Dragon52
2500 Club Member
Keep one thing in mind. The API Ammonia test kits are know to show .25 ammonia even when you don't have any so you might what to get the Salifert,Nyos or Red Sea for testing that one.
Complete newbie here...
- Thread starter MirandaP
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OP
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MirandaP
Community Member
We are in Beavercreek near wright patt air base. I'm do not KNOW anything about fish tanks at all. LOL We had a much smaller tank and a client of ours was moving and we took his larger tank with all the gear. He has a really nice light (not sure which one) but we are going to buy some radion ones the store recommended to not deal with the pain of switching out bulbs.My husband knows all that kind of stuff, so I will give it as correctly as I know. lol I know the filter is fx6. I don't believe we have refugium.. not sure about powerheads?
Here is a picture. We need to rake the sand and set up the rock.
This might help.
How to Quarantine
How to Setup a Quarantine Tank The following are the bare essentials: Aquarium (10-30 gallons seems to work for most people. Bigger QT lets you house more fish and gives you more wiggle room when it comes to ammonia. Smaller QT is cheaper, easier to maintain and can be setup/broke down...
www.reef2reef.com
You only need one tank so it's not terrible. Sometimes you can't tell that's the problem. It's a judgement call on your part and if you want to risk it. My tank is also like a thunderdome at feeding time. Setting up an observation tank will help making sure new fish eat and get acclimated.
A smaller tank is a bummer with an outbreak but a tank your size would be almost hobby ending. Velvet is deadly and trying to catch fish in a tank full of rock crevices is a royal pain. Then you have aiptasia, majano, red bugs, etc etc. Some people never quarantine and are fine. It's a judgment call.
Seanybaggs123
Active Member
Nice setup!We are in Beavercreek near wright patt air base. I'm do not KNOW anything about fish tanks at all. LOL We had a much smaller tank and a client of ours was moving and we took his larger tank with all the gear. He has a really nice light (not sure which one) but we are going to buy some radion ones the store recommended to not deal with the pain of switching out bulbs.My husband knows all that kind of stuff, so I will give it as correctly as I know. lol I know the filter is fx6. I don't believe we have refugium.. not sure about powerheads?
Here is a picture. We need to rake the sand and set up the rock.
krbnsol
Community Member
maybe check out these folks in your area maybe? https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/western-ohio-reef-club.129776/
Seanybaggs123
Active Member
The Aquatic Arsenal
2500 Club Member
You said your LFS was going to maintain your setup? What all do they include in this service? How often do they come out?
I would make sure to watch this series if you haven't already:
I would make sure to watch this series if you haven't already:
Orange driveway markers at hd or Lowe's are a cheap alternative to acrylic rod. Get a masonry bit to drill your rock. DD aquascape putty will cure underwater and is easy to work with. Didn't take much putty to cover the rod area and it cures the purple color of coraline algae.
Info overload by now. Break it down into one thing at a time you'll be fine. SW is incredibly easy it just sounds complicated.
artieg1
Active Member
Most on R2R will urge you to quarantine any fish before it goes into your display tank (DT), as do I. You only need one QT tank (20 gallons is fine), because I also urge you to add fish deliberately and slowly. Honestly, take a five minute tour of just the posting titles the last few months of the "Tank Emergency" forum. The most common is "why are all my fish dying" or "what's wrong with my X fish?". To go varsity level very quickly, there are theories that longstanding tanks (years, not weeks) might be biodynamically diverse enough for the fish inhabitants to tolerate the introduction of a parasite or disease. But not in a new tank. A year from now, you will either have a QT tank or be out of the hobby. A fish wipe out is a terrible thing (been there, done that). It is hard to keep fish in a reef tank where you cannot use copper and other medications (which kill corals and inverts). That is what makes reef keeping 10x harder that fish-only.
So, I would read the QT stickies in the beginner's forum. QT is also hard, because your QT tank will not have built up a biological filter, so you have to go slow, understock, change lots of water.
Go slow is my biggest advice. Stock very, very slowly.
So, I would read the QT stickies in the beginner's forum. QT is also hard, because your QT tank will not have built up a biological filter, so you have to go slow, understock, change lots of water.
Go slow is my biggest advice. Stock very, very slowly.
mattdg
Well-Known Member
Welcome to R2R!!
The first and most important item for any new reef, especially one as big as yours, is an RODI unit. 75 gallons per day or higher. Bulk Reef Supply is the easiest place to source one.
Between evaporation and water changes on a new reef system, you will be using much more water than you can imagine, and 100% pure water is a building block for everything that follows.
Most of all, take it slow, read, plan, research and have fun!
The first and most important item for any new reef, especially one as big as yours, is an RODI unit. 75 gallons per day or higher. Bulk Reef Supply is the easiest place to source one.
Between evaporation and water changes on a new reef system, you will be using much more water than you can imagine, and 100% pure water is a building block for everything that follows.
Most of all, take it slow, read, plan, research and have fun!
QT is either 72 or 76 days depending on who you ask. That is the length of the full life cycle of parasites like ich. There is a quicker method for fish called the Tank Transfer Method. You can find the details on R2R.
If your corals come from a fishless system then you only need to worry about coral pests. But coral and snails can carry ich if they come from a system that has fish. If you are going to go through the trouble of quarentining fish, you'll have to QT corals as well. Also, your tank should run fallow for 72 days. QT is a real commitment...lol
!!! Welcome to R2R @MirandaP !!! Nice looking tank. As I can see, you have a lot of great advise from our fellow reefers. Make sure that the rocks seats on the tank and not on the sand. If you get one of the lawnmover gobies that move sand and dig under the rocks you will have a nightmare. Rocks can fall and crack your tank glass. Don't get scared of starting you own piece of the ocean. Just read and learn and be Patience.
MrWheelock
Valuable Member
Welcome to R2R!
mcdrichj
Active Member
Welcome to R2R there is much more and better information here than you will find at any LFS. Also please start a build thread to share your journey!
I would get a better test kit then the API there are a few threads here on what kits people use for certain parameters. Dont add meds to your main system especially copper!
Definitely an RO/DI system to make your water and for top off.
Are you starting out with dry rock or is it actual live rock? If it actual live rock you might want to cure it first to prevent hitchhikers or at lease keep an eye out for them.
Finally, I'm jealous of your 150!
OP
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MirandaP
Community Member
It's live rock...We just finally placed it and are still getting it all together. They didn't say anything about curing it. I think I had asked him if it was cured and he said yes. LOL I'm going to paint the stand a charcoal grey to go with our decor better. It's definitely going to be a long process.
