Brown Jelly Disease on Sandbed

Miami Reef

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I think this all started when my DI resin got expired and over 100tds was used as my top off.

I’m wondering what organism this is?

 
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It looks like it could be dinoflagellates. Does it improve after the lights go off?
 
It looks like it could be dinoflagellates. Does it improve after the lights go off?
I’ll have to check back.

You know what I did? I sold my UV sterilizer last week! Is this why? I clearly have Dino’s on my glass.

So…do Dino’s go away on its own?
 
What are your nutrient levels at? If you have 0 nitrate or phosphate, that can be the catalyst for a dino breakout.

A UV sterilizer can definitely help. I believe dinos have free swimming stage at night which is why your tank will look better in the mornings when the lights first turn on.
 
What are your nutrient levels at? If you have 0 nitrate or phosphate, that can be the catalyst for a dino breakout.

A UV sterilizer can definitely help. I believe dinos have free swimming stage at night which is why your tank will look better in the mornings when the lights first turn on.
My phosphates used to be 0 but they are at 0.07 last time I checked with Hannah and Red Sea.
 
How about nitrate? Do you have coral in this tank?
I do have corals. Mainly LPS and SPS.

I haven’t checked my nitrates in a while, but I overfed the tank with frozen food, pellets, and reef roids. I highly doubt nitrates are at 0.
 
It is flagellates (not quite yet Dino) and should first be siphoned and then treated .
Prepare by starting with a water change and blow this stuff loose with a turkey baster and siphon up loose particles.
Turn lights off (at least white and run blue at 10-15%) for 5 days and at night dose 1ml of hydrogen peroxide per 10 gallons for all 5 nights. If you dont have light dependent coral- turn all lights off.
During the day dose 1ml of liquid bacteria (such as bacter 7) per 10 gallons.

Clean filters daily and DO NOT FEED CORAL FOODS OR ADD NOPOX as it is food for dinos.
Day 5,, you can start with blue lights - ramping up and work your white lights up slowly.

Dinoflagellates are protists organisms -those that do not fit within the three natural kingdoms: animalia, plantae or fungus- with ability to move with rotating movements. All dinoflagellates have the common feature of having two flagella located at right angles allowing them to perform such rotational movement which makes them easily recognizable (although some species such as the genus symbiodinium they are virtually immobile).
There are about 2.400 species which have a highly variable size ranging from 20 and 300 µm in the most common ones and up to 2 mm in the case of species such as noctiluca. In the marine aquarium species are usual smaller as symbiodinium and Amphidinium, While some like ostreopsis are large and can be seen without a microscope (with good lighting and visual acuity).
The problem arises when conditions in the aquarium break the biological balance and some dinoflagellate species spread uncontrollably, smothering the rest of the aquarium inhabitants. If the dinoflagellate species in question has the ability to produce toxins (usual in ostreopsis, gambierdiscus and prorocentrum to name a few)
The problem often arises when we try to bring cleanliness it to the limit, in order to improve its appearance and color of corals.
They tend to occur suddenly when the aquarium water reaches an extraordinary cleanliness, in which most microorganisms perishes for lack of food. With no other organisms that can stop them, this type of dinoflagellate can multiply so fast that when we realize it's late and we will find an aquarium full of brown and ochre slime suffocating fish and invertebrates. These dinoflagellates possess chloroplasts enabling them to synthesize their own food even under a minimal amount of light. Some species can form cysts called pellicles which allow them to remain in the aquarium for months although we have completely sterilized or kept in complete darkness. Once the light or the right conditions come back, they will reappear and thus problems.
Most of these dinoflagellates have a very curious behavior, typical of pathogens and parasites. With the presence of light they secrete mucus which adhere to any surface, including algae, coral and fish. They spend hours synthesising food and extending vertically in search of the light source (if we turn off the pumps in the aquarium we can see brown filaments grow towards the surface). When the light source disappears and can no longer synthesize food, it begins to diminish to none.
 
Won’t Dino’s go away on it’s own with time?

I think this is what went wrong: I had 0 phosphates and immediately raised them high 0.07. I think it took my tank out of balance and caused this.

I never really delt with algae problems. My honest thought process is that these Dino’s will go away on it’s own?

I don’t have the patience to siphon out sand in a large tank. I also don’t believe in the chemical additives like vibrant - they don’t really do anything but add a temporary solution.
 
I checked at night when lights were off and the Dino’s had no difference. I don’t think I have the type that free swims at night.
 
For dino's @vetteguy53081 method above has worked for a lot of people including me and he has way more experience and knowledge than I do.

But... I'm wondering if it's not just diatoms. If you ended up with silica in the water after loosing your DI risen it could cause them to flare up.

I'd want to tell you to fix your DI situation and do some water changes, but with dino as a possibility that would be bad.
I can't find it but I recall a test using a cup to determine if it was dino or not. But a microscope is by far the best way.

The test involved putting some of it in a cup and stirring it till it broke apart. If it clumps back together it's supposed to be dino.

I hope that's helpful.
 
I just tested my phosphates with Hannah and it’s 0.02ppm. And this tester tends to shoot higher than what it really is.

I set up my auto feeder today to feed 4x a day. I’ll update back.

My fish should be back into the tank by next week. I’m positive it will get under control.
 
Won’t Dino’s go away on it’s own with time?

I think this is what went wrong: I had 0 phosphates and immediately raised them high 0.07. I think it took my tank out of balance and caused this.

I never really delt with algae problems. My honest thought process is that these Dino’s will go away on it’s own?

I don’t have the patience to siphon out sand in a large tank. I also don’t believe in the chemical additives like vibrant - they don’t really do anything but add a temporary solution.
They will not go away on their own as they feed off light and coral foods and organisms are fuel for their survival why the addition of liquid bacteria
 
They will not go away on their own as they feed off light and coral foods and organisms are fuel for their survival why the addition of liquid bacteria
I think they will go away on it’s own because other organisms will outcompete now that my nutrients aren’t bottomed out anymore.

I understand the purpose of a liquid bacteria like vibrant, but my tank shouldn’t be lacking in nitrifying bacteria as it’s been running for months.

Edit: I think I understand: I added dry sand to my tank about a month ago. Maybe it didn’t develop bacteria sooner than the Dinos.

I am not planning on doing anything other than maintaining my nutrients at phosphates at 0.10ppm and nitrates 5-10ppm. With time it should go away on it’s own.
 
I think they will go away on it’s own because other organisms will outcompete now that my nutrients aren’t bottomed out anymore.

I understand the purpose of a liquid bacteria like vibrant, but my tank shouldn’t be lacking in nitrifying bacteria as it’s been running for months.

Edit: I think I understand: I added dry sand to my tank about a month ago. Maybe it didn’t develop bacteria sooner than the Dinos.

I am not planning on doing anything other than maintaining my nutrients at phosphates at 0.10ppm and nitrates 5-10ppm. With time it should go away on it’s own.
If youre willing to risk toxins- Its your tank.
The problem arises when conditions in the aquarium break the biological balance and some dinoflagellate species spread uncontrollably, smothering the rest of the aquarium inhabitants. If the dinoflagellate species in question has the ability to produce toxins (usual in ostreopsis, gambierdiscus and prorocentrum to name a few)
The problem often arises when we try to bring cleanliness it to the limit, in order to improve its appearance and color of corals.
They tend to occur suddenly when the aquarium water reaches an extraordinary cleanliness, in which most microorganisms perishes for lack of food. With no other organisms that can stop them, this type of dinoflagellate can multiply so fast that when we realize it's late and we will find an aquarium full of brown and ochre slime suffocating fish and invertebrates. These dinoflagellates possess chloroplasts enabling them to synthesize their own food even under a minimal amount of light. Some species can form cysts called pellicles which allow them to remain in the aquarium for months although we have completely sterilized or kept in complete darkness. Once the light or the right conditions come back, they will reappear and thus problems.
Most of these dinoflagellates have a very curious behavior, typical of pathogens and parasites. With the presence of light they secrete mucus which adhere to any surface, including algae, coral and fish. They spend hours synthesising food and extending vertically in search of the light source (if we turn off the pumps in the aquarium we can see brown filaments grow towards the surface). When the light source disappears and can no longer synthesize food, it begins to diminish to none.
 
If youre willing to risk toxins- Its your tank.
The problem arises when conditions in the aquarium break the biological balance and some dinoflagellate species spread uncontrollably, smothering the rest of the aquarium inhabitants. If the dinoflagellate species in question has the ability to produce toxins (usual in ostreopsis, gambierdiscus and prorocentrum to name a few)
The problem often arises when we try to bring cleanliness it to the limit, in order to improve its appearance and color of corals.
They tend to occur suddenly when the aquarium water reaches an extraordinary cleanliness, in which most microorganisms perishes for lack of food. With no other organisms that can stop them, this type of dinoflagellate can multiply so fast that when we realize it's late and we will find an aquarium full of brown and ochre slime suffocating fish and invertebrates. These dinoflagellates possess chloroplasts enabling them to synthesize their own food even under a minimal amount of light. Some species can form cysts called pellicles which allow them to remain in the aquarium for months although we have completely sterilized or kept in complete darkness. Once the light or the right conditions come back, they will reappear and thus problems.
Most of these dinoflagellates have a very curious behavior, typical of pathogens and parasites. With the presence of light they secrete mucus which adhere to any surface, including algae, coral and fish. They spend hours synthesising food and extending vertically in search of the light source (if we turn off the pumps in the aquarium we can see brown filaments grow towards the surface). When the light source disappears and can no longer synthesize food, it begins to diminish to none.
Sorry. I didn’t realize Dino’s were toxic. Now I understand why people are desperate to get rid of them.

Ok. Can I use a product like vibrant instead of fritz? it’s both bacteria, but vibrant says it literally consumes dinos?
 
I have some now, I blow off the rocks before lights out and am dosing Hydrogen peroxide and have ozone and UV.
Slimy muck is cleaned from the sock once every two days.
They are controllable right now, but they are still pretty annoying. I might start dosing bacteria too.

My Phosphate is low (less than .1), but Nitrites have been 20's to 30. Sea lettuce is on it's way for the fuge and Im reducing the photo period.
 
Sorry. I didn’t realize Dino’s were toxic. Now I understand why people are desperate to get rid of them.

Ok. Can I use a product like vibrant instead of fritz? it’s both bacteria, but vibrant says it literally consumes dinos?
Vibrant won’t do much with it
The purpose of liquid bacteria is not related to the bacterial base you have in your tank but rather digestion organisms at a faster rate why only recommended up to 10 days on a daily basis
 

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