calcium reactor setup ideas?

EXOTICAQUATIX

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I just got a heck of a deal on a precsion marine calcium reactor. I am getting it set up. it will be gravity fed and I am wondering how to set it up with the milwaukee controller. Should I set the ph probe in a effluent cup and monitor the ph this way or put the probe in my sump and monitor the ph this way? With each of these scenerios what would you set the ph to on the controller? Any other knowledge of calcium reactors will be appreciated as well since I'm fairly green to these.
 
im thinking just put the ph probe in the sump and measure the ph of the actual water instead of te effluent from the ca+ reactor....any suggestions?
 
Great post..Following along on this one. I'm considering adding a Cal Reactor to my system. Can i ask why or what is your reason(s) for adding?
 
If you are using the controller to turn on the solenoid, you want to have the probe in a cup that the effluent feeds. I built a probe holder for cheap out of plumbing parts from the local ace hardware store.

You will want to search for some basic directions to get the reactor dialed in and then determine what on/off settings for the Milwaukie
 
If you are using the controller to turn on the solenoid, you want to have the probe in a cup that the effluent feeds. I built a probe holder for cheap out of plumbing parts from the local ace hardware store.

You will want to search for some basic directions to get the reactor dialed in and then determine what on/off settings for the Milwaukie

thanks for responding. I was just going to buy a new ph probe (bc this one is shot, i put in ph 10 and 7 pinpoint calibration solution and it only read a .2 difference between the two) and new calibration solution and calibrate the milwaukie with it. Then I guess i will build a collection cup for the effluent out of arylic and drill a hole for the effluent to slowly run out into the sump. The only problem i am thinking of is that the guy i bought this from said it's best to let the effluent line drip from a high point into the sump ( this way any excess CO2 can diccipate before it hits the sump water). I'm not sure how i will accomplish this high drip with a effluent cup. If i do it this way what would you suggest i set the ph on the controller to turn the C)2 selenoid off?

PAUL C.- the reason I'm adding is i have started keeping sps and have a lot more chalices and the demand for calcium is higher. I also believe stability is very important in growing corals and like the idea of this making my calcium and alkalinity more stable and constant which should increase my growth and color of sps.
 
I am also purchasing a Neptune Systems Apex Lite controller with ph probe. I have never had any experience with these either so if anyone has ever used one of these with a reactor or has experience in using the apex to ramp their leds to mimick sunrise/sunset would be great if you could share your knowledge..thanks guys
 
If you are using the controller to turn on the solenoid, you want to have the probe in a cup that the effluent feeds. I built a probe holder for cheap out of plumbing parts from the local ace hardware store.

You will want to search for some basic directions to get the reactor dialed in and then determine what on/off settings for the Milwaukie


Also wouldnt the controller turn off the selenoid?
 
I suspended my pH probe over a Lee's Specimen Container like they bag fish in at the LFS. The container hangs on the side of the sump and the reactor effluent drips into it and turns the reactor co2 solenoid on and off.

George has some really good instructions that apply to any calcium reactor here:
Calcium Reactors
 
I picked up a threaded nylon "T" from my local hardware store and have 2 JGuess type connection on each end and then I bought one of these;

1/2" In-Line Probe Holder :: Probe Holders :: Monitors & Controllers :: Champion Lighting & Supply that I have the probe sitting in.

Yes you are correect about the controller turning off the solenoid too. I use my APEX to control it and at first I dialed it in so the effluent's PH was coming out around 6.5. Then its a matter of testing to see where the settings need to be. Depending on your livestock it will vary on the amount of burn time you will have, I presently have the following for my program;
Fallback OFF
If pH2 > 06.68 Then ON
If pH2 < 6.5- Then OFF

i use extra coarse media and my system is not your average size. Its SPS dominant and I have my bubble count at about 3-4 per second and my effluent rate is about 5mls per second. My solenoid is on for 5.5 mins and then off for 5 mins and this continues 24/7 and keeps my KH rock solid stable at 8.96

HTH
 
Last edited:
I picked up a threaded nylon "T" from my local hardware store and have 2 JGuess type connection on each end and then I bought one of these;

1/2" In-Line Probe Holder :: Probe Holders :: Monitors & Controllers :: Champion Lighting & Supply that I have the probe sitting in.

Yes you are correect about the controller turning off the solenoid too. I use my APEX to control it and at first I dialed it in so the effluent's PH was coming out around 6.5. Then its a matter of testing to see where the settings need to be. Depending on your livestock it will vary on the amount of burn time you will have, I presently have the following for my program;
Fallback OFF
If pH2 > 06.68 Then ON
If pH2 < 6.5- Then OFF

i use extra coarse media and my system is not your average size. Its SPS dominant and I have my bubble count at about 3-4 per second and my effluent rate is about 5mls per second. My solenoid is on for 5.5 mins and then off for 5 mins and this continues 24/7 and keeps my KH rock solid stable at 8.96

HTH
thats awesome because i just ordered a apex and 2 ph probes and im gomma do away with the milwaukie controller. Do you know where i can get some instructions to do this?
 
thats awesome because i just ordered a apex and 2 ph probes and im gomma do away with the milwaukie controller. Do you know where i can get some instructions to do this?

Not sure which instructions you're talking about exactly whether its getting the reactor tuned in or the settings on the controller. Once you get the reactors effluent coming out at roughly 6.5 when the solenoid is open and CO2 is being added then you will want to set your APEX similar to what the example I posted.
It requires a lot of testing for KH initially becuase the more your solenoid is open and dissolving your media the higher your KH will be.
So in essence you will be testing your KH and adjusting the 'on' time your solenoid is open.
I think initially (4 years ago) I used to run my settings around on when the PH hit 6.8 and off when it reach 6.65, but that depends on your corals needs. That link on page one gives some good information-this is from that link;

Open the needle valve on the side of the regulator to allow a bubbles to rise in the bubble counter. To start off, one bubble every three seconds is recommended.
Close the pinch valve on the effluent tubing so that the output is roughly 40-60ml per minute.

That should get you close to start off then its just a matter of testing, wiating 24 hours, adjusting, waiting 24hours, testing, adjusting, waiting 24 hours-it took me a week to get things dialed in perfect and that was 4 years ago

Look that link over, it will help a lot

THEN

Unrelated to the controller running the reactor you should look into testing your KH through the titration method using that second PH probe.

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1583884

Around post 15 I think its explained a little more clearly, you dont need to make your own acid. Basiclly take your 2nd PH probe that you will probably be using to just monitor the tanks PH, (thats what I use my 2nd one for) and place it in a container with 100ml of tank water, add the .1N sulfuric acid until the probe reads 4.20 as the PH, then multiply the number of mls it took to get to 4.2 by 2.8.
For me I use 3.2 mls of acid, multiplied by 2.8 gives me a KH reading of 8.96, its accurate beyond belief, no colors to mess with and the best thing, its CHEAP. I buy a gollon of acid for 50.00 and it is good for close to 1250 tests, ya 1250 tests for 50.00 with scientific accuracy.
 
Not sure which instructions you're talking about exactly whether its getting the reactor tuned in or the settings on the controller. Once you get the reactors effluent coming out at roughly 6.5 when the solenoid is open and CO2 is being added then you will want to set your APEX similar to what the example I posted.
It requires a lot of testing for KH initially becuase the more your solenoid is open and dissolving your media the higher your KH will be.
So in essence you will be testing your KH and adjusting the 'on' time your solenoid is open.
I think initially (4 years ago) I used to run my settings around on when the PH hit 6.8 and off when it reach 6.65, but that depends on your corals needs. That link on page one gives some good information-this is from that link;

Open the needle valve on the side of the regulator to allow a bubbles to rise in the bubble counter. To start off, one bubble every three seconds is recommended.
Close the pinch valve on the effluent tubing so that the output is roughly 40-60ml per minute.

That should get you close to start off then its just a matter of testing, wiating 24 hours, adjusting, waiting 24hours, testing, adjusting, waiting 24 hours-it took me a week to get things dialed in perfect and that was 4 years ago

Look that link over, it will help a lot

THEN

Unrelated to the controller running the reactor you should look into testing your KH through the titration method using that second PH probe.

DIY Alkalinity test - Reef Central Online Community

Around post 15 I think its explained a little more clearly, you dont need to make your own acid. Basiclly take your 2nd PH probe that you will probably be using to just monitor the tanks PH, (thats what I use my 2nd one for) and place it in a container with 100ml of tank water, add the .1N sulfuric acid until the probe reads 4.20 as the PH, then multiply the number of mls it took to get to 4.2 by 2.8.
For me I use 3.2 mls of acid, multiplied by 2.8 gives me a KH reading of 8.96, its accurate beyond belief, no colors to mess with and the best thing, its CHEAP. I buy a gollon of acid for 50.00 and it is good for close to 1250 tests, ya 1250 tests for 50.00 with scientific accuracy.

i like the idea of that. where do you buy the acid?
 

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