Brand new, could use some help with cycling Info!

This thread also stands out among all cycling articles and posts because we didn’t have to consult api test kits to proceed.

The attachments to live rock indicate time periods that are far past what ammonia controlling bacteria require to deposit, pigmentation that takes years to transform white calcium carbonate into purple knurled live rock with mini star arms hanging out in the current is the most reliable indicator of a complete cycle when trading in live rock



There are some things in reefing where guess titration measures aren’t helpful, this is one. Testless skip cycle is so 2020

If moving the live rocks home killed internal worms in such a way as to matter, you’d smell it as soon as you opened the transport bag. It smelled neutral because live rock is tough and doesn’t die moving tank to tank (all aquariums at MACNA conventions too)
This rock ( which I posted earlier) was kept in a 55gal drum with filtration for awhile,was pure white when I got it and turned colors after week in my tank, I thought it was just getting dirty and was gonna clean it until I found out that is supposed to happen. Then started getting little purple spots on it, I was like— pretty cool, now can’t wait to see what happens next

F4471493-C447-4E34-8ED9-D818A70EE706.jpeg
 
The ocean water you have access to will provide endless seeding, refreshment, it will quicken the good things that happen in the tanks environment and it will provide feed and substrate (little plants and planktors) each time it's added

it's funny to think that selling basic seawater as a refrigerated and aerated aquarium doser might have more validity than today's bottle bac for bringing in microbe diversity :) quite the supply avail

Flipside: what does it do to our disease prevention protocols in marine aquarium work? Being the baddest vector on the block has tradeoffs and they may not even be bad for disease, it's just a thought from reading up in the fish forum infection challenge posts. The overall systemic health of a seawater system might be strong enough to suppress disease... it will help to study up on what zoos and large tank exhibits do or do not do when prepping incoming seawater

Disease protocols will factor some way in what they do to use seawater in long term displays. UV light sterilizers are used in nearly all of them, an interesting factor
 
The ocean water you have access to will provide endless seeding, refreshment, it will quicken the good things that happen in the tanks environment and it will provide feed and substrate (little plants and planktors) each time it's added

it's funny to think that selling basic seawater as a refrigerated and aerated aquarium doser might have more validity than today's bottle bac for bringing in microbe diversity :) quite the supply avail

Flipside: what does it do to our disease prevention protocols in marine aquarium work? Being the baddest vector on the block has tradeoffs and they may not even be bad for disease, it's just a thought from reading up in the fish forum infection challenge posts. The overall systemic health of a seawater system might be strong enough to suppress disease... it will help to study up on what zoos and large tank exhibits do or do not do when prepping incoming seawater

Disease protocols will factor some way in what they do to use seawater in long term displays. UV light sterilizers are used in nearly all of them, an interesting factor
Heck I haven’t even started learning how to use my big light with all them colors yet I’m still trying to figure out all these new big words I read in this website. Had no idea it’s that involved
 
Heck I haven’t even started learning how to use my big light with all them colors yet I’m still trying to figure out all these new big words I read in this website. Had no idea it’s that involved
Ok I have a silly method of getting all particles of crap out of my buckets of water. ( little bugs, dust dog/ people hair.ect ect) what I do is swirl the water around in clockwise direction and pick up speed until a funnel appears in the center of bucket( like a whirlpool) then wait five or more minutes until a little black speck forms in middle of bucket on bottom, then scoop out with little scoop net. After that when ready I run all water thru a screen into other bucket (all buckets I use r for saltwater only Never anything else) afterwards it’s ready for tank. Told u it was silly,,,, any of u reefers do anything similar or am I nuts if u blow up pic u can see little black spot in middle

D1010623-1B50-48B2-9932-D7D73B9F813C.jpeg
 
Richie

Save us from test error false stalled cycle claims rampant in the hobby

Show us some life in your new tank man!! :)

You're my only 2020 example of true controlled testless cycling for the article. The rest have bailed on me, cannot untangle from the tendrils of API and a hint of ammonia, or nitrite well past the cycling date 100% of google cycling charts show as the completion date.

Ante upped for good data: buy a set of cheap clean up crew animals, just a few we don't want their waste filling up early, and a couple starter corals. If those die quickly, from being in an uncycled tank, I'll PayPal you the replacement cost immediately. No timeline proofs required, if they die and you think it has to do with lack of bacteria then I'll offset em. They won't die, I'm low on free cash and would only make easy bets~
I'll pay up quickly to show trust in bac vs trust in titration
 
Last edited:
Bunmp

(like panm on step brothers)
 
Richie

Save us from test error false stalled cycle claims rampant in the hobby

Show us some life in your new tank man!! :)

You're my only 2020 example of true controlled testless cycling for the article. The rest have bailed on me, cannot untangle from the tendrils of API and a hint of ammonia, or nitrite well past the cycling date 100% of google cycling charts show as the completion date.

Ante upped for good data: buy a set of cheap clean up crew animals, just a few we don't want their waste filling up early, and a couple starter corals. If those die quickly, from being in an uncycled tank, I'll PayPal you the replacement cost immediately. No timeline proofs required, if they die and you think it has to do with lack of bacteria then I'll offset em. They won't die, I'm low on free cash and would only make easy bets~
I'll pay up quickly to show trust in bac vs trust in titration
If he doesn't I will :) I have a new Waterbox 20 cube arriving on Monday, Live rock from the Gulf of Mexico should be here Wednesday and I have live sand ready to go. This is my first time setting up a tank with live rock so I am excited to see what arrives. I have 4 fish in QT right now waiting for their new home. Sailfin blenny, tiny yellow watchman, yellow head jawfish and a firefish.
Any tips on setting up with live rock or just dump it in and off we go?
 
Hey neat it‘ll work but ocean cured rock simply commands lots of water changes for expected dieoff a while after setup. It ranges shipment to shipment

A busy time, not a hands off time of simple water changes will make your tank perfect.

aquarium cured purple rock has typical inclusions we see in a matured reef tank same pigments etc it just transfers, no recurring water changes required.

your rock is likely to have tunicates or even corals that may not adapt over. I’m 100% sure you don’t want to buy more things to offset something you’ve paid nicely for (ocean curing and shipping) such as Prime, and especially bottle bac.

the bacterial diversity one ounce of that rock brings in beats any current bottle bac for heterogeneity and quality, adding retail would bring it down in quality.

we don’t need prime, it causes all api test kits to misread even though testing is not required in your approach. If you rinse the sand very very well before use, cloudless, if you’ll rinse those new rocks in saltwater to evacuate loose hangers on, an initial clean flush so they go in on top of cloudless sand, you’ll have a cloudless skip cycle.

if it was my tank using those rocks, it would get 40% water changes every couple days then slightly extended based on performance.

water cloud is your measure of ammonia, its why you can’t let other confusing clouds like sandbed silt or live rock shipping castings as interference
 
I will for sure use your tank example keep us updated !

it takes a few months to compile my work examples for analysis and right now is the work phase, so fun.
pre rinse your sand in tap water. You’ll run out, and not throughly rinse, if you use limited supply water.

after tap rinse, evacuate tap by rinsing in RO DI


no it doesn’t harm bacteria, tap water is bac filthy it contaminates samples by delivering live bacteria, tap water is not a sterilizing agent whatsoever. It’s full of pipe scum bac that are not killed by tap, and neither does bac attached to your sand.
rinse it cloudless it’ll take an hour or more.
you can’t lose with a totally cloudless start. Cloudless start with rocks and sand and water changes after and watching for smell or cloudiness is the specific testless skip cycle approach for your setup.

in anticipating water changes, we created a cloudless sandbed that won’t be kicking up with repeated access beyond norms. Cloudless start is a specific strategy

**this rock can carry fish, but skip cycling with them breaks your quarantine efforts as fish have been around these new rocks

They need to be stocked up and coral/cuc in place then fallow for 76 days for perfect order of ops. not everyone does this practice, inputting fish into a health clean system and then feeding them top-notch is also popular, you mentioned QT so that detail stood out regarding fallow phasing.
 
Last edited:
If he doesn't I will :) I have a new Waterbox 20 cube arriving on Monday, Live rock from the Gulf of Mexico should be here Wednesday and I have live sand ready to go. This is my first time setting up a tank with live rock so I am excited to see what arrives. I have 4 fish in QT right now waiting for their new home. Sailfin blenny, tiny yellow watchman, yellow head jawfish and a firefish.
Any tips on setting up with live rock or just dump it in and off we go?
Good luck brother don’t forget ,, pics pics pics
 
I will for sure use your tank example keep us updated !

it takes a few months to compile my work examples for analysis and right now is the work phase, so fun.
pre rinse your sand in tap water. You’ll run out, and not throughly rinse, if you use limited supply water.

after tap rinse, evacuate tap by rinsing in RO DI


no it doesn’t harm bacteria, tap water is bac filthy it contaminates samples by delivering live bacteria, tap water is not a sterilizing agent whatsoever. It’s full of pipe scum bac that are not killed by tap, and neither does bac attached to your sand.
rinse it cloudless it’ll take an hour or more.
you can’t lose with a totally cloudless start. Cloudless start with rocks and sand and water changes after and watching for smell or cloudiness is the specific testless skip cycle approach for your setup.

in anticipating water changes, we created a cloudless sandbed that won’t be kicking up with repeated access beyond norms. Cloudless start is a specific strategy

**this rock can carry fish, but skip cycling with them breaks your quarantine efforts as fish have been around these new rocks

They need to be stocked up and coral/cuc in place then fallow for 76 days for perfect order of ops. not everyone does this practice, inputting fish into a health clean system and then feeding them top-notch is also popular, you mentioned QT so that detail stood out regarding fallow phasing.
As new as I am to live rock n reef things,, reading ur posts about all this is helpful and confusing at same time, it’s just so much to learn and I feel I need to learn everything quickly, but I know that’s not possible. I hear over n over again ( be patient let it do it’s thing don’t rush it) but do you know what that does to a person with OCD,, it’s hell mean heck
 
It is agreed upon impossible to get consistent setup advice in this hobby, its evolving so fast!
My recommends come from working in tank invasion threads, working backwards from a full takeover of X organism back to how the tank started. this clean rinse sand and clean rock start plus water changes is a safe way to start among options, and it prevents you kicking up cloudy waste in the tank as you change water from the rocks about to show up from the ocean.
 
It is agreed upon impossible to get consistent setup advice in this hobby, its evolving so fast!
My recommends come from working in tank invasion threads, working backwards from a full takeover of X organism back to how the tank started. this clean rinse sand and clean rock start plus water changes is a safe way to start among options, and it prevents you kicking up cloudy waste in the tank as you change water from the rocks about to show up from the ocean.
I already use pure ocean water that I get myself ( I’ve mentioned it before on other post) and when I first plugged in my tank it was nice n clear,, I had the fake multi colored pebbles on bottom at first then decided to put crushed coral instead. ( after some teasing I got from my buddy’s) I rinsed and soaked the crap out of it and let semi dry n drain. After word I placed in tank one cup at a time,, making sure the cup was basically touching the bottom of tank. But no matter how careful I was tank got so cloudy u couldn’t even see the live rocks in there. That was almost a week ago and a big water change and it’s still cloudy, I’d say only 65 percent better. Today my buddy gave me a super sucker skimmer called a Diatom Filter, only on half hour and I swear it looks better already. Crossing fingers hoping for best. If this doesn’t work out then I’m gonna start all over
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%
Back
Top