Building a display refugium tank - need help

MichaelClark55

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Building a 20 Gal. display tank for plants that will serve as my refugium for the 75 gal reef tank. I am setting them up side by side. I am installing a T in the 1" return line from the sump to supply water to the refugium and the display tank. I realize I may need to upgrade to a larger pump. I have a 1" bulkhead in the back of the refugium that will drain down into the filter sock in the sump. I'll plumb that with schedule 80 1" PVC. Using a small Jabeo power head for flow.

My sump is only about 15 gallons of water and with the rather large skimmer, 2 filter socks and return pump there is not much room left for the small refug that I am currently running. (hince the idea of the display refugium) I also have media balls, filter mats and some live rock in there which I will transfer the rock to the display tank.

I'll use Gulf Coast live sand and live rock already seeded from the main display. I've been checking out liveplants.com for various plants. I'm trying to stick to mostly Gulf plants since I live on the Gulf Coast. However I would love some recommendations of what others have used. I am looking for the simplistic beauty of having live flowing plants as part of the reef tank display but the main reason is to have a living ecosystem that will help filter the reef tank. This seems to be so logical I'm a little surprised more folks aren't doing this. Maybe I am missing something?

Questions: I will use a 35 watt full spectrum light. Can I run this light at the same time as the reef tank lights? Since they are going to be side by side it doesn't seem logical that I could run them opposite as a normal sump fuge. I think I will black out the side of the fuge display to keep the full spectrum light out of the main dispay (somehow, haven't gotten that far)

Does the plumbing layout as described seem right? I got advice from Brad at BRS as to the correct fitttings. Thank you Brad.

Plant selection for best filtration other than the obvious Cheto?

What kind of creatures could I use in the fuge dispay? I was thinking of sea horses. Would that counter the filtering of nutrients by having to feed them? Star fish?

What else am I not thinking of? I'm at the point of plumbing everything.
 
Also seahorses usually like colder water, around 74? I think. Not sure how well that would work. Pipefish could do better. Be advised those are advanced fish though.

As for plants.. I would create a simple rock structure. And add many varieties and see what sticks
 
Also seahorses usually like colder water, around 74? I think. Not sure how well that would work. Pipefish could do better. Be advised those are advanced fish though.

As for plants.. I would create a simple rock structure. And add many varieties and see what sticks

Thanks for the advice on the sea horses. As I thought about it I really shouldn't add anything that needs feeding. The idea is nutrient control afterall. Maybe star fish would be a better option. I don't think the refug will drain too much into the sump during power outage since the bulkhead is about 4" from the top of the tank. Maybe 3 or 4 gallons. That will be something to determine though. When the return pump is off the sump level raises about 2". The additonal drainage from the refug might raise another inch. I still should be ok.
 
Building a 20 Gal. display tank for plants that will serve as my refugium for the 75 gal reef tank. I am setting them up side by side. I am installing a T in the 1" return line from the sump to supply water to the refugium and the display tank. I realize I may need to upgrade to a larger pump. I have a 1" bulkhead in the back of the refugium that will drain down into the filter sock in the sump. I'll plumb that with schedule 80 1" PVC. Using a small Jabeo power head for flow.

My sump is only about 15 gallons of water and with the rather large skimmer, 2 filter socks and return pump there is not much room left for the small refug that I am currently running. (hince the idea of the display refugium) I also have media balls, filter mats and some live rock in there which I will transfer the rock to the display tank.

I'll use Gulf Coast live sand and live rock already seeded from the main display. I've been checking out liveplants.com for various plants. I'm trying to stick to mostly Gulf plants since I live on the Gulf Coast. However I would love some recommendations of what others have used. I am looking for the simplistic beauty of having live flowing plants as part of the reef tank display but the main reason is to have a living ecosystem that will help filter the reef tank. This seems to be so logical I'm a little surprised more folks aren't doing this. Maybe I am missing something?

Questions: I will use a 35 watt full spectrum light. Can I run this light at the same time as the reef tank lights? Since they are going to be side by side it doesn't seem logical that I could run them opposite as a normal sump fuge. I think I will black out the side of the fuge display to keep the full spectrum light out of the main dispay (somehow, haven't gotten that far)

Does the plumbing layout as described seem right? I got advice from Brad at BRS as to the correct fitttings. Thank you Brad.

Plant selection for best filtration other than the obvious Cheto?

What kind of creatures could I use in the fuge dispay? I was thinking of sea horses. Would that counter the filtering of nutrients by having to feed them? Star fish?

What else am I not thinking of? I'm at the point of plumbing everything.


I saw your post on Patience & Persisance. After reading this first post, I identify with natural biofiltration as primary means of nutrient management and may have insight to offer.

First I have been skimmerless for 35 years and I don’t wear socks in my refugium. Both remove food for the reef. Because bacteria are the microbial overlords in our systems, I don’t strip out free swimming bacteria with a protein skimmer. The reason the natural reef shows no inorganic nutrients is because reef inhabitants like bacteria, algae & sponges are efficient consumers. Bacteria consume nutrients and move carbon up the food chain. Bacteria acting on plant & animal protein ( uneaten food ) produce amino acids to enhance coral colors and auto immune system.

Sea Horses are your worst choice. They eat and defacate a lot.

True plants in the marine enviroment are not an easy task for a reef tank. Reefkeepers that I know who do this are challenged to maintain. Flowers on true marine plants are hard to find in captive tanks. Deep sand beds > 8” along with garden soil in substrate are a standard.

I suggest macroalgae, seaweed as designated by academia.

Depends on starfish. Microstars are yes all the time.
 
Building a 20 Gal. display tank for plants that will serve as my refugium for the 75 gal reef tank. I am setting them up side by side. I am installing a T in the 1" return line from the sump to supply water to the refugium and the display tank. I realize I may need to upgrade to a larger pump. I have a 1" bulkhead in the back of the refugium that will drain down into the filter sock in the sump. I'll plumb that with schedule 80 1" PVC. Using a small Jabeo power head for flow.

My sump is only about 15 gallons of water and with the rather large skimmer, 2 filter socks and return pump there is not much room left for the small refug that I am currently running. (hince the idea of the display refugium) I also have media balls, filter mats and some live rock in there which I will transfer the rock to the display tank.

I'll use Gulf Coast live sand and live rock already seeded from the main display. I've been checking out liveplants.com for various plants. I'm trying to stick to mostly Gulf plants since I live on the Gulf Coast. However I would love some recommendations of what others have used. I am looking for the simplistic beauty of having live flowing plants as part of the reef tank display but the main reason is to have a living ecosystem that will help filter the reef tank. This seems to be so logical I'm a little surprised more folks aren't doing this. Maybe I am missing something?

Questions: I will use a 35 watt full spectrum light. Can I run this light at the same time as the reef tank lights? Since they are going to be side by side it doesn't seem logical that I could run them opposite as a normal sump fuge. I think I will black out the side of the fuge display to keep the full spectrum light out of the main dispay (somehow, haven't gotten that far)

Does the plumbing layout as described seem right? I got advice from Brad at BRS as to the correct fitttings. Thank you Brad.

Plant selection for best filtration other than the obvious Cheto?

What kind of creatures could I use in the fuge dispay? I was thinking of sea horses. Would that counter the filtering of nutrients by having to feed them? Star fish?

What else am I not thinking of? I'm at the point of plumbing everything.

Display refugium does not need high flow or intense light. Low energy display refugiums are gorgeous for viewing.

Nutrient management in a reef tank is a much more complex discussion than algae & flowers.
At my level of involvement in this hobby, I read research articles by hobbiest in academia. Check out Advanced Aquaria 6 part series on “coral nutrition” written by @Dana Riddle. Check out BRS TV Friday release two weeks ago. Randy also mentioned Dana Riddle articles.

Cheers.
 
Display refugium does not need high flow or intense light. Low energy display refugiums are gorgeous for viewing.

Nutrient management in a reef tank is a much more complex discussion than algae & flowers.
At my level of involvement in this hobby, I read research articles by hobbiest in academia. Check out Advanced Aquaria 6 part series on “coral nutrition” written by @Dana Riddle. Check out BRS TV Friday release two weeks ago. Randy also mentioned Dana Riddle articles.

Cheers.
Thanks, I will check out those. I have read a lot on nutrient export and some of Dana's articles. Very interesting topic and I am learning more and more every day. I started this refugium back in Sept. and it's the best thing I've ever done! I have some red macro in it but the bread & butter macro is proliferia that thrives and grows like mad. I took out the powerhead I had in there and it was obvious that helped. I have a small air pump running a filter and the movement from the return pump is all that is needed for flow. It does seem the less flow the better. I haven't had any nuisance algae in DT at all since this has been running.
 
You mentioned not having to feed anything but this is a fun idea. I saw on somebody else tank, they had a display refugium with a mantis shrimp in it. I thought it was pretty awesome and a great way to be able to keep one. Just a thought.
 
I saw your post on Patience & Persisance. After reading this first post, I identify with natural biofiltration as primary means of nutrient management and may have insight to offer.

First I have been skimmerless for 35 years and I don’t wear socks in my refugium. Both remove food for the reef. Because bacteria are the microbial overlords in our systems, I don’t strip out free swimming bacteria with a protein skimmer. The reason the natural reef shows no inorganic nutrients is because reef inhabitants like bacteria, algae & sponges are efficient consumers. Bacteria consume nutrients and move carbon up the food chain. Bacteria acting on plant & animal protein ( uneaten food ) produce amino acids to enhance coral colors and auto immune system.

Sea Horses are your worst choice. They eat and defacate a lot.

True plants in the marine enviroment are not an easy task for a reef tank. Reefkeepers that I know who do this are challenged to maintain. Flowers on true marine plants are hard to find in captive tanks. Deep sand beds > 8” along with garden soil in substrate are a standard.

I suggest macroalgae, seaweed as designated by academia.

Depends on starfish. Microstars are yes all the time.

Wow, your timing is on point regarding the socks and skimmer. I have been considering removing the socks. I am running 2 socks now in my sump and when I take them out and look through them there is always micro creatures stuck in there and got me thinking I am throwing away the best food for corals and fish!
I am going to stop running the socks for a while and see if it makes a difference.

As far as the skimmer goes I run it in a very low state. Do you think that I should also try taking it offline? Wow, that is scary! But I don't have a heavy bioload at the moment. 5 small fish, 3 big emerald crabs and 2 urchins.
 
You mentioned not having to feed anything but this is a fun idea. I saw on somebody else tank, they had a display refugium with a mantis shrimp in it. I thought it was pretty awesome and a great way to be able to keep one. Just a thought.
I did end up throwing a peppermint shrimp in because he was starting to peck at corals after he had rid the DT of some aptasia. He's been in there for a couple months or so and I give him a few pellets every now and then. I first bring him up by sticking my finger in until he comes up and grabs my finger then I feed him. That way I know all the food gets eaten. I'm sure there is plenty of bugs in there he munches on also. I also added a crab and a snail to make sure it stays balanced.
 
Building a 20 Gal. display tank for plants that will serve as my refugium for the 75 gal reef tank. I am setting them up side by side. I am installing a T in the 1" return line from the sump to supply water to the refugium and the display tank. I realize I may need to upgrade to a larger pump. I have a 1" bulkhead in the back of the refugium that will drain down into the filter sock in the sump. I'll plumb that with schedule 80 1" PVC. Using a small Jabeo power head for flow.

My sump is only about 15 gallons of water and with the rather large skimmer, 2 filter socks and return pump there is not much room left for the small refug that I am currently running. (hince the idea of the display refugium) I also have media balls, filter mats and some live rock in there which I will transfer the rock to the display tank.

I'll use Gulf Coast live sand and live rock already seeded from the main display. I've been checking out liveplants.com for various plants. I'm trying to stick to mostly Gulf plants since I live on the Gulf Coast. However I would love some recommendations of what others have used. I am looking for the simplistic beauty of having live flowing plants as part of the reef tank display but the main reason is to have a living ecosystem that will help filter the reef tank. This seems to be so logical I'm a little surprised more folks aren't doing this. Maybe I am missing something?

Questions: I will use a 35 watt full spectrum light. Can I run this light at the same time as the reef tank lights? Since they are going to be side by side it doesn't seem logical that I could run them opposite as a normal sump fuge. I think I will black out the side of the fuge display to keep the full spectrum light out of the main dispay (somehow, haven't gotten that far)

Does the plumbing layout as described seem right? I got advice from Brad at BRS as to the correct fitttings. Thank you Brad.

Plant selection for best filtration other than the obvious Cheto?

What kind of creatures could I use in the fuge dispay? I was thinking of sea horses. Would that counter the filtering of nutrients by having to feed them? Star fish?

What else am I not thinking of? I'm at the point of plumbing everything.
Go to algea barn. They have a great selection. Macroalgea is a great way to filter an aquarium. The macroalgea will strip trace minerals and they will have to be dosed to keep. Also if the macroalgea dies this will release all those trace ellements back into the water colum maybe even at toxic levels. Just a heads up. I waiting on replies to see if I can quote the posters. They are way above my pay grade on this stuff.
 
I did end up throwing a peppermint shrimp in because he was starting to peck at corals after he had rid the DT of some aptasia. He's been in there for a couple months or so and I give him a few pellets every now and then. I first bring him up by sticking my finger in until he comes up and grabs my finger then I feed him. That way I know all the food gets eaten. I'm sure there is plenty of bugs in there he munches on also. I also added a crab and a snail to make sure it stays balanced.
The uneaten scraps feed the little people. The little people feed the next level up. It’s a natural food chain that has perfected itself over 4 billion years.
 
Okay, I'm going to explain my thoughts on Chaeto and Macro algaes in general. It's a broad topic, and I hate talking about it, because the complexities are based around an individuals tank, their maintenence habits, their ability and willingness to maintain their macro algaes, and how many modern reefing methodologies grate against what is necessary to keep chaeto happy and thriving. @Katrina71 I will never forgive you for making me write this much lol

Chaeto can be fine, the problem with chaeto is modern methodology of reef keeping and the long term issues people can face, if they don't take a few small extra precautions necessary to keep a fuge happy and healthy. I don't like talking about this subject because it's long and complex, there's a lot of in's and outs, nuances, esoteric and tank-specific things which can go wrong, based upon the reef keeper themselves, their habits, their maintenance, and their understanding of the subject as it pertains to THEIR tank, THEIR habits, and THEIR work ethic.

So first and foremost, this is Ehsan Dashti, the owner of Triton -- Who created what we call the triton method, and sort of pioneered ICP testing as we know it. This is his 2017 speech at MACNA. Eshan Dashti: Modern Practical Reef keeping <--- LINK.

The fundamentals Trace elements and their critical importance. Then he transitions the talk to Macro Algaes, what they need, what they do, and how they work/grow/thrive. His talk specifically about the triton methodology and keeping a fuge happy and healthy starts around 18:45 in his talk. This talk is very, very important for people to watch, regardless of if you do or don't like chaeto, it's beneficial information to know about the metabolic processes happening within your aquarium.

So what am I saying in general -- Running a fuge can absolutely be fine. BUT, I typically like to make things simpler and boil it down to nutrients, and skip over the more esoteric things that people don't know of. It's because of all these reasons which I am starting to write out, that I typically do not recommend running a fuge for the person who isn't willing to put in a little work to maintain that fuge, or understand that chaeto itself has NEEDS, and that it's NEEDS detract from corals if not properly maintained.

Again -- the core of my argument isn't that a fuge is bad. It's that statistically, YOU will NOT put in the work to maintain your fuge. And eventually, your tank and corals can suffer. This can all be easily combated, if you put in a tiny fraction of effort, and more importantly, understand why all this is important information to know and apply to your tanks.

What does Macro algae need? -- On top of nutrients, it is wholly dependent upon metals, and other important trace elements. The metabolic processes within macro algae, like all life forms, are reliant upon trace elements. As time has gone on, I have seen more and more people have issues with chaeto because they aren't taking care of it. Nutrients alone, are not enough. Lighting alone, is not enough. The trace is critically important for chaeto, and all corals in your tank.

One of the main perks of Triton method -- Is that macro algaes (now will be referred to as just chaeto) will help polish your water of metals that build up. In the beginning stages of the video I posted above, Eshan is talking about the build up of undesirable elements that slowly creep up. This is one of the things chaeto is GREAT for. It eats metals like I eat cheesecake. This will prevent, or at least slow, the build up and deposit of unwanted heavy metals in your tank.

How do these metals get in my tank? -- They get in from everywhere. Watch the BRS videos of their new pharmaceutical grade elements. Many of the options contain traces of copper, aluminum, iron, and other unwanted elements. Again, chaeto is GREAT for this in general.

So why are we talking about Triton method anyways? -- Because the cornerstone of the triton method is utilizing chaeto or other macro algae to keep your tank clean of unwanted metals, as well as lowering nutrients (which is a whole 'nother thing I could droll on and on about).

Triton has two methods -- The standard "Triton method" based around utilizing chaeto as mentioned above, and the "Alternative Methods", which is lacking the elements necessary to keep chaeto growing and thriving, because you are using "Alternative Methods" instead of chaeto.

That's right. The people who pioneered ICP testing and champion the important of trace elements have two entirely different formulas based on if you are, or aren't using macro algaes. Because triton is KEENLY aware of what macro algaes need to thrive and function metabolically.

Why is it important to know that trace elements are important for macro? -- Because chaeto is extremely efficient. It's great at what it does! And the more you have, the more it needs. The cornerstone OF the Triton method is feeding your chaeto a well balanced diet of everything it needs to THRIVE. Because chaeto, and all macro algaes, will need their OWN supplementation in time.

So why do most people implement a fuge anyways? -- Most people implement a fuge to lower nutrients. It does have other benefits as well, but this is the main reason most people gravitate towards a fuge. So going off of the triton method, their main focus is to keep the chaeto happy, by supplementing the elements it needs to continue it's metabolic processes of utilizing nutrients.

Why is this a problem with modern reef keeping again? -- Because people are being told to do water changes less, and less. They are told water changes are the least effective way to reduce nutrients (which is true) and that all it's really good for is replenishing trace, which is very rarely low anyways (this is also true).

So now you have a life form that is well known, and utilized, specifically for it's ability to strip water of nutrients, metals, and other important trace elements, absurdly quickly and efficiently. Trace elements which most people are replenishing at a lower, and lower rate as reefing as a hobby grows.

This leads to water chemistry imbalance, and issues with metabolic processes within the chaeto itself, then it will begin to impact corals through a tank starved of trace elements.

How can you spot when Chaeto is starved of elements? -- The first thing that typically happens is your chaeto stops lowering nitrates and phosphates. More than a few friends, and club members, have noticed that over time the more efficiently they grow their chaeto, the slower it begins to grow and the less visibly healthy it becomes. The first sign is usually an uptick in nutrients. The elements that allow the chaeto to work have been stripped of the water, which in turn makes it so that chaeto itself struggles to achieve it's primary function, lowering nutrients.

You will note some people say "Chaeto stops working", you'll notice this slightly more often from people who run high level fuge lighting, or ARID reactors for their chaeto. Especially if, like most people, they are doing less, and less replenishment of trace minerals and elements.

So the chaeto stops taking up nutrients.. Weren't you just saying that's good?! -- In this specific case. No. Because it's stopped taking up nutrients due to the lacking trace elements that are required to sustain a healthy reef tank. Going back to ICP testing, the whole idea of ICP testing is to have an in depth understanding of what is in your water, and to have good sustainable levels of all the major and minor trace elements your corals need to thrive.

Lacking trace elements is not ideal for coral growth, health, or coloration. As time goes on, and as your chaeto continues to strip the water bare, corals will suffer more and more. In my personal experience (as someone who DOES NOT do water changes often) I witnessed chaeto absolutely devastate my SPS. My coral became more pale, more fragile, and less healthy. Growth slowed. Consumption of the big 3 (Alk, Cal, Mag) had also slowed which I noticed in time to prevent a large spike which may have caused coral death.

Some people don't have any of these problems with chaeto. Why are they fine while others are not? -- Typically this is because either directly, or indirectly, they are doing whats necessary to sustain their chaeto. This could be a well maintained water change schedule (replenishment of trace), it could be dosing of trace elements deliberately, it could be due to a two part which has a more balanced trace element system (Triton, ATI Essentials, ESV B-Ionic). It may also be due to a calcium reactor, which doses the elements and trace required for coral health and coincidentally, helps chaeto a bit as well.

Or in some cases (more and more as time goes on), people are realizing chaeto is a living thing that has it's own requirements. For this there is Triton method, Brightwell Aquatics ChaetoGro <--- LINK

So who have you known who personally had issues with this? -- A few people. Here are a few stories.

__________________________________________________________________

E's tank -- E had a HUGE ball of chaeto in his sump. 22x16". This was in a 120 ish gallon system. That's a metric ton of chaeto for such a small tank. He originally had it lit by a single basic light, nothing too fancy for it. He also didn't do water changes at all, nor did he dose trace.

E's Problems -- E had high nutrients, and couldn't get them to lower no matter what he did. His chaeto was well light and growing, but absolutely refused to lower his nutrients, especially phosphates. They just kept climbing and climbing, no matter what he did. Finally after convincing him to do a water change because "Something may be lacking in his water chemistry" he had a jolt of success. He then assumed the lowering of the phosphates and nitrates was due to a small 20 gallon water change. he then decided to upgrade to a second fuge light. This second light had no impact.

Then he decided, it was time to invest in a real fuge light. He threw out $300 on a kessil H380. It had no impact... He then began wondering if perhaps, he needed TWO kessil H380.

After a lot of talking I convinced him to ditch the chaeto, last I heard from mutual friends his tank has improved, and he didn't waste another $300 on a kessil that wouldn't do anything for him.



S's Tank -- S has a phenominal and absolutely beautiful reef. A custom 400 gallon penninsula, and most people I've known that saw it for the first time literally have their jaw drop. It's a thing of beauty, especially the filtration room.

S's Problem -- He ran a very nice, very large ARID reactor. Although as far as I know, he was at the time, not doing anything for his chaeto, nor was he doing many water changes. This is VERY typically of people with large tanks, as water changes are pretty much the worst way to accomplish any goal you may have for your tank and water chemistry. After about a year, he noticed his nutrients began to tick upwards. And came to the conclusion that "Chaeto stops working". He pulled it, and hasn't had any issues since. Last we spoke about chaeto, he became a non-believer, because his methodology of reefing conflicted with what chaeto needs to grow and sustain a happy reef.



Steve's tank -- Steve has a MASSIVE outdoor frag tank. 1300 gallons. 20x4 FEET. It's no joke, and he is exceptionally knowledgeable on most all subjects in the hobby.

What Steve Taught me -- He successfully runs a huge ARID reactor, and openly loves chaeto (which again, is totally fine in and of itself!) At this point I had been piecing together my anti-chaeto rheteric, and being such a deep pool of knowledge I asked him why he felt our mutual friend, S, had come to the conclusion "Chaeto stops working". Without skipping a beat he walked to his cubbord and pulled out a few bottles of vitamins. He doses Iron, Manganese, Molybdenum, and Cobalt to keep his chaeto happy. This is not the full suite of things in say, the Triton method, AquaVitro Fuel, or Brightwell Aquatics ChaetoGro, but the most important things which were low in calcium reactor media.

So talking with Steve taught me for sure, why the Triton method exists. Why chaetogro exists. Why S had issues with his ARID reactor, and why E had issues with his chaeto.. All while Steven didn't. He took care of his chaeto. It has needs.



Charles's Tank -- Charles has a beautiful 240 gallon deep tank, he does no water changes, and had quite a lot of chaeto.

Charles' Problem -- His SPS were starved of nutrients, and had become slightly stunted and pale due to lack of trace elements. At this point, I personally had begun to seriously understand the underlying issues with chaeto that is NOT taken care of. I suggested he look into dosing some ChaetoGro to make up for what may be lacking. He said he had AquaVitro Fuel and would give that a shot first. Upon dosing some fuel, everything in his tank began to wake up. Color improved, growth improved, and everything was on the up and up. he and a mutual friend both told me his tank had started flourishing when just a week ago it had been stagnant.

Charles still didn't do water changes (busy, large tank), and chaeto once again started removing a little too much from his water and he has since decided to pull it. In his system, with his time restraints, and his methodology, chaeto was grating against his preferred style of reefing.

I told Charles what would likely be happening chemically and metabolically within his tank. This is the order of operations for a tank that has neglected chaeto;

- Nutrients begin to spike
- Chaeto becomes less visibly healthy, and growth slows, even while nutrients are present
- Corals begin to pale
- The Big 3 begin to rise, as corals are unable to properly utilize Alk, Cal, and Mag due to missing trace elements
- Corals begin to get stunted, and look less healthy
- Corals become progressively sensitive, and less hardy
- Coral loss may occur, "for no reason"



Rakies Tank -- Rakie had, at the time, a 29 gallon biocube the first time he learned his lesson. Then he tried it again briefly in his current 45g cube. Both times he learned from his mistake. Both times everything was humming along perfectly until adding in chaeto. This is also when he learned the importance of trace element replenishment (Which is just about the only thing water changes are semi decent for).

Rakies Problem -- Rakie didn't do water changes (STILL DON'T) because they are essentially the worst way to achieve almost anything in the hobby. Need to scrub your water? Carbon. Need to remove detritus? Filter sock and turkey baster for the rock/sand. Need to lower nutrients? LIGHT carbon dosing, maybe a little bacteria. Because of this, chaeto stripped his water clean of everything corals needed to thrive.

Compared to the size of my biocube, an AquaClear 110 holds a LOT of chaeto. And mine was stuffed, and thriving.. For awhile, at least.

Rakies other problem was simple -- He was told chaeto was the most perfect thing ever, and it would make everything magical, while requiring absolutely nothing in return. And he was dumb enough to not see the bigger picture. He started believing due to process of elimination that things started going south for him after adding chaeto. he had no problems before, it was the only change he had made in 6 months, then suddenly lots of issues (Specifically the order of operations I had told Charles, above me).



There are several other people as well. But this gives you a round idea of my personal experience with others. They all had nutrients in their system so their corals weren't starved of nutrients specifically, it was the other missing elements causing issue.

__________________________________________________________________


So basically, chaeto is the devil and you hate it -- Absolutely not. Although I have come to the understanding that chaeto itself has requirements that MUST be met in order for it to not only achieve it's intended purpose, but to PROTECT your corals from the efficient algae scrubbing your water sterile. Otherwise, Triton method not only wouldn't exist, but there wouldn't be a version specifically tailor made for chaeto, and one made with different elements and quantities of elements for systems that DONT run chaeto.

So what can I do to solve this before it becomes an issues? -- Water changes. Dose elements for your chaeto. Just plain understand the 'cause and effect of metabolic processes within your aquarium, or at least gain some insight into what makes chaeto work, and what chaeto does for a system BESIDES eat up nutrients. There is a big picture in this topic, and as of when I started writing this post, not a single person made note of it. And that, in and of itself, is the problem.

So then, why do you boil it all down to "nutrients" if all this other stuff is important? -- Because it's a ton of information, and it requires more thought than most people are willing to give algae. And it opens up into a bigger and bigger picture, about essential trace elements, their place in the hobby, their importance for coral health, the way it may heavily impact your reef. it also takes a lot of information that is "tried and true", and turns it on it's head. You know how hard it is to convince people there's more than one way to skin a cat? (who skins cats??). it's almost impossible. Especially in this hobby, where a contradictory thought is more than just a different point of view, it's often taken as a personal insult against one's experience, tank, knowledge, and manhood.

This is an annoyingly impossible conversation to have. An entire line of essential elements was created by a company who specializes in the most in-depth testing of tank trace elements, specifically to keep a stupid algae alive, and thriving, and making sure there is enough trace elements so that the rest of the corals have enough to go around. Because the algae is a trace element pig. and if not properly taken care of, it CAN cause an issue.

Take ALL OF THAT, and coupled with the fact that the methodology behind reef keeping is changing in a way that contradicts exactly what this piggy algae requires makes what was no issue 10-20 years ago a potential issue today, for a growing majority of people. You have BRS telling you how awesome sauce chaeto is, and how Ryan "Can't understand how anybody would go without it", while simultaneously telling you water changes aren't really great for anything (albeit this is true, but can pose a problem with chaeto heavy tanks).

So basically i bypass what nobody wants to talk about, and point out what some people are willing to talk about. Lacking nutrients, which does also effect coral health, growth, and color.


Shout out to @Katrina71, who I totally hate for making me write all this!

If you have a big ball of chaeto (or other macro algae) and it "melts" then these heavy metals and other contaminants algae absorbs will get released back into the tank at potentially toxic levels. I tell people that if it stops growing to pull all but a small amount to help minimize this impact. I'm convinced this has caused more than one tank to be wiped, by either purposely killing nuisance algae or not properly maintaining a refugium
 
[As far as the skimmer goes I run it in a very low state. Do you think that I should also try taking it offline? Wow, that is scary! But I don't have a heavy bioload at the moment. 5 small fish, 3 big emerald crabs and 2 urchins.]

Understand this, nutrients and biofiltration are dealt with in nature differently than captive reefs normally operate. That does not mean that science in a tank does not apply. I operate reef tanks using the best that nature offers, then designed around my captive ecosystem. Because I have great demands on my time and many tanks to maintain, I rely on natural biofiltration combining bacteria, algae & sponges to recycle nutrients into desirable biomass like corals & fish. In isolated situations, I have gone 5 years with zero water change. The Germans did not invent The Triton Method, I have been using algae filtration for 35 years. The Chinese at probably 5000 years.

In my experience, a protein skimmer is always good for gas exchange. Because I design systems with robust surface circulation to promote gas exchange and cascading water into sump, further increasing gas exchange. I see no need of protein skimmer. Keep it available as insurance for any upset. By not stripping free swimming bacteria from the water column, the microbial loop is enhanced to transfer 60% of reef energy of carbon up thru the food chain.
 
@MichaelClark55

Because I embrace diversity and natural micro fana and fana, I prefer to order my seaweed without it being disinfected.

Russ Kronwetter is diver owner of GulfCoast EcoSystems. A man and his dog are the company. Russ has 40 years of hands on in the lagoons & reefs of Florida/CaribSea he is knowledgeable and pragmatic with his wisdom. I highly recommend that you study in great detail the wisdom & knowledge thatRuss brings into the conversation using this ebook as the resource it was meant to be.

https://www.marineplantbook.com/

Since I have been on this hobby website, I have found a wealth of academic expertise with more degrees than a thermometer ( thank you @Paul B ). A down under friend, @Scrubber_steve, combines academia and hands on because he lives it. If you have questions on reef husbandry, I would not hesitate to seek his advice.

Happy reefing,
A Cajun Aggie
 
For now, this s my 20G high display refugium at 2 months old. I almost lost it to Cynobacteria. Two weeks ago, I did back to back ChemiClean treatment on three tanks at the same time: 25/year Mature reverse flow undergravel filter at 100G, 10 year mature grow out tank at 55G and this 20G high a5 2 months old. This tank is on track to be set up in local high school aquatic science class where I establisha mentor program from a sustainable mariculture facility. I just did talk with AgriLife division of county agents office and I will be designated as a zero discharge mariculture facility. On site meetings are scheduled at my property. Development of State Guidelines & Regulations will be co-chaired by myself overseen by County Agent in conjunction with Texas A&M AgriLife resources. The County Agent & I will develope mentoring program and we will use high school students to help in writing state government SOP: Standard Operating Procedures for Mariculture in Texas. I am excited to have this vision encouraged by a resource as Texas A&M specialist at university level helping mentor youth in high school. They are our leaders. To invest in people is to invest in the future.

It’s rewarding to be a Texacan in Austin, Texas. It’s fun to be a Cajun Aggie in Austin, Texas.

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@MichaelClark55

Because I embrace diversity and natural micro fana and fana, I prefer to order my seaweed without it being disinfected.

Russ Kronwetter is diver owner of GulfCoast EcoSystems. A man and his dog are the company. Russ has 40 years of hands on in the lagoons & reefs of Florida/CaribSea he is knowledgeable and pragmatic with his wisdom. I highly recommend that you study in great detail the wisdom & knowledge thatRuss brings into the conversation using this ebook as the resource it was meant to be.

https://www.marineplantbook.com/

Since I have been on this hobby website, I have found a wealth of academic expertise with more degrees than a thermometer ( thank you @Paul B ). A down under friend, @Scrubber_steve, combines academia and hands on because he lives it. If you have questions on reef husbandry, I would not hesitate to seek his advice.

Happy reefing,
A Cajun Aggie

Right on with GCES, that's where I get my plants. I will check out Russ's book. Thanks and I have read all I can get my hands on from Paul B. His book is out of print. Do you know where I can get link or purchase?
 
[As far as the skimmer goes I run it in a very low state. Do you think that I should also try taking it offline? Wow, that is scary! But I don't have a heavy bioload at the moment. 5 small fish, 3 big emerald crabs and 2 urchins.]

Understand this, nutrients and biofiltration are dealt with in nature differently than captive reefs normally operate. That does not mean that science in a tank does not apply. I operate reef tanks using the best that nature offers, then designed around my captive ecosystem. Because I have great demands on my time and many tanks to maintain, I rely on natural biofiltration combining bacteria, algae & sponges to recycle nutrients into desirable biomass like corals & fish. In isolated situations, I have gone 5 years with zero water change. The Germans did not invent The Triton Method, I have been using algae filtration for 35 years. The Chinese at probably 5000 years.

In my experience, a protein skimmer is always good for gas exchange. Because I design systems with robust surface circulation to promote gas exchange and cascading water into sump, further increasing gas exchange. I see no need of protein skimmer. Keep it available as insurance for any upset. By not stripping free swimming bacteria from the water column, the microbial loop is enhanced to transfer 60% of reef energy of carbon up thru the food chain.

Well ok then I'm convinced and going to give this a try and document the changes. You think I should take socks offline first or just jump off and take them out and close down skimmer all at once?
 
Well ok then I'm convinced and going to give this a try and document the changes. You think I should take socks offline first or just jump off and take them out and close down skimmer all at once?
I stopped running socks months ago. Much more pods all over my system now. Skimmer and macros pick up the extra load.
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%
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