It appears it may be. Not sure hopefully it was!His math was wrong according to final post?
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It appears it may be. Not sure hopefully it was!His math was wrong according to final post?
Ph 8,2 its still the samThank you.
What where your parameters before you started dosing?
I'm fighting lower ph at the moment is my only concern.
Ph before and after dosing if you know?
Phoshpates and Nitrates before and after?
I control my ph with a airstone, low ph airstone on for a couple days. The rest of the time i dont have a airstone runningThank you.
What where your parameters before you started dosing?
I'm fighting lower ph at the moment is my only concern.
Ph before and after dosing if you know?
Phoshpates and Nitrates before and after?

Yes it was a real risk but i kinda had my fingers crossed and 50ml in 400l isnt really that much once its diluted in the water. But im happy i took the risk , it worked out great. And my tank is stable and my corals are loving the new vodka flavored water. And my algae is 99% gone.Oh man. 50 ml in a 400l tank was a huge gamble. I'm glad it paid off. Reefcentral has a great article on vodka dosing from 2008. It outlines what's happening and certain things to look out for. Keep in mind that the use of a skimmer is a must.
Along other lines of carbon dosing, sugar and vinegar was others. In the early days people were trying to get the perfect combination of vsv (vodka, sugar, vinegar) to optimize nutrient export. I think in the end, it didn't have any greater impact and the choice of using vodka was preferred because it was distilled and was considered a pure form of carbon vurses the impurities that came in sugar and vinegar.
Either way, being careful is a chief concern because you can strip tour ysnk of oxygen and suffocate your tank inhabitants.
I would educate yourself before dumbing vodka in your tank.
Do you have a link to that article?Oh man. 50 ml in a 400l tank was a huge gamble. I'm glad it paid off. Reefcentral has a great article on vodka dosing from 2008. It outlines what's happening and certain things to look out for. Keep in mind that the use of a skimmer is a must.
Along other lines of carbon dosing, sugar and vinegar was others. In the early days people were trying to get the perfect combination of vsv (vodka, sugar, vinegar) to optimize nutrient export. I think in the end, it didn't have any greater impact and the choice of using vodka was preferred because it was distilled and was considered a pure form of carbon vurses the impurities that came in sugar and vinegar.
Either way, being careful is a chief concern because you can strip tour ysnk of oxygen and suffocate your tank inhabitants.
I would educate yourself before dumbing vodka in your tank.
Do you have a link to that article?
Do you know if it will help with cyano?
I have been able to get my ph up between 8 since I ran my skimmer lines outside. Should update that thread!
With my current tank, I tried really hard to stay away from dosing vodka, but with all these algae problems I decided to start and the minute i did, the tank turned the corner and started looking great. I slowly started cutting back my daily dosage to wean my tank off of it. At the peak of dosing my 300g (1100 L) it was 4 doses of 10ml a day (total of 40ml) now I'm down to 30ml a day and the tank looks really good. I upped my skimmer production to offset the less vodka and N and P are holding steady.Yes it was a real risk but i kinda had my fingers crossed and 50ml in 400l isnt really that much once its diluted in the water. But im happy i took the risk , it worked out great. And my tank is stable and my corals are loving the new vodka flavored water. And my algae is 99% gone.
I keep saying cyano but it's more like a brownish red thin hair algae. Its easy to vacuum out and can blow off the sand and rocks easily but its been driving me crazy as I have to vacuum daily. Its only growing on the new sand and crushed coral.
After reading the article it seems carbon dosing can lead to bacterial issues.
And it reccomends a very low dose to begin with. 1ml/25 gallons.
I know i have enough skimming. Running a curve 5 as well as eshopps 300 gallon rated skimmer. Both are working full time.
However my Nitrates haven't budged from 15-20 and phosphates have began to creep up around .2 now.
I do agree im not liking my PO4 being so high right now. Experienced a Nitrate OD and complete Phosphate depletion and tried to slowly bring the phosphates back up. Not sure of it was the colors on the salifert kit blending on me or if its like I have read that maybe my rock absorbed it and then bam I dosed when I shouldn't have or combination of both. But I am slowly trying to bring it back down.A bit rich on the PO4 side but I would SLOWLY dial up whatever extraction methods you are most comfortable in dialing.
Cannot stress enough that going in small increments -- regardless of the lever chosen -- is better. Our systems get into these positions gradually. Course changes should be equally slow.
Fine question. The best "natural" solution would be to add a few thousand gallons to your system volume. Or reduce nutrient input. The first is expensive and the latter is boring and has risks. An appropriately sized bag of Chemipure Elite is fairly practical. It is just GAC and some GFO. While both are manufactured, they are naturally available if that helps.I do agree im not liking my PO4 being so high right now. Experienced a Nitrate OD and complete Phosphate depletion and tried to slowly bring the phosphates back up. Not sure of it was the colors on the salifert kit blending on me or if its like I have read that maybe my rock absorbed it and then bam I dosed when I shouldn't have or combination of both. But I am slowly trying to bring it back down.
Everything been pretty stable for few months besides PO4 trying to creep a little everyonce in awhile as i think my wife is going a little crazy with reef roids sometimes.
Any natural solutions I can perform to try and get phosphates back down a little?
Noted and 10-4 was just looking at this yesterday when at LFS. Should i expect it to reduce both Nitrate and Phosphate or only Phosphate?Fine question. The best "natural" solution would be to add a few thousand gallons to your system volume. Or reduce nutrient input. The first is expensive and the latter is boring and has risks. An appropriately sized bag of Chemipure Elite is fairly practical. It is just GAC and some GFO. While both are manufactured, they are naturally available if that helps.
I totally get your point about natural solutions and I also strive in that direction. The practical side though leads me toward solutions that are easy to dial so I can make SLOW changes.
You nailed it. The rock and sand (aragonite) bind PO4 to a point where they saturate. Then anything else is released into the water and levels rise. This PO4 buffer is a good thing. It buys you some time when you are under feeding/dosing PO4.I have read that maybe my rock absorbed it and then bam I dosed when I shouldn't have or combination of both. But I am slowly trying to bring it back down.
This will reduce PO4. I am fine with your NO3 levels. But to reduce NO3 -- which does not bind -- is easy. If you want to lower it by 30% then do a 30% water change.Noted and 10-4 was just looking at this yesterday when at LFS. Should i expect it to reduce both Nitrate and Phosphate or only Phosphate?
Im OK with Nitrates sitting where they are at. I feel like my shrooms like the higher N.
Right on and thank you for clear feedback.You nailed it. The rock and sand (aragonite) bind PO4 to a point where they saturate. Then anything else is released into the water and levels rise. This PO4 buffer is a good thing. It buys you some time when you are under feeding/dosing PO4.
This will reduce PO4. I am fine with your NO3 levels. But to reduce NO3 -- which does not bind -- is easy. If you want to lower it by 30% then do a 30% water change.
Every reefer has their own preferred levers they push/pull to control nutrients. It is preference and comfort. I am heavy in/out. Socks, skimmer, refugium, WC.
I dial up/down with food input and refugium lighting hours just because I am comfortable that I can gradually make a shift when needed. Nobody gets hurt. No dinoflagellates again. Ever.
Instead of vodka, I use plain white vinegar. The "carbon" dosing feeds bacteria which multiply and are removed via skimming which brings down nitrates/phosphates. Instead of a single dose, a lot of us set up to add vinegar/vodka through the day. I mix 250ml white 5% vinegar to 5 gallons of RODI and pour into my ATO.
Cheers! Mark

