BRS RO/DI question

[theMeat]

Yup, most switches have a 20 psi cut off and on rate, so 70-50 sounds right.
Some of your fixtures, especially toilets, won’t appreciate pressure above 80 so i’d say stop at 70-75 tops.
Gets a lil complicated... but now that you’v adjusted up check how long it takes for pump to turn switch off. Meaning, turn off all plumbing in house. Turn on one hose/fixture whatever till pump goes on, then turn off that one hose/ fixture till pump goes off. If it takes less then a minute for pump to go off your pressure in tank is not right, or you need a bigger tank. Otherwise your pump is working too hard and will be short lived. Constant on/off for pump = not good
Your tank pressure should be 2-3 lbs psi lower than your setting. So if you have it set for 50-70, your tank should be pressurized to 47-48. If it is, and your pump cycles on/off in less than a minute to satisfy, either lower your pressure till it takes longer, or get a bigger tank.

Yes, 50 psi is good for a 75gpd membrane

 

[dwolson]

@theMeat presure tank reads 48psi but the switch goes on than off with just a few seconds in between. Somethings outa balance then?

 

[theMeat]

Most times you can see a condensation line on tank to see how much water is in tank, and how much is air/bladder. Or sometimes, if tank is fiberglass, a flashlight behind it can show level. If those fail shake tank a bit to get an idea of water level. Or tap on top, should sound hollow, tap on bottom, should sound full. Tanks typically are one third water at bottom, 2/3 air bladder on top. Whatcha got?

 

[dwolson]

@theMeat, I did the shake test. I’d say it is about a third full of water. That’s what it feels like.

 

[theMeat]

Ok cool. Now let’s back up a bit. To properly check tank psi it should be empty. Meaning not effected by pressure the water /well pump is providing.
Turn off power to well, open a drain valve which should be fitted somewhere to empty tank as good as you can. If there’s still a lil water in it no sweat. If no drain valve was provided then open any plumbing fixture in the house, more than one. And if one of them is lower than tank better, and the closer to the tank the fixtures are, the better. Adjust air pressure, then shut drain valve and turn back on well power. You may have to hold well switch lever in the contact position until it gets back into that 50-70 psi range for it to be automatic again.
Make sense?

 

[dwolson]

Thanks, I’ll give it a whirl.

 

[theMeat]

Cool, let me know

I’ll check back later

 

[dragon99]

Came for the question about RO, stayed for the lesson on well water. good info @theMeat

 

[theMeat]

Thanx. That’s what makes this site awesome. Sharing experience and knowledge makes us all better and heads the hobby in the right direction

FWIW, on well water there is no need to run carbon blocks. In place of them add more or finer particle filters pre membrane, and /or silicate buster and/or maxcap pre di resin