Can you spot the mistake

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um_fan5

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Let me start by saying...I’m very froogle! I’m always looking for a deal! So I started plumbing yesterday!
Can you spot the issue?

Sump tank is backwards so I was having issues plumbing the manifold!
Any ideas...may have to “Bite the bullet” get a new sump tank or live with a backwards sump :rolleyes:

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Is any plumbing glued already or can everything be reworked?
 
Edit: oh you haven't told us what the problem is. Is it that the tanks plumbing is opposite of the sump? Still not an issue, just more elbows. Thi k in the 3rd dimension and route the plumbing accordingly.

I would start with the drains, because they need to have the least amount of bends and turns. Then work your return with manifold.
 
Are you saying that the only way you can get a 2 bib manifold on the return is to have the sump backwards? What else concerns you.

It might me a little tight for something's but I highly doubt the only option is a backwards sump.
Having the sump “backwards” the overflow 1” pipe and the return 3/4” would intersect and I didn’t have sufficient clearance for the check valve and space for the manifold!
 
Cut out the wall behind the stand for some of the return plumbing to give you room, keep the sump facing the correct way.
 
After stepping back and drinking a few more beers... I actually got it plumbed!!
but I think I’m going to flip the manifold since the reactor and UV will be on the right side. Thoughts?

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I see a gate valve on what looks like the only drain line. Without having a 2nd for an emergency, I would be concerned that the restriction on the gate valve would cause future problems with overflowing the main display.

I would advise at least making it a Herbie drain system so that you can use the gate valve. Other wise removing the gate valve altogether would prevent future headaches and wet floors.
 
I was told that you have a gate valve and ball valve for your return.
 
So after staring at the plumbing and reading more and more, I'm having some reservation before I commit and glue everything.
So the tank is drilled and "plumbed" for a durso overflow...I have 2 options!
Option 1: Running as is with the durso drain
or
Option 2: Pull everything apart, drill for a herbie and start plumbing again.
Currently I'm not sure if the tank is tempered or not. If it is, the return would have to come from the back and would
push everything away from the wall...which I didn't want.
Thought from the guys running durso? Any issues you've had? Noise? As I would like to keep it as quiet as possible.
 
I am sorry I meant to say for your overflow, you use one gate valve and at least one ball valve, you adjust the gate valve to fine tune the overflow.
 
Check out Crystal Dynamic Aquarium Facebook and their site, there are a lot of photos of how they do their plumbing. that is what I will be doing on my 240 gallon tank. I will be using a Modular Marine Overflow with a Fiji Sump.
 

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