Can't keep SPS

[Smite]

First 2 times I did coral rx and Bayer dip. This last time I just threw it in the tank...

What is your acclimation process? Run us through you steps, including when you were dipping. *I just want to make sure you aren't starting with stressed frags.

Are you buying these frags from local reefers or maricultured pieces from the LFS?

You will regret not dipping. Stick to bayers and personally I'd suggest ditching the coral rx. I've never had a coral (sps specifically) stress from bayer's dips but I have stressed sps early on with coral rx.

Your issue could be lighting but if there are no pests, your flow is VERY strong and you have stable parameters I think you should at least be having some success with lower light sps like montipora.

Why are you nutrients rising?

EDIT: Just to be more specific you said you think your issue is lack of phosphate but state your phosphate is .05-.1 which is fine.

 

[qhduong]

What is your acclimation process? Run us through you steps, including when you were dipping. *I just want to make sure you aren't starting with stressed frags.

Are you buying these frags from local reefers or maricultured pieces from the LFS?

You will regret not dipping. Stick to bayers and personally I'd suggest ditching the coral rx. I've never had a coral (sps specifically) stress from bayer's dips but I have stressed sps early on with coral rx.

Your issue could be lighting but if there are no pests, your flow is VERY strong and you have stable parameters I think you should at least be having some success with lower light sps like montipora.

Why are you nutrients rising?

EDIT: Just to be more specific you said you think your issue is lack of phosphate but state your phosphate is .05-.1 which is fine.

I float for 30 mins, dip in Bayer for a few minutes, rinse, then stick on rocks. I get them locally from other reefers
First time I bought from Battlecorals.

I have 2 gyres 2k, blasting, but not directly on the frags.

I dose neophos and neonitro when I noticed sometime my Phos and nitrates drop to 0 depending on whe and I test. Now they are no longer 0s.

 

[Smite]

I float for 30 mins, dip in Bayer for a few minutes, rinse, then stick on rocks. I get them locally from other reefers
First time I bought from Battlecorals.

I have 2 gyres 2k, blasting, but not directly on the frags.

I dose neophos and neonitro when I noticed sometime my Phos and nitrates drop to 0 depending on whe and I test. Now they are no longer 0s.

Okay, so unless you happen to have the exact parameters as the tank you bought coral from you are over looking a very critical step, which is actually acclimating the frag.

Best way to do it is a drip line. I use a gallon water jug with the top cut off. I use my mag cleaner to hold it in place in my sump so it temp acclimates at the same time.

Take the frag and its water
Put it in the jug/container
I put it in my sump and hold it in place with my mag cleaner. I keep the bottom of the jug about 2 inches under the sump water line. This is to hold and match temp
I take my drip line and siphon from my display and drip into the jug. This is a slow process if bought local and my parameters vary from existing parameters but under an hour. If shipped, I do a faster drip but still drip! Maybe 30 minutes, these aren't fish so don't worry about ammonia.
I let the jug fill up double the amount of water the frag came in, I dump half out and re drip. I repeat this 2x. Then I test alkalinity. Once it basically matches my display I know I've acclimated the frag properly.

THEN i move on to the dip.

I leave the frag in the disposable gallon just I acclimated in. I pour enough water out to where I can reach the frag with a gloved hand easily, so 3" of water.

I mix bayers with a disposable plastic fork/spoon until I can't really see the frag any more. I let it sit and stir occasionally for 8-10 minutes.

While waiting I cut the top off another gallon water jug. I fill this with water from my display. This will be my rinse jug.

Frag is done after 8-10 minutes. I cut (no matter how expensive) the frag from the plug! I dont want AEFW eggs. I swish in the bayers aggressively with a gloved (disposable mechanics) hand to remove any stunned pests. I think place in the rinse jug.

There i will glue it to a small rock rubble. So i can easily move it if its not happy with placement in the display later on.

Before you start acclimation and drip be sure to have 2 gallons of fresh salt on hand to replace the amount you took from your system. once or twice wont matter but over time you'll drop your salinity. A good habit is to turn your ato off during this proccess too, so its not topping off as your dripping.


You are more than likely stressing your acros from the get go. Not 100% sure this is your issue, but it's probably contributing to it. If you think about it, we spend all this time to avoid spikes an changes in alk, temp and salinity so why wouldn't a float and drop stress your acropora right off the bat?

 

[qhduong]

I added these 2 pieces last Saturday (so 1 week now). I'm seeing greying around the setosa's edge, and slight white at the tip of the green piece. Is it growth or something bad?

 

[Strad12]

Looks more like tissue necrosis than growth to me.

Have you ever considered sending in an ICP test? You’ll get a detailed readout of almost every element level in your tank, and that might help you identify what is stressing your corals. Fauna Marin is having a sale on their ICP test kits, which makes it quite economical to get your water checked. The web address is icp1999.com

I said it before, but pH is very important for SPS health and growth, and your corals will be much healthier if you keep it at 8.3

 

[metzer]

Look at the PAR map on RedSea website for the PAR pentation levels by depth. https://www.redseafish.com/hardware/lighting/

SPS need to be higher up in a tank to get 300 PAR.

 

[qhduong]

Sorry I haven't done icp before. I can order a test.

I switched to G5 XR15, 2 weeks ago. Acclimating them to 60% over 2 weeks from 50%.

 

[qhduong]

Will test PH later today...

 

[RoTtEn FinZ]

I think your tank is still young and get some established live rocks from your local reefers or your buddies,if you can,and let it seeds your dry rock for while,it helps lot.At a mean time just keep your parameter stable and be patience,things will come around.

 

[driftin]

Have you checked your RODI filters and TDS after each stage? That got me a couple months ago - had STN on several pieces and when I checked, my DI resin was old and I had measurable TDS coming out of my last stage. Replaced the resin, did several large water changes, and things turned around again.

 

[qhduong]

Have you checked your RODI filters and TDS after each stage? That got me a couple months ago - had STN on several pieces and when I checked, my DI resin was old and I had measurable TDS coming out of my last stage. Replaced the resin, did several large water changes, and things turned around again.

I only check the input and output, all says 0. I'll replace filters anyways but have a batch of water mixed already.

I also tested pH this morning, 8.2. Will test later tonight and see if there's a swing.

 

[IslandLifeReef]

Rent that PAR meter and map out your tank. I would adjust your lights until you get a PAR reading of around 100-200 on the sand bed and a reading of 450-500 at the highest point you plan to place coral. You can then map out the rest of your tank and place your coral accordingly.

An ICP test is also a good idea. It would rule out any containment’s in your tank. I tested my water at the same time that I took the sample for my ICP test so that I could compare the results and see if I had any issues with my home tests. Fortunately, my ICP test came back as good and my home tests were very close to the results of my ICP test which gave me confidence in my testing methods and results.

 

[qhduong]

I will look at getting a par meter.

I also spoke with a local reefer and was suggested to increase intensity and duration of my lights. I've been acclimating them up slowly, and looks like the setosa is already making a come back. The edges are coloring back up. I can't tell whether the other green coral is getting better or not. Does anyone know the ID of that coral by the way?

 

[IslandLifeReef]

I will look at getting a par meter.

I also spoke with a local reefer and was suggested to increase intensity and duration of my lights. I've been acclimating them up slowly, and looks like the setosa is already making a come back. The edges are coloring back up. I can't tell whether the other green coral is getting better or not. Does anyone know the ID of that coral by the way?

That’s good. Glad it looks like the Setosa is getting better.

Bulk Reef Supply rents PAR meter for around $50 for a week. IMO, that beats trial and error guessing if my coral placement will provide to little, to much, or the right amount of light. That rental cost will probably save you money in the long run.

 

[qhduong]

That’s good. Glad it looks like the Setosa is getting better.

Bulk Reef Supply rents PAR meter for around $50 for a week. IMO, that beats trial and error guessing if my coral placement will provide to little, to much, or the right amount of light. That rental cost will probably save you money in the long run.

Makes sense! I'll see if one is available locally first. But my other question is, does low light actually cause lightening and stn that I'm experiencing?

 

[NatureHold]

While I appreciate the "Mature Tank" theory, I can also say from personal success that it is somewhat misleading. I think the important part of having a mature tank, is that it is essentially a testament to your husbandry skills. Mature tank= proven long term proper care. You've learned the ins and outs of your tank, what the normal fluctuations are, and how to correct any deviation from the norm.....

If you are diligent from day one, monitor closely (and frequently) enough, and have the time to baby the tank, you can be successful without having a "mature tank". My tank is only going on 3 months old and the SPS in my tank are growing well (with the exception of a Monti that I had under too much light and is still recovering). But I have a trident that tests 4 times a day, and I verify those tests with Hanna checkers. I probably over test my tank, if there is such a thing...

This post isn't to toot my own horn or anything but fwiw, in my honest opinion SPS can be kept in a "newish" tank if the tank keeper is willing to put in the time to monitor and invest in quality equipment up front.

 

[AZMSGT]

This is another vote for getting an ICP test. You could have metal in the tank. That will kill SPS for sure.

 

[qhduong]

I ordered the Fauna Marin ICP kit, will send it in when it gets here.

 

[IslandLifeReef]

Makes sense! I'll see if one is available locally first. But my other question is, does low light actually cause lightening and stn that I'm experiencing?

In my experience, yes. If there isn’t enough light, the coral get weak and starve. Weakness could make them more susceptible to RTN/STN. It can also cause stress, which can result in bleaching as a last ditch effort by the coral to survive. I experienced bleaching on my Setosa. When my LFS told me that my light was set too low, I raised it to their recommended level over three weeks and the Setosa came back quickly. The light was all I changed. Since measuring my PAR and getting to the levels I mentioned earlier, I have been able to successfully keep SPS.

 

[AZMSGT]

I ordered the Fauna Marin ICP kit, will send it in when it gets here.

Just so you know, nearly all new tanks will show Tin in the water. don't freak out over it. this is totally normal. Just keep up with regular water changes and it will clear up. The tin comes from the manufacturing process of the glass and other components leaching.