Can keep acro don't know what I'm doing wrong

  • Thread starter Thread starter Eric23
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Having an sps dominant tank lit by only Kessils I'd be cautious about blaming the light source. I can't find the article but I believe Dana Riddle wrote an about how intensity / high par isn't everything. I would explore flow and an ati/triton test to see if there any parameters out of wack or heavy metals leeching into the tank from somewhere.
 
I'm not sure I understand your question... I have an RO filter hooked up to my sink that I use for water changes
May have a winner here. Ideally you want RO/DI water. RO units designed for drinking water are simply inadequate. Your water source might be full of harmful contaminants.
 
No that's what I meant I have an RO/DI unit from spectrapure that I just changed all of the filters on
 
I personally think it’s a flow issue I have 5 MP40qd and 2 Neptune wav pumps in my 300DD. 3 of the mp40s on the back are from 40-60%, the 2 wav pumps on the sides are from 60-100%, the 2 mp40s on the sides 70-90%

3B06065B-3497-414E-A4EF-05AF89DB7C5B.jpeg
 
I personally think it’s a flow issue I have 5 MP40qd and 2 Neptune wav pumps in my 300DD. 3 of the mp40s on the back are from 40-60%, the 2 wav pumps on the sides are from 60-100%, the 2 mp40s on the sides 70-90%

3B06065B-3497-414E-A4EF-05AF89DB7C5B.jpeg
I'll definitely try bumping it up it's just whenever I put my pumps up high whatever LPS I have hammers and torch and things like that seem to retract and not open up again
 
Amp up your lighting (particularly the white spectrum) and raise your PO4. Acros are also very fond of K. Here is a poopy photo of my 180 at 8 months. Acros were added on day after cycling.
DSCN2774.JPG
 
Amp up your lighting (particularly the white spectrum) and raise your PO4. Acros are also very fond of K. Here is a poopy photo of my 180 at 8 months. Acros were added on day after cycling.
DSCN2774.JPG
Raise Po4 ???? I always thought you want phosphate under 0.04 ? My lights don't go up anymore as far as strength goes they're maxed out but they are more towards the bluish Spectra
 
Have you tested your ro water with a tds meter to see if its near 0 ppm? I had issues with my ro system that i had no idea about until i tested the water after having issues witfh coral growth and found out i was near 120 ppm. Issues what the heck coral growth subsided after changing membrane and bringing ppm down to 0
 
Acros and monties are fast growing corals that need lots of food. I keep the PO4 in my 180 around .25 ppm, although it swings higher and lower. My alk also swings around daily, and one gyre 250 provides all the flow in conjunction with an Eco Tech return pump. Well feed acros given adequate lighting are extremely hardy.
 
First id verify that ph isnt real. Id get a salifert ph test kit. Electronic devices are prone to errors.
 
I agree zero po4 is bad. On the reef they get upwellings of nutrients. Its like breakfast dinner and lunch. Id dose some no3 po4. Paling coral is definitely a nutrient provblem.
 
First id verify that ph isnt real. Id get a salifert ph test kit. Electronic devices are prone to errors.
I took care of that Cory I got a pH kit and it lined up with my calibrated pin point pH monitor. I'm certain my pH is 8.0 - 8.2 depending on time of day... The seneye is way off I think because I didn't soak the slide first.
 
I agree zero po4 is bad. On the reef they get upwellings of nutrients. Its like breakfast dinner and lunch. Id dose some no3 po4. Paling coral is definitely a nutrient provblem.
Doesn't that happen when you feed the tank ? Of I drop in a bunch of mysis or reef frenzy my po4 goes up till it gets sucked up by corals, media, macro, etc.... I've tested this by doing tests right after I feed vs first thing in the morning before I feed. Plus I tend to feed heavy and over filter rather then feed light and worry about nutrients. Is my thinking wrong ? I have a pax bellum chaeto reactor and a marine pure block that keep my system really clean. I tend to have to over feed in order to keep nitrates above 5 ppm and my po4 is always around 0.04 but once in a while it goes higher and I will start to get signs of algae growth or cyano so I'll throw in some media to knock it back down
 
Doesn't that happen when you feed the tank ? Of I drop in a bunch of mysis or reef frenzy my po4 goes up till it gets sucked up by corals, media, macro, etc.... I've tested this by doing tests right after I feed vs first thing in the morning before I feed. Plus I tend to feed heavy and over filter rather then feed light and worry about nutrients. Is my thinking wrong ? I have a pax bellum chaeto reactor and a marine pure block that keep my system really clean. I tend to have to over feed in order to keep nitrates above 5 ppm and my po4 is always around 0.04 but once in a while it goes higher and I will start to get signs of algae growth or cyano so I'll throw in some media to knock it back down
Personally, I think your nutrients are just fine.
 
I think your problem was your RO/DI unit. I almost lost all of my SPS early last year when my RO membrane went bad. Once I replaced that things got wayyy better. I also started adding a little bit of Prime to every bucket of water I make, just in case some chlorine or chloramine is getting through.
 
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Doesn't that happen when you feed the tank ? Of I drop in a bunch of mysis or reef frenzy my po4 goes up till it gets sucked up by corals, media, macro, etc.... I've tested this by doing tests right after I feed vs first thing in the morning before I feed. Plus I tend to feed heavy and over filter rather then feed light and worry about nutrients. Is my thinking wrong ? I have a pax bellum chaeto reactor and a marine pure block that keep my system really clean. I tend to have to over feed in order to keep nitrates above 5 ppm and my po4 is always around 0.04 but once in a while it goes higher and I will start to get signs of algae growth or cyano so I'll throw in some media to knock it back down

Have your tried an icp analysis?
 
I think your problem was your RO/DI unit. I almost lost all of my SPS early last year when my RO membrane went bad. Once I replaced that things got wayyy better. I also started adding a little bit of Prime to every bucket of water I make, just in case some chlorine or chlorime is getting through.
I think that was the problem also. I was replacing DI resin every other month which is a lot for me. My water was reading 0 tds but who knows how accurate my tds meter is and I was reading this article https://www.hydroviv.com/blogs/water-smarts/tds-meters-and-testers which talks about all the things a tds meter can't see.
 
I think that was the problem also. I was replacing DI resin every other month which is a lot for me. My water was reading 0 tds but who knows how accurate my tds meter is and I was reading this article https://www.hydroviv.com/blogs/water-smarts/tds-meters-and-testers which talks about all the things a tds meter can't see.

Thats really eye opening. Pesticides getting through would have a bad effect on zoox. Another reason i think distilled is better.
 
Thats really eye opening. Pesticides getting through would have a bad effect on zoox. Another reason i think distilled is better.

Cant really compare a sink top RO unit to a multi-stage Spectrapure RO/DI unit...
 

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