chadderboxx
Well-Known Member
I just know for a fact I drilled my with 2" hole for my 1" bulkhead
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custom 93g acrylic cube reef tank build
- Cube Build
- Thread starter grumpy-crab
- Start date
- Tagged users None
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grumpy-crab
Well-Known Member
Here it is... schedule 40 and 80 bulk head sizes with hole sizes for each.
Sense i didnt have a micrometer i took a pizza box lid and laided it under the tank and traced tje holes with a pencil. The over flow hole is 2 5/8" so i need a schedule 80 1 1/2" bulkhead. Now my return hole is 1 1/2" so i need a schedule 40 3/4" bulkhead. But sense my return splits off and exits out the over flow box i really need three 3/4" schedule 40 bulk heads. And im gonna get 2 foot of 3/4" lock line to direct the flow where ever i see fit
and i want to do a dorsal over flow drain but im going to have the pick up at the bottom of the over flow box to help keep detritus from settling on the bottom.
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Sense i didnt have a micrometer i took a pizza box lid and laided it under the tank and traced tje holes with a pencil. The over flow hole is 2 5/8" so i need a schedule 80 1 1/2" bulkhead. Now my return hole is 1 1/2" so i need a schedule 40 3/4" bulkhead. But sense my return splits off and exits out the over flow box i really need three 3/4" schedule 40 bulk heads. And im gonna get 2 foot of 3/4" lock line to direct the flow where ever i see fit
and i want to do a dorsal over flow drain but im going to have the pick up at the bottom of the over flow box to help keep detritus from settling on the bottom. Sent Via the R2R Forum APP
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Nice build, I can't wait to see the end result. For sand I would recommend caribsea special grade reef sand. That fine stuff just blows around too much, been there done that and it was a pain to remove all that fine sand. Also I think you will be much happier with 2 pm40s over the mp10s. I have an mp10 in my34 solana (20x20x20) and I have it all the way up. I'm seriously thinking about putting my mp40 in there. Also even if it seems like good flow when you first set up the tank once your corals grow in that will change. Those pumps are just too expensive to have to replace. I will have to upgrade my mp10 once I get my 150 cube set up.
And why are you selling the challenger? I love E- bodies. I've restored a few mopars and the E-bodies remain my favorite though I don't think I'd be able to part with any of them, lol.
And why are you selling the challenger? I love E- bodies. I've restored a few mopars and the E-bodies remain my favorite though I don't think I'd be able to part with any of them, lol.
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grumpy-crab
Well-Known Member
Thanks. Its the first system that im not really using right out the box.
i still have a lot to do and decide on. And ive always rented so im putting all my cars up forsale to buy a house.
and im all MOPAR whole family born and raised haha ive been to MOPAR Nationals in Carliale, PA several times. But i agree E body is my favorite... just cant beat the curves. Sent Via the R2R Forum APP
chadderboxx
Well-Known Member
Order off marinedepot. Or brs. There both fast shipping. So you have a 11/2 return and 3- 3/4" returns that's a odd set up show me some pic. So we can figure out this plumbing I'm a master now lol.
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chadderboxx
Well-Known Member
I put 4 of these on my cls on my tank http://www.marinedepot.com/Hydra_Aq...g_Parts-Hydra_Aquatics-AZ21452-FIFTFB-vi.html
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grumpy-crab
Well-Known Member
Mike&Terry
Wrasses, Angels, & Tangs, Oh My!
Nice build... looking forward to seeing some water in it. :bigsmile:
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grumpy-crab
Well-Known Member
Also 3/4" loc-line and fittings isnt cheap
Thank you so much. I have seen your posts and threads. Glad to see your going to follow along
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grumpy-crab
Well-Known Member
I have $200 in store credit waiting to be spent lol the sump is gonna take alot of room in the stand but i think it will work out ok long as i plan everything out and keep it organized. Im also pretty much sold on a RDSB/ ATO it would be a custom made tank to fit and be divided in half to separate the 2.
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chadderboxx
Well-Known Member
Grumpy did you check those out I think if you put 1 on each side and use it as your return you can get some good flow. The only this it how high is it drilled on the overflow cause if you shut off the pump or loose power the tank will drain to the point the holes are drilled. So you doing 1 1/2 out and 3/4 return split into 2 ... 3/4" returns.
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grumpy-crab
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Yeah my sump wont be able to handle 4-6" of drain off. But i know how im gonna fix that. All i have to do is bend the loc-line up as high as i want the drain off to be and drill a small 1/8 or even a 1/16 hole in the lock line at the highest point. That way of the power goes out when the water drains off that little hole will allow air to fill the loc-line and break the siphon.
And yeah ive been looking at those. I could have them pointed at the opposite bottom corners and have them intersect right in the middle of the tank.
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chadderboxx
Well-Known Member
Check out the build I have them in action I think there cool. I don't think ill need my mp40 or 60. Save me $$$ watch the top of the water level go up and down really good flow. And with you drill a hole won't it spray water out if its a return you have to face it down into the tank.
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grumpy-crab
Well-Known Member
Yes i would drill it under the water so salt creep wont plug it up. I got curious about the drain off so i calculated it and im looking at 3.875 gallons for every inch of drain off.
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the first sump i wanted was Eshopps RS-200 but now im thinking i want the Eshopps R-200 
