Bta just won’t settle !!

I’ll post them later I have it written down I posted it on here everyone said it was fine just my ph is low 7.6 …tanks 3 months old please don’t say I needed to wait 6 months for a anemone bc even in my old 90 gallon I had put a bta in with my clowns the first week and it survived np I don’t believe he’s moving bc he’s unhappy with flow or lighting I Think he just wants a big hole to stick his foot into that I just can’t give him in this smaller tank
7.6? thats really low!... are you sure thats correct? you should wait until the tank is ready and every tank is different, sometimes 3 is fine, but it usually takes longer. Ignorance doesn't make it better, im not telling you to command you, but trying to help you understand the issue.
 
You can see my nems placement in the pic above. The lowest ones are about 1/2 way down the tank. That's with my kessils running 12 hours a day, 4 hours of peak at 85% intensity with a ramp up and down. They are all directly under a light.
 
It’s unhappy with something in its environment (lighting & flow are most common issues). It doesn’t need a large crevice. Even huge anemones can attach in very small crevices as they have no skeletons. I’ve had a 14” haddoni decide to put its foot into a 1” little crevice.
 
7.6? thats really low!... are you sure thats correct? you should wait until the tank is ready and every tank is different, sometimes 3 is fine, but it usually takes longer. Ignorance doesn't make it better, im not telling you to command you, but trying to help you understand the issue.
Not sure why the ph is like that I increased surface flow hopefully it’ll help I don’t wanna use buffer it’s been like that since day 1 not sure why always reads 7.6 but corals seem to be fine the monti is starting to spread on to the rock work my hammers are opening up nicely I bet they would do better if I can get the ph up to atleast 8.0
 
It’s unhappy with something in its environment (lighting & flow are most common issues). It doesn’t need a large crevice. Even huge anemones can attach in very small crevices as they have no skeletons. I’ve had a 14” haddoni decide to put its foot into a 1” little crevice.
Interesting ! Didn’t know that!
 
Not sure why the ph is like that I increased surface flow hopefully it’ll help I don’t wanna use buffer it’s been like that since day 1 not sure why always reads 7.6 but corals seem to be fine the monti is starting to spread on to the rock work my hammers are opening up nicely I bet they would do better if I can get the ph up to atleast 8.0
that doesn't always mean higher PH.
 
Interesting ! Didn’t know that!
It’s a little unusual as haddoni typically bury in the sand/rock intersection. Idk why it decided on a day trip across the rocks, but it didn’t stay long.
 
Short video of the flow they have.
 

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I’ll post them later I have it written down I posted it on here everyone said it was fine just my ph is low 7.6 …tanks 3 months old please don’t say I needed to wait 6 months for a anemone bc even in my old 90 gallon I had put a bta in with my clowns the first week and it survived np I don’t believe he’s moving bc he’s unhappy with flow or lighting I Think he just wants a big hole to stick his foot into that I just can’t give him in this smaller tank
I think with what information you provided most people will assume it has something to do with the age of your tank. I hear more often than not that it's best to let the tank mature a bit before adding certain animals. There will always be exceptions to this rule as shown with your example. However, these exceptions don't necessarily mean that ignoring the common methods of successful husbandry is a good idea. Your BTA may live days to years in that tank, there are too many unknown variables like parameters/lighting/flow to give you a definitive answer.
 
It’s really frustrating when people post asking for help and then get all defensive when asked for more information or it’s suggested that the issue might be something other than what the OP initially thought to be the cause.

I can tell you, it’s not that it can’t find a place to stick it’s foot. If you’re not testing your water yourself, that’s an issue, depending on the lfs is unreliable and not recommended. IMO, if you want to keep corals and anemones, you need to get a proper understanding of reef chemistry and do the testing yourself. Your lighting is also an issue (you need to slowly increase the intensity), a single a360x on a tank with these dimensions (36g bowfront, correct?) is potentially inadequate, you may need to add a second. As people have mentioned anemone really do need mature aquariums with stable parameters. Your anemone is wandering because it is unhappy with the lighting, flow, or water chemistry, it is not because it can’t find somewhere to put its foot. Even a large anemone can fit its foot into a dime sized hole, but they don’t need a hole of crevice, they can be perfectly happy and stay put on the glass. You need to keep an open mind when trying to troubleshoot in this hobby and getting defensive when people, with centuries of collective knowledge/experience, suggest what the problem may be isn’t cool. People took the time to try to help you, help that you asked for, being flippant is uncalled for.
 
Well I guess he heard us talking about him look who decided to plant his foot first time in 3 weeks you can’t make this stuff up lol
 

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BTA's dont like to move and there is a reason they move - called Stress and other factors. Bubble Tip Anemone care requires a bit of work to keep these creatures healthy! In short, theyre not recommended for first-time aquarists. Having thorough knowledge about these animals is a must. The invertebrates are sensitive to water changes and require pristine conditions to stay in good shape. Failing to meet their needs can result in early death and damage to the tank environment as a whole. Yes, getting caught in a power head is a concern but rarely occurs.
The most important thing you’ll need to take care of before you bring your anemone home is perfecting the tank and water conditions. You should never place a Bubble Tip Anemone into a tank you just set up.
Take some time to get parameters just right and let the closed environment cycle for a few months. This ensures that conditions are stable and safe. Bubble Tip Anemones prefer warmer temperatures. Water should be on the alkali side as well. Monitor water conditions regularly to avoid any major changes. Ammonia and nitrate levels should be undetectable at all times using a good quakity test kit and Not API either.
Here are some water parameters to follow.
  • Water temperature: Between 77°F and 82°F (stay close to the middle of this range)
  • pH level: 8.1 to 8.4
  • Water hardness: 8 to 12 dKH
  • Specific gravity: 1.024 to 1.025
  • Nitrate < .5
When you first introduce the anemone to the tank, turn down any pumps. The flow should be minimal until the anemone gets settled in. Chances are, your new Bubble Tip Anemone will move around the tank until it finds a suitable spot to call home.
If it starts to move towards any coral, simply direct your water jets to the coral. This will discourage the anemone from anchoring near it. It will move to another area to attach.
Bubble Tip Anemone lighting is a very important aspect of their care. These creatures need a lot of light to thrive because they’re photosynthetic which means that they absorb light to produce food and growth. The anemone has zooxanthellae in its body, which are symbiotic microorganisms that they feed on. Without proper lighting, the anemone will expel the zooxanthellae and turn white. This process is called bleaching and often leads to death.
A moderate amount of flow is recommended. Many aquarists agree that too much flow will cause the anemone to stretch out and look stringy. Keeping things moderate will help avoid this from happening. Avoid directing your flow directly at the anemone. These creatures enjoy subtle movement at all times but too much direct flow hitting the anemone will force it to move.
Lastly- Feeding.
Bubble Tip Anemones feeding is one of the easiest parts of their care. These animals get food from a lot of different sources. As mentioned earlier, they are photosynthetic and use light to create food. They will also eat food off of the fish they host. These anemones enjoy small morsels of shrimp and squid. They will also accept many frozen foods. To feed the anemone, attach the food to a stick or large tweezers. Then, touch the anemone with it. The creature will use its tentacles to grab onto the food and consume it. twice a week feedings is ample.
 
+1 for knowing parameters and lighting, also have you made any changes in flow, lighting since adding the nem

also when are you testing for ph? my tank is At 8.2 just before lights out but 7.8 just before lights on. If your peak ph is 7.6 then this is likely in part some of the issue

while not recommended not knowing better I added the nem in my profile pic so where between 2 and 3 months and it’s doing great. So now that you have the nem it can be kept provided you can meet its needs it will just be more difficult in a new tank

I found nems demand stability/consistency, numbers don’t have to be perfect but stable. Lighting, Flow or Alk changes are 3 of the biggest things that upset bta’s

one Of my bta splits is attached to smooth rock and they have been known to attach to glass so no need to worry about it not having something to attach to.

Once we can help you to figure out what’s upsetting them and it is corrected it will find a spot it likes and stop moving.
 

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