Bought used tank, need advice

[NWatt]

Don't know if anyone is talking about plumbing but I would suggest drilling the tank for the overflow down to the sump vs. A hang on type. Much less hassle and you don't have to worry about losing siphon.

 

[bif24701]

Haven't clicked buy yet.. Going to step back and sleep on it

Vortech, Tunze, Gyre. I would get one of these. You do not need to have all the flow now. Get one good pump, and then another, and then another and so on until you have what you need.

For a 6’ 125 this would be the ideal set ups:
2 MP40s, one on each end of tank.
2 Tunze 6105s, one at each end of display.
1 Gyre 250 or 280, at one end. Then add some other pumps. Like 1-2 constant speed Tunze pumps, the cost less than the controllable pumps.

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

These are the guys I get my jebao stuff from. Fastest cheapest. Also sell head only , controller only if one fails.

https://m.ebay.com/itm/Jebao-2017-T...%3A6dcc878115f0aa46dfeb0e61fffe361a%7Ciid%3A1



Each type of power head has different flow types.

An MP is a wide spread, a wp and tunze is a narrower spread , a koralia is a slightly narrower spread. A gyre is a very long wide spread.

Most beginners opt for the koralia , tunze WP spread.

$ vs $$$$ is the general difference in best flow.

I'm over a year on my wp 25 with no issue.

My aquascape would not allow for an MP40 or gyre to be at all effective.

 

[siggy]

And don't throw anything away.

Interesting that it made your top 5, your right of course. I curse every time my wife DE-CLUTTERS my shop, my neighbors call dibs on garbage day.

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

Interesting that it made your top 5, your right of course. I curse every time my wife DE-CLUTTERS my shop, my neighbors call dibs on garbage day.

Lol. Back up for your back up.

 

[AzReefn]

Bigman87 Welcome to R2R!
I by no means have the experience as the majority of folks on the forum but I may have some information that can help.
My tank is only a few months old so take what I have to offer with a grain of salt.
Since you already have the tank and rock I would get some live sand and a couple items so you can start the cycle. I chose to cycle without fish but there are many ways to cycle (see link below). I would drill your tank for an overflow (much safer than HOB) , but FIRST make sure the back panel is NOT tempered (youtube has lots of videos showing how to do this). BRS has good options for overflows and they also suggest the correct hole saw bits for them that they also carry for a good price. I did not use a jig to drill mine but I would recommend using one, just makes it that much easier...and keep it flooded with water. You will then need pcv pipe and fittings to plumb from tank to sump. I went with reinforced vinyl tubing and hose barb fittings as well as some pcv fittings on mine and a couple valves for overflow/return ( This is an informative video. )
After your tank is plumbed to the sump you will need these items below...at the minimum.
What I needed to start after I got the tank/sand/rock:

• powerheads
• return pump
• heaters (try to use 2 heaters to make up the total wattage)
• refractometer
• salt
• brute trash cans (I got two 33g, one for salt water and one for fresh water)
• Test kits for PH/Ammonia/Nitrates ( i would get Salifert. API tests are very hard to read and somewhat inaccurate from my experience)
• A source for RODI water

I used my LFS to initially fill my tank but I ended up getting this ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DSP57BQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ) since I already had an RO unit also. This cartridge lasted nearly 3 months but it will be easier and more efficient to have a dedicated RODI unit IMO.
I was also on a budget when starting out and was tempted to "try" some cheaper things....mainly my light. I got a cheap led that in the end was only good for a FOWLR tank and not so much for corals so I had to buy a second light. Definitely do your research and ask for advice on your lighting prior to buying them (don't always trust website reviews). If need be, get a cheap light if you want to keep a couple fish while you save for one that will grow corals.
The only other thing I would suggest is get macro algae for your sump once your tank cycles. I chose chaeto for my fuge and it keeps my water parameters near perfect even without a skimmer. I'm not saying you don't/won't need a skimmer. I'm saving for one now and that with my very light bio load mine does fine without one. I also will not add anymore fish/corals until I get my skimmer. Take your time, ask lots of questions and enjoy the hobby!

Below are some links you might find helpful.


https://www.saltwateraquarium.com/cycling-a-saltwater-aquarium/

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DSP57BQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0098AUF6M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003C1MADO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

~Jason

 

[BigMan87]

Vortech, Tunze, Gyre. I would get one of these. You do not need to have all the flow now. Get one good pump, and then another, and then another and so on until you have what you need.

For a 6’ 125 this would be the ideal set ups:
2 MP40s, one on each end of tank.
2 Tunze 6105s, one at each end of display.
1 Gyre 250 or 280, at one end. Then add some other pumps. Like 1-2 constant speed Tunze pumps, the cost less than the controllable pumps.

So instead of getting 3 WP 25s or 2 RW15s, I'd do better off buying 1 say, Gyre 250?

Also, do I need the controller?

 

[coil1002]

So instead of getting 3 WP 25s or 2 RW15s, I'd do better off buying 1 say, Gyre 250?

Also, do I need the controller?

A tank controller? I would say yes. You don' need an apex right out the gate but a reef keeper lite. Oh ya for the price 130 bucks it controls your heaters lights cooling fans chiller and pumps. It would cost you that in different controls. So why not have them all in one system with a nice display.

Never rely on your heaters internal tstat they often fail in the on position put it on a controller and set it a couple degrees higher than you want now you have a fail safe. If it fails on who cares the reef keeper will turn it off and if it fails off the controller will alarm. Provided you set the alarms.

That plus now it can control fans when you get to hot or a chiller. Also turn lights on and off not only when needed but if the tank gets too hot. Built in wave maker functions for power heads to randomize flow. You can expand it as you need to or bite the bullet and get an apex.

Years ago I would have said no to a tank controller but after having one I'll never run another tank with out one.

 

[coil1002]

Lol I think you where talklng about the gyre controller. In that case yes I think you do but I have never used one so I don' know for sure.

 

[bif24701]

So instead of getting 3 WP 25s or 2 RW15s, I'd do better off buying 1 say, Gyre 250?

Also, do I need the controller?

You will need the Gyre controller.

Yes, much better off. Then add one or two good powerheads down the road.

 

[BigMan87]

You will need the Gyre controller.

Yes, much better off. Then add one or two good powerheads down the road.

Right now, that one is out of my budget. It's a good $150 more than buying the other ones. Im already at about a grand in a few days. I think I'm going to get 2 rw15s and add the gyre when I get some OT at work. The combination of the 2 rw15s and gyre should be more than enough for when things start rolling along, I would think.

 

[BigMan87]

Don't know if anyone is talking about plumbing but I would suggest drilling the tank for the overflow down to the sump vs. A hang on type. Much less hassle and you don't have to worry about losing siphon.

Yea, I think I'll have the tank drilled aposed to using the overflow box. Question though, where on the tank to I get it drilled, and how many holes should I need, more than 2?

 

[BigMan87]

Skimmer, RODI, and a few more pieces are in. I ended up going over budget by a bit, but I didn't think I could pass up a deal. I went to buy 100 lbs of live rock for $65 and he offered me a LED light, a different sump setup, a box of gadgets that I need to take pics of so y'all can tell me what I have, and what he says is a Oceanic 200 gallon tank which is drilled on both sides, all for $300. The tank is heavy as get out, and while it's the same length and width as my other tank, I don't think the stand will support it. I'll probably end up selling it.

Also, do I just use Vinegar and water to clean the tank, sump, ect?

 

[BigMan87]

Bump.

Anyone have any thoughts on the LED, tank and different sump?

 

[Tim Olson]

My 2 cents...

• First of all, enjoy the journey!

• 2nd, I would consider resealing the tank with new silicone sealant as an insurance policy. I had my used 120 gallon tank spring a leak after I had it for a couple years and it wasn't pretty.

All the best!

 

[BigMan87]

My 2 cents...

• First of all, enjoy the journey!

• 2nd, I would consider resealing the tank with new silicone sealant as an insurance policy. I had my used 120 gallon tank spring a leak after I had it for a couple years and it wasn't pretty.

All the best!

Thank you, I had already thought about this, figured I'd just run another bead over the existing one.

 

[Tim Olson]

Thank you, I had already thought about this, figured I'd just run another bead over the existing one.

I was thinking the same thing when mine sprung a leak, but realized that I wouldn't work well. Evidently the new silicone doesn't bond well with the old silicone.

FWIW, here's the basic steps I used when I resealed my 120g, also here's a video I made which might be helpful ... The actual resealing part is from 4:44 to about 15:00 -

1. Did initial cutting out of the silicon with many razor blades
2. Went back over the areas repeatedly with more razor blades and Acetone
3. This is tedious work and took much longer than I was hoping for
4. The glass needs to be perfectly clean with no remaining silicone
5. Apply the silicon
   • I used Aqueon Aquarium Sealant … http://www.americanaquariumproducts.
   • The Aqueon Aquarium Sealant starts to set up in 5 minutes, which does not allow enough time to apply all the sealant and then smooth it out.
   • So, I did not mask the tank, which allowed me to apply and smooth the sealant a section at a time, which worked great.
6. Waited 5 days for it to fully cure. You could probably get by with 2-4 days, but I wanted to be sure.
7. Did water test in tank with half a tank full for a few hours, then filled fully with water and waited 1-2 days. You really should go 4-5 days of waiting for leaks.

Sorry for the long post. It's just one of the many things to think about. Hope it helps.

 

[BigMan87]

I was thinking the same thing when mine sprung a leak, but realized that I wouldn't work well. Evidently the new silicone doesn't bond well with the old silicone.

FWIW, here's the basic steps I used when I resealed my 120g, also here's a video I made which might be helpful ... The actual resealing part is from 4:44 to about 15:00 -

1. Did initial cutting out of the silicon with many razor blades
2. Went back over the areas repeatedly with more razor blades and Acetone
3. This is tedious work and took much longer than I was hoping for
4. The glass needs to be perfectly clean with no remaining silicone
5. Apply the silicon
   • I used Aqueon Aquarium Sealant … http://www.americanaquariumproducts.
   • The Aqueon Aquarium Sealant starts to set up in 5 minutes, which does not allow enough time to apply all the sealant and then smooth it out.
   • So, I did not mask the tank, which allowed me to apply and smooth the sealant a section at a time, which worked great.
6. Waited 5 days for it to fully cure. You could probably get by with 2-4 days, but I wanted to be sure.
7. Did water test in tank with half a tank full for a few hours, then filled fully with water and waited 1-2 days. You really should go 4-5 days of waiting for leaks.

Sorry for the long post. It's just one of the many things to think about. Hope it helps.

Wow that's some work. Thanks for the info.