CalmSeasQuest's Big Blue Wall

CalmSeasQuest · Dec 28, 2013

Over the past 20 years, I've built and kept a variety of smaller reef tanks including a series of rather "unique" desktop tanks. I finally have an opportunity for a larger build. This system is being placed in the living of my home with ATO and AWC equipment directly below the tank in the basement. It should end up around ~350 gallons.

Here's the current equipment list:

Tank -- GLA 275 (96" X 30 X 22) 1/2" Starphire, open top w/clear cross bracing fitted with a BeanAnimal style internal overflow (3X1.5" drains)
Sump -- GLA 72X24X18, 135 gallon glass sump, center return with 30X24 refugeum
Lighting, Display tank -- Planning 4-5X Kessil 360We, controlled by the Apex
Lighting, Sump/Refugeum - YTBD
Return Pump -- Waveline 12000 @ 3000 GPH feeding return, refugeum and manifold
Controller - Apex Aquacontroller, w/various modules.
Skimmer -- Vertex Alpha 250
Calcium reactor -- GEO 612 (on hand) w/Tropic Eden and NeoMag. Aquarium Plants digital regulator. Larger CaRx once demand increases.
Kalk Reactor -- GEO KR-618 fed by ATO peristaltic pump.
Saltwater Make-up and storage - 2X200 gallon Norwesco 30X72" tanks, fed and mixed by Waveline 12000 (backup for return pump)
Continous Water Change (CWC) - Cole-Parmer Masterflex w/dual peristaltic pumps
ATO -- Osmolator water sensor using Cole-Parmer peristaltic pump.
Water movement - Planning 2X MP60ES/2XMP40s, (although it's hard not to consider the WP-60's)
Rock -- BRS Pukani and shelf
Substrate -- 1.5"-2" Tropic Eden Reef Flakes
Heaters -- YTBD
GFO/GAC -- YTBD (Vertex or MR1) dual reactors running HiCap GFO and ROX .08 GAC as needed
BioPellets - YTBD
UV - YTBD
Ozone - YTBD

The tank was ordered 12/16/13, expected tank and stand build time about 6 weeks. There's a lot to get done in the interim including,

- Relocate 2 existing tanks, remove hung LED lighting, repair and paint
- Remove carpeting, install emergency drain and tile tank area
- Complete water RO/DI storage, Saltwater mixing, CWC and ATO station in basement

I expected to have to do some floor strengthening, but was pleasantly surprised to find it was not necessary. I had the tank location reviewed by a structural engineer. The tank will sit perpendicular to 5 2X10 joists spanning only 48" between the poured basement wall and steel I-beam. Nothing additional was recommended as the intended location will support 5500lbs.

Lots of decisions still pending including final decisions on lighting, overflow and sump design. This will also be my first attempt as hard-plumbing. I figured I'd start with the saltwater mixing station hoping to make the beginner mistakes there rather than on the tank.

For those that might be wondering about the "Big Blue Wall" thread title -- I'm planning on painting the wall behind the tank a cobalt blue (the rest of the room is white.) As the Kessil pendants put out an incredible amount of shimmer, and this tank is open-top, I'm hopeful it might turn the entire wall into an interesting, shimmery backdrop for the tank.

Thank you for taking the time to read this and for all the questions and advice I'll no doubt be asking for.

CalmSeasQuest · Dec 28, 2013

As for the plans for this tank, I'm largely undecided. I really enjoyed the time I spent learning about planted tanks, Iwagumi in particular. I'm thinking about trying to incorporate some of those design cues into this tank - especially the use of negative space. Here's an example of the hardscape I created that I likes so much, it sits dry and as-is in my living room...

Obviously a reef tank will look dramatically different, but I bet I can find a way to incorporate some of the "feel" of it. I've got a couple hundred pounds of pukani and shelf that I've accumulated over the years to choose from.

Another absolute luxury I'm still trying to wrap my head around is the pure amount of space available both in the tank and sump. Equipment wise, it allows me to go with whatever is desired without worrying if it will fit. As for stocking, it will be SPS dominant. Fish selection itself will be a lot of fun as I've never had the luxury of an 8'X30" of swimming space. The only sure thing is I want to find a female companion for my Red Mandarin (George) who has been with me for more than 4 years. All the rest will have to be decided with my daughter Tori probably having final approval power - Anthias, a pair of Picassos, it will be fun choosing

I suspect the king-of-the-tank will likely be an Achilles, but that won't happen until much later.

I underestimated the amount of room these twin 200 gallon tanks and associated mixing/CTW plumbing was going to require. As a result, I've had to remove a series of storage racks and turn a rarely used second guest room in the basement into a permanent storage facility.

I completed a rough design and placed the plumbing orders from Savko, USPlastic and Cole-Parmer. It took far more hours to think through the saltwater mixing station design than I anticipated and then even more to figure out each individual plumbing component. No doubt it contains lots of newby-plumber mistakes, but I think it will be functional.

CalmSeasQuest · Dec 28, 2013

I've largely decided on the sump design, I'm going to enlarge the below uncleof6 design that will provide a 20X24X10 skimmer area, 18X24X9 for the return pump and 30X24X12 for a fuge/frag area. This should be about 75 gallons in operational volume and allow for about ~50 gallons in overflow when the return pump is off (I'll use a wye check valve on the return, but never trust them.)

All that needs to be added is a manifold and slight rerouting of the siphon and trickle drains to incorporate the occasional use of filter socks. I'll create a 5 tap manifold for the GFO, GAC and BioPellet reactors and a couple spares.

I think I've also changed my return pump selection, deciding to go with the Waveline 12000. It provides more flow and head pressure than the Diablo. The only inconvenience is the intake is larger (1.5") requiring some plumbing changes to the saltwater mixing station.

Still researching GFO, GAC and bio pellet reactors. I've had lots of flow issues with the BRS reactors over the years, so perhaps Vertex or NextReef MR1s. I'd like to use a manifold tap to drive the CaRx, but I've had such great luck with the Cole-Parmer - I'm not sure I want to fool with it.

I also decided on a Vertex Alpha 250 as it will run happily in 10" of water. Perhaps the greatest challenge will be fitting all the "Dry" equipment into the remaining 22X29 space in the cabinet.

CalmSeasQuest · Dec 28, 2013

As I'm researching equipment for this build, It dawns on me....

We struggle, spending dozens of hours researching just the right LED's to reduce electrical needs and limit heat (at least radiant heat) from entering the tank...

We use the latest, most energy efficient DC pumps to save energy and reduce the amount of heat being added to the tank.

We use Killawatts to tabulate every watt leached by every ancillary device to create the most "green" environment possible, All so we can...

Buy MORE, LARGER, energy sucking HEATERS that are now needed to compensate for the missing Metal Halide heaters (poorly disguised as lights) and all the cold, energy sipping devices we just paid a huge premium for.

Somehow, with all the smaller tanks I've had over the years, it never really hit home. It's interesting what you pay attention to when you realize you how many Watts are needed to heat 350 gallons of saltwater :faint2:

And do so gladly I might add :bigsmile:

CalmSeasQuest · Dec 28, 2013

RO/DI and Saltwater tanks are in place. Each hold 200 gallons (30"DiaX72"tall) I've started roughing out the plumbing and the Waveline DC12000 should get here Monday along with a few missing plumbing components.

I'm estimating ~7 GPD evaporation. I'll rig a latching float system with the Apex which will automatically fill the RO/DI tank. Other than monitoring and periodically changing RO/DI filters, resin and membranes, The ATO system should require very little maintenance.

The plan for the AWC is to use a Masterflex pump driving 2 peristaltic pumps to replace about 4 GPD. This should yield a ~40% monthly water change and require refilling the saltwater tank every 6~7 weeks.

I am having some second thoughts on the tank dimensions. I initially decided on limiting the tank height to 22" so I could reach the substrate with the tank sitting on a 36" tall stand. I'm now thinking that perhaps I should just go with the 320 and gain the additional 4" of height.

Decisions, decisions...

mike007 · Dec 28, 2013

Sounds awesome keep us posted.

CalmSeasQuest · Dec 28, 2013

Thanks Mike - I think I've decided to stick with my original 58" overall height. Trying to reach 20"toward the back of the tank with the added height would be tough.

AJsTank · Dec 28, 2013

CalmSeasQuest said:
As for the plans for this tank, I'm largely undecided. I really enjoyed the time I spent learning about planted tanks, Iwagumi in particular. I'm thinking about trying to incorporate some of those design cues into this tank - especially the use of negative space. Here's an example of the hardscape I created that I likes so much, it sits dry and as-is in my living room...

Obviously a reef tank will look dramatically different, but I bet I can find a way to incorporate some of the "feel" of it. I've got a couple hundred pounds of pukani and shelf that I've accumulated over the years to choose from.

Another absolute luxury I'm still trying to wrap my head around is the pure amount of space available both in the tank and sump. Equipment wise, it allows me to go with whatever is desired without worrying if it will fit. As for stocking, it will be SPS dominant. Fish selection itself will be a lot of fun as I've never had the luxury of an 8'X30" of swimming space. The only sure thing is I want to find a female companion for my Red Mandarin (George) who has been with me for more than 4 years. All the rest will have to be decided with my daughter Tori probably having final approval power - Anthias, a pair of Picassos, it will be fun choosing I suspect the king-of-the-tank will likely be an Achilles, but that won't happen until much later.

I underestimated the amount of room these twin 200 gallon tanks and associated mixing/CTW plumbing was going to require. As a result, I've had to remove a series of storage racks and turn a rarely used second guest room in the basement into a permanent storage facility.

I completed a rough design and placed the plumbing orders from Savko, USPlastic and Cole-Parmer. It took far more hours to think through the saltwater mixing station design than I anticipated and then even more to figure out each individual plumbing component. No doubt it contains lots of newby-plumber mistakes, but I think it will be functional.

Dang. That looks cool without water in it. You could add lizards in there and have yourself a little reptile tank. ha

yogamon · Dec 29, 2013

this is going to be awesome..cant wait to see more progress:bigsmile:

CalmSeasQuest · Dec 29, 2013

After much deliberation, I committed to the Kessils A360WE's and took advantage of a 10% off coupon through ReefGeek (not to mention the things are sold out most everywhere else.) With my shallow depth and the additional 15% output from the new "E" models, I'm hopeful they will end up being a great choice.

5 - A360WE Controllable LED Aquarium Light - Wide Angle Lens
5 - 90 Degree Gooseneck Adapter
1 - Control Unit Link Cable for A360 and A360W to Neptune Systems Apex
5 - Control Unit Link Cable for A360 and A360W KSL0103
5 - Gooseneck Clamp/Mount for A150, A350, and A360

I ordered 5 to begin with to see what 1 unit every 18" looks like. The gooseneck adapters should give me the ability to "stagger" the lights if needed to cover the 30" front/back.

Still searching for the Vertex Alpha 250 as they appear to be pretty scarce. Took advantage of other year-end sales and grabbed 4 cases of IO/RC, 300lbs of Tropic Eden Reef Flakes, another Apex system (so I don't have to cannibalize my existing setup which will be used as QT/hospital tank) and a second Waveline 12000 (same pumps used for return and saltwater mixing station.)

I also decided to roll the dice and try the Jaebo WP series pumps. I ordered 4 60's, and a couple 40's and 10's to test.

CalmSeasQuest · Dec 30, 2013

In finalizing the designs for the saltwater mixing station, I'm reconsidering the use of a Kalk reactor.

Years back I read a great article written by Randy Holmes-Farley on the benefits of adding vinegar to fortify Kalk. Since then, I've had success adding vinegar to Kalk, both to increase the amount of available calcium and as an added carbon source. I attribute this process (in addition to the use of DSBs) to my never having any nitrate issues. As this will be my first large tank with a SSB, I want to do all I can to maximize biological filtration - including the use of vinegar. The use of a Kalk reactor makes that more complicated. Instead, I plan on adding a covered 40 gallon brute to the mixing/storage station which will be fed by the RO/DI storage tank and hold an over-saturation of Kalk to which Vinegar can be dosed. This will be the ATO source.

This will allow me to continue using Vinegar, eliminate the cost of another reactor and most importantly - save space in the cabinet. It will also forestall the need for a larger CaRx and likely remove entirely the need for a bio-pellet reactor (Anecdotally, I found no benefits when I tested adding Bio-Pellets concurrently with vinegar dosing.)

Adding yet another water container will be a tight fit in the basement, but I think the benefits outweigh the inconvenience, and if for some reason it fails to perform as expected, I can always add the Kalk Reactor.

revhtree · Dec 30, 2013

Wow this is already turning out to be awesome! I love the scape you're playing with! Very unique.

Jimbo662 · Dec 30, 2013

Wow, this is going to be amazing. Very interested to see your opinions of the Kessils. I bought two for my 75g but it won't be set up for another month and a half or so.

CalmSeasQuest · Dec 30, 2013

Jimbo662 said:
Wow, this is going to be amazing. Very interested to see your opinions of the Kessils. I bought two for my 75g but it won't be set up for another month and a half or so.

You might beat me Jimbo, my tank won't be delivered for another month or so.

ahtatt · Dec 30, 2013

This will be most impressive.

Be careful with those brute cans, I have read they leach phosphates.
I've had this problem with mine, and have begun using can liners.

CalmSeasQuest · Dec 31, 2013

ahtatt said:
This will be most impressive.

Be careful with those brute cans, I have read they leach phosphates.
I've had this problem with mine, and have begun using can liners.

Thanks ahtatt,

I've heard the concern about brutes leaching phosphates for years. I've had my 2 current white 40 gallon brutes for more than 5 years and have tested them a few times - I've never been able to detect any phosphates (Hanna 736 ULR.) Not sure what the source is, but anecdotally, I've never had a problem.

CalmSeasQuest · Dec 31, 2013

Made a bit of progress (sorry for the horrid cell cam pics)...

The first DC12000 arrived - it looks tiny next to the 200G tanks...

Most of the plumbing is mocked up - I'm missing one union to account for the 1 1/2" intake in the Waveline. I installed a 4X8 3/4" plywood wall that will be painted white upon which the water treatment equipment and electrical will be installed. A shelf will hold the Masterflex pumps. The 40 gallon brute will serve as a still reservoir holding Kalk for the ATO...

I picked up a 100g stock tank to aid in cleaning/curing the Pukani and will serve as a temp holding tank for my current livestock when I tear down the two existing tanks.