Steviereefs
Well-Known Member
This is the one I picked. It's rated for up to 150 gallons, and can hang right on the back of the tank if there is room.
Cyano Problem
- Thread starter GoTakeANap
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Steviereefs
Well-Known Member
Basically your tank water flows into the chamber and forces the water through the phosphate absorption media the GFO ( Granular ferric oxide) at back into the tank removing phosphates. I hope this helps you!!
gmoney243
2500 Club Member
simply its a nutrient issue. 5ppm and 2ppm phos is crazy high u needa to run GFO ASAP. also your nitrates in the big tank are high at 30ppm other tank at .5ppm is fine. as other have said run a gfo reactor and sume chaeto in a fuge or biopellets in a reactor will take care of both nitrates and phos. biopellets take a while to get going for now u need to run some gfo. as high as your phos are the gfo will get exhausted very fast and need to be changed in a few days- a week till you get them down to .02-.05 using a hanna checker preferably to test. after maintaining low nutrients the cyano will go away and wont return as long as you keep your params in check.
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GoTakeANap
Valuable Member
I bought a reactor over the weekend from BRS with High Capacity GFO that they offer. It should be here on Thursday by the tracking info. Hopefully this will fix my problem in my tank. I'm just curious but what would be causing all this nutrients in my tank?
I feed once every other day. A cube of mysis in my 75 gallon tank. Feeds 4 fish and 3 shrimp. I run a skimmer and have a sump set up. Bulbs were just changed within the last month. I feed my corals Phyto Feast once a week. I spot feed 1 tsp mixed with water from my tank. If that's not the best thing to feed my corals I would like to know what would be. If I left any info out, please ask and I will be glad to answer any questions you may have.
I feed once every other day. A cube of mysis in my 75 gallon tank. Feeds 4 fish and 3 shrimp. I run a skimmer and have a sump set up. Bulbs were just changed within the last month. I feed my corals Phyto Feast once a week. I spot feed 1 tsp mixed with water from my tank. If that's not the best thing to feed my corals I would like to know what would be. If I left any info out, please ask and I will be glad to answer any questions you may have.
Have you ever checked the water you're getting from the LFS? It's been my experience that many LFS's aren't really giving you water that has been processed through DI resin. I also found out that the LFS I used at one time wasn't very diligent about replacing the filters either. Do you know someone nearby that has a good TDS meter, that would check the water you're getting from the LFS? I'd invest in a good RO/DI unit, and TDS meter. Considering the WC's you should be doing and the amount of top off you need, it would pay for itself in a relatively short period of time.
My line of thinking in the last few years, is that cyano is seasonal. I seem to get it the same time of the year. I use Erythromycin at half dose. It has the least negative impact on my tank inhabitants.
Here is an excerpt from the link I posted on page 1 of this thread:
"Antibiotic Control Cautionary Remarks
There are numerous products promoted as chemical controls of BGA, some erythromycin antibiotic based, others of copper, sugars, even pepper sauce… All should be avoided on two counts: Though they (the antibiotic based ones) may apparently work, the materials that make up the BGA frequently poison the system within minutes to days of their "dissolving". And, adding insult to injury, unless you change the circumstances/conditions in your system, the Cyanobacteria very often "reassemble" in a short while if chemically treated.", Bob Fenner.
"Antibiotic Control Cautionary Remarks
There are numerous products promoted as chemical controls of BGA, some erythromycin antibiotic based, others of copper, sugars, even pepper sauce… All should be avoided on two counts: Though they (the antibiotic based ones) may apparently work, the materials that make up the BGA frequently poison the system within minutes to days of their "dissolving". And, adding insult to injury, unless you change the circumstances/conditions in your system, the Cyanobacteria very often "reassemble" in a short while if chemically treated.", Bob Fenner.
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GoTakeANap
Valuable Member
ive never tested my LFS water but im about to now. What all should I test for? Wish I had someone close by, but the closet store is a hour away. The RO/DI unit I just bought from BRS has a built in TDS meter so that should help me. You want the closet to 100% on your TDS correct? Thats why I decided to buy one. Was spending $50 buxes almost every week on saltwater and ro water.
What should I do to raise my ALK up?
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GoTakeANap
Valuable Member
In the future what should I run after its all under control? Biopellets or BRS High Capacity GFO? Ive also been doing a 10 gallon water change every week.
gmoney243
2500 Club Member
run whatever combo you prefer either gfo+fuge algae such as chaeto or an algae turf scrubber. or just run WM Ecobak Biopellets if you have a good skimmer. theres a few ways to keep nutrients under control its preference really. personally i run skimmer+algae scrubber+fuge+biopellets lol.
and as far as alk you never said whether your measuring in DKH or MEQ/L theres a big difference in those numbers. if your measuring in DKH then 4 is way to low and with biopellets you want to run it around 8DKH. if your measuring in MEQ/L then 4MEQ/L = 11.2DKH in which case its a bit high to run biopellets or you can get burnt tips on your acros.
JMSKI333
Valuable Member
That is crazy that you spent $50 a week for water. You can get an amazing 6 stage RODI unit for $250-$300.
Although, if you have a new unit now, then there is no point to test your LFS's water. Just test the water coming from your RODI.
