brightwells aquatics NeoMarine Reef Salt

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im going to switch to this salt when i can get it available to me. i have heard great things about it.
 
This salt reads very nice, but anyone considering a change, PLEASE do it VERY SLOWLY. Remember that we strive for stability, and at its core, stability in our system comes down to the salt mix we choose.

For me, changing salts is the biggest single change that one can make to your system, so it has to be done with caution.
 
they claim specifically designed to mix up as close to natural seawater as possible.
 
Yes, they do. However that doesn't mean that you can go from ANY salt to this one and not see an adjustment period.

This may in fact be "better" but if you are coming from brand X where your corals are happy and thriving, directly to this different salt, your coral may or may not do "better".
 
if they are trying to make it as close as possible to natural sea salt.... whats the advantage over an evaporate? I use h2ocean from deltec for the very reason it is an evaporate.
 
I don't plan switching brands ^_^ just find out about their new salt $70.00 for a 150G bucket is out of my range.
 
This salt reads very nice, but anyone considering a change, PLEASE do it VERY SLOWLY. Remember that we strive for stability, and at its core, stability in our system comes down to the salt mix we choose.

For me, changing salts is the biggest single change that one can make to your system, so it has to be done with caution.
Interested in your thoughts on this. Do you mind sharing a little information on how "drastic" changing salt can be? Im planning on switching the salt, but if the salt im using now is always fluctuating between batches but my tank is doing okay, i dont see a huge difference in a new salt with BETTER quality and more stability. I kinda understand taking it slowly maybe 1/2 the amount of W/C you do weekly then bump it up, kinda like with a new bulb?
Your thoughts and opinions are appreciated thanks!!!
-Sr5_Reef
 
Well, my experience in switching salts was not very good. A few years ago, I went from the OLD SeaChem reef salt to the Crystal Sea Bioassay salt, that was so well acclaimed by a study using urchin larave. The Crystal Sea salt had the best success at keeping those Larvae alive. So.... a lot of reefers started to use the CS salt. At the time when I switched I had a 135 gallon tank, and started slowly, with 10 and 15 gallon changes. After a couple of changes, I did a larger one, I think 25 gallons, it went down hill from there. I had corals start to receded from the base up, especially stylophora. Now, at the time it didn't even occur to me that changing to a better salt would have caused the issue, so I started doing MORE water changes, with my new BETTER salt. It wasn't until others started posting the same problems I had, that we started piecing it all together...

Anyway, long story short, several reefers lost lots of corals, all thinking that we switched to a "better" product.

After all the hype, and issues, I went to Instant Ocean, as a safe salt. IO has been around forever, and I figured it was a good choice. I have been using IO for the last 5-6 years now, and I won't switch again, even to RC.

Now, this is my experience with changing salts, others may never have seen an issue at all, but it is why I recommend sticking with what works, and not changing to the latest and greatest, because it is "better".
 
I changed salt brands twice once because I used this other brand and every thing
perked up when I tried the "new stuff" so I switched .. Every thing was fine for 5 or
6 years then do to a local store closing I was no longer able to get the salt. So I
switched back to the salt I was using before. Only small water changes but every
time I changed some water something died. By the time I had changed a 50 gallon bag of salt on a 180 gallon tank I had very few things left alive. And that is where I stand today. Restarted from scratch in a 55 gallon tank with the few remaining
animals 4 months ago. Change salt??? never happen agian!!!

JR,
 
Does everyone agree that switching salt is that big of a problem? Ive considered switching to Brightwell. I use regular TM salt now. How bout mixing a little Brightwell in with TM each time; a little more each time until all Brightwell? Like everyone else, im just lookin for the upper hand.
 
Does everyone agree that switching salt is that big of a problem? Ive considered switching to Brightwell. I use regular TM salt now. How bout mixing a little Brightwell in with TM each time; a little more each time until all Brightwell? Like everyone else, im just lookin for the upper hand.
That would work fine, I am slowly going from TMP to RC right now by mixing the salts slowly. As long as you are testing your water and dosing to keep all the levels consistent I do see how switching over is dangerous. If this was the case how would trading frags be so common. Most corals can take that change fairly easy. Some corals might lose some color, but if you keep all or levels accurate they will be fine.
 
If this was the case how would trading frags be so common. Most corals can take that change fairly easy. Some corals might lose some color, but if you keep all or levels accurate they will be fine.

Good argument there.
 
Not really. I would much rather lose a frag of ONE coral, then lose entire colonies in my tank.

For some reason, I can't quantify it, frags are more resilient to change then colonies are, check out the maricultured colonies that for some reason do poorly, versus the success of frags.
 
Ok try this on for size because it can happen. Brand A uses a certian amount of a
particular chelator to hold Iodide (Iodide just as an example not the only thing that it could be) bio available for consumption by the reef animals. You use a test kit and it says your short so you start putting it in by the directions. Your test kit says ok you have enough but you could have enough in ther to kill a horse its just not available.
You get brand B salt (because Its better) When you change water brand B has a different amount or different kind of chelator and all of you non bio available Iodide becomes instantly available and you burn the coral right off the rock. You go what caused that huh must of been magic, no just chemistry. But if you took that coral out of the tank before the water change and sold it to someone else the animal would be fine. There's hundreds of horror stories on the internet about changing to a different brand of salt. I'm not saying that this is going to happen to you it probably won't but the potential is there just the same. The consensous around internet is to change all the water or most of it when changing brands of salt then the effect on the corals would be no worse than moving the coral to a different tank with a different brand of salt. I have personally experienced this and when it happens you will go all of my test say I'm completely safe all the levels are fine what's happening?? After a lot of research and talking to a few chemists and some other prominate people in the hobby we concluded that I would of been better off to change all the water in stead of little bit at a time. So trading frags is not the issue here, it's the chemical soup in the single tank thats getting the brand change that has the potential for dissaster mind you I said potential not that it will happen but that it can.. Normal disclaimer on this one! Your mileage may vary! If you got a few thousand dollars worth of frags and corals in your tank think twice about it, it could be an exspensive water change.

JR,
 
Results

We over here at World Wide Corals have been using the NeoMarine exculsivily for the past two months and have seen nothing but GREAT results. As the old saying goes the proof in in the pudding.

Here is information Mr. Chris Brighwell provided to us before we decided to make the switch over. I hope this information helps
Considerations for using NēoMarine

Instructions and Guidelines
Each 138.8 grams of NēoMarine will increase the specific gravity of 1 US-gallon of purified water to approximately 1.024 g/cm3. To obtain a higher or lower specific gravity when preparing water, divide the desired value by 1.024 and then multiply this number by the volume of water (in gallons) being prepared, then multiply this value by 138.8 to obtain the mass of salt required (in grams) to be added (example: if target SG is 1.021 in 5.0 gallons of water: 1.021 ÷ 1.024 = 0.998; 0.998 × 5.0 = 4.985; 4.985 × 138.8 g = 691.92 g, as opposed to 694.0 g required to increase SG in 5.0 gallons to 1.024 g/cm3). If not using an accurate scale to measure salt, dissolve approximately 4 oz., or half a cup, of salt mix in each gallon of purified water to obtain a target specific gravity between 1.021 – 1.024 g/cm3, and adjust as needed by adding more salt or water to increase/decrease specific gravity, respectively. It is strongly recommended that water purified via reverse osmosis and/or deionization be used for seawater preparation. Add the required amount of water and salt to a clean container such as a large plastic pail and mix it thoroughly with a submersible pump. Always use an accurate hydrometer or (preferably) refractometer to determine the specific gravity of prepared seawater. Ensure that the water temperature matches that of the established aquarium (use a submersible heater if necessary). Although the prepared water may be used immediately upon reaching the desired specific gravity and pH (and temperature), it is recommended that at least one hour (and preferably several hours) of mixing be allowed to pass before adding the water to an established aquarium; this extra time enables gas formed during the salt dissolution to escape, further stabilizing pH.
Water changes in all marine aquaria should be made weekly to help maintain the natural seawater ionic ratios. The addition of supplements (which add elements that are affected by both biological and chemical interactions (non-conservative elements), as well as others that are not affected by these processes (conservative elements) and therefore accumulate with time unless removed with water changes), the depletion of various non-conservative elements, loss of salt to the external environment through water spraying, interaction of various elements with organic matter in the aquarium, and removal of elements via chemical filtration all alter the ionic ratio of the water. Weekly water changes of at least 5% of the total volume of water in the system will help counter these processes and provide a more stable environment for ornamental marine organisms. Note that if an aquarium is established with an inexpensive synthetic salt blend lacking adequate concentrations of non-conservative elements, additional money must be spent on supplements to correct the deficiencies before any animals are introduced to the system; these supplements may contain conservative elements that further alter the ionic ratio of the water. In light of these facts, it can be said that purchasing an inexpensive salt blend saves no money in the long run and does not encourage the health of livestock.
Switching from your present salt mix to NēoMarine:Stability of water chemistry is one of the most important aspects of successfully maintaining a marine aquarium. Therefore, sudden changes in water chemistry, such as when making high-volume water changes with water that has different chemical characteristics (no matter how slight the differences are), can have significant negative impacts on the livestock; even if they appear to be healthy initially, they may very well be found in poor appearance or even deceased a few hours later. This is often the case when manufacturers alter their salt formulation (either by accident or design) without informing their customers; what would seem to be a routine water change with a salt that has been used for months or even years can result in disaster.
It is imperative when changing from your current brand or formula of salt to a new one that the transition be gradual. We strongly recommend that the maximum water changed when switching to a new salt mix not exceed 5% of the total system volume (taking the water in sumps and displacement of water due to rock and bottom substrate into account) per 7-day period. This maintains relative stability in the water chemistry and has a much lower impact on aquarium inhabitants than does changing larger volumes. While it may take 5 – 6 months to completely switch over to a new formula (when doing a weekly 5% water change; water changes with less frequency will increase the time to complete transition accordingly), this should not be viewed as a nuisance, but rather as insurance that the livestock will make the transition smoothly and without illness or death. Considering the degree of care that goes into maintaining most marine aquaria, this method of careful transition is well worth the effort.
If you have recently changed from another brand of marine aquarium salt to this one, we would love to see “before and after†photos of the system after it has been established. Contact us for details on photo submission, and a chance to have your photos featured on our website.
Product Information
As you have read on the outside of this container of NēoMarine, we make the claim that it is so close in composition to natural seawater that marine organisms cannot tell the difference. How can we make this claim if the product does not provide every element present in natural seawater?
The answers are not as complicated as one might think, and may be addressed in three separate but very important aspects: 1.) the nature of the elements present; 2.) their concentrations with respect to average natural seawater parameters; 3.) the quality of ingredients utilized and the means in which the salt is produced. These points are addressed individually below.
First, all major elements are present in NēoMarine, however only minor and trace elements known to undergo biological and/or chemical interactions (e.g. depletion) in natural seawater are included. What this means is that there is a specific change (decrease) in the concentration profile of the element measured in the surface waters where life is concentrated; such elements are believed to interact with marine life and/or with other substances present in the water, and these elements are considered to exhibit “non-conservative†behavior. Elements that do not exhibit these characteristics do not apparently interact with marine life or these other substances (at least as far as current analytical methods can discern); they are not likely necessary for the continued health or existence of marine organisms. It follows that these elements are not required for success with a marine aquarium; in fact, if added they would gradually accumulate with time. Because of this, they may be omitted from the salt mix and the savings in raw materials and production procedures passed on to the aquarist.

 
Continued.....
Second, the comparison table on the outside of this package indicates that, when mixed to a specific gravity of 1.024 g/cm3, the concentrations of elements present are extraordinarily close to those observed in natural seawater; in fact, with only one exception (chloride), all major, minor, and trace elements present are in the proportions to one another that they are in natural seawater. The natural seawater concentrations of elements listed are taken from current data compiled by oceanographers, and the formula is adjusted as analytical methods are improved and new data becomes available. These changes are so minute that they will not noticeably alter the performance of the salt
or the appearance of aquarium inhabitants; we simply want the concentrations of elements present to remain as close to those found in natural seawater as possible.
Third, as with all Brightwell Aquatics water care products, we use the very highest purity ingredients available, period. This means that the majority of individual ingredients in NēoMarine are of USP or ACS grade, the highest levels of purity in existence. We do not cut any corners when it comes to what goes into our products. Additionally, we manufacture our salt mix on-site under very strict environmental conditions, ensuring the maximum degree of quality and accuracy to our formulation, and every container of NēoMarine is lot numbered for quality control.
This formula has undergone extensive testing and has produced very impressive results. Livestock from every common family of ornamental marine organisms has been maintained in water prepared with this formula without incident, many of them reproducing freely when they had not done so in aquaria maintained with other salt brands.
If you have purchased this package, used a portion of it, and find that the salt falls short of your expectations, please do not hesitate to contact us. We want you to use this salt and be 100% satisfied with it. We are confident that NēoMarine Salt Mix is the best such product on the market because we have formulated it to contain everything needed by marine life in precise natural seawater concentrations, and because we have paid such close attention to all pertinent details of purity and manufacturing. We thank you for choosing Brightwell Aquatics as your supplier of marine aquarium salt, and wish you the best of success with your aquaria.

A Brief Discussion of Specific Gravity (Density) and Salinity
Specific gravity is a measurement of density, and the relationship that it has with salinity is dependant upon water temperature. Oceanographers generally agree that the average salinity of the world’s oceans is ~35.0‰, however the salinity of water in some areas may be considerably higher. This is largely a result of the balance between evaporation and influx of freshwater in specific areas and/or bodies of water; the higher the rate of evaporation and/or the lower the relative volume of freshwater influx, the higher the average salinity tends to be. The Red Sea is a prime example of this: essentially surrounded by desert and with very little exchange of water between itself and neighboring water bodies, the average salinity tends to be quite high relative to that of other tropical marine environments; areas of the Red Sea may exceed 40‰ at times. For the most part, however, salinity in tropical areas tends to fall between 35 – 37‰, and this is a sensible range to maintain within marine aquaria.
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

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  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

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  • No.

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  • Other (please explain).

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