Bonding Acrylic to Glass Questions

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dwair

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So I have a 60g Cube Cade 600 S2 Tank setup. Their sump leaves a lot to be desired and I'm trying to figure out a way to fix these issues. I used their Skimmer section as a Refugium and this has presented difficulties. Mainly because the water level that goes into the media baskets and then to the return chamber is over the wall, so the macroalgae has free reign to get into my return pump section and therefore clog up my return pump.

So my idea is to buy a comb weir to install at the wall of my media baskets to allow water to pass through but keep the macroalgae in place. Problem is, they are all acrylic and this is a glass sump. Also my sump is running. I had thought maybe to just use super glue to fasten it on, but after some research I'm finding thats not a good option.

I also need to add a piece to the sock chamber cutout because as soon as you put a fresh sock in, its almost overflowing instantly. So I need to raise the water level there where it won't overflow as soon as a sock is in place. Mesh socks too mind you, not even felt.

Is GE 1 Silcone my only option? I don't want to do this, as It means I have to drain my sump and let it cure for like 48 hours, which means no filtration on my tank for those 48 hours and it won't do great for my fuge either.

Help?
 
Can you clamp it with excel bar clamps?
 
I've made several sumps out of a glass tank and used acrylic baffles in the past.
I use Momentive RTV silicone. Holds up for years.
Plus I've siliconed acrylic overflow boxes onto the back wall of glass tanks more than a few times.

You will have biological filtration in the display tank with live rock, which should be enough as long as you have a heater and good surface flow.
 
I've made several sumps out of a glass tank and used acrylic baffles in the past.
I use Momentive RTV silicone. Holds up for years.
Plus I've siliconed acrylic overflow boxes onto the back wall of glass tanks more than a few times.

You will have biological filtration in the display tank with live rock, which should be enough as long as you have a heater and good surface flow.
I do, unfortuntely my heater is in my sump. I could move it to the DT though. I've just heard that 24 hours is the standard curing time for it, but really its a week before its fully cured. So not sure what to do. Super glue won't work?
 
You can go much longer that you think without running water through a sump.
I've seen sumpless tanks that are awesome.
I would feel comfortable running my tanks without the sump for 2-3 days if I really needed to.
Feed very light, make sure there is good flow across the top of the tank, heater.
Then with the mods done to the sump, maybe run extra carbon for a couple days and a water change.
 
You can go much longer that you think without running water through a sump.
I've seen sumpless tanks that are awesome.
I would feel comfortable running my tanks without the sump for 2-3 days if I really needed to.
Feed very light, make sure there is good flow across the top of the tank, heater.
Then with the mods done to the sump, maybe run extra carbon for a couple days and a water change.
Yea I think that might be what I have to do. I considered not doing this at all and just scrapping the Fuge and going to an ATS like I probably should have done from the start. Or Get a new sump made and just run it externally until I finally get my dream tank. But then I've got to redo all plumbing and that isn't appealing lol.
 

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Just putting it out there. My acrylic to glass baffles worked great in my sump till they didn’t. I was draining water out of one chamber so had like 10” of water on one side and none on the other. It didn’t like that. When water level was just 1-2” apart or worked fine. I probably also cut my acrylic a little short and had tons of silicon. I retrospect I’ll come them a bit wider while still leaving some room for expansion.

I’ve also thought of doing the exact same thing but then siliconing a small piece of glass on either side as additional support.
 
Just putting it out there. My acrylic to glass baffles worked great in my sump till they didn’t. I was draining water out of one chamber so had like 10” of water on one side and none on the other. It didn’t like that. When water level was just 1-2” apart or worked fine. I probably also cut my acrylic a little short and had tons of silicon. I retrospect I’ll come them a bit wider while still leaving some room for expansion.

I’ve also thought of doing the exact same thing but then siliconing a small piece of glass on either side as additional support.
Yea mine won't be a baffle though. Just a weir attached to a wall.
 
I would replace the sump right from the start w what you want. Often times trying to correct stuff wastes time effort and MONEY!
 
I would replace the sump right from the start w what you want. Often times trying to correct stuff wastes time effort and MONEY!
Oh trust me, I wish I would have!!!! Problem was, that Cade uses their own ATO system that is apart of the sump with a Float valve built in. So I was forced to use this sump or go without their ATO system which at the time was a perk of not having to buy an ATO.
 
Oh I know, but I was looking for other options as you said this needs time to cure, so I'm without a sump for that entire time.

Maybe something epoxy-based? You'd have to call manufacturers and ask..... but it all needs to cure either way.

I know that one of the overflow manufacturers uses epoxy based adhesive for strong bonds.
 
Anything wrong with just throwing a bucket under your tank to throw the heater and pump in? Take out sump and let it cure properly.
 
Anything wrong with just throwing a bucket under your tank to throw the heater and pump in? Take out sump and let it cure properly.
Oh no, thats not possible. For 1 I couldn't even lift the sump, I'm not going to drain it fully. I have a full functioning refugium in there. Kinda the whole reason I'm doing this in the first place. 2 Cade screws in brackets to hold it in place. 3 having to disconnect all plumbing to do that. No I planned on draining it enough to do this, but I don't want to take the sump out. If I do that, I would just have a new one built at that point.
 
Not sure what you mean, for what silcone?
Excel bar clamps are all plastic. You said you need to attach a new piece to the partition to keep macro out of the pump section. Not sure if the layout allows for clamping. Most overflows have teeth to keep out stuff. You would just need a some sort of egg crate screen covered with plastic mesh. These clamps might do the job with out silicone

 

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