Cyano bacteria

Ok so basically when i mix a salt that water should be ro abd then i can pour it in my tank.am i right?
Are you serious? You sound like you are trolling now. You've had a tank for 7 months and these are your questions.
 
Ok thanks and one more thing if anyone dont know anything so it means he is a time waster?
 
I appreciate you help me out but please dont say that i am wasting your time.i am here just to be helped by others since i am new to hobby and i havent go in deep regarding saltwater setup and just bought corals last month so it was just a basic question that how often should i feed them well thanks alot again
 
Cyano thrives under crappy lighting. So replace your bulbs with new, high quality bulbs. If they are fluorescent, replace them every 6-8 months as that is how long it takes them to get out of spectrum far enough to be bad. Lose the bio-balls. Get a GFO reactor it will do wonders. Aggressively skim. Change 20% a week until the problem subsides, then 10%/week religiously. You can add RO/DI water to what you have but dilution of your tap water will take some time. I would do an initial 50% water change with new saltwater (mixed for at least a day) to start.
 
Cyano thrives under crappy lighting. So replace your bulbs with new, high quality bulbs. If they are fluorescent, replace them every 6-8 months as that is how long it takes them to get out of spectrum far enough to be bad. Lose the bio-balls. Get a GFO reactor it will do wonders. Aggressively skim. Change 20% a week until the problem subsides, then 10%/week religiously. You can add RO/DI water to what you have but dilution of your tap water will take some time. I would do an initial 50% water change with new saltwater (mixed for at least a day) to start.

The bulb statement is not correct. Spectrum shift in bulb highly depends on the ballast used. A programmed start ballast can double the life of a bulb vs a rapid start one. With a programmed start ballast a bulb can easily last a year before needing replacement.
 
The bulb statement is not correct. Spectrum shift in bulb highly depends on the ballast used. A programmed start ballast can double the life of a bulb vs a rapid start one. With a programmed start ballast a bulb can easily last a year before needing replacement.

Hmm... You said it wasn't correct, then you said it was, kind of. So get an expensive ballast and you get 4 more months of bulb life?

Well, in either case, Cyano thrives on aging fluorescent bulbs. Replace annually at the longest or when you see Cyano creeping back in the tank.
 
Hmm... You said it wasn't correct, then you said it was, kind of. So get an expensive ballast and you get 4 more months of bulb life?

Well, in either case, Cyano thrives on aging fluorescent bulbs. Replace annually at the longest or when you see Cyano creeping back in the tank.

Most of the modern units will use programmed start ballasts. Sure if you buy eBay special you going to get a cheap ballast but most reefers nowadays if they are going T5 they tend to buy quality whether it be ATI or a quality retrofit. There are other advantages to programmed start as higher ballast factor and they are hardly any more expensive nowadays.
 
Alright no worries, here's what you will do as a basic step to punch that Cyano in the face:

1. Remove those bio-balls first and if possible, attain an ATS (Algae Turf Scrubber) instead--not needed immediately, but will benefit greatly in the future.
2. Mix RO/DI water enough to do a 35% water change.
3. Proceed with 35% water change then turn off your lights for 2-3 days.
4. Another water change of 20% on day 2 or 3.
5. Monitor results and keep us updated so we may assist you in making small adjustments or decisions to eliminate this nuisance.

Cyanobacteria are self-feeding through photosynthesis (requiring light), so you are basically removing nutrients first...then stagnating their ability to colonize by omitting light with this process.
 
Cyano thrives under crappy lighting. So replace your bulbs with new, high quality bulbs. If they are fluorescent, replace them every 6-8 months as that is how long it takes them to get out of spectrum far enough to be bad. Lose the bio-balls. Get a GFO reactor it will do wonders. Aggressively skim. Change 20% a week until the problem subsides, then 10%/week religiously. You can add RO/DI water to what you have but dilution of your tap water will take some time. I would do an initial 50% water change with new saltwater (mixed for at least a day) to start.
I am using to led lights fixtures but there is a glass lid on my tank so its breaking my light thats what i am thinking.but if i remove it my fishes try to jump and come out of tank..
 
Replace your glass tops with this, if you are worried about the glass deflecting light.
 
I went menards today and i found egg crate over there which is similar to this stuff but i want sonething heavy duty so i can put my led lights fixture on that crate too
 
I went menards today and i found egg crate over there which is similar to this stuff but i want sonething heavy duty so i can put my led lights fixture on that crate too
I would not recommend letting your light rest on your aquarium tops, that is just asking for disaster imo...
 
Then how should i put my lights on my tank.i saw light stand online.thry are way too much expensive and my room ceiling is too high so i cannot hang at that height.lol i amstuck
 
I would go with a mount/stand or hanging them. If you rest them on the aquarium tops (especially if you change to egg crate) you will be risking them falling in the water.
 

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