I once read a post in a diy dream chip thread that used water cooling copper tubes 2ft over the tank.
“Aren’t you worried about copper?”
“Aren’t you worried about copper?”
Cannot Figure out whats wrong with SPS
- Thread starter tomek77pl
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Ldballoon4
Community Member
ICP, let us know.
OP
OP
tomek77pl
Community Member
Hi guys, kept loosing sps so I did an ATI ICP-OES test and here are the results. Any recommendations on replenishing? and finding the Source of Tin? I'm using reef crystals salt which might be low in all of these.
Can lugols 2% solution be used to up iodine levels? Should I use a new salt mix? If yes here is what I will slowly do
Lugols 2%
Potassium Nitrate
10% water changes 2x a week
Remove more LR ( removed 14 LBs 3 weeks ago and marine pure and nitrate is still low)
Can lugols 2% solution be used to up iodine levels? Should I use a new salt mix? If yes here is what I will slowly do
Lugols 2%
Potassium Nitrate
10% water changes 2x a week
Remove more LR ( removed 14 LBs 3 weeks ago and marine pure and nitrate is still low)
madweazl
2500 Club Member
Only thing that really stands out is the tin but I'm not sure what levels are cause for concern. For what it's worth, my iodine (0), molybdenum (2.36), and potassium (378) didnt cause any noticeable negative affects for my SPS. To address the low levels (compared to Triton's recommended levels), I began doing weekly water changes (roughly 13%). Moly increased (15) closer to recommended levels but iodine remained 0. Last test was in November and I dont expect much has changed since but the SPS are growing well.
Dana Riddle
2500 Club Member
Water processed through a RO/DI unit could be aggressive enough to dissolve copper pipe since the calcium saturation point is not any where near being met. But the contact time of water with the pipe would have to be of a prolonged period. As for the Acro photos, it looks like the one with star-shaped tips is due to some sort of endosymbiont such as gall crabs. All of this is just a guess.
Copper is not going to be an issue in a tank with aragonite or a skimmer. The araonite will quickly bond copper out of the system. It will also attach to organics, become benign and get skimmed out. There is a slim to no chance that copper is your issue, and Slim just walked out of the door.
Low nitrate is not an issue if bacteria is keeping it low - anoxic bacteria in the sandbed or rocks. The ecosystem will not drive it down to zero and there is always enough to keep the ecosystem fed. This is a red herring, unless you are dosing organic carbon, NoPOX, etc. in which case it can be an issue. As you can see in the ICP, you have enough Nitrate... it is just hard to test with our hobby-grade kits.
I am also with the "perfect storm" theory.
Lugols is not kind of iodine that you need to add. This is very complicated and Dr. Holmes-Farley has a few articles that are very deep on the subject, but Iodide (SeaChem sells some) is what our tank inhabitants use more freely.
Tin usually comes from the salt mix, but RC is not a tin high on salt like some others. I would change more water... this should get the tin down, strontium, mylb and potassium up. Low stron, mylb and potassium are products of two-part of kalk tanks that do not add them directly or change enough water - this is why heavy stony tanks use CaRx which will help replenish all of these with the calcium and alk. If you are worried about the salt, I can assure you that normal IO does not have a tin issue at my house.
Low nitrate is not an issue if bacteria is keeping it low - anoxic bacteria in the sandbed or rocks. The ecosystem will not drive it down to zero and there is always enough to keep the ecosystem fed. This is a red herring, unless you are dosing organic carbon, NoPOX, etc. in which case it can be an issue. As you can see in the ICP, you have enough Nitrate... it is just hard to test with our hobby-grade kits.
I am also with the "perfect storm" theory.
Lugols is not kind of iodine that you need to add. This is very complicated and Dr. Holmes-Farley has a few articles that are very deep on the subject, but Iodide (SeaChem sells some) is what our tank inhabitants use more freely.
Tin usually comes from the salt mix, but RC is not a tin high on salt like some others. I would change more water... this should get the tin down, strontium, mylb and potassium up. Low stron, mylb and potassium are products of two-part of kalk tanks that do not add them directly or change enough water - this is why heavy stony tanks use CaRx which will help replenish all of these with the calcium and alk. If you are worried about the salt, I can assure you that normal IO does not have a tin issue at my house.
