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Oceanwave45
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Wait I am confused, a water change will not help?
Coralline Algee question
- Thread starter Oceanwave45
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It will help.
Have you tested po4?
Have you tested po4?
This, again, is IMO.
Water changes are really good at pulling out nitrates and phosphates that fuel algae. But there is also a natural progression in tanks, and the different algae sources build on each other. It will be difficult to stop this progression by lowering the available nutrients, and you may end up starving out your corals.
What do you measure for nitrate and phosphate? The general consensus on the chemistry forum seems to be about .02 - .08 for phos and about 5 for nitrates. In my 10 mo system I need to add them, because the system is so good at removing them. Yes I had a bunch of cyano, now less. Then I had a ton of turf algae, now less.
I am more of a "triton" believer that water changes are best used to remove unwanted things. (I don't run triton though) Siphoning the sand bed, bringing down high levels of XX are great reasons. Personally I'm going to do a largish one today because I expect some contamination in the tank. But I don't expect it to affect the algae.
Water changes are really good at pulling out nitrates and phosphates that fuel algae. But there is also a natural progression in tanks, and the different algae sources build on each other. It will be difficult to stop this progression by lowering the available nutrients, and you may end up starving out your corals.
What do you measure for nitrate and phosphate? The general consensus on the chemistry forum seems to be about .02 - .08 for phos and about 5 for nitrates. In my 10 mo system I need to add them, because the system is so good at removing them. Yes I had a bunch of cyano, now less. Then I had a ton of turf algae, now less.
I am more of a "triton" believer that water changes are best used to remove unwanted things. (I don't run triton though) Siphoning the sand bed, bringing down high levels of XX are great reasons. Personally I'm going to do a largish one today because I expect some contamination in the tank. But I don't expect it to affect the algae.
I was told earlier, red & purple coralline on this rock.
My phosphates are very low, like 0.03 or less, same with nitrates, barely registers.
What helped - after a decent cycling period - was lots of light in the sump. I have some, not a lot, of green algae growing, and chaeto.
So my sump has a section for live rock & skimmer, and another section as a refugium, and last section the return - I have a strong white led light in the 5500 range over that, where I have some green algae. I'm going to try a DIY green algae scrubber with the white light later, using a plastic bin inside the sump.
My phosphates are very low, like 0.03 or less, same with nitrates, barely registers.
What helped - after a decent cycling period - was lots of light in the sump. I have some, not a lot, of green algae growing, and chaeto.
So my sump has a section for live rock & skimmer, and another section as a refugium, and last section the return - I have a strong white led light in the 5500 range over that, where I have some green algae. I'm going to try a DIY green algae scrubber with the white light later, using a plastic bin inside the sump.
That's definitely not what's on the OP's rock.I was told earlier, red & purple coralline on this rock.
My phosphates are very low, like 0.03 or less, same with nitrates, barely registers.
What helped - after a decent cycling period - was lots of light in the sump. I have some, not a lot, of green algae growing, and chaeto.
So my sump has a section for live rock & skimmer, and another section as a refugium, and last section the return - I have a strong white led light in the 5500 range over that, where I have some green algae. I'm going to try a DIY green algae scrubber with the white light later, using a plastic bin inside the sump.
Why I posted my message, so that OP can see the difference.
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Oceanwave45
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Sorry guys I have a follow up question. So as some of you already know, I did all dry rock, and added one live rock. Please see picture. Does this rock have Coraline algae or is this something else. This is the only live rock I put into my tank. The dark read stuff doesn't come off like the cyano crap, which came off very easily. Please advise! THANKS AGAIN!
I do not see any dark red in the pictures I'm afraid.
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Oceanwave45
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I just posted the pics sorry for the delay - the rock in questions has looked like this since day one
No worries. Don't let the back and forth confuse you please. Your tank looks great and right where it should be. It s most likely that big beautiful branch came in with a lot of natures goodies on it.
Ime with red corraline , if you feel it it's actually a bit slick to the touch.
See that big pic mark posted there. Pink purple is a bit textured and rough.
Yea. IMO. Probably so.Sorry guys I have a follow up question. So as some of you already know, I did all dry rock, and added one live rock. Please see picture. Does this rock have Coraline algae or is this something else. This is the only live rock I put into my tank. The dark read stuff doesn't come off like the cyano crap, which came off very easily. Please advise! THANKS AGAIN!
Berlibee
.Wen Game.
We've just covered it here pretty detailed and you can check pictures also to compare:
https://reefhacks.com/how-to-get-rid-of-cyanobacteria/
Cyano is not the end of the world for sure.
Don't worry too much about it at this point.
https://reefhacks.com/how-to-get-rid-of-cyanobacteria/
Cyano is not the end of the world for sure.
Don't worry too much about it at this point.
aKlevans
Well-Known Member
Aha, thats why you wanted the picture of cyanobacteria from CFTWe've just covered it here pretty detailed and you can check pictures also to compare:
https://reefhacks.com/how-to-get-rid-of-cyanobacteria/
Cyano is not the end of the world for sure.
don't panic. Like other said it will go away. then in comes the hair algae. everyone loves a hairy reef.
Forsaken77
Valuable Member
Also, because I haven't seen it mentioned, cyano has a habit of forming in low flow areas. If you put a powerhead to get more flow in low-flow areas, the cyano has much less chance of forming at all.
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Oceanwave45
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Yes, I have heard that as well, but I was told not to have the powerhead pointed at the rock, more or less to the side. I have over 1200 GPH powerhead working, a total of three powerheads
