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No. Rakie mentioned flow. Cyano grows best in very low or no flow.Skim it? Yikes I think I'm lost here. I don't even have a tank setup yet. Are you referring to cyano for me?
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No. Rakie mentioned flow. Cyano grows best in very low or no flow.Skim it? Yikes I think I'm lost here. I don't even have a tank setup yet. Are you referring to cyano for me?
Knucklehead? You will fit right in!OIC. This is your thread LOL my bad
I am a knucklehead thank you
And vice versa. Lol.The par acceptability has to do with nutrition
Yes. Sometimes we still argue. The tank usually wins.You are married to a reef tank.
I have Radions and diffuers , the diffuers make all the difference. I reached 400 at the middle of the tank for now but as my coral grows i'll slowly increase PAR. There is nothing such as high RAR or high Flow, SPS can take it all![]()
promise), but about the most par one wants to use is maybe 200 max and flowthat is snicker material, there.I suppose every point is relative. Assuming that apples are good for you. if you eat too many of them you might **** your brains out. Lol
Jason fox says water chemistry, flow then lighting. Lighting is last.
From the lab research I have done this is far from true (I mean that ever so very nicelypromise), but about the most par one wants to use is maybe 200 max and flow
Is another issue. Yes you need flow we all know this but even I have had too much and ripped the flesh off of sps. They absolutely can not take max flow and or gobs and gobs of light. Kinda what makes reefing so hard.

="Rakie, post: 5441997, member: 78505"
Additionally, there's corals like the Vivids Tequila Sunrise seen here;
![]()
This coral needs about 400-500+ par or it's a dingy green.
The problem is everybody says something. People as experienced, or more experienced than Jason Fox can easily say one thing or another. Here's a short story for you --
So. Like all people, sometimes I'm dumb. I made the mistake of not calibrating my refractometer for like 6 months, thinking it should be pretty stable... WRONG. Very wrong... My salinity has slipped to 1.021 -- And everything was colorful and thriving still. Zero losses. In theory, that shouldn't happen. Everything should have died or been struggling to survive.
So to me, Stability trumps water chemistry. Even bad stability is desirable.
Whats the distinction? That's up to interpretation.. Some people will say "Water chemistry" = chasing perfect numbers. Others will say "Water Chemistry" = Stability + acceptable range of numbers. And others, like WWC say flow is most important.
Personally? I think the most important factor in a successful tank is flow. Because in my opinion... Telling people water chemistry is important is plain common sense. To the point I don't feel it needs to be mentioned to anybody that isn't a day 1 beginner.

IMO One of the hardest things to learn for a new Keeper is when NOT to act.over reaction
This is the art of reefing. I love your signature.The more light I add the better my colors and growth. Photoinhibition =/= to colorful corals.
That also greatly depends on the color of the corals. Dana Riddle has said the Purple Monster coral (a notorious light sponge) needs around 400 par to shine and thrive, and is quite a bit more above his average coral.
Additionally, there's corals like the Vivids Tequila Sunrise seen here;
![]()
This coral needs about 400-500+ par or it's a dingy green.
So while photoinhibition is real, it has no bearing on what we want to see from our corals -- Otherwise we'd all be running yellow 6500k bulbs (which have astounding growth) and be happy with brown and green naturally colored corals.
To add further to that -- I've got well over 150x flow in my display, and my corals love it. You cannot give corals enough flow. There's a difference between direct and indirect flow. Direct flow will absolutely kill corals, no question. Indirect flow can be nearly infinite.
In my 45g cube I run more flow than most people run in their 120g tanks. What I have is color, growth, and polyp extension.
Increasing my light to the max has also had a huge impact, as well as adding in some of the less desirable light ranges (Whites, Greens, Reds). My corals have all responded exceptionally well to all of these changes.
This is why my signature is what it is -- "Nothing is true; Everything is permitted". 15 years ago people ran massively high alk and par in the near 1000 range with 400w MH and T5VHO actinics. They had nothing but success.
There's way too many factors! This is why it's not easy to definitively say there's a true answer![]()
I 100% agree. My tank tells me even before I test.Very well said, I think a lot of crashes are due to over reaction, watch your animals people, get to the root cause of the situation!![]()

