If so, I've known that to be a problem that will create your condition.

reefer1 · Jun 9, 2015

The sponges are removed as well as the bottom interior plate. It's just the hard plastic tube running to the bottom of the reactor. At the top, I have a double screen (two red screens offset to shrink the openings so that small, consumed bio-pellets don't leak through). The reactor is approximately 1/3rd-full static and about 1/2-full when tumbling. I was previously using KZ coral vitalizer but have switched over to ultra-fuel. The coral vitalizer was generating cyano in my tank. I recall that I had a lot more mulm when using the coral vitalizer.

Downbeach · Jun 9, 2015

reefer1 said:
The sponges are removed as well as the bottom interior plate. It's just the hard plastic tube running to the bottom of the reactor. At the top, I have a double screen (two red screens offset to shrink the openings so that small, consumed bio-pellets don't leak through). The reactor is approximately 1/3rd-full static and about 1/2-full when tumbling. I was previously using KZ coral vitalizer but have switched over to ultra-fuel. The coral vitalizer was generating cyano in my tank. I recall that I had a lot more mulm when using the coral vitalizer.

I'm not familiar with that product, but it might be worth a try to stop using it for a while and see what happens. I started with a different modified reactor to try BP's and ultimately found it better to get one that was designed for their use.

reefer1 · Jun 9, 2015

What is the mulm? Is it good or bad? Is okay to remove it?
Thanks

Downbeach · Jun 9, 2015

I believe they are glycocalices secreted by the bacteria, due to rapid bacterial growth, not harmful but if enough of it isn't removed through the reactor, it will cause the pellets to stick together, and clog up the plumbing.

reefer1 · Jun 9, 2015

Thanks for all the helpful info!

Randy Holmes-Farley · Jun 10, 2015

Might just be bacteria bodies.

FLSharkvictim · Jul 30, 2017

@Randy Holmes-Farley - Question - since this is my first time running Warner Marine Ecoback BioPellets. Directions say to add 500mls of pellets per 100 gallons of water in your tank. Since I only used half of what directions say, I used only around 200-250 mls of Ecoback Plus just to be safe since this was my first time. Also, per instructions - I have the outline of the BR-70 pointed right where my intake of my Skimz Monzter series 163 DC protein skimmer is located which is the first chamber of my sump. In the past, I have always used Rowaphos and BRS Crabon ROX0.8 in my BRS Dual reactor but never could get my po4 below 0.04ppm... I just got my @Triton - ICP-OES Test results back and my PO4 was @ 0.043. I thought I would give the bio pellets a try..my question to everyone is how long do I keep these pellets tumbling - month or longer before I change them out to new ones, Or do I just keep adding to little by little? Feel free if anyone else would like to chime in?? Here is a pix of the Pellets that i am using and a Pix of my BR-70 Reactor and where my out line if pointing.

TANK INFO:
120 MIXED REEF / Mainly SPS AND LPS Corals

Randy Holmes-Farley · Jul 30, 2017

I've not used pellets before, but they do not run out of capacity while still present. They shrink and disappear as they are eaten.

So if things seems under control, I'd just add to the existing volume periodically to maintain it, or increase or decrease it as needed to maintain appropriate levels of nutrients.

OnlyTono · Jul 30, 2017

Randy is correct - you won't need to "replace" them, rather you will simply add more as they are consumed. Ive been using the exact same pellets for a few years now and they work really well.
Start slow with 1/4 of the recommended dosage and add an addition 25% ever week or two.

I replenish mine about ever 4-5 months, In that period the tank consumes about 200ml of pellets.

I run approx 300-350ml of pellets total in my 125G mixed reef