Current USA orbit marine lighting questions

[rob safron]

If you don’t want to spend money I would just start with what you have. If you see poor growth than you can always upgrade. I went from the 2 pro’s to 4 radion XR30 LeD. Things have exploded but I have mostly SPS now.

 

[Chaley88]

What would be a tell of too much light besides bleaching? Staying closed up? I know not enough light is reaching towards the light but will they stay closed up if not enough light? Just wanna cover my bases before diving into a world of corals. I watched the 52 weeks videos and read a bunch but nothing ever prepares you enough, I dont want anything super creative just something where I can keep everything alive but not boringly simple. You guys have been super helpful already. I'm thinking about just adding a marine pro to add more power just in case I dont have enough already and if I ever make it up to being brave enough to try some harder stuff. U leas that's just a waste?

 

[rob safron]

You won’t have too much even adding a marine pro. Like someone said you really don’t need high par for many things. I would sell you my pros but they are the 72” fixtures.

 

[Darryl]

If you add a pro with the 2 you have you will be fine !

 

[Chaley88]

If you add a pro with the 2 you have you will be fine !

Thank you, I just dont want to limit myself. My tank size and wallet does that enough lol

 

[Sarah24!]

Hello,

If she adds one of the marine pros that is a 60 degree lens she will have overkill in lights (a good thing). Like posted before in my tank 34 inches tall, with a Ly-cor 1500 par meter it was 200 par on the sand bed. There are four different version of the pros which may confuse her. The ic loop pros have a 120 degree angle and are part of the ic loop series. The Original pros don’t have the round 60 degree lens or 120 degree lens but use the same remotes. The original pro and 60 degree pros use the same dual ramp timer also, but the power supply is twice the size.

Corals will respond to anything they feel sensitive to which is what makes it an art. If water chemistry is perfect, it could be lights, but that is usually known when just the sps are brown colored or you see the polyps overly extended. However, even with some sps, even with lots of light they have their polyps extended. Some softies are the same either they will open up or they won’t. (It’s easier to show then to place into words).

 

[Chaley88]

Hello,

If she adds one of the marine pros that is a 60 degree lens she will have overkill in lights (a good thing). Like posted before in my tank 34 inches tall, with a Ly-cor 1500 par meter it was 200 par on the sand bed. There are four different version of the pros which may confuse her. The ic loop pros have a 120 degree angle and are part of the ic loop series. The Original pros don’t have the round 60 degree lens or 120 degree lens but use the same remotes. The original pro and 60 degree pros use the same dual ramp timer also, but the power supply is twice the size.

Corals will respond to anything they feel sensitive to which is what makes it an art. If water chemistry is perfect, it could be lights, but that is usually known when just the sps are brown colored or you see the polyps overly extended. However, even with some sps, even with lots of light they have their polyps extended. Some softies are the same either they will open up or they won’t. (It’s easier to show then to place into words).

Yes, I was looking at their other options and for the 60 lens. I'm not sure which would be best. Should I try for the 120 angle with the pro ic? If I have the 60 lens would I still need the lights I have? Or would one pro ic and one regular orbit work?

 

[rob safron]

Go for the most you can afford. Lights can be always be turned down but once they are maxed out they are maxed out. Corals can survive at a wide range. Many only need 200 par, most of mine get 500 and do great. Someone said this above, go 100% on blues, Med on white and keep green and reds very low.

 

[Sarah24!]

Yes, I was looking at their other options and for the 60 lens. I'm not sure which would be best. Should I try for the 120 angle with the pro ic? If I have the 60 lens would I still need the lights I have? Or would one pro ic and one regular orbit work?

Hello,

Power wise one is stronger than both of your lights combined. With that said, the math we all finally get to use will say two. Because it’s a 60 degree lens you would have to raise it to cover front to back, so I would suggest two. Now lol the 60 degrees have been discontinued, but are still available at like 70% off on some places still. If you call current usa they may even donate if they have any left or sell them cheap. Another option is to ask your local aquarium if they have any. Another user sent the same route you did and they found two at their aquarium and they gave them away. When you use two of these, it will like running four or five of the ones you have now.

 

[Matt Carden]

here ya go....

https://current-usa.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/Orbit_Marine_Light_Specifications.pdf

This document clearly shows that past 12" PAR readings are 65 - 120. That is for the 60° lens'

I was looking into these in the beginning of my planning stages of my 150 build and I went with 3 - 16" SB reeflights which cost $135 a piece shipped.

 

[SamiBlue]

Quick question: would an orbit marine loop on a 30 gal be able to support any clams?

 

[Chaley88]

Quick question: would an orbit marine loop on a 30 gal be able to support any clams?

If it can, I'll sell you one or both of mine, their still new. Had them about 3 weeks.

 

[Sarah24!]

This document clearly shows that past 12" PAR readings are 65 - 120. That is for the 60° lens'

I was looking into these in the beginning of my planning stages of my 150 build and I went with 3 - 16" SB reeflights which cost $135 a piece shipped.

With speaking to Brandon about this who works with current they have to post the bare minimum of what the light can do. Which can be many factors played out, current draw, amperage, etc etc. these lights absolutely produce a lot more than that one the sand bed of my 240 that’s 34 inches tall. That was also using a ly-cor 1500 par meter which is one of the top in the industries, and also comparing it with an apogee in a lab environment. Companies can not say they will hit 200 par at 18 inches or 24 or 36 because then how many people would attempt to claim false advertisement. My maximus clam is about 24 inches down and does great and has amazing colors. Which can be seen in my photos, and we all know maximus clams need more than 60 par to do well. Spec sheets state the bare minimum, to avoid people claiming false advertising.

The reefbrites are good lights also, but why would she switch all three lights out? It also comes down to what her corals are use to, and if she likes the color of the currents or other lights. There are several factors to be considered when she is in this position. Switching lights is a common thing, but it’s also risky. It’s the same thing for example as an individual normally works 8am to 5pm. Then suddenly they switch from that shift to 10pm to 6 am. As humans we would definitely not approve and would make us unhappy. Corals being living animals get use to their environment and are not as flexible as us humans .

@SamiBlue yes they would be more than enough on a 30 gallon tank.

 

[Chaley88]

With speaking to Brandon about this who works with current they have to post the bare minimum of what the light can do. Which can be many factors played out, current draw, amperage, etc etc. these lights absolutely produce a lot more than that one the sand bed of my 240 that’s 34 inches tall. That was also using a ly-cor 1500 par meter which is one of the top in the industries, and also comparing it with an apogee in a lab environment. Companies can not say they will hit 200 par at 18 inches or 24 or 36 because then how many people would attempt to claim false advertisement. My maximus clam is about 24 inches down and does great and has amazing colors. Which can be seen in my photos, and we all know maximus clams need more than 60 par to do well. Spec sheets state the bare minimum, to avoid people claiming false advertising.

The reefbrites are good lights also, but why would she switch all three lights out? It also comes down to what her corals are use to, and if she likes the color of the currents or other lights. There are several factors to be considered when she is in this position. Switching lights is a common thing, but it’s also risky. It’s the same thing for example as an individual normally works 8am to 5pm. Then suddenly they switch from that shift to 10pm to 6 am. As humans we would definitely not approve and would make us unhappy. Corals being living animals get use to their environment and are not as flexible as us humans .

@SamiBlue yes they would be more than enough on a 30 gallon tank.

If I can't find an older model 60 lens which of their current models would get me out of this jam with just 1 light? I'd love to have me a clam one day when my tank settles and I learn more.

 

[Sarah24!]

Quick question: would an orbit marine loop on a 30 gal be able to support any clams?

Hello

Just doing a quick search I found one here at this site I don’t know how to add links but here is a pic of it. It’s the one that is 145.99 would of course be wise of me to ask how long your tank is (oops)

Saltwater aquarium.com has the 60 degree pro 36-48 on sale now see pic

 

[rob safron]

Obviously, you will get lots of opinions. Some will say they can do anything with marine orbit while others say you need very expensive lights for clams, ect. Personally, I had very bad luck with the orbits, started with 1 pro 72” fixture. After that seemed to fail my corals went with a second. My main reason to switch was when my healthy corelline algae began getting white spots that eventually spread. Spent a lot of money on Radions and now I have massive growth, several clams. If you have the funds I say go big. If not you can always upgrade later. Not sure I personally would invest more into marine lights. If your like me you will still upgrade after that.

 

[Chaley88]

Obviously, you will get lots of opinions. Some will say they can do anything with marine orbit while others say you need very expensive lights for clams, ect. Personally, I had very bad luck with the orbits, started with 1 pro 72” fixture. After that seemed to fail my corals went with a second. My main reason to switch was when my healthy corelline algae began getting white spots that eventually spread. Spent a lot of money on Radions and now I have massive growth, several clams. If you have the funds I say go big. If not you can always upgrade later. Not sure I personally would invest more into marine lights. If your like me you will still upgrade after that.

Wouldn't I need 2 radians for a 90? Can you put them up with a canopy on the tank?

 

[Chaley88]

Hello

Just doing a quick search I found one here at this site I don’t know how to add links but here is a pic of it. It’s the one that is 145.99 would of course be wise of me to ask how long your tank is (oops)

Saltwater aquarium.com has the 60 degree pro 36-48 on sale now see pic

We got the 42 to 60 I think I it was for light size on the orbits.

 

[rob safron]

Wouldn't I need 2 radians for a 90? Can you put them up with a canopy on the tank?

Yes would need at least 2 and yes can place in canopy. Not saying you should go with Radions, just commmenting that I also added marine orbits and still ended up upgrading. There are much cheaper black box LEDs that many have success with. Here is my tank.

 

[SamiBlue]

If it can, I'll sell you one or both of mine, their still new. Had them about 3 weeks.

I'd love to but at the moment I only have a 3.5 month old 10 gal. I have an empty 30 gal that I want to upgrade to but I can't make the switch yet. Staying at a friend's of my mom due to house flooding from hurricane florence and they'd both wring my neck if I tried pulling it off now [emoji14]