Bryopsis

[brandon429]

important bryopsis facts:

to dose the water with anything is to take a path of documented variability. **some have no choice and must, in the instance of truly giant aquaria, but most choose that while having the alternate options as well.

to dose the algae outside the tank with either the Kent, or peroxide, is a step up and still has variability.

to use the rasping method detailed here, doesn't have variability we can see. The only reason this keeper
below still has bryopsis if we read all details carefully is because they have a perceived loss of bacteria holding them back from simply being bryopsis free.

Recap

a third method exists for bryopsis control and its unbeatable. Her testing directly shows in this thread how rasped areas don't have the growback. the reason she didn't extrapolate that to the whole tank, and be fixed 3 weeks ago, is due to hobby-promoted notions that to work a tank kills bacteria.


http://www.nano-reef.com/topic/373326-beating-bryopsis-started-techm/


Bryopsis isn't actually the problem in most bryopsis tanks amazingly we are seeing. Its a mix of purposeful farming, water only actions, and procedural hindrances that don't have any basis. Bryopsis love these conditions and we didn't even mention phosphate.

 

[brandon429]

Summary of the procedure documented there:

Compare test rocks before any action using three modes of compare

The rasp method won

We began using rasp method and the tank was responding

We stopped rasping and went back to variability due to perceived but undocumented bacterial loss. We stopped the documented working mode but left great details behind, aquarists feel they have no other options than to grow this stuff on purpose.

for the very, very sparse few who do not want bryopsis subconsciously, you simply rasp it out and your test rocks will indicate how it works.

*I don't want to take apart my tank*

that's why most people dose water and hope, but a certain method exists too and I noticed it hadn't been linked here yet.

don't fear bacteria. what I do to my tank is insane, and documented well, to show that they are tougher than your corals, fish and anything you pay to keep alive. You can only kill them with meds or desiccation. Draining my whole reef for 20 mins in detailed threads doesn't recycle, nor desiccate...big tankers have even more safety due to their dilutions.

 

[brandon429]

the new 2016 standard in bryopsis control is the rasp and the test rock. The old technique is no testing, dose the whole tank and non targets set max thresholds. We do opposite where wins are requested.


Anyone with varying results is opting for partial actions on purpose or to avoid work (whereas initial rasp on rock one before the breakout was the cure, the catch-up work is now the cure for the purposeful farming we do, a pattern of nonaction is the sole cause not nutrients)


that's such a borderline cold/shocking way to view the husbandry of bryopsis tanks, aware and intended.

I think a shock is needed to our reefers, I buy frags from bryopsis tanks at my LFS and have not one spot in my tank, via the method.

the rasping method works for all anchor based invaders, and nothing beats it. nutrient controls are for prevention, not removal, of any algae but only if we want decisive wins- the majority want the algae and a months long hopeful wait.

The OP here should try a test rock only, to learn about their invader details. A small nano can be utilized to test any dilution runs for Kent so that no guess work is ever done in main tank. Water only work does help many, what I typed is just the get it done/hard work option.

 

[.AcroKiller.]

the new 2016 standard in bryopsis control is the rasp and the test rock. The old technique is no testing, dose the whole tank and non targets set max thresholds. We do opposite where wins are requested.


Anyone with varying results is opting for partial actions on purpose or to avoid work (whereas initial rasp on rock one before the breakout was the cure, the catch-up work is now the cure for the purposeful farming we do, a pattern of nonaction is the sole cause not nutrients)


that's such a borderline cold/shocking way to view the husbandry of bryopsis tanks, aware and intended.

I think a shock is needed to our reefers, I buy frags from bryopsis tanks at my LFS and have not one spot in my tank, via the method.

the rasping method works for all anchor based invaders, and nothing beats it. nutrient controls are for prevention, not removal, of any algae but only if we want decisive wins- the majority want the algae and a months long hopeful wait.

The OP here should try a test rock only, to learn about their invader details. A small nano can be utilized to test any dilution runs for Kent so that no guess work is ever done in main tank. Water only work does help many, what I typed is just the get it done/hard work option.

Now how this can be possible to accomplish when the Rock has multiple acropora colonies and not shocking the colonies or stressing them

 

[brandon429]

how is this guy draining his tank for six hours in the same condition (excellent question btw, we are talking about perceived holdbacks to a clear fix that is 100% applicable concern)

https://reefbuilders.com/2010/10/19/simon-garratts-intertidal-reef-months/

 

[brandon429]

that also brings up another good detail in my opinion, the test rock focus.

his risk in external treatment of peroxide (and going through arduous work detail/misting to keep corals wet/creativity required to get the ends) is not the immediate turnaround, that algae will turn white.

its the predictable and feared growback that made a mans use of time a waste of time in the next two mos. the test rock stops all that. it doesn't make him use a certain method it only illuminates options, currently he has one. spike the mag, using an unknown variable for success and hope the clean up crew doesn't die, and not any aspect has a known completion time, a known sustain time, its all guess.

but the test rock is formal. it tells, and the rest of the tank complies.

ps, it is very very easy for someone with a fifteen pound reef aquarium to recommend full tank scrapings and all this takedown. that's a typical Tuesday for a pico reef.

although hesitation has a higher price in large setups (the initial rasp literally saves your tank later on, those with light bryopsis take note) you guys get to keep fish as interesting side benefit of that risk in volume. I get no fish only calm corals and a pod lol

 

[Tanked_Life]

I am sorry I have a hard time following since I am at a DOD office and can not open the link on secure computers. This being said, you mentioned to take out a rock with byropsis and put it in say a QT system that is treated with the Kent formula so that I may see what levels I need to keep my main tank at and how long it will take to eradicate it so that there is no variable? Also what is the Rasp method?

 

[brandon429]

http://reef2reef.com/threads/reef2reef-pest-algae-challenge-thread-hydrogen-peroxide.187042/page-14

Yes the test rocks are just to gauge what works and what doesn't. Just the last four or five pages of that peroxide link is enough for rasping detail and examples

Not that removing rocks is required or easy to do, but it may be depending on invader and a small test rock simply does what works.

Is OK to dose the whole tank with something but as time goes on we moved away from that guesswork and into small rock modeling which simply defines what works before you begin a daunting hard work run to hopefully keep it at bay.

All that link was is a big sps tank he drains to simulate the tides. Just meaning there are creative ways of getting at your target outside of water if needed, but it's test rocks first for a week before the big attack.

Regarding dilution testing, putting a test rock in a ten gallon nano and running the Kent method to see if it works is just another mini model

I like to wait on the big attack until we see which method works on your invader, to me it's currently best bryopsis technique known.

 

[foxfacelo]

I'm in my third week of treating Bryopsis with Tech M. It seems to be working! Treating the rock with peroxide was not an option for me. Manual removal just spread it throughout the tank. I raised the Mg levels to between 1500 and 1600 and plan to leave it there for 3 weeks. The bryopsis was no longer visible after 2 weeks. Only time will tell if it will return!

 

[brandon429]

It's true water dosing suppresses it 75% of attempts agreed, water dosing of Kent is the number one used bryopsis method above any.


Interesting caveat

What I or anyone else terms bryopsis is likely right only 4% of the time, it's a catch all phrase like soda lol. If it's spiky I call it bry, works enough. Mainly it's the indicator of it being holdfast based vs this whispy airy stuff below that matters. Starting with a mg boost is ideal cuz it often works

If not, we got the clencher
http://reef2reef.com/threads/algae-outbreak.249581/

 

[Steve Maxwell]

I'm in my third week of treating Bryopsis with Tech M. It seems to be working! Treating the rock with peroxide was not an option for me. Manual removal just spread it throughout the tank. I raised the Mg levels to between 1500 and 1600 and plan to leave it there for 3 weeks. The bryopsis was no longer visible after 2 weeks. Only time will tell if it will return!

Congratz! I hope it works for me...I'm at day 4 of being at 1800 and haven't noticed any change; but my weeds are big. I think after work today I'm going to go in and do some manual pruning. I'm also thinking about getting a reactor from the BRS group sale this week and starting some GFO/Carbon and I have an algae scrubber I'm planning on getting hooked up. Also waiting on the delivery of 2 lettuce nudis today. Hopefully with all of the above I'll be able to get rid of it/keep it under control without having to lug out my big rock foundations and rasping away the shape of my rocks and risking destruction of coral/nems attached to said rocks.

 

[brandon429]

none of that happened in the example links just a heads up for readers. Its understandable about dosing the water, everyone will try that mode first. the linked threads show only wins, and work for having purposefully farmed it all. we show sps tanks, anemone tanks, all of them

I give a water dosing 75-85% chance of good work. this is primarily backup, but if needed the result is no collateral loss, rock looks the same per ex pics, and minus algae and a hard work weekend w lots of hand scrapes.

 

[Steve Maxwell]

I'm just hoping the GFO/Carbon reactor will help lower my phos (currently 0.06...gotta go see if I have anything in my chems that will lower this now) and the scrubber will hopefully help also. It'd be nice if the lettuce nudis were able to keep any regrowth in check for a bit, but from what I've seen on other posts is that they tend to disappear after a bit.

 

[Tanked_Life]

good read @brandon429 ! I too bought the Tech M before you linked this up here and So I will try the in tank method first. If that does not work I will definitely set up my QT and do the external method to try that before I start taking apart all of my rock work.

 

[nelson.jdautobody]

Tagging

 

[brandon429]

its so neat to see just what one little test rock does. for years we all spent time attacking whole tanks, see what happens, then react again.


with one mini model rock we already know the detritus dynamics fueling, the type of holdfast depth regrowth all up front. we know what type of secondary approaches are required, all this before doing anything to the tank, even if the tank has delicate corals that don't allow for removal.

The test rock phase is an important for nutrient assessment, causatives, as it is for learning the plant behavior. Its a big deal move. without it, every mode of algae control written about was more guess and await. the test rock phase where you place a test rock in a clean white SW bucket for two hours and bubble it simply lets us count the detritus specs on the bottom to see how much in/out and retention is going on. we factor that into predicted growbacks, all before big tank work.

Might allow for draining though, theres always a way. we want the tests done in air, not underwater, and tank drains are how I do mine I don't remove things usually


all this is relative to how fed up the keeper is or how much money is being encroached upon.

 

[.AcroKiller.]

The lettuce nudis are wiping out the bryopsis in my tank this is what the area that was covered in bryopsis looks like now. You can see how much bryopsis I had on page 1

 

[brandon429]

Bio raspers literally, nice!

 

[Steve Maxwell]

Update: It's been about 10 days since I've begun my Kent Tech M treatment (1800-1900) and it is working...got a couple bigger plants that are trying to hang on, but I'm going to go in and hand trim them and probably run the Tech M another week.

I also purchased a couple lettuce nudis - one of which promptly went to one of the corners of my tank and died. The other is still cruising around my rocks eating the bryopsis...not to an extent that helps tremendously, but hopefully it'll keep at it once I start trimming.

I'm also in a fallow period due to velvet so other algae are starting to grow since there's no fish to pick at it. I've started H2O2 at 1mL/10 gallons; hopefully it will help with they bryopsis as well (even though that seems to be a contested idea).

Next will be a large water change (while keeping the Tech M level elevated) and starting the media reactor I just purchased (GFO and carbon probably) and the algae scrubber I won at Christmas time from @Floyd R Turbo...he delivered promptly...I've just not had time to get to it yet

 

[.AcroKiller.]

Update: It's been about 10 days since I've begun my Kent Tech M treatment (1800-1900) and it is working...got a couple bigger plants that are trying to hang on, but I'm going to go in and hand trim them and probably run the Tech M another week.

I also purchased a couple lettuce nudis - one of which promptly went to one of the corners of my tank and died. The other is still cruising around my rocks eating the bryopsis...not to an extent that helps tremendously, but hopefully it'll keep at it once I start trimming.

I'm also in a fallow period due to velvet so other algae are starting to grow since there's no fish to pick at it. I've started H2O2 at 1mL/10 gallons; hopefully it will help with they bryopsis as well (even though that seems to be a contested idea).

Next will be a large water change (while keeping the Tech M level elevated) and starting the media reactor I just purchased (GFO and carbon probably) and the algae scrubber I won at Christmas time from @Floyd R Turbo...he delivered promptly...I've just not had time to get to it yet

Make sure when you get them in your tank next time to cut the flow down and place the where the bryopsis is at.