You can start with curing the rock. This can be done while you are researching and buying other equipment and needs. Also don’t need to do the curing in the tank. Any vessel that will hold salt water, the rock, a pump and a heater will work.
Curing the rock gets it started, the whole things and maturing dry rock takes a long time so you can get a head start before you get the display up.
You need a place to put the rock where smell and extreme weather won’t be a problem.
Next you need clean water to mix your salt with and you will need access to more water through the curing and later when the tank is running. Clean water isn’t important, it’s vital! Starting with clean water will not only help prevent numerous problems but having access to clean water quickly will allow you to correct many common problems. Treated tap water won’t work for 99% of people so an RO/DI (Reverse Osmosis Deionization Resin) system if you want to keep a Reef. First you need to know if your water is treated with chloramines. Chloramines are difficult to remove, pass through the RO and even degrade it but is also very bad for aquariums because it is part ammonia, bad. Start buy contacting your water provider they will have a report you can get listing the things in your water. If you do have them an extra carbon stage in your RO/DI system can work but it’s key to have a system for this and then some test strips to detect them in the filtered water to ensure it’s working. If you do not have chloramines things are easier.
This system is the minimum system I could recommend someone starting out and will create absolutely pure water ready for salt.
https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/4-stage-75gpd-plus-ro-di-system-bulk-reef-supply.html
Provided you have a minimum of 50PSI standard utility water supply this is your system. If you have less than 50 than you will need a booster pump for any RODI system.
If you have well water I suggest at least the 5 stage Plus system.
If you don’t know what’s in your water or have heavy contaminants like chloramines then the 6 stage is the way to go. Also the 6 stage Plus has other advantages that you will learn/become aware of later so if you can afford it I would get the 6. I have the 6 Stage Water Saver Plus and its great.
You can easily upgrade a 4 stage to a 6 Stage Water Saver Plus with a kit from BRS late if you wish.
The “Plus” systems include a psi gauge, test strips and fittings to install the system. Since you are starting out and don’t have any of those things then you will need the “Plus” version of whatever 4/5/6 stage you choose. The pressure gauge include in the “Plus” is very important as it ensures you have the 50 psi needed and will indicate when the sediment filter needs changing.
So you will have your water next, salt. Any aquarium salt will do. I prefer regular Instant Ocean because of price, history, dependable, meets all needs of Reef tank, and availability. Just pick one and with a system your size I wouldn’t buy any salt smaller than a 5gallon bucket (makes ~160-175 gallons salt water depending on brand) or large box.
Next you need a way to measure the amount of salt in your water. Hydrometers don’t work well, we don’t use them because they just suck and can literally wreck your stuff. Refractometer is the way to go, find one specifically made for salt water. If you are unsure buy from a LFS (local fish store) or online aquarium shop, that’s all they carry. This will only cost you ~25-35$ but is a absolute MUST like water and salt. You also need a refractometer calibration fluid to calibrate/verify the refractometer is on point. This stuff is cheap 8$-10$$ also required.
Some LFS sell RODI or premixed salt water ready to go by the gallon. Seems cheap and usually it’s not too costly. However with your size system this wouldn’t really work. You will have to add at least 1-1.5 gallons of filtered RODI freshwater to your display system every single day just to replace evaporated water. If you don’t replace evaporated water the salt content will rise and can kill your whole system “crash”. Just get the RODI.
Now you need a container for collecting the water from the RODI system. They make about 50-75 gallons a DAY, it’s slow. Most use a Rubbermaid Brute trash can. The “Brute” is food and drinking water safe, won’t leach or contaminate your clean water, very strong/durable/flexible, and they are large enough for effective use. Any hardware store should have the Rubbermade Brute cans in either 32/44/55 gallons with lid, don’t forget the lid. Get the largest you can. They will also sell a wheeled cart that securely attaches to the bottom of Brutes so that you can move them around full of water. I have moved 55 gallon Brutes completely full of water over carpet so they are pretty useful though the cart isn’t required. Brutes are super useful/handy/convenient. You need at least something that will hold a reasonable amount of water for mixing and water changes in the future. You will be using this Brute a lot, get two of you can.
You can get a RODI float valve from BRS that can go on the Brute. This will stop the RODI water when it’s full. Since it takes so long to fill them it’s impossible to watch it all the time and you WILL forget about it and it WILL overflow one day of you don’t have something to stop the water automatically. They are pretty cheap.
Now you have your RODI water, salt, and refractometer it’s time to make salt water. Never add salt directly to water with animals in it, that would be very bad. Always add salt to water, not water to salt. You can mix your water in the Brute or the vessel for the curing of the rock. Use a pump to circulate the water within the mixing container continually and if temp is below 75 degrees a heater will be needed. Mix until water is clear, and no sediment remains on the bottom. If your pump is small you may need to stir the bottom. Make sure the pump creates movement at the surface for gas exchange. Add less salt than you need or think you need and check with the refractometer. Slowly add more salt and allow to mix several minutes and retest. Repeat until you have ~1.024-1.026 SG (specific gravity) or ~ 35ppt. The refractometer has two scales. Ensure is clear and right temp.
Now take the mixed water and the rock and put them in the vessel out of the way and some where smell won’t be a problem if it gets smelly. Place a pump to circulate the water throw out the entire vessel while ensuring there is water movement at surface for gas exchange. Put in a heater and maintain at least 70-75 degrees. Your rock is now curing.
Now that you have started the rock curing you can move to other stuff and more reading.
You can start buy researching how to continue the cure. The purpose of curing the rock is to get it ready for the display tank. Your rock was used and then dries out. This means there will be lots of dead stuff that will breakdown and create waste. You need to remove the water with either a skimmer, activated carbon, changing 100% of the water, and there are other ways to continue the cure and get the rock clean and ready. During the cure nitrifying bacteria will grow on the rock and this essentially starts your cycle. When you are ready and add the rock to the system the it will already have live active nitrifying bacteria. That could shorten the cycle time of the system. I fact, assuming all else in the system is ready, it’s possible that your system could be ready for fish the next day.
Conclusion:
Get RODI, Brute, refractometer w/calibration fluid, and start curing that rock.
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