GoTakeANap
Valuable Member
My tank has had cyano for a few days now. Ive done a water change and siphoned out as much as I could. What else can I do to get rid of it? What causes cyano? My tank has good flow. IDK what to do. Help please. Thanks
Cyano Problem
- Thread starter GoTakeANap
- Start date
- Tagged users None
SeahorseKeeper
Where's the mysis?
Some more info about the tank would be very helpful in getting to the root cause of the cyano. In addition to the above questions, what lights do you use and how old are they? Do you have any macros? What do you feed and how often?
I usually take a more holistic approach to this type of problems. There are many factors that can contribute to this problem. Although one may be the overriding factor, you should address each one of them to insure that you have solved this problem. The use of "red slime removers" will work, but if you don't resolve whatever caused it in the first place, it will simply keep reoccurring. Here is a good article that will help explain the cause and some of the remedies:
BlueGrAlgae
BlueGrAlgae
Chaz D
Active Member
Special Blend has worked wonders for me. It's no overnight cure, however it will get rid of the cyano by adding a healthy load of good bacteria which will eventually compete it once they start multiplying. Give it a good 2-5 weeks and be patient...be ready for the smell (should tell you it's good stuff). Good thing about the special blend is unlike other products you're not killing bacteria and shutting down your skimmer. If your tank is high in nitrates/phosphates you'll need to take care of that, otherwise you'll be trading problems once the green stuff starts growing.
OP
OP
GoTakeANap
Valuable Member
Both my tanks have cyano.
75 Gallon test readings
PH - 8.1-8.2
ALK - 4
Nitrite - 0
Nitrate - 30
Ammonia - 0.2-0.3
Phosphate - 5
Lighting is a Wave Point 4 lamp T5HO fixture. Changed lamps 3 weeks ago and replacement lamps are ATI. Have a skimmer set up with a sump down below.
29 Gallon tank
PH - 8-8.1
ALK - 3.5
Nitrite - 0
Nitrate - 0.5
Ammonia - 0
Phosphate - 2.0
Has a 150w MH pendant fixture. Lamp has about 6 months of use on it. Tank has a skimmer set up. This is a all in one unit.
OP
OP
GoTakeANap
Valuable Member
meant to also add this info. The only thing I add to my 75 gallon is Phyto Feast once a week. 29 Gallon I add Activate by Aqalife(Bad hair algae problem and this is whats helping me get rid of the hair algae problems im having.
Chaz D
Active Member
Chemiclean is a "temp fix" and will only elevate your ammonia as it kills off the cyano. It will make your skimmer go crazy and require you do a water change. You need to get the phosphates down (using GFO or other phosphate control method) and your bacterial population/balance in check to counteract the cyano. Use the Special Blend, it works.
OP
OP
GoTakeANap
Valuable Member
how do you use gfo?
Algae problems are usually caused by aquarium water with excess nutrients like phosphate, nitrates etc. You can try and siphon out what you can to remove the algae in the short term. In the long term you may have to examine how you care for your tank. There are some commercial dry foods also contain excess nutrients and other undesirable things like nitrates, phosphates etc so I strain/rinse my fresh/frozen foods before feeding my tank. You may want to consider feeding your fish less often. Also, changing your photo period, light bulbs, adding more flow, using RO/DI water. Adding a phosphate remover and increasing flow in your tank may help too.
is not a temp fix and gets the job done, the only thing that truly works long term, I've tired it all
beaslbob
2500 Club Member
I kill the lights and stop feeding until it clears. Usually in a few days.
the resume with less lighting and feeding and adjust so the corals and algae (or macros in a refugium) thrive but the cyano doesn't.
my .02
the resume with less lighting and feeding and adjust so the corals and algae (or macros in a refugium) thrive but the cyano doesn't.
my .02
OP
OP
GoTakeANap
Valuable Member
Ive replaced the lamps in both tanks. 75 gallon within the last month and the 29 gallon this monday. I rinse all my froze foods under the sink before adding food to the tank. I dont feed dry foods at all. Added a new korila 3 2 weeks again to the larger tank and I only use ro/di water(buy it from LFS). So ived added more flow. No phosphate remover in the big tank. I use to feed my corals marine snow once a week but quit feeding that 3 weeks ago. Feed my larger tank 1 cube of mysis(4 fish and a shrimp) and smaller tank a half of a cube of mysis(2 fish). Both are fed every other day! Hope this info helps with whats causing my problems. Any info on what may be the main part of my problem?
Let me add this info in. My 29 gallon tank had cynao in it. Ive fragged a few corals from that tank and moved it to my 75 gallon. I rinsed it really good before adding to my larger tank. The 75 gallon tank didnt have any cyano until a day after putting frags in it. Thats prolly why it started in my bigger tank.
Anyone have a pic or blueprint info on adding a reactor to my larger tank in a sump and what all i would need.
aslmx
Valuable Member
Ive just learned that its part of life with a tank. It comes and goes with me. Ive tried all the snake oils but I just dont stress and keep water changes and such until it goes away.....but these freakin flat worms are another story.
OP
OP
GoTakeANap
Valuable Member
yea i had a korila 3 to the tank/ it now has 2 of those and a return pump down from my sump. everything moves great in the tank. ill get rid of it.
Steviereefs
Well-Known Member
I think phosphate in both tanks are very high
Phosphates in Your Saltwater Aquarium
The Affect of Phosphates on The Algae and Corals
By Stan & Debbie Hauter,
Phosphates are a primary nutrient source for many forms of algae, particularly green hair species, so when high concentrations are allowed to accumulate in an aquarium, it opens the door for aggressive algae blooms to occur.
Phosphates promote the proliferation of brown algae in the tissue of corals, masking the natural color pigments of the corals and causing the coral to turn brown. It also restricts the calcium carbonate uptake necessary to enable the coral skeleton to grow.
The optimal phosphate level, especially for reef tanks, is an immeasurable one, or zero, with 0.05 ppm-mg/l being acceptable, and an upper level of 0.1 ppm cited as well. Having a good, reliable phosphate test kit is important
Steviereefs
Well-Known Member
IMO, A GFO reactor is the best long term solution to control phosphate. At the moment phosphate levels in my tank are at .29, I'm going to install a GFO reactor very soon to counteract and control the phosphates. This method is very commonly used by many reefers, but also other methods are used such as a refugium which is basically a partitioned part of your sump with a macro algae in it and a small light source, this way the macro algae grow using and removing the phosphates!!!! So either way is common practice, IMO the reactor seems simpler and easier to manage and that's why I'm choosing the reactor route!!!!!
