CalmSeasQuest's Big Blue Wall
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CalmSeasQuest
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Thanks Darren - Welcome aboard!
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CalmSeasQuest
Well-Known Member
Constant Water Change System (CWC)
I've gotten lots of questions about the how the dual pump heads work.
I fitted this Masterflex peristaltic pump with two pump heads which turn about a single shaft. This allows them to move very close to identical liquid volumes with very little maintenance (such as having to calibrate pumps and take-apart pump heads to perform periodic maintenance as is required in systems such as the Litermeter III.) By simply reversing the direction in which the tubing is placed in the pump head, you can have one pump "push" while the other "pulls"
This will drive the continuous water change system (CWC) - One head will remove old saltwater from the return section of the sump, while the other simultaneously adds the exact amount of new saltwater to the return section. Depending on the final lengths of each run, there may be a small difference in the exact volumes pumped. If this occurs, I'll use an pinch or IV style ramp clamp to slightly impede the faster of the two line.
Based on the amount of water being exchanged, the 200 gallon saltwater storage tank should run quite a while before requiring refilling. When the tank is new, I'll probably set it to change 20% monthly which will run for about 11 weeks before requiring refilling. As the bio-load increases, the touch of a button increases the amount of water exchanged to whatever is desired.
I've found these pumps to be nearly bulletproof as they are designed for constant duty. I've had one feeding a CaRx 24/7 for almost 5 years with no maintenance whatsoever (even the tubing is original as it runs at very low RPM.) In theory it should be provide stability for the tank and be a "set it and forget" style system (at least for a couple months at a time.)
I've gotten lots of questions about the how the dual pump heads work.
I fitted this Masterflex peristaltic pump with two pump heads which turn about a single shaft. This allows them to move very close to identical liquid volumes with very little maintenance (such as having to calibrate pumps and take-apart pump heads to perform periodic maintenance as is required in systems such as the Litermeter III.) By simply reversing the direction in which the tubing is placed in the pump head, you can have one pump "push" while the other "pulls"
This will drive the continuous water change system (CWC) - One head will remove old saltwater from the return section of the sump, while the other simultaneously adds the exact amount of new saltwater to the return section. Depending on the final lengths of each run, there may be a small difference in the exact volumes pumped. If this occurs, I'll use an pinch or IV style ramp clamp to slightly impede the faster of the two line.
Based on the amount of water being exchanged, the 200 gallon saltwater storage tank should run quite a while before requiring refilling. When the tank is new, I'll probably set it to change 20% monthly which will run for about 11 weeks before requiring refilling. As the bio-load increases, the touch of a button increases the amount of water exchanged to whatever is desired.
I've found these pumps to be nearly bulletproof as they are designed for constant duty. I've had one feeding a CaRx 24/7 for almost 5 years with no maintenance whatsoever (even the tubing is original as it runs at very low RPM.) In theory it should be provide stability for the tank and be a "set it and forget" style system (at least for a couple months at a time.)
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CalmSeasQuest
Well-Known Member
Thanks Fin - Welcome aboard!
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CalmSeasQuest
Well-Known Member
Prior to beginning any work on the saltwater station, I had to clear out all the items collected over the last 22 years that were stored that part of the furnace room...
I sacrificed a rarely used guest room in the basement, converting it into a storage facility....
Now with the area cleared, I could begin...
Area tiled, mounting area for water treatment equipment and pumps sealed...
Tanks put back in place...
Bottom manifold completed and installed...
Still have to drill the tops of the tanks and complete the upper manifold. Then I can begin moving the RO/DI equipment into place.
I sacrificed a rarely used guest room in the basement, converting it into a storage facility....
Now with the area cleared, I could begin...
Area tiled, mounting area for water treatment equipment and pumps sealed...
Tanks put back in place...
Bottom manifold completed and installed...
Still have to drill the tops of the tanks and complete the upper manifold. Then I can begin moving the RO/DI equipment into place.
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CalmSeasQuest
Well-Known Member
We're making water 
I filled both tanks and to my surprise, had only a couple of small leaks (fixed.) I'm elated as this was my first attempt at hard plumbing. Everthing seems to function as intended so far. I'm impressed with the Waveline 12000 - it moves an incredible amount of water and is very quiet. One small problem - I had to use raw well water to leak test the tanks which contains a fair amount of precipitated iron. I need to get the tanks and lines rinsed as soon as I've got about a 100 gallons of water made.
There is still lots to do, but at least I'm able to start making water. Next will be,
Rinse the inside of the tanks as soon as I've got enough water. I have a second, 75GDP Dow Filmtec RO membrane that I may try adding to increase the output. I'm pretty lucky, my RO running at 100 PSI generates 1 TDS water to the DI resin, so I think the second membrane will work
Fill the stock tank and start soaking the Pukani (need to get this done so I can use the tank to transfer the existing livestock.)
Clean up all the water and power line runs and run an Aquabus cable so I can gain control of the E8B
Run the Fill/Drain line (a single 3/4" line will both fill and drain the tank), CWC and ATO lines upstairs
I still have to decide on the automation. For the RO tank, A latching valve arrangement is tough as I can't get at the bottom of the tank. I'll probably use a simple float valve tied to the Apex. Turning on the RO once every couple weeks or so for just long enough to top off the tank. The Kalk/ATO tank is a bit trickier. I don't think a float or optical sensor will work well as a hard crust forms on the surface of the water. In addition, vinegar has to be added with each fill. For the time being, I'll probably just fill it manually. It should be a weekly item and only requires opening a single valve. I've got a bunch of BRS top-off and dosing pumps on hand - I'll work on automating the top off and vinegar add once everything else is done
I filled both tanks and to my surprise, had only a couple of small leaks (fixed.) I'm elated as this was my first attempt at hard plumbing. Everthing seems to function as intended so far. I'm impressed with the Waveline 12000 - it moves an incredible amount of water and is very quiet. One small problem - I had to use raw well water to leak test the tanks which contains a fair amount of precipitated iron. I need to get the tanks and lines rinsed as soon as I've got about a 100 gallons of water made.
There is still lots to do, but at least I'm able to start making water. Next will be,
Rinse the inside of the tanks as soon as I've got enough water. I have a second, 75GDP Dow Filmtec RO membrane that I may try adding to increase the output. I'm pretty lucky, my RO running at 100 PSI generates 1 TDS water to the DI resin, so I think the second membrane will work
Fill the stock tank and start soaking the Pukani (need to get this done so I can use the tank to transfer the existing livestock.)
Clean up all the water and power line runs and run an Aquabus cable so I can gain control of the E8B
Run the Fill/Drain line (a single 3/4" line will both fill and drain the tank), CWC and ATO lines upstairs
I still have to decide on the automation. For the RO tank, A latching valve arrangement is tough as I can't get at the bottom of the tank. I'll probably use a simple float valve tied to the Apex. Turning on the RO once every couple weeks or so for just long enough to top off the tank. The Kalk/ATO tank is a bit trickier. I don't think a float or optical sensor will work well as a hard crust forms on the surface of the water. In addition, vinegar has to be added with each fill. For the time being, I'll probably just fill it manually. It should be a weekly item and only requires opening a single valve. I've got a bunch of BRS top-off and dosing pumps on hand - I'll work on automating the top off and vinegar add once everything else is done
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CalmSeasQuest
Well-Known Member
I installed the second RO membrane. With ~310TDS softened, working water, it's now producing about 150 GPD, but the RO product water did increase to 3TDS. I'm shocked it's working as well as it is - in fact, I assumed the inline TDS meters might have been wrong but my hand-held provided the same results. I'll gladly accept the 3TDS as the SpectraPure SilcaBuster and MaxCap DI resin works very well.
Here's a quick video showing the flow on the Waveline DC12000 running at full-output. This is looking down through the cover on one of the 200 gallon tanks (~7' head) with 1 1/4" plumbing...
Here's a quick video showing the flow on the Waveline DC12000 running at full-output. This is looking down through the cover on one of the 200 gallon tanks (~7' head) with 1 1/4" plumbing...
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CalmSeasQuest
Well-Known Member
Thanks nitrox36 - Coming from you that means a lot!
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CalmSeasQuest
Well-Known Member
The RO/DI is cranking out 0TDS water at the rate of about 150GPH, but I'm hearing new noises emanating from the boost pump. It's an older pump and likely due to be rebuilt/replaced. I'm also concerned that it might be out-drawing the 1/4" feed coming from the saddle valve.
I decided to order a new Aquatronic 8800 boost pump, pressure switch and solenoid that will cut the flow of water to the system when the pump is de-energized. I'm also adding a second saddle valve which will be T'd into the supply side of the RO/DI.
A float at the top of the RO storage tank will turn off the pump and cut the water supply to the RO/DI. Once I determine the evaporation rates and fill times required, I'll use the Apex to manage the pump on/off days and run times of the pump as a fail-safe.
I decided to order a new Aquatronic 8800 boost pump, pressure switch and solenoid that will cut the flow of water to the system when the pump is de-energized. I'm also adding a second saddle valve which will be T'd into the supply side of the RO/DI.
A float at the top of the RO storage tank will turn off the pump and cut the water supply to the RO/DI. Once I determine the evaporation rates and fill times required, I'll use the Apex to manage the pump on/off days and run times of the pump as a fail-safe.
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CalmSeasQuest
Well-Known Member
Happiness is having 400 gallons of RO/DI available at the turn of a valve
I'm waiting on a few more parts to complete the plumbing upstairs to the tank area. My plan is to run a single 3/4" line with a couple valves such that it can be used to both fill, and drain the tank.
I took a break from working on the saltwater station and turned my focus to prepping the live rock I have on hand. I considered using Muriatic acid to dissolve the outer layer of the rock (hopefully including the bound phosphates), but the weather here makes that more difficult...
-5F and 15"+ of snow presents a challenge working the rock outside.
So instead, I put the ~100lbs of Pukani and some BRS reef saver I had on hand in the stock tank with 20:1 RO/bleach solution, a heater set to 82F and one of the new WP25's I just received to keep the water moving.
I used a few pieces of acrylic I had on hand left over from prior projects to minimize evaporation and keep the bleach fumes contained...
I'll bleach it for a few days, then empty the tank, rinse - then refill with saltwater. I ordered Lanthanum Chloride (SeaKlear) to help reduce what I'm sure will be a ton of Phosphates that leach from the Pukani.
Once complete, I'll transfer the rock into Brutes to continue the curing/make live process while I move my existing livestock to the stock tank.
I'm waiting on a few more parts to complete the plumbing upstairs to the tank area. My plan is to run a single 3/4" line with a couple valves such that it can be used to both fill, and drain the tank.
I took a break from working on the saltwater station and turned my focus to prepping the live rock I have on hand. I considered using Muriatic acid to dissolve the outer layer of the rock (hopefully including the bound phosphates), but the weather here makes that more difficult...
-5F and 15"+ of snow presents a challenge working the rock outside.
So instead, I put the ~100lbs of Pukani and some BRS reef saver I had on hand in the stock tank with 20:1 RO/bleach solution, a heater set to 82F and one of the new WP25's I just received to keep the water moving.
I used a few pieces of acrylic I had on hand left over from prior projects to minimize evaporation and keep the bleach fumes contained...
I'll bleach it for a few days, then empty the tank, rinse - then refill with saltwater. I ordered Lanthanum Chloride (SeaKlear) to help reduce what I'm sure will be a ton of Phosphates that leach from the Pukani.
Once complete, I'll transfer the rock into Brutes to continue the curing/make live process while I move my existing livestock to the stock tank.
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CalmSeasQuest
Well-Known Member
Skimmer ordered 
BK Double Cone 250 RD3
BK Double Cone 250 RD3
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CalmSeasQuest
Well-Known Member
I installed the new RO booster pump, pressure switch, solenoid and second water feed...
I'm really pleased at how well it's producing. With 100PSI across the membranes, I've got ~310TDS softened well water being reduced to ~2TDS by the RO and cranked out at ~150 GPD. The Spectrapure MaxCap and Silica Buster DI resins should last many hundreds of gallons.
I finished bleaching the rock, now I'm trying vinegar to dissolve a bit of the exterior layer. It's not as effective as Muriatic acid, but I can deal with it inside. I'm debating on ordering a bit more rock from BRS or perhaps Marco as I also need more Thorite.
I also finished pressure-testing the storage tanks and manifold - Topped off with 400 gallons - No Leaks
I'm really pleased at how well it's producing. With 100PSI across the membranes, I've got ~310TDS softened well water being reduced to ~2TDS by the RO and cranked out at ~150 GPD. The Spectrapure MaxCap and Silica Buster DI resins should last many hundreds of gallons.
I finished bleaching the rock, now I'm trying vinegar to dissolve a bit of the exterior layer. It's not as effective as Muriatic acid, but I can deal with it inside. I'm debating on ordering a bit more rock from BRS or perhaps Marco as I also need more Thorite.
I also finished pressure-testing the storage tanks and manifold - Topped off with 400 gallons - No Leaks
OP
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CalmSeasQuest
Well-Known Member
Let there be light...
Vertex Vectra Engine automated neck cleaner ordered for the BK...
and Lanthanum Chloride so I can finish cooking the rocks...
The kids chose the color for the reef wall - Sapphire Lace, a shade darker than Cobalt. The shimmer from the Kessils should bring the whole wall to life.
Vertex Vectra Engine automated neck cleaner ordered for the BK...
and Lanthanum Chloride so I can finish cooking the rocks...
The kids chose the color for the reef wall - Sapphire Lace, a shade darker than Cobalt. The shimmer from the Kessils should bring the whole wall to life.
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My Tank Thread
My Aquarium Showcase
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Ahh the awesomeness of this build so far.....
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CalmSeasQuest
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Thanks Rev!
I unboxed one of the Kessils and held it over my current DT just to get a sense of the shimmer.....WOW. I'm really looking forward to this build. I think 8' of shimmer against the rich, blue wall will enhance the overall look of the tank.
The Double Cone should arrive tomorrow- Now all I need is the tank
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CalmSeasQuest
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The tanks came from here...Norwesco Vertical Storage Tanks | 250 Gallons | Tanks For Less
I'll put together a write up on the saltwater station including the production and storage or ASW, the RO/DI, ATO and AWC. Each is really very simple, but in combination, it will take a bit of work to document the entire process.
After bleach, then a vinegar soak I've got the rock in saltwater in a 40 gallon Brute...
I cranked up the temp to 82 and dosed MB-7. I'll let it "percolate" a couple days then test Phosphates which I assume will be off the charts. Probably do a water change, wait a couple more days and test Phosphates again before starting the Lanthanum Chloride.
Next will be transferring the livestock from my existing DT and FT to the stock tank...
It's crude, but should suffice. I'll use the Apex on the existing system to manage it. I'll have to fabricate a skimmer stand, or perhaps just do larger water changes (I'm loving the water change station - just turn 2 valves and water change is done
) As there will only be a pair of clowns and my Mandarin residing in the ~70 gallons, I may just go skimmerless during the transition.Once the tanks are shut down, it's paint, tile and new carpet for the living room, finish routing the plumbing upstairs and perhaps add another 20 amp circuit then relocate the TV, audio and gaming equipment into the new media room (formerly my library)...THEN I'll be ready for the tank
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CalmSeasQuest
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Big box on the porch...
