Clam ID?

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Not a linckia, but an Echinaster. I wouldn't worry.
So echinasters are clam eaters? I'm 90% mine is a Linkia. He's still in the sump right now until I'm positive there should be an issue. I've seen videos of ask kings of starfish pumping their stomachs I into clams and dissolving them.
 
So elsewhere my clam has been identified as a teardrop maxima. Does this seem true to the clam experts by the shell/folds?
 
Definitely not a crocea. I may redact my statement though about squamosa do to how close those scutes are together. However now we are down to the one last pic that unfortunately isn't on here. The bysall opening . I mean I'm 80% sure it's teardrop maxima but the bysall will be your tell all. It has all the classic signs low laying ribs evenly spaced in the scutes and scutes closer together than they are wide. Small filaments on incurrent syphon. However your telltale and 100% shot will be of the bysall opening
 
Still vote Crocea, check this out.


  • Ultra Crocea Clam


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Ultra Crocea Clam
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This Ultra Crocea clam has an incredibly colored mantle consisting of a bright blue and purple base with white spots, some of which are rimmed in small yellow dots. As with all clams, high light and feeding is required for long term care in captivity. This WYSIWYG TANK RAISED specimen is 2".


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Location: The crocea clam (Tridacna crocea) is a variety of giant clam found throughout the Indo-Pacific. Crocea clams are one of the most highly sought-after invertebrates in the reef aquarium hobby and have been for decades. Their bright mantles with exotic coloration are an immediate hit with reef hobbyists and general onlookers alike. To read our full blog post on Tridacna clams, CLICK HERE!

Unlike some of the larger reef-dwelling giant clams, Tridacna crocea maintain a manageable size. They rarely grow over 9” in total length and are typically seen in the 3-6” range in home aquariums. Gigas clams in comparison can grow to over 36” in length and weigh over 400 lbs.

Lighting: Crocea clams require very intense light for best health.
  • Low Light translates to about 30-50 PAR
  • Medium Light is between 50-150 PAR
  • High Light is anything over 150 PAR

Water Flow: We recommend keeping crocea clams in medium flow. Too much flow tends to stress these mollusks.

Feeding:Clams are filter-feeding invertebrates and require phytoplankton periodically. Crocea clams however do not rely quite as much on feeding as other varieties of clams as they derive much of their nutrients from photosynthesis.

Clams are known to deplete calcium and alkalinity in reef aquariums as they grow. It is important to closely monitor these parameters to ensure the croceas are getting what they need chemically to grow and thrive.

A Word of Caution: Like all Tridacna clams, crocea clams have a very sensitive foot that they securely anchor to rubble or rock formations. If this foot is damaged, the area can get infected easily and the clam will likely perish. It is for this reason that we recommend allowing the clam to settle onto a piece of rock and left alone. Constantly moving the clam greatly increases the risk of it dying.
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Well I'll either be happy with myself or feel like an idiot when the bysall pics comes. But I'm not afraid to admit when I'm wrong so let's get this show in the road
 
And now that I'm second guessing myself I wonder if it is one of those hybrid squamceas. Those scutes just look to defined . That's why I don't wanna admit crocea until I see the bysall
 
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See I see what your saying but I feel like yours is more patterned his is more teardrop also of you look at his his incurrent siphon has more defined filaments
 
Tried to get a good top shot of it as well. What is the bysall? It is the opening at the base/foot?
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Thanks for all the help guys! We will put it to a vote before long. LOL :)
 

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