Did a check with salifert and colombo no3 test kit. Bought new ones 2 days ago, next week inwill send a icp to triton. It is looking clean now Because i just cleaned my windows and it whas a morning shot m8 everyday my windows are green in the evening just cleaned them before lights gone out for the night..
Cant get rid of no3...
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Did a check with salifert and colombo no3 test kit. Bought new ones 2 days ago, next week inwill send a icp to triton. It is looking clean now Because i just cleaned my windows and it whas a morning shot m8 everyday my windows are green in the evening just cleaned them before lights gone out for the night..
mcarroll
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Watching the windows "green up" is my historical method of assessing nutrients...it's pretty reliable! If the walls get green too quick, just listen to what your tank is telling you. Let them "green out" for a week, or even a few weeks. Things always seem to be better when I clean up after that. It's such an easy cleanup compared to all other algae too!!!
It's a bit outside the scope of this discussion, but you can also look at the green windows as a sife-effect of too much light hitting the glass. A factor that can be controlled with LED's.....my tank that has a DIY LED system doesn't grow much algae on the glass because there's very little light hitting the glass. I can't remember the last time I scraped. My other tank (same water/same system) doesn't grow all that much algae on the glass, but it's still obvious and regrowth is always faster there.
P.S. The Hanna 736 has accuracy of +/- 5 ppb / 5% of reading. Phosphate of .012 ppm (minus 5 ppb) is probably too low and 0.43 ppm (plus 5 ppb) is close to what I was suggesting. I would simply get out of range of too low by lettig PO4 come up by at least 1 ppm.
I have the the 120 tir lens on the radions the light spreads more then with the 90 on them but i dont thinks thats the problem... I will let the windows green up for a few days, i also can add some dupla/produbio biodigist to my tank. I am aware about the thing u said of hanna, but when the temp is lower then 25c it was different right ? Before bed time i will correct po4 to 0,05 and test again tomorrow if the dosing was correct [emoji2] also im am going to add a little bit more pellets to the reactor to watch the effect
mcarroll
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12 inches?
...with 120º lenses, this gives you a theoretical coverage diameter of about 40 inches (100 cm) per puck. Of course it's not an even 40"...it's more like these:
Just FYI....I would not characterize the 120º lenses as a problem either.
...with 120º lenses, this gives you a theoretical coverage diameter of about 40 inches (100 cm) per puck. Of course it's not an even 40"...it's more like these:
Just FYI....I would not characterize the 120º lenses as a problem either.
Randy Holmes-Farley
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Except by denitrification. That process does not require substantial phosphate.
Thank for ur reply Randy ! Can u make ur self clear about that ? I dont't understand what u are saying m8 ?..... My Englisch is not that well[emoji85]
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The conversion of nitrate into N2 in low O2 regions does not consume phosphate (except in small amounts to keep the cells alive, and more if they are growing):
Nitrate in the Reef Aquarium - REEFEDITION
https://www.reef2reef.com/blog/nitrate-in-the-reef-aquarium
from it:
Deep Sand Beds
Deep sand beds can develop low oxygen regions where nitrate is used by bacteria. They use it to metabolize organics that randomly diffuse into the sand from the water column. When the oxygen gets depleted in the sand, the bacteria can still oxidize the organics available by using nitrate instead of O2. In this situation, nitrate acts as an electron acceptor (e.g., an oxygen source) in place of oxygen (O2). The end result is that nitrate is converted into N2, and the N2 blows off of the tank to the atmosphere. The reactions that take place can be complex.22 In oxygen-containing environments, the reaction looks very similar to that shown above for plankton (ignoring phosphorus here):
organic + 175 O2 → 122 CO2 + 16 NO3– + 16 H+ + 138 H2O
where organic stands for a typical organic material ((CH2O)80(CH2)42(NH3)16) that is being metabolized. In the absence of O2, and taking the nitrogen species completely to N2 (which may happen in several reaction steps), we have the following overall reaction:
organic + 124 NO3– + 124 H+ → 122 CO2 + 70 N2 + 208 H2O
It can be seen that the process above produces alkalinity (by consuming H+). In fact, it is the exact same amount of alkalinity that was depleted when the nitrate was originally formed from foods, so the net effect of the nitrogen cycle on alkalinity is zeroed out.
In many aquaria, the process takes place to an extent sufficient by itself to keep nitrate at levels below 0.5 ppm. In others, it has not been adequate. Success may depend on the size of the bed, its composition (sand type, particle size distribution, depth, and life forms in it), and the demands put on it in terms of nitrate processing. It is rarely discussed by aquarists, but organics are critical for this process as well, and some aquaria may have more or less organic matter in the water (due to use of things like skimming or granular activated carbon) and this, in turn, can impact the nitrate conversion capability of a sand bed.
This process also happens in the pores of live rock, and in a variety of other environments in a reef aquarium.
Nitrate in the Reef Aquarium - REEFEDITION
https://www.reef2reef.com/blog/nitrate-in-the-reef-aquarium
from it:
Deep Sand Beds
Deep sand beds can develop low oxygen regions where nitrate is used by bacteria. They use it to metabolize organics that randomly diffuse into the sand from the water column. When the oxygen gets depleted in the sand, the bacteria can still oxidize the organics available by using nitrate instead of O2. In this situation, nitrate acts as an electron acceptor (e.g., an oxygen source) in place of oxygen (O2). The end result is that nitrate is converted into N2, and the N2 blows off of the tank to the atmosphere. The reactions that take place can be complex.22 In oxygen-containing environments, the reaction looks very similar to that shown above for plankton (ignoring phosphorus here):
organic + 175 O2 → 122 CO2 + 16 NO3– + 16 H+ + 138 H2O
where organic stands for a typical organic material ((CH2O)80(CH2)42(NH3)16) that is being metabolized. In the absence of O2, and taking the nitrogen species completely to N2 (which may happen in several reaction steps), we have the following overall reaction:
organic + 124 NO3– + 124 H+ → 122 CO2 + 70 N2 + 208 H2O
It can be seen that the process above produces alkalinity (by consuming H+). In fact, it is the exact same amount of alkalinity that was depleted when the nitrate was originally formed from foods, so the net effect of the nitrogen cycle on alkalinity is zeroed out.
In many aquaria, the process takes place to an extent sufficient by itself to keep nitrate at levels below 0.5 ppm. In others, it has not been adequate. Success may depend on the size of the bed, its composition (sand type, particle size distribution, depth, and life forms in it), and the demands put on it in terms of nitrate processing. It is rarely discussed by aquarists, but organics are critical for this process as well, and some aquaria may have more or less organic matter in the water (due to use of things like skimming or granular activated carbon) and this, in turn, can impact the nitrate conversion capability of a sand bed.
This process also happens in the pores of live rock, and in a variety of other environments in a reef aquarium.
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I assume you meant 0.05ppm?
missing a tenth place again. 0.0433ppm with +5ppb
Thanks for the text ! But i am running triton and they advise not running a dsb or do a wc, besides that in dont have any room for a dsb in my sump [emoji17] So wat do u recomend to lower no3 ?
I would really like to try vinegar and suger but i dont know how to mix. At the moment i dont dose vsv any more because i whas getting a little cyano in the corner and from what i understand is that wodka feeds cyano and a mix of vinegar and sugar does not?? Here is a picture it was clean in the morning, when i get back home it is like this
jason2459
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Are you harvesting algae in some way? I believe Triton recommends growing out multiple types of macro algae. That would help uptake some nitrates.
If you want to dose a carbon source why not just straight vinegar?
If you want to dose a carbon source why not just straight vinegar?
12 inches?
...with 120º lenses, this gives you a theoretical coverage diameter of about 40 inches (100 cm) per puck. Of course it's not an even 40"...it's more like these:
Just FYI....I would not characterize the 120º lenses as a problem either.
Then whe agrea ! [emoji2]
I thought i diddnt see the algea grow but they are growing nice, i made a mistake first i had them in a small chamber and now in a big one and it is almost full now [emoji108] i have 3 types of algea cheato caulerpa and the one with grapes on it dont know the englisch name off it. dont know why only vinegar? What are de benefits of dosing only V ? Do u have experience with that ?
mcarroll
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Sounds like you're on track! Glad the algae is growing – makes the whole situation make sense.
Vinegar just seems to be less problematic (more safe) in general.
I'm not convinced there's a tremendous difference between them in terms of nitrogen reduction.
It's hard to imagine a benefit of putting sucrose (i.e. fructose+glucose) in the tank. Carbon dosing in general seems stressful – at least to stony corals (i.e. burnt tips), but studies done on dosing some (unconventional) sugars led not just to coral stress, but mortality. (Don't have the link handy, but pretty sure I've posted it before.)
In a nutshell, vinegar works, so I guess I don't see the point of the rest.
Vinegar just seems to be less problematic (more safe) in general.
I'm not convinced there's a tremendous difference between them in terms of nitrogen reduction.
It's hard to imagine a benefit of putting sucrose (i.e. fructose+glucose) in the tank. Carbon dosing in general seems stressful – at least to stony corals (i.e. burnt tips), but studies done on dosing some (unconventional) sugars led not just to coral stress, but mortality. (Don't have the link handy, but pretty sure I've posted it before.)
In a nutshell, vinegar works, so I guess I don't see the point of the rest.
Sounds like you're on track! Glad the algae is growing – makes the whole situation make sense.
Vinegar just seems to be less problematic (more safe) in general.
I'm not convinced there's a tremendous difference between them in terms of nitrogen reduction.
It's hard to imagine a benefit of putting sucrose (i.e. fructose+glucose) in the tank. Carbon dosing in general seems stressful – at least to stony corals (i.e. burnt tips), but studies done on dosing some (unconventional) sugars led not just to coral stress, but mortality. (Don't have the link handy, but pretty sure I've posted it before.)
In a nutshell, vinegar works, so I guess I don't see the point of the rest.
Thanks man ! Il keep checking the water parameters everyday till it's perfect in my opinion [emoji85] hope the algea will be growing good ! Today i add some new kind of grape algea see in the picture maybe it will be grow fast [emoji23][emoji2]
Gonna Google for some good vinegar threats on the internet and maybe i will use that in my tank. Yesterday it put some more biopellets in my reactor maybe he will finally kick in!
Whats ur opinion of adding some extra bacterias to the tank ? I am using dupla/produbio 1 week ago i had also dropped a capsule to the tank is it to soon to add another one ?
mcarroll
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Theoretically you're already carbon dosing with the pellets...I would leave it at that since you've just added more pellets. Leave vinegar (and the rest) for later, if needed. Let the pellets work.
Dosing bacteria into the pellet reactor might be argued for to speed things up, but don't feel obligated – there's no reason it shouldn't happen on its own.
Dosing bacteria into the pellet reactor might be argued for to speed things up, but don't feel obligated – there's no reason it shouldn't happen on its own.
