Can someone tell me what this "algae" is?

TD13 · Jan 23, 2016

What the H is this brown spider web crap!!!! I had it once when I was using egg crate as a frag rack, pulled the rack it went away.... NOW ITS BACK!!!! It's catching on my coral specifically my pink birds nest and killing the growth.... I'm constantly removing this stuff with a pipette from coral...

No3- 5-10
Po4 - 0
everything else where its supposed to be, no deaths in the tank that I'm aware of.

b3ja · Jan 23, 2016

Could be dino algae.

TD13 · Jan 23, 2016

@b3ja I had it before, and tried all the dino-be-gone stuff and it didn't touch it. I have also tried stuff for cyano, and no dice there either.

b3ja · Jan 23, 2016

I had a same problem before .. Try the h2o2 and stuff . Didnt work. Until i blackout my tank for 3 days . Ans reset the whoe system. Rid off the sand bed . Manual clean the rocks . And tank. Then after that they never come backs

Sabellafella · Jan 23, 2016

Man i have the same problem except its killing a bunch of real expensive frags . its dinos, not sure if yours is bad but mine is, its killing and poisoning my snails and also driving me nuts. Ive dippedmy egg crate racks in peroxide and still came back the next morning ,i guess imfollowing along

b3ja · Jan 23, 2016

5 month after . Things looks good now except the rightside of the glass . Too lazy to scrape it . Lol plesse forgive me

brandon429 · Jan 23, 2016

There is much to be said about physically ripping an invader out of the tank and refusing it with any repeated task. Not evaluating a battle as one off is key to making many tanks algae free imo says big links

Some tanks need a few rounds of help or a white led adjustment for the trial, and some need full sandbed cleaning to ever get an upper hand in my opinion

Sure it's risky to get in the depths of fuel and source and rip it out, but something has to change. Every tank invasion post is the same every decade 2001-present and the only polar opposite ones are the refusers who will scrub, siphon and wash off sternly anything that doesn't comply.

Dirty sand beds need as many full cleanings as it takes to be invader free by hand, not by chemical, and rip cleanings are documented. UV sterilizers grossly oversized can be bought online and evaluated for 30 days in many places, I hear. Obligate hitchhikers are ideal to burn out of the water, can't get back in until non quarantine again as we do.

My opinion on peroxide was the classic put some in tank mode needed a reversal

Use peroxide as the cellular cleanup after you did work for having let a little X become a lot, peroxide as the total mass remover indeed might not work one go. Make your strong peroxide dose be applied to a tank where you can't see the target, because you removed it all, then that mass of peroxide is acting on broken sparse non-communal cells vs insulating snot colonies as preventative

Some peroxide ideas from a resourceful team look at the glycerine work from Yen
http://reef2reef.com/threads/reef2reef-pest-algae-challenge-thread-hydrogen-peroxide.187042/

jeepsehawk · Jan 23, 2016

Been fighting it for month and half, peroxide treatment and 2 72 blackouts, still comes back. It is getting better but fight is still on. Those photos are exact crap I have(green/brown snot, dinoflagellates?). My tank is 2.5 months old. Right now I am putting double dose of peroxide in twice a day, will probably do another blackout in two weeks. Good luck. Oh, I have not lost anything, lps, two shrimp, 2 clowns and a couple of zoos in 24 gallon tank.
Brandon helped me on my first algae growth, rocks out and spray peroxide on them, never came back. His post above is hard to comprehend (too technical), read it twice and still confused on what he is implying. Hopefully he clarifies because his first advice worked wonders.

brandon429 · Jan 23, 2016

Ha! Yes brevity has left me at 12 I used to get low grades for writing too much besides the topic. That's why we collect mainly before and pics in that thread linked so people can skip the summaries and just see the work.

My main intent was instead of adding peroxide to the tank that has this invader, add peroxide to the tank after you have cleaned out the invader with hard work tank cleaning instead (to burn the leftovers you missed in cleaning)

The peroxide has less to act on when you have pre-removed the offender, then the peroxide has a better chance of stopping the grow back.

You have an invader that must use the water to cast itself about the tank. When you hand clean the growths off the glass, they come back onto the glass in a day or so from the other growth areas of the tank by traveling around the tank through water and sticking to the glass again. If peroxide isn't working, consider researching large UV sterilizers and use them the same way, after a tank cleaning. You don't have to use them always, just until you win. The peroxide may or may not work when dosed to an unclean tank, and I thought this was an additional option not posted here

Tahoe61 · Jan 23, 2016

Looks like Dino, but Dino typically displays bubble strands.

This is what I did for Dino

1. Raise pH with the use of kalkwasser.
2. Stopped all water changes ( wc only made it worse)
3. Took a turkey baster cleaned of all corals and rocks daily and sometimes twice a day. After an hour I cleaned all mechanical filtration.
4. Complete black out of 4 days ( sps dominated tank with clams all did fine)
5. Start with a short photoperiod, any appearance of bubbles or growth, lights went back out.
6. Stopped using any Amino Acid products ( I believe this promoted the initial outbreak)

It took roughly 3 weeks to beat it, but I dealt with Dino for a couple months before I got serious. It killed all my zoanthids. Dino is toxic to some corals and in high concentration fish.

Good Luck

Pete polyp · Jan 23, 2016

I have the same stuff and it's not dino. Hydrogen peroxide has no effect either. Uv sterilizer does diddly squat.

brandon429 · Jan 23, 2016

Pete, does it factor that you used them fully opposite of the way mentioned above

Pete polyp · Jan 23, 2016

How did I use them fully opposite?

brandon429 said:
Pete, does it factor that you used them fully opposite of the way mentioned above

brandon429 · Jan 23, 2016

I didn't see the tank pre clean or oversized UV combined with any other amplifiers in your challenge thread, redoing sinks in the tank etc

The ways we use it in the threads...it's usually pretty harmless to add some to a tank to see if the invader will die but if it doesn't, that doesn't mean there wasn't 3 or 4 change ups that show well in example threads. also fully agreed some invaders will not comply with peroxide at all, but at least a few alternates are worth considering past just adding to the tank with invader in full mass

brandon429 · Jan 23, 2016

I caught glimpses of the substrate here td13 and it looks lucky clean

If your invader is on the rocks and glass primarily it wouldn't be hard to guide your tank clean again. It would take work, but not hard for me to type out how to go about it online in my chair

Will add your after pics to the lot.

Triggreef · Jan 23, 2016

TD13 said:
@b3ja I had it before, and tried all the dino-be-gone stuff and it didn't touch it. I have also tried stuff for cyano, and no dice there either.

TD, how big is your tank and how long has it been set up for? Also how long have you been battling this issue?

Pete polyp · Jan 23, 2016

brandon429 said:
I didn't see the tank pre clean or oversized UV combined with any other amplifiers in your challenge thread, redoing sinks in the tank etc

The ways we use it in the threads...it's usually pretty harmless to add some to a tank to see if the invader will die but if it doesn't, that doesn't mean there wasn't 3 or 4 change ups that show well in example threads. also fully agreed some invaders will not comply with peroxide at all, but at least a few alternates are worth considering past just adding to the tank with invader in full mass

What are you talking about?