Cyanobacteria

[Subsea]

Sorry but I didn’t understand your answer. Is it safe to use Cyno Solution?

@JohnG123
The link that I provided is a pHd chemist and reef hobbiest of 50 years. Doctor Farley has written many articles on reef aquarium chemistry. Don’t take my word. Go to articles that are written by scientist. Yes he post to this forum.

 

[vetteguy53081]

What test kits are you using?
Are you using Tap water from faucet or RODI water?
Is this tank near a window?

While this is not a bloom, its a small case of cyano. You can do heavy siphoning at front of tank and see if it returns.
Some of the most common causes include:
- Protein skimmer which fills water with tiny air bubbles. As bubbles form from the reaction chamber, dissolved organic compound molecules stick to them. Foam forms at the surface of the water and is then transferred to a collection cup, where it rests as skimmate. When the protein skimmer does not output the best efficiency or you do not have the suitable protein skimmer to cover the tank, the air bubbles created by the skimmer might be insufficient. And this insufficiency of air bubbles can trigger the cyano to thrive.
- Overstocking / overfeeding, your aquarium with nutrients is often the culprit of a cyano bloom
- Adding live rock that isn’t completely cured which acts like a breeding ground for red slime algae
- If you don’t change your water with enough frequency, you’ll soon have a brightly colored red slime algae bloom. Regular water changes dilute nutrients that feed cyanobacteria and keeps your tank beautifully clear
- Using a water source with nitrates or phosphates is like rolling out the welcome mat for cyano. Tap water is an example
- Inadequate water flow, or movement, is a leading cause of cyano blooms. Slow moving water combined with excess dissolved nutrients is a recipe for pervasive red slime algae development

I recommend to reduce white light intensity or even turn them off for 5-7 days. Add liquid bacteria daily for a week during the day at 1.5ml per 10 gallons. Add Hydrogen peroxide at night at 1ml per 10 gallons. Add a pouch of chemipure Elite which will balance phos and nitrate and keep them in check.

 

[gbroadbridge]

Thanks

Good thing to keep in mind is that Cyano is simply a sign of some form of imbalance.

The cyano will become visible to consume the imbalance, and will die off again once the balance is corrected.

They're natures medic.

If you remove them by use of chemical or antibiotics, the bacteria are killed and the imbalance still exists.
So the cyano will come back again.

It is best to simply let it run its course, and keep in mind if it appears again it is coreecting a problem, in itself it is rarely a problem and even old mature tanks get it from time to time.

 

[Wick]

im no expert with this stuff but i just had it all over. i used chemiclean, a bubbler and brought my nitrate up some since it was at 0. 5 days and it was gone but way worse then your tank. did a 23% water change and going to add some carbon tonight when i get home to get the rest out. i have a reefer 170.

 

[IslandLifeReef]

Yes it’s safe to use. Follow the directions and provide extra circulation to accommodate greater oxygen demand.

The article you referenced only addressed Chemiclean, @JohnG123 is using a different product. How do you know that product is safe?

In the article you posted, @Randy Holmes-Farley stated that he would only use Chemiclean if the Cyano was bad enough even though he had used it.

IMO, if you can take the time to get rid of it naturally, I would do that instead of using chemicals. If the Cyano is causing a problem in you tank, then the chemical path may be the best way to go.

 

[Subsea]

What test kits are you using?
Are you using Tap water from faucet or RODI water?
Is this tank near a window?

While this is not a bloom, its a small case of cyano. You can do heavy siphoning at front of tank and see if it returns.
Some of the most common causes include:
- Protein skimmer which fills water with tiny air bubbles. As bubbles form from the reaction chamber, dissolved organic compound molecules stick to them. Foam forms at the surface of the water and is then transferred to a collection cup, where it rests as skimmate. When the protein skimmer does not output the best efficiency or you do not have the suitable protein skimmer to cover the tank, the air bubbles created by the skimmer might be insufficient. And this insufficiency of air bubbles can trigger the cyano to thrive.
- Overstocking / overfeeding, your aquarium with nutrients is often the culprit of a cyano bloom
- Adding live rock that isn’t completely cured which acts like a breeding ground for red slime algae
- If you don’t change your water with enough frequency, you’ll soon have a brightly colored red slime algae bloom. Regular water changes dilute nutrients that feed cyanobacteria and keeps your tank beautifully clear
- Using a water source with nitrates or phosphates is like rolling out the welcome mat for cyano. Tap water is an example
- Inadequate water flow, or movement, is a leading cause of cyano blooms. Slow moving water combined with excess dissolved nutrients is a recipe for pervasive red slime algae development

I recommend to reduce white light intensity or even turn them off for 5-7 days. Add liquid bacteria daily for a week during the day at 1.5ml per 10 gallons. Add Hydrogen peroxide at night at 1ml per 10 gallons. Add a pouch of chemipure Elite which will balance phos and nitrate and keep them in check.

So, adding peroxide is less invasive than ChemiClean. Really!

 

[vetteguy53081]

So, adding peroxide is less invasive than ChemiClean. Really!

yes. I find chemiClean as an alternative - not a solution and $20 for that little vial ??? Larger tanks require 3-4 of these vials IF they work on the issue

 

[Subsea]

The article you referenced only addressed Chemiclean, @JohnG123 is using a different product. How do you know that product is safe?

In the article you posted, @Randy Holmes-Farley stated that he would only use Chemiclean if the Cyano was bad enough even though he had used it.

IMO, if you can take the time to get rid of it naturally, I would do that instead of using chemicals. If the Cyano is causing a problem in you tank, then the chemical path may be the best way to go.

OP is not using anything. He merely asked how to get rid of cynobacteria

 

[Subsea]

yes. I find chemiClean as an alternative - not a solution and $20 for that little vial ??? Larger tanks require 3-4 of these vials IF they work on the issue

Seems to me that last week on a differrent thread, you advised a reefer to use peroxide protocol and he nuked his 5 year mature tank.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Seems to me that last week on a differrent thread, you advised a reefer to use peroxide protocol and he nuked his 5 year mature tank.

And he DM'd me and overdosed.

 

[vetteguy53081]

And he DM'd me and overdosed.

Peroxide is mainly water and if you pour too much- results will be obvious
1ml is literally nothing but lifts the bacteria

 

[Subsea]

Here’s what he posted on the thread:

Peroxide is mainly water and if you pour too much- results will be obvious
1ml is literally nothing but lifts the bacteria

I disagree. Peroxide is indiscriminate. It is a strong oxidizer. I have used it to keep swimming pools sparkling clean.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Here’s what he posted on the thread:


I disagree. Peroxide is indiscriminate. It is a strong oxidizer.

Peroxide has been used for years and even for treatment of ich. it IS an Oxidizer
Many of our industry pros use and recommend it and Ive used it in reef aquaria since 2004 without Any harmful effect.

here is one of Uses and findings by known Humblefish:

How To - Peroxide (H2O2) dosing for parasites in reef tank

***Current dosing recommendation for active outbreaks, using 3% hydrogen peroxide*** (a TLDR for people who just need to know how to get started) Week 1: 1mL/8g, 3x per day Week 2: 1mL/5g, 3x per day Week 3: 1mL/5g, 3x per day, plus overnight dosing. Continue the week 3 dosing regimen for a...

humble.fish

 

[Subsea]

Peroxide has been used for years and even for treatment of ich. it IS an Oxidizer
Many of our industry pros use and recommend it and Ive used it in reef aquaria since 2004 without Any harmful effect.

here is one of Uses and findings by known Humblefish:

How To - Peroxide (H2O2) dosing for parasites in reef tank

***Current dosing recommendation for active outbreaks, using 3% hydrogen peroxide*** (a TLDR for people who just need to know how to get started) Week 1: 1mL/8g, 3x per day Week 2: 1mL/5g, 3x per day Week 3: 1mL/5g, 3x per day, plus overnight dosing. Continue the week 3 dosing regimen for a...

humble.fish

I see a lot more problems overdosing with peroxide than ChemiClean. While I perform in tank spot treatment with peroxide, to batch treat peroxide in a tank without knowing the BOD of the system is reckless.

 

[IslandLifeReef]

Sorry but I didn’t understand your answer. Is it safe to use Cyno Solution?

Hey @JohnG123, it may be safe to use Cyano Solution, but I can't say for sure because I don't know what is in it. Chemiclean is safe if used properly, but doesn't discriminate between the bacteria that causes Cyano and other bacteria that may be beneficial.

The bottom line is, using product such as Cyano Solution may get rid of the Cyano for a while, but if you don't fix the cause of the Cyano, it will come back. Fixing the cause will get rid of it and prevent it from coming back. The main causes of Cyano are an imbalance of nutrients, poor flow, and an abundance of dissolved organics waste in the tank. Fix any of those that are problems, and the Cyano will be gone. In your case, there is definitely an imbalance of nutrients.

 

[JohnG123]

Hey @JohnG123, it may be safe to use Cyano Solution, but I can't say for sure because I don't know what is in it. Chemiclean is safe if used properly, but doesn't discriminate between the bacteria that causes Cyano and other bacteria that may be beneficial.

The bottom line is, using product such as Cyano Solution may get rid of the Cyano for a while, but if you don't fix the cause of the Cyano, it will come back. Fixing the cause will get rid of it and prevent it from coming back. The main causes of Cyano are an imbalance of nutrients, poor flow, and an abundance of dissolved organics waste in the tank. Fix any of those that are problems, and the Cyano will be gone. In your case, there is definitely an imbalance of nutrients.

Thanks everyone for your replies, they have all been most helpful. I am taking the manual approach to start with by increasing water flow, siphoning and water changes. I’ll monitor over the next couple of weeks.

 

[Freenow54]

ChemiClean is a gram negative bacteria probiotic. It does discriminate and it does work when directions are followed.

This back and forth with opinions is exactly why I hate the idea of dosing

 

[Freenow54]

I looked at your pictures. I have a similar problem in my new tank. I noticed your substrate is much deeper than mine. Did you disturb it? I did that with my older tank, and almost did crash it. Was just moving it to do floor. Anyway I am going to remove the problem area, and just replace the sand, as I found out the existing is so light I cannot siphon it. Just another thought

 

[IslandLifeReef]

Thanks everyone for your replies, they have all been most helpful. I am taking the manual approach to start with by increasing water flow, siphoning and water changes. I’ll monitor over the next couple of weeks.

Don't forget to get the NO3 higher. There is definitely and imbalance between your NO3 and PO4.

 

[IslandLifeReef]

I looked at your pictures. I have a similar problem in my new tank. I noticed your substrate is much deeper than mine. Did you disturb it? I did that with my older tank, and almost did crash it. Was just moving it to do floor. Anyway I am going to remove the problem area, and just replace the sand, as I found out the existing is so light I cannot siphon it. Just another thought

Those pictures were not from the OP's tank, it was from a different tank who was not having a Cyano problem and suggesting the use of Chemiclean.