Brand New 8 gallon bio cube

[dantimdad]

One of the main selling points when PC bulbs first came out was that they lasted 15-18 months. They are a bent T5. I have no clue why they aren't still popular as supplemental lights except they aren't as narrow. They will last just as long as a straight T5 bulb. Many cases 24 months. But, usually around 15 months.

Most people say to replace MH at 9 months. I uses to use them a year on SPS heavy tanks. If the older bluelines were still out, you could get 16 months out of them and they were at about 90% and the color shift was negligible.

While MH will always be the gold standard IMO, the energy and bulb costs have all but killed them.

 

[Katrina71]

Something like this

Or

Like the top.

 

[NY_Caveman]

I also have someone near me with 8 AI Sol Blues. If you added one or two maybe?

AI Sol Blue LED Fixture Aquarium Reef Light System

USED Aqua illumination AI Sol Blue LED Fixture Aquarium Reef Light System -White Case 8 in stock

newyork.craigslist.org

 

[dantimdad]

@Katrina71 I was meaning you when I said you. I meant a you as in everyone reading. LOL!

I agree having multiple lights in place is a good idea. I would always, if possible, go with two smaller lights rather than one big one. That way you probably won't lose all your lighting at once. On smaller tanks that's not always practical even though it is desirable. And sometimes, using multiple smaller lights is just to dang expensive.

One other thing, placement. I like the angle placement on a cube. It doesn't tend to stripe the lights from any angle you look. Also, if you put it in a corner it helps to cover more evenly from the two viewable sides. Just an observation.

 

[NY_Caveman]

I would like the angle with a corner overflow.

 

[Katrina71]

@Katrina71 I was meaning you when I said you. I meant a you as in everyone reading. LOL!

I agree having multiple lights in place is a good idea. I would always, if possible, go with two smaller lights rather than one big one. That way you probably won't lose all your lighting at once. On smaller tanks that's not always practical even though it is desirable. And sometimes, using multiple smaller lights is just to dang expensive.

One other thing, placement. I like the angle placement on a cube. It doesn't tend to stripe the lights from any angle you look. Also, if you put it in a corner it helps to cover more evenly from the two viewable sides. Just an observation.

No, I knew you meant in general, I will just tell you up front I'm ignorant with lighting. I want to learn!!! I'm honored you even explain anything. I NEVER even considered diagonal until Caveman posted that. It clicked almost immediately why, now you confirmed it. This is the stuff y'all teach me. I appreciate it more than you know.

 

[Katrina71]

I was thinking linear tank setup in my head vs our cube design.

 

[Katrina71]

Now...why can't hql double ended be over open water even if it has a glass cover? Too many uv rays?

 

[Katrina71]

I also have someone near me with 8 AI Sol Blues. If you added one or two maybe?

AI Sol Blue LED Fixture Aquarium Reef Light System

USED Aqua illumination AI Sol Blue LED Fixture Aquarium Reef Light System -White Case 8 in stock

newyork.craigslist.org

I have 4. And extra parts...

 

[sfin52]

I am gonna chime in here on lighting.

First, when running MH, I would tend to go with M80(HQI) ballasts if I could BUT, there are instances where you don't want them. Some bulbs burn whiter on HQI than on magnetic. Also, some bulbs require the pulse to be able to start (this is getting less common but the coralvue 20K don't work well on electronic ballasts) so know your bulbs.

Second, a complicated light setup spread across all genres may seem like the best of all worlds but... Let's use an example system here:

250 watt MH 6500K (best growth hands down)
T5 retrofit 2x24" running actinic/blue plus (best at reducing shadows and adding some pop and lots of color)
LED actinic supplemental bars (great for growth and pop)

Now, you would think "Great! I have all bases covered. I will grow anything" While this might be true, look at the cost of the system up front, the power usage and if you can even use this much power without frying your livestock.

You might say "Steven, I can just turn them down and then they won't use as much electricity and last longer" Really? Are your T5 and MH dimmable? MH, no. T5, yes if you spent a lot of money on them.

The current wisdom is T5/LED hybrid which I am just now testing out and will get back to you with findings but it does make sense that it would work.

I still think that, for the money, right now the best thing is a simple programmable LED setup. You can tune them to your specific needs and aesthetics and the ongoing cost is much lower compared to other forms of lighting.

Also, compare brands and USEFUL features. See if you can find PAR/PUR numbers and at least anecdotal real world spread numbers.

I think you will find your money is best spent on a mid to lower price range lighting system and the rest of the money spent on livestock. There have been many, many proven cases of the longevity and low cost maintenance on these less expensive systems so that saying long term they aren't worth it, isn't a valid argument anymore.

This is my experience and you may know better than I.

Steven. You are light guru. No doubt about that. Ive had 20k light and they have a great windex effect. 10k those are my t5 are fantastic. Brings out the red hues in the tank.
I also have a fluval 4.0 led light. Between my 4t5 and the led the colors are good ans growth is exceptional

@dantimdad I don't know better than you. That's why I brainstorm with you guys to educate me. I wouldn't want all of those lights on together unless I want a tan. I was thinking about free MH to toy with, and the LEDs I have. T5 is not terribly expensive to add. Having all 3 already mounted would buy me some time in the event of an oh crap. At least Andrew would have adequate lighting to limp through until I could financially make it right. Thoughts?

Your tank is going to be off the hook. You can have a great tank with out all the high end equipment. You have already shown that.

 

[Brew12]

I think you will find your money is best spent on a mid to lower price range lighting system and the rest of the money spent on livestock. There have been many, many proven cases of the longevity and low cost maintenance on these less expensive systems so that saying long term they aren't worth it, isn't a valid argument anymore.

Completely agree. The only reason to go on a high end lighting system is if you have money to burn and like the aesthetics. Adam at Battlecorals can grow high quality SPS using older Reefbreeder lights. If they are good enough for him (and by that, I mean non designer lights) they shouldn't be written off lightly.

While MH will always be the gold standard IMO, the energy and bulb costs have all but killed them.

Gold standard to old standard in 1500 watts.

 

[dantimdad]

@NY_Caveman I would love to have all

Now...why can't hql double ended be over open water even if it has a glass cover? Too many uv rays?

Yes, too much UV. With the glass cover on the tank, the tank inhabitants are protected, it would be you that would be exposed without the lens.

 

[Katrina71]

@NY_Caveman I would love to have all


Yes, too much UV. With the glass cover on the tank, the tank inhabitants are protected, it would be you that would be exposed without the lens.

Yay. I'm understanding this.

 

[dantimdad]

BTW, just in case it comes up: Glass used for an HQI lens. As long as it's not low iron, it'll work.

The iron in regular float glass and tempered glass add about a 4% green tint to the glass. This reduces UV to an acceptable level. I prefer tempered only because it's less likely to break but it's not necessary.

It goes without saying acrylic/polycarbonate would be worse than useless for this application.

 

[dantimdad]

Interesting bit of information here is that humans have grown so accustomed to the green tint in glass we actually perceive it as being totally clear. That's why when we see a low iron tank, it looks nearly invisible. It's also the reason the colors of the corals and fish look better as well. This effect is less noticeable in glass 6mm and under. Almost to the point to where you can't tell the difference at all.

 

[Katrina71]

I'm a redhead. I respect the UV.

 

[NY_Caveman]

I have 4. And extra parts...

Nice. Okay, then something like this maybe

 

[Katrina71]

Nice. Okay, then something like this maybe

Throw the MH in the middle.

 

[NY_Caveman]

With all four like this?

You said you had a line on a fixture? If you know the dimensions, I will update this. The grid squares are 2” square.

 

[Katrina71]

This just happened...