Centre Pampideux

[rpkneumann]

After my first tank burnt and crashed after 4 years I was going to quit.
That lasted about 2 weeks then my son said I need to continue reefing. He found and old school tank for a hand full of dollars.
When we went to pick it up I found this in a chicken coup and fell in love with it:

-Oceanic 2005 build dual overflow 150 gallon tank
- Trigger systems sump crys36s
- stable not worth much
- hacked apart plumbing
- ton of dirt and dried calcium
We loaded it on the truck and off we went
First unloading the nearly 600 lbs tank was an adventure.
I decided to plan a build up but first give it a clean.
Here are some before and after pictures

 

[Johnd651]

Nice. Is that a bottom divider in the tank?

 

[rpkneumann]

Nice. Is that a bottom divider in the tank?

Yes it has a slit on the bottom so water can flow. It’s very thick and probably was done for additional support. Same with the plate on the top. The bracket sits on top of it.

 

[Gumbies R Us]

Following along!

 

[rpkneumann]

This is going to be a slow process.
Before I even cleaned the tank i did a lot of research and designed a new stand. The old one looked sturdy but somebody had hacked the supporting 2x4 in half to accommodate the plumbing. Didn't feel safe about that.
Next ...Make room in garage, buy wood, cut wood, build stand.

Not only did i use free tinkercad for the design but also started a master spreadsheet for all the components i would love to have.

-Plumbing
-Pumps (tank has two overflows, rated at 660GPH each. Only two holes drilled in each. No room for another one. I want two drains and two separate returns. (a little bit of failsafe)
- Rock/Sand
- Lights
- ATO
- Maintenance
I did own a BioCube before. Was happy about it and had some success. Its still around ....perhaps i develop more plans for that in the future.
The spreadsheet i added is "work in progress", but i did most of the research. Spend about 3 weeks on the net reading up all opinions watched a hundred youtubes and trying to not break my fixed income. Whats amazing is how this hobby changed in only a few years.
Would be nice to have the best equipment. But good enough works for me.
I'll attach the spreadsheet. Has a few tabs and is not sorted optimal. A living document.
Here are some design screenshots for the stand. It was fun researching how much load wood can actually take. Big difference between vertical and horizontal. Read up on some of the information sources I found:

Wood
Woodworking Handtools Essential
Plumbing:
Dimensions, Tube Max Flow Rates: ....
PVC Reference
Free plumbing design software, not to scale, but it creates parts list and help visualize what you planning . asample attached
DIY plumbing Design
Flow Rate Calculators (Head Loss)
PowerZone Friction loss Calculator
Pumps:
Nearly all manufactures have their pump performance charts expressing how many GPH or LPH they deliver at what hight. To determine pump size its as easy as looking for your parameters and adding then some.....
Some of the info.
The spreadsheet is like a scratchbook.

Any suggestions?

 

[rpkneumann]

Just picked up a great deal on some open box AP700.
A good starting point. Planning to keep mostly fish and a few softies and LPS.
Re-did my plumbing.
I think I'm going to stick with the original dual Megaflow. It looks like two Durso. No tank drilling, no lines over the back.

The bigger change is not wanting to use socks. There a several Filter Rollers which fit into my crystal36s sump. (on paper ). We'll see when i get there.
It made sense to combine the two drains into one feeding a Filter Roller.

Its coming long .....

Stand (wip) . Decided to add 1" feet to get the skirt of the ground.

New plumbing plan: (sorry for the messy paper scribble, but it works for me.

 

[rpkneumann]

Some time has gone by. The stand is nearly ready for paint. Sanded the first time after having put a ton of wood putty in crevices
Some places needed an additional layer of putty. Wet towel to get the worst of the dust off. Now drying and tomorrow will be primer day.

Then sand again.....

My plumbing plan continues to change as I mull about options. I received a feedback that the original Aqueon Overflow drains (Durso) are actually very quiet but then .... many opinions floating around.

Now I'm thinking of throwing out the existing overflows, plug the holes and drill new holes in the back wall for a Fiji or Eshopps low profile External Overflow Box. (1200 GPH). Same capacity as the old overflows but a lot less space taken. Another positive thing is that plumbing would be a lot easier.
Then i can install a Bean Animal drain and end the noise discussion.

I have still time to decide, But its coming closer .
Any feedback from followers in this thread?

 

[rpkneumann]

Finally done with the base. Inside white. Outside light grey. Doors hung with French cleat hangers.

 

[rpkneumann]

Time for n update.
The stand is finished and it came out pretty good for my first one.

Started to tackle the DT. Problems or better minor issues arose which i tried to analyze and find solutions for in
several others threads:
First is discovered that the 14" top brace was nearly blind with calcium having etched itself into the glass deep You can read the discussion here:

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/frustration-can%E2%80%99t-get-calcified-glass-clean.1055627/


I tried for a couple fo weeks any suggested method to no avail. That led to the decision that the brace needs to go and be replaced with an alternative brace. More on that later in the build.

Then i was trying to identify a strange separator on the bottom inside of the tank :

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/i...g-oceanic-tank-48x24x39.1054145/post-12544467
Also needed to go. It actually wasn't glass, it was 3/4 inch thick 5 inch wide acrylic.

Then i removed the inside Overflows:
Never knew how hard it was reaching with a 22 inch arm into a 30" deep empty tank.
We turned it on its side.

Overflows gone:

This is when i noticed more calcium deposits where the overflows were. As you can see I had drilled already the tank to support my new overflow and the returns. Since the overflow side (which i thought would be the best viewing side), was going to be the front side of the tank) was now ruined with ugly calcite deposit top to bottom right in the viewing area.

And again no legal chemical could get rid of them.
The decision was to change sides for the new `1200 GPH Modular MArine overflow
I had bought this on a blemish-sale, as an item with a single small defect size of a dime max.
Its non functional and hidden between weir and overflow box, so nobody can see it.

Well after long nights of thinking, i decided to move it to the other side so i can have a good front window. That also means i had to redrill the returns.

There were moments when I considered to start over with a new glass tank. But 120- 150 ga tanks go for $1,400+ if you want decent glass and quality. If you buy a top brand you start at $1,900. easily reach $2,600 for the top glass and a few holes drilled.
I'm fine with Old Faithful.
The old overflow holes on the bottom of the tank and the drilling mistakes will be cover with a pieces of glass. You'll see that later in the process.

Lesson learned, check out the complete tank with flash lights and side views to determine what is a good side to present and where to drill if you need to drill. AND double check drill location multiple times.

When i removed the inside overflows i noticed several cracks in the top trim, one corner was completely open. Since i decided to replace the brace anyhow the trim had to go to. After reading many many forums and old school tank builder comments I cam to the conclusion that the top trim only has no functional value for the tank. The brace is what keeps the tank from bowing. That's important.
Btw, it came off very easy only using a box cutter.
I had asked several trim manufacturers if they build new trim, all of them declined saying its beyond their todays design specifications ( to big, to old a shape tank) . Well, I'll go rimless with a solid brace.

You can follow the discussion on the following thread which led to my decision to ditch the trim but make sure i have a great brace:

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/center-glass-brace-replace-or-not.1057192/

I'll probably miss the trim for holding the sacreens (2 times 24x24)

Today, i drill my last new holes. and started scraping silicon. Since the old overflows were stuck deep in the bottom silicon seal and left a hole there and the side seals had some damage too I decided: reseal the tank.
Might as well learn everything .....

That requires taking all off the old silicon. Hahaha. Easy, yes? Try it.

Its amazing the amount of razor blade like tools i go through having just done the top trim today.

By the way, all of the panels have a great bevel except the top. Some sanding makes it smooth but not beveld.

Next few days, I will continue to work on the silicon.
Next update after I sealed the seams and closed all the extra holes.
The trim also left a small calcite band on the glass. Will have to use some polishing on hat.

BTW, its 90 inside the garage. 97 outside until 2 pm. Then the sun hits my garage door and i have to close shop.

 

[rpkneumann]

Forgot a minor detail.
Also trying to save my old reef rock.
I put the lot into a brute added 10:1 mixture of water/ Clorox and a small pump. Closed the lid and let it sit.
It's been percolating for the last 7 days. i think it's done.
I'll take the rocks out of the bath ,rinse it off and let it dry in the good old Texas sun. All of the chlorine will evaporate fast.
That will get rid of all the biomass daring to think of coming back in Old faithful ....
Yes, the rock is back being dry rock, but i didn't have to buy 40 lbs of rock.

 

[rpkneumann]

Ok, whoever says resealing a tank is easy must have some special talent. Me and silicon just simply don't get along.
My tank is 29" tall.
Trying to reseal with the tank laying on its side was great idea for 3 out 4 bottom seams. Not being able to tape good on a ceiling and with the seam being up was an acrobatic exercise for a 340 lbs person with short arms.

The ones being "up" ended up dropping the silicon bead while I applied it. Trying to "rescue" the droppings with my fingers (used soapy water) messed them up, they simply cured very rapidly.
Well , after curing, i took them off again.
Put the tank on floor right side up and redo the 2 seams . Easy? Well.
Scraping the silicon off the second time was actually much easier now that i knew what I was doing.
Taping was a nightmare. My arms are simply to short for a 29" high tank. Try picturing me dangling over the side of the tank trying to fix the tape. fFinally got it on, applied the silicon (with little to much flow) and did the finger flattening. Worked fine. Looked all good.

Then i started working on my other wholes. Remember i made the tank to be a swiss cheese by drilling holes into the "wrong side" because one of the large sides has terrible calcite stains i didn't discover until i removed the old overflow.
Well half way through filling holes with the plugs from the drilling exercise and the bottom ones with simple glass plates, i remembered that i needed to pull off the tape from the seams.
Problem was, it started to cure very quickly. Texas heat, i guess.
Well, kind of worked but the excess silicon stuck to the seam and started pulling it off when i removed the tape.
Lesson learned. Pull the tape right after you applied the silicon.
It will stick to the tape and cure very fast.

I believe the seams are fine and i can remove the excess silicon easily. But this process was not easy for me.
PA!!!, 20 min to reseal a tank!
Not for me who never worked with silicon before and will not ever work with it again.

I also starting to find the parts i need to build my center brace replacement.
I will use two 2" wallmount-glass clamps (for 1/2" thick glass) and a 2" x 25" x 1/4" aluminium flat bar.
Total cost about $20.

Anybody have any experience with saltwater resistant paint which sticks to metal?

- Rust-oleum Heat paint? ~ $12/spray can
- Rust-oleum Engine Enamel? ~ $10/spray can
- POR-15 Top Coat-direct to metal? ~ $32/spray can

​

 

[rpkneumann]

Did Water Test for 2 days.
Everything looks ok. No bubbles, no trickles. all water tight.

Here is the new brace ready for powder coating. The silver screws are just temporary. I have black alloy screws for final assembly.
Powder Coating Shop is busy and I need wait a couple of weeks. Can still use it in the meantime.

Painting time.
I decided on Krylon Fusion black, matt.
3 1/2 cans later, about 8 coatings, it's finally light-tight.
This stuff is super fast, per the can instructions you can apply a new coat after 1 to 2 minutes.
Worked great.
The garage door was open when i sprayed.

Next will be cleaning it and moving it onto the stand for dry fitting the plumbing.
External Overflow, Sump, Compact Rollermat, 2 return Pumps, GFO & Carbon Media canisters and if it arrives in time a TMC Vecton Titan 850 UV sterilizer. Lots todo ... and the garage doesn't get any cooler, Texas summer is here and i'm looking at temperatures in the garage about 90 to 95 with fans and one small water spray fan. My shirt is light grey and gained 2 pounds of sweat in this painting exercise ;-)

This 3M 6000 mask is great. Affordable ($17 @ AMZ), comfortable, easy to breath with, comes with 6001 filters. (Organic vapors). Couldn't smell the paint at all.

3M Half Facepiece Reusable Respirator 6300​

(Amazon)
Home Depot, Lowes has them too.

 

[rpkneumann]

Ready for plumbing ....
First I need some hands to move equipment.

Added a vinyl strip on top, Thought it frames the tank nicely and hides the old calcified waterline.
Should I do the vertical corners too?

Will install some lights inside the cabinet first. Should help with the plumbing.

 

[rpkneumann]

Mo

ved for dry plumbing, My wife's reaction...WoW bigger than she thought

 

[rpkneumann]

Plumbing in progress
Starting with the drains first. Required fitting my flees roller (Rollermat Compact 1) into the sump. Water level in the sump is 9 1/2 inches. The roolermat’s max water level is about 1/2 above case bottom. Cut a slot into the sump which holds the mounting bracket That moved it up in height more than I originally thought. I needed a cutout in the side of the stand to get the plumbing in place.

 

[rpkneumann]

Drains are finished.

 

[rpkneumann]

Few more steps
It’s harder than I thought.

Since I wi
Have two pumps running I decided to put the UV sterilizer in on3 of the return lines .. next steps. I can access the up bulb from the side.
Waiting for some parts to finish the second return.

 

[Budman93]

Looks great! Following along

 

[rpkneumann]

Plumbing done.
I have 7 inches left of blue pipe i bought, that was tight.

Originally planned to install a manifold with two 1/2 ball valves on the long return run (right side). The plan to run a mixed tank focused on fish, softies and LSP.
I will not need a ton of additional reactors.
The GFO & Carbon reactor runs on its own pump . So I decided to drop the idea of additional manifold. .
I can always insert it on the outside and punch through the back cover if needed. Though that would require moving the tank away from a set back picture window.

Installed all moving parts accessible from side. The UV units cover comes off easy (will replace the M3.5 phillips head cover screws with M3.5 knurled screws) then i can access and remove the tube easily.
The UV Bulb (25W-G25T8) is spec'ed as 8,000 hrs use.
Most UK reefers talking about 6 -10 months (4,300 - 7,200 hrs) useability. That is running the light 24/7 which i think I will have no need to

My skimmer fits nicely in the middle chamber (last picture), just haven't added it waiting for the wiring to be finished.
After wiring comes the leak test.

Never used a bean-animal drain before. May install videos but couldn't find anything on how to initialize.

Questions:
- How long are you running your UV lights? (high flow- algae fighting).
- Bean-animal: How do you actually start running it the first time and make the flow adjustments?

 

[rpkneumann]

The top brace came back from the powder shop. Not bad invested $50 for resistant paint and professionally done.
Now it’s time to wire up all the components and give it a test run.