Burning through DI resin every ~120 gallon

Downfall

Community Member
View Badges
Joined
Sep 22, 2009
Messages
93
Reaction score
70
Location
WI
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
After moving to a new home, I'm now burning through DI resin every ~120 gallons or so. This is a HUGE change from the 1,500+ gallons I'd get at the old house. It's a problem of not only waste/cost but also the time of having to swap out the resin which feels like every month or so.

I put in brand new prefilters, carbon blocks and RO membrane; with no change to DI resin consumption. I have a 5 stage BRS system with a standard 10" DI mixed bed resin stage. I also have smart buddy booster pump. ~300 ppm going into the system and ~3 ppm coming out of the RO membrane.

BRS suggested that I run an ATI ICP test, as they test both tank water and RO water. My RO water came back with only 0.2416 ppm silicon. BRS wants me to spend quite a bit of money going to separate cation/anion resins, but I'm concerned this won't help.

I have a municipal water source, without chloramines, but it's well fed system. Possibly carbon dioxide (CO2)? Is there an easy way to test for dissolved CO2?
 
Triple stage pro resin setup will handle the silica. BRS is correct about that.

Your problem for quick DI depletion is CO2 in the well water. You need to build a degassing chamber between the membrane and resin. Let it degas for 24 hours and then send through the resin
 
Or just just leave your DI canister blank. I have the same problem. All that gets past my membrane is silica, and I don't mind, and neither do my sponges.
 
If your water is high in CO2 it can use up resin quickly. I was using up an cartridge in less then 100 gallons prior to adding a degassing chamber.
 
I have the same problem but I just stopped going by the resin color. My resin changed color in 120 gallons but it still reduces tds from 5 out of the membrane to 0 after the resin even after 500 gallons. Not sure exactly what’s going on but I just wait until it goes up to 1 ppm before changing it.
 
I have the same problem but I just stopped going by the resin color. My resin changed color in 120 gallons but it still reduces tds from 5 out of the membrane to 0 after the resin even after 500 gallons. Not sure exactly what’s going on but I just wait until it goes up to 1 ppm before changing it.

Color changing DI resin goes by pH and with high CO2, you are sending super low pH into the resin so it reacts and changes color
 
+1 to what everyone here is saying about ph and degassing. I have well water also. Solved this issue by pumping water through di phase into a brute, letting two air stones run for 24 hours, then pumping through the di phase into a 2nd brute. No issues since. Since adopting this method, I have made over 600 gallons of top off water, and the di stage still has over 60% life left.
 
+1 to what everyone here is saying about ph and degassing. I have well water also. Solved this issue by pumping water through di phase into a brute, letting two air stones run for 24 hours, then pumping through the di phase into a 2nd brute. No issues since. Since adopting this method, I have made over 600 gallons of top off water, and the di stage still has over 60% life left.
What type of pump do you use to push the degassed water through the DI resin? I like this idea, and I see it thrown around a lot, but rarely can I find pictures and a parts list! Thank you for your help!
 
I have the same problem but I just stopped going by the resin color. My resin changed color in 120 gallons but it still reduces tds from 5 out of the membrane to 0 after the resin even after 500 gallons. Not sure exactly what’s going on but I just wait until it goes up to 1 ppm before changing it.
Mine always starts reading 1 ppm as soon as all the resin changes color. I truly only get ~120 gallons of 0 tds until the resin is depleted.
 
If your water is high in CO2 it can use up resin quickly. I was using up an cartridge in less then 100 gallons prior to adding a degassing chamber.
Do you have any details, pictures or a parts list of what your degassing chamber looked like? Thanks for the help.
 
Or just just leave your DI canister blank. I have the same problem. All that gets past my membrane is silica, and I don't mind, and neither do my sponges.
I've considered this as well. I might go down this path after trying to degas my water of CO2.
 
What type of pump do you use to push the degassed water through the DI resin? I like this idea, and I see it thrown around a lot, but rarely can I find pictures and a parts list! Thank you for your help!
I use the booster pump that I have to get my water pressure to 80 psi. . I have a tee on the inlet with a valve on each leg. One leg comes from the brute, the other from the wall. I have a tee on the other side as well. One leg goes to the ro, the other to the di.

I open the valves from the wall, and to the ro for the first phase. Gass off. Then close those, and open the other ones when I want to push the water through the di phase.

I think I have details in my build thread.
 
What does your tds meter measure for the product water? Are you just exhausting the pH indicator and not the resin? The indicator is a quick visual but the tds meter tells the story.
 
What does your tds meter measure for the product water? Are you just exhausting the pH indicator and not the resin? The indicator is a quick visual but the tds meter tells the story.
300 tds going into the rodi system. ~3 ppm coming out of the RO membrane. No, it doesn't appear that I'm only exhausting the ph indicator, as the color change perfectly matches when I start seeing 1 ppm coming out of the DI step
 
300 tds going into the rodi system. ~3 ppm coming out of the RO membrane. No, it doesn't appear that I'm only exhausting the ph indicator, as the color change perfectly matches when I start seeing 1 ppm coming out of the DI step
So you get 0 ppm before the color changes?
 
If your water is high in CO2 it can use up resin quickly. I was using up an cartridge in less then 100 gallons prior to adding a degassing chamber.
Do you have a picture of this degassing chamber ?
 
Less than 120 gallons and totally brown. Well water of course.

10 tds in 4 out. Does that mean I need to replace the resin?

i-xTkmXcB-X2.jpg
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%
Back
Top