Cyanobacteria

Michael Gray

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no matter how much WC and siphoning the sand and blowing it off rocks.. I have green cyano slime on sand and rocks.. little is red. mostly green i been having this for maybe 3 weeks or maybe a month. I Since, had ICP ATI test and po4 was .03 and no3 is 1.88. My red sea kit shows it well i say under 4ppm so its hard for me to tell per color matching. Numbers are now low. has been for 2 weeks.. Cyano comes back to sand 3 days later. I removed a bunch of rock in the middle of the tank to open up the water movement. I have flow. 100g tank 4 tunze 6095s. Ive read even if the issue was fixed. Cyano will stay and spread. I now have Chemiclean finally shipped. I was going to do it tomorrow. But I was told to save it and try other stuff first for i guess people had nightmares with Chemiclean brining other types of algaes after that are a PITA..

They mentioned Vinegar? Dosing vinegar will help rid Cyano?? if so i have a open dosing pump on my GHL kit i can start. but i dont want no3 to bottom out

Which should i start tomorrow? im tired of all this dam green slime cyano. its so unmotivating i wanna break the tank. lol

1.025
alk 8.0
CA is 430
temp 77.2
po4 .03ish on hanna.
no3 under 4ppm
 
I have never had a single issue with chemiclean and i have used it for probably thousands of gallons of water. Never lost a thing as a result. I think a lot of people who say they had a bad experience with it don't trust adding chemicals to their water to begin with and if they lose something after adding it they chalk it up to it being chemicleans fault. I just use it instead of chasing numbers and using home remedies which in my opinion can be even more harmful if done incorrectly
 
no matter how much WC and siphoning the sand and blowing it off rocks.. I have green cyano slime on sand and rocks.. little is red. mostly green i been having this for maybe 3 weeks or maybe a month. I Since, had ICP ATI test and po4 was .03 and no3 is 1.88. My red sea kit shows it well i say under 4ppm so its hard for me to tell per color matching. Numbers are now low. has been for 2 weeks.. Cyano comes back to sand 3 days later. I removed a bunch of rock in the middle of the tank to open up the water movement. I have flow. 100g tank 4 tunze 6095s. Ive read even if the issue was fixed. Cyano will stay and spread. I now have Chemiclean finally shipped. I was going to do it tomorrow. But I was told to save it and try other stuff first for i guess people had nightmares with Chemiclean brining other types of algaes after that are a PITA..

They mentioned Vinegar? Dosing vinegar will help rid Cyano?? if so i have a open dosing pump on my GHL kit i can start. but i dont want no3 to bottom out

Which should i start tomorrow? im tired of all this dam green slime cyano. its so unmotivating i wanna break the tank. lol

1.025
alk 8.0
CA is 430
temp 77.2
po4 .03ish on hanna.
no3 under 4ppm

I cleaned up the sandbed - changed out the carbon and filter socks before and after 2nd day - recommended was a two day blackout but I did a 3 day blackout. Did water change at night ( this is the time the bacteria is in the water column versus on the sand and rock ) used a turkey Baster tool to blow off the rocks. The Cyano is completely gone. I had hardly any coral which made it easier to do. Have to make sure to feed your coral and acclimate them to the normal lighting schedule within a three day period.
 
I have used chemiclean for 3 days for a brown slimy cyno as I over used gfo and striped all p04. It worked great. I used recommended dose and left my skimmer on but just took collection cup off.
 
I’ve never heard of nightmares with chemiclean. That stuff is sooooo gentle. Cyano magically disappears and there are no side effects. My SPS didn’t even fuss at all.
 
I used Chemiclean on one tank with cyano and it cleaned it right out. My display had cyano and Chemiclean affected it some but did not do the job. I used a vibrant and that seems to have done it.

I had no losses from chemiclean. So I would say from my experience, it is worth a try. But given my mixed results, it is not 100%. Also I would be hesitant to say that it is always safe.
 
I actually just ordered some for my tank. Have had problems with Cyno killing off my cuc and my watchman gobies. I have everything fixed for the natural remedy and it did clear up some but is not gone, so Chemiclean is on the way!
 
I just blasted rock and sand with turkey baster and dropped mesh 225 and felt 225 sock in. mesh clogged replaced with new one. And then pulled socks after water cleared. I'm going to do this every for nedr 3 days and see If blasting and filter socks are actual capable of removing them
 
If the Hanna is of the LR type (as HI-713) and you read 0.03 - it can be everything from 0-0.07. If it is a ULR type (HI-736 or HI-774) - it can be between t 0.01-0.04. And this is if your reading is accurate!!. That you get Cyano bacteria mats indicate (for me) that your PO4 is closer to 0 than anything else. I would rise the PO4 to around 0.08 - 0.1 (on your meter) and mechanical remove the mats every night. And I would also try to confirm that my NO3 levels really are around 3 ppm. After the mats is gone - slowly lower the PO4 down around 0.05-0.08 ppm



Sincerely Lasse
 
The problem with chemiclean is oxygen deprivation when the cyano dies off. It can indeed nuke a tank if you don't follow the directions. But following the directions is all you really need to do to be successful. If you don't have skimmer definitely add an airstone for the duration of the treatment to improve gas exchange.
 
The problem with chemiclean is oxygen deprivation when the cyano dies off. It can indeed nuke a tank if you don't follow the directions. But following the directions is all you really need to do to be successful. If you don't have skimmer definitely add an airstone for the duration of the treatment to improve gas exchange.
+1

only danger of using this, or a similar product like Red Slime stain remover.
 
If the Hanna is of the LR type (as HI-713) and you read 0.03 - it can be everything from 0-0.07. If it is a ULR type (HI-736 or HI-774) - it can be between t 0.01-0.04. And this is if your reading is accurate!!. That you get Cyano bacteria mats indicate (for me) that your PO4 is closer to 0 than anything else. I would rise the PO4 to around 0.08 - 0.1 (on your meter) and mechanical remove the mats every night. And I would also try to confirm that my NO3 levels really are around 3 ppm. After the mats is gone - slowly lower the PO4 down around 0.05-0.08 ppm



Sincerely Lasse
So raise po4 to rid cyano. Interesting. I use the ulr low phosphorus. And I don't have mats that come off in chunks. If I blow it it comes off in million pieces but blows off easy. And the sand. Turns green well the grains of sand doo. Not like a turf mat

Just tested po4. Shows 0 as of right now also testing no3 with red sea. The timer still has 7 minutes but jts clear. It's going to be low too
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With that NO3 level - I would rise it too!! If you adding any type of organic carbon source - stop that. In this case - I would add pure PO4 and NO3 into the water - not rise the feeding because you do not need anymore organics into the aquarium.

Sincerely Lasse
 
With that NO3 level - I would rise it too!! If you adding any type of organic carbon source - stop that. In this case - I would add pure PO4 and NO3 into the water - not rise the feeding because you do not need anymore organics into the aquarium.

Sincerely Lasse
So I'll raise po4 to about .05 first then no3 to 3 or 4?

And keep my feeding low
 
I got rid of mine with Dr. Tims refresh and waste away. It was amazing
 
When I battle cyano - I'm not afraid of PO4 levals around 0.08-0.1

But remember - it is experiences from my own aquariums - other can react differently.

Sincerely Lasse
Well I'll see what happens at .05p04 and like 4ppm no3

I dosed potassium phosphate got it to 2ppb. Dosed another 1ml. And now its 0 again. So I just dosed 3ml of Potass phosphate.
 

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