Cyano algae and flow

[Dag95833]

Relatively new with reef setups. Have had this tank going for a few months. It’s 75 gallons and recently have had issues with what I believe is cyano algae. I know a lot of variables can cause it and need to have a proper water testing done of all levels. From the basic test kit I have everything seems inline. This only tests ph, nitrate, nitrite and ammonia. A few days ago I ran chemiclean for 48 hours and then did a big water change. Yesterday it looked great. Nothing on the sand bed even after a normal light schedule day. Prior throughout the day with the lights on the algae would get worse. I do only use RODI water. Today I wake up and have a few little spots on the sand. It appears to be in dead spots from the power heads. This morning I have been adjusting the setting and increasing the power. I am including a pic before the treatment below and a video of the flow from today. It’s not bad today but trying to figure out if flow may be an issue.

 

[Jason mack]

Hello #Dag95833 Does'nt look like cyno ....to me...looks more like diatoms or possibly dinos ....the rodi water you use for mixing salt is it at 0tds ...have you changed the filters recently....what is your no3 and po4 .. ,?

 

[andrewey]

Sorry, for some reason your videos only play audio for me. Maybe try and reupload them? Can you get a closer picture of the cyano- at first blush it looks closer to diatoms. Could you provide the values you got from your testing. Do you test your RODI water? It could have a high TDS if you don't and you could be causing diatom outbreaks from your water changes (the chemiclean could be a red herring).

 

[Dag95833]

TDS is 0 coming out of the RODI. Just checked the nitrate and it’s between 0-5. Need to get a test for phosphate. Hard to tell exactly but looks closer to 0. Here is some closer pics from this morning. Grows fast with the lights on and seems to stop with no light and go away.

 

[Dag95833]

Second attempt at video

 

[Jason mack]

That's dinos more than likely ostreopsis...from your description... make sure your no3 and po4 are no3 5-10ppm and po4 0.05 -0.01...I would advise using a UV ( 1w per 3gal)light and hang it direct in your tank at night ...reduce your lighting schedule.. run more blues ..turn the whites down ....and add phytoplankton and copepods .

 

[Jason mack]

And look here

Dinoflagellates – Are You Tired Of Battling Altogether?

If Dino's aren't moving is that death or they just don't wanna move? Lol. Finished the wasteaway bottle. So I'm done with that. I didn't dose silicate last night because I ran out. New bottle came today and the girl though it would be better to slowly ween off silicate than cut cold turkey...

www.reef2reef.com

 

[Dag95833]

Thanks. Going to look at getting a uv light as well as the other things. Been running the attached lighting settings that doesn’t even show blue but the blues are on. Did that original to reduce the whites. Will mess with the settings.

 

[Dag95833]

On a side note this all seemed to start when I used reef roids. Not sure if that had any correlation.

When you say a uv light directly in the tank not plumbed underneath?

 

[Jason mack]

Yes hanging direct in the tank ...ostreopsis rise into the water column at night as do coolia ..your uV will have more effect if its cycling the water in your tank rather tha what just comes from your overflow ...also run some activated carbon in your sump dinos are toxic ...akso it would be a good idea too try and get a sample under microscope...a positive ID is necessary to which you have ...

 

[Jason mack]

I dont think reef roids is the cause of the problem dinos usually take hold when no3 and po4 have been at 0 for a time...0 nutrients in the tank..then dinos will thrive...I would also recommend using a hanna checker for phos ulr is best ..abd will give you a more accurate p04 reading ...dont forget we are measuring 0.00..

 

[Dag95833]

Thanks for the info. Looking to order a uv light and will look into the other things also. I appreciate the help!

 

[Jason mack]

Thanks for the info. Looking to order a uv light and will look into the other things also. I appreciate the help!

No problem that's what we are here for

 

[Dag95833]

Went out fishing today and left the lights off. Came back and it totally cleared up for now. Rock even looks clean. Just weird how it comes and goes. Bought this green machine and just installed and running. Hoping it helps.

 

[Jason mack]

That's because when it's dark they rise into the water column.

 

[Jason mack]

How many watts is that UV you will need 25w minimum on that 75g ...I had too use a 36w on my 90g ...1w per 3g .. .thats the formula that's recommended

 

[Dag95833]

Crap. It’s 24watts. Picked it up at Petsmart. Was the largest they had. Giving it a try. May return for a bigger or add a second one.

 

[Jason mack]

Dont forget live phytoplankton and copepods...add 1ml per 12gal /50liters ..this will help support your microbiology in your tank ..and if you can get a sample under microscope. Then you know for sure what you are dealing with .. ..

 

[ReefLab]

Ymmv but I got a 25 watt Aqua UV for my 88 gallon display tank (roughly 110g system) and I have it running off the manifold in the sump (not pulling from the tank). My Dino’s cleared within a day.
best of luck, you can beat it!

 

[Dag95833]

Thanks, I am looking at picking up a cheap microscope. Will come in handy and I’m sure the kids will like it.

Do most LFS have phytoplankton and copepods or is this something I need to order from like algaebarn?

Thanks, reeflab. Fingers crossed!