Cyanobacteria - questions, answers and solution
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wattson
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do you keep carbon and GFO running in reactors when your dosing H2O2 for cyano ?? having a hard time trying to calculate water volume due to figuring out what my rock and sand volume is to start dosing H2O2..
I have 3 tanks and separate refugium all on one system..
Im trying to be accurate as possible on water volume because I dont want to under dose or overdose..
a help with these topics would greatly appreciated
I have 3 tanks and separate refugium all on one system..
Im trying to be accurate as possible on water volume because I dont want to under dose or overdose..
a help with these topics would greatly appreciated
mcarroll
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Dunno if this might be interesting in this thread:
Air-dispersed phytoplankton in a Mediterranean River-Reservoir System – cyano can definitely move about via air currents. Toxic bloom forming cyano is specifically mentioned.
Air-dispersed phytoplankton in a Mediterranean River-Reservoir System – cyano can definitely move about via air currents. Toxic bloom forming cyano is specifically mentioned.
OP
OP
twilliard
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We have found that there is a profound reaction with the GFO which may lead to No3 stripping.
wattson
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makes me very nervous to dose H2O2 but have to try to get rid of the cyano,,Ive tried everything else.I dosed my system with H2O2 today and everybody got REAL mad after I dosed and closed up for a while,,I have mainly zoas/palys and cyano,,
Is there a preferred way to actually dose the H2O2 every 12 hours into a system with a sump that has live rock in it ??
Is there a preferred way to actually dose the H2O2 every 12 hours into a system with a sump that has live rock in it ??
Mpierce
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The zoas and palys will close for a bit but they open right back up after an hour or 2. I would just dose 1ml/10gal (maybe a little more) right in front of my return pump in the sump. The only negative I can really report is that my snails seemed extra lethargic and would fall over more often. No casualties however over the 2 week treatment. I must have had both cyano and spirulana however because some areas got better and then would get taken over by some adjacent red junk. A couple weeks after the h2o2 treatment I went ahead and did Ultralife RSR, knocked out the rest of it and I have been looking good now.
lambchops
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Has anyone seen cyanobacteria that doesn't mat up but grows strands instead? I don't know if you can see the strands in the picture. I did take a bit out and did the test on it and the mixture turned pink.
jkobel
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@ Twilliard Thanks for all the research you are doing and sharing with the community!
I have had Cyano for many months and have tried many things. Chemiclean and H2O2 among them. Last round I tried of each neither worked. I'm curious about the H2O2 though as I'm now wondering if I was using it incorrectly.
I had been dosing 12ml 2x per day for my 75gal DT with 20gal sump, I am assuming 85gals of water volume. The dosage of 1.5ml/10gal I got from @DeepBrew on another thread where you helped him. I had no luck after 10 days but tell me if you think this was the problem. I had been pouring the dose directly into the overflow chamber. My thought was that this way it would not directly interact with any animals since it would first go to the sump and get mixed and then diluted through the return. BUT first it had to go through a filter sock, then the skimmer chamber and past the intake/return from the carbon/GFO and then to the DT return.
There was literally zero change in the cyano after this course of treatment (I had confirmed that it was cyano using your H2O2 test in 2 cups of tank water).
My questions are:
1. do you think this method of dosing could have somehow diminished the strength or effect of the H2O2?
2. what is the maximum safe dosage you would consider? At this point, I am considering trying 2ml per 10gal since I tried 1.5ml per 10 gal on the last round.
Thank you kind sir!
I have had Cyano for many months and have tried many things. Chemiclean and H2O2 among them. Last round I tried of each neither worked. I'm curious about the H2O2 though as I'm now wondering if I was using it incorrectly.
I had been dosing 12ml 2x per day for my 75gal DT with 20gal sump, I am assuming 85gals of water volume. The dosage of 1.5ml/10gal I got from @DeepBrew on another thread where you helped him. I had no luck after 10 days but tell me if you think this was the problem. I had been pouring the dose directly into the overflow chamber. My thought was that this way it would not directly interact with any animals since it would first go to the sump and get mixed and then diluted through the return. BUT first it had to go through a filter sock, then the skimmer chamber and past the intake/return from the carbon/GFO and then to the DT return.
There was literally zero change in the cyano after this course of treatment (I had confirmed that it was cyano using your H2O2 test in 2 cups of tank water).
My questions are:
1. do you think this method of dosing could have somehow diminished the strength or effect of the H2O2?
2. what is the maximum safe dosage you would consider? At this point, I am considering trying 2ml per 10gal since I tried 1.5ml per 10 gal on the last round.
Thank you kind sir!
drawman
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Todd thanks for all the work on this. I officially threw my hat in the H202 dosing ring after many hours of reading over the last couple of weeks. Threw in my second dose on my 60 gallon this morning.
gobble
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Did this procedure work? Is the link in the first post no longer good? I'm dealing with this right now and wondering if this treatment was proven effective. The link to the research project is only taking me to a page with a few really short paragraphs that barely touch on the subject.
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I'll claim the best known cyano treatment for 2019-2020 is the full tank cleaning including sandbed and full water change, we have a currently active 30 page thread on disassembly cleaning and it has the most cures I know of in one thread. Peroxide may or may not work on cyano, it never removes detritus that cyano feeds on and disassembly cleaning removes all the detritus in one pass, then gha and other invasions are left without feed. I claim nobody has more cyano fixes and testimonies than the sand rinse thread which doesn't use any water additives
If your tank is huge and a rip cleaning can't be done, twenty possible ways exist online for cyano care they're just not as consistent as direct access cleaning the whole tank at once
Peroxide use against cyano didn't take off after 2017 due to lack of consistent wins, not that peroxide is bad or ineffective when used other ways
If your tank is huge and a rip cleaning can't be done, twenty possible ways exist online for cyano care they're just not as consistent as direct access cleaning the whole tank at once
Peroxide use against cyano didn't take off after 2017 due to lack of consistent wins, not that peroxide is bad or ineffective when used other ways
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Official Sand Rinse and Tank Transfer thread
I need to to a tank swap out here in the next few weeks. same tank size just a full replacement. red sea 650P around 180ish gallons I have 2" of carib sea special grade my fav. sand. I plan to put the fish corals and LR in to a tank with HOB filter, flow heater and light for maybe (...
www.reef2reef.com
I vote that as best control method, it's pages of cleaning jobs to inspect. it is literally hundreds of reef tank jobs with an opening pic that can be used to match any future tank job, and then a tank cleaning run + after pic showing perfect restoration of the tank a few hours later.
findings after 9 yr running thread: it's best method available for nanos, and for large tanks it's too cumbersome of a cleaning process. it will beat any invasion in reefing for a tank 40 gallons and below...that's the approximate gallonage where attaining 100% new water for the post cleaning run isn't too much of a hassle, it's one simple full brute can of water we need to attain for the final assembly.
for 150 gallons for example, that's too much water/cost/time/headache and you'll probably have to try po4 and nitrate management, which is also a new dinos risk for using that method. rip cleaning fixes dinos, it can't cause them.
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The total water change is only after those disassembly cleanings, that's where the waste+ the invader cells are removed
Then refilled with all new water after total disassembly cleaning. The whole process is skip cycle and we never use bottle bac in the example thread. One deep clean run fixes cyano about 75% of the time. You can feed the system really well after our rip clean preps, fattening corals with clean vs invaded water quality
Reefers won't typically feed very well during outbreaks they're usually withholding feed to prevent overgrowth. That starves corals slowly over time, we're able to deep clean then immediately resume feeding and simple water changes. It will starve out invaders by sheer force while adding to coral mass to be feeding so well.
Then refilled with all new water after total disassembly cleaning. The whole process is skip cycle and we never use bottle bac in the example thread. One deep clean run fixes cyano about 75% of the time. You can feed the system really well after our rip clean preps, fattening corals with clean vs invaded water quality
Reefers won't typically feed very well during outbreaks they're usually withholding feed to prevent overgrowth. That starves corals slowly over time, we're able to deep clean then immediately resume feeding and simple water changes. It will starve out invaders by sheer force while adding to coral mass to be feeding so well.
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What's missing from that: any form of proof consisting of 48 pages of work in other people's reef tanks.
It's not harmful to try but your chance of success with it is about 5% likely
At that size gallonage a uv sterilizer will have 48 searchable pages of helping much better than Dr Tims additives, but you'll still have to be manually removing the growths so uv can clear suspended cells out of circulation. The point isn't what is easiest, it's finding what works and until you see a method ran in hundreds of other reefs you're looking at mainly sales gimmicks competing for your cash.
It's not harmful to try but your chance of success with it is about 5% likely
At that size gallonage a uv sterilizer will have 48 searchable pages of helping much better than Dr Tims additives, but you'll still have to be manually removing the growths so uv can clear suspended cells out of circulation. The point isn't what is easiest, it's finding what works and until you see a method ran in hundreds of other reefs you're looking at mainly sales gimmicks competing for your cash.
