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if you have a crinoid post a picFrequency and food that you feed will be helpful .
Regards,
Abhishek

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if you have a crinoid post a picFrequency and food that you feed will be helpful .
Regards,
Abhishek

Golden pearls 5-50 micron and 100-200 plus phyto 1-30 micron to start the feeding response. Feed only in the morning, but there's no mechanical filtration to pull the food out until night. Should also mention my tank is permanently dyed the color of brown phyto and always has small specks of food flying around. Not close to Crystal clearFrequency and food that you feed will be helpful .
Regards,
Abhishek
i'll try that, thanksGolden pearls 5-50 micron and 100-200 plus phyto 1-30 micron to start the feeding response. Feed only in the morning, but there's no mechanical filtration to pull the food out until night. Should also mention my tank is permanently dyed the color of brown phyto and always has small specks of food flying around. Not close to Crystal clear
Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't "bacteria food" a shot of ammonia to start the cycle of new tanks? If i'm right, your working against your tank by doing this, because you're feeding it pollutants
5-50 micron is the size of phyto, may be too small for youi'll try that, thanks
BTW, batfish need a DSB and eat live fish and inverts, I don't know how far their diet goes, but your star may be at risk.![]()
i know this isn’t crinoid related but this is why i won’t take the crinoid back to the shop, inexperienced people that buy stuff and sell it to people saying it’s “easy” i’m about to setup a QT and ask how much this little guy is to try and save him. when i bought my crinoid they said they eat flake but i found that to not be true very quickly
i contacted them and they said he is 7 inches, he could eat all my fish so i won't be able to get him hopefully someone experienced picks him upBTW, batfish need a DSB and eat live fish and inverts, I don't know how far their diet goes, but your star may be at risk.
Crinoid moved again, seems to be doing fine no longer dropping arms.
I know this isn’t crinoid related but this is why i won’t take the crinoid back to the shop, inexperienced people that buy stuff and sell it to people saying it’s “easy” i’m about to setup a QT and ask how much this little guy is to try and save him. when i bought my crinoid they said they eat flake but i found that to not be true very quickly
"Doing fine" is relative with crinoids. Just because they are not dropping legs does not mean they are happy or feeding. If it's alive in a yearish, we can say it seems to be doing fine.

This is flawed logic. If the LFS brings in something that is difficult to keep, the best move is not to buy it, as buying it only tells them they should buy more.
i have witnessed it feeding on Nutramar Ova, after i’ve read about you feeding it to them... it’s eating so id say it’s doing fine, in a year if it’s still alive we’ll see if it’s doing fine![]()
i just thought it’d do better in my tank as a lot of things seem to do fine, i won’t end up getting it as it’s 7 inches and i’ve read they eat small fish
You can't tell if they are actually ingesting the food without cutting them open and checking. I tried to keep other species besides the ones I was successful with and although they would pick up the food and move it towards the center, it was not always actually ingested, leading to slow starvation anyways.
With such difficult to keep animals as crinoids and the like, its not ok just to "think they will do better" these animals need special preparation and dedicated environments. they can't just be thrown in to any random system and topped with a sprinkle of hope.
the little mouth area will get larger and then the arms will fold in when the crinoid is “full”
I’ve found from experience that the center disk expands without the presence of food, it’s not a guranteed indication that they are eating.

