Cycle question..

[GOSKN5]

I'm not knew to the hobby, but have always used live rock to start tanks... this time I used all dry rock and added ammonia..

So 2 weeks ago I added a bottle of Dr Tims one and only and pure ammonia up to 2ppm...

Waited a few days tested and ammonia was at .5ppm... checked nitrites and none...

Tested a week later and ammonia at. .25ppm and nitrites had shown up..

Tested a week later and ammonia still at the same level .25...

I know I still have a ways to go and I'm ok with that, but should I add more ammonia, or just wait until it drops to zero? Or do I need to add any more ammonia anytime at all?

Thanks for the help...

 

[brandon429]

That test kit you are using is known to show .25 as zero, and sometimes it's right per hundreds of search returns. Only a non API test kit can discern at that low level.

Another test option is to see if it can do 5 ppm down to .25

Start with higher digestion levels. If you're able to go 5 to .25 that means it's getting true zero but typically indicating as .25

there's no way it would always go from 2.0 to .25, and also 5 to .25 and not be hitting zero.

 

[GOSKN5]

Well I thought about that possibility and tested pure RODI water and it immediately showed 0 ammonia

 

[brandon429]

That helps to rule out bad test then.

The 5 ppm run is the definitive test. If it stops at .25 even from that level within 24 hrs something is off w tester. If it only goes down a little from that range in 24 hrs, kit seems right cycle not done

Two week to completion is on the faster scale of cycling, tops. It usually takes multiple 24 hr digestion tests using non API kit for ammonia to be sure to push that time frame. People ask for more than 2 ppm to push rules of speed cycling

If any variables are in doubt don't rush and wait a month, two weeks can only be attained using non API ammonia kits they simply vary at low levels. When they begin not to, the search returns about API and false .25 readings will cease.

 

[shoelaceike]

With SW an API ammonia test will show a slight green color....FW will be yellow...

 

[inetjnky]

Unless you have my API test kit. *laugh*

 

[GOSKN5]

O I'm not rushing regardless... planning to wait a month... just wanted to be sure I wasn't needing to do anything etc... looking at Dr tims instructions it seems I should spike the ammonia again and see if it processes

 

[inetjnky]

As soon as the ammonia level drops to zero then spike it to 3ppm (no higher the 4 imho) and repeat until you get to the point where digestion of ammonia and nitrites reaches zero in 24 hour period. One you reach that level test again for a few more days to be sure and if good you're cycle will be complete. At that point you can start your light cycle and add a CUC. Then wait a few weeks before adding anything else. Goalie because your bacteria is still building up to handle the level you want which is to add coral and fish.

 

[inetjnky]

Expect a diatom bloom as well during this period.

 

[inetjnky]

Goalie = go slow. Stupid autocorrect.

 

[GOSKN5]

I spiked ammonia last night back to 2ppm... Tested at lunch time and it's back down to .25ppm... also nitrites spiked higher than I have seen... and I showed some nitrates for first time...

 

[Whatnow]

I did the Dr. Tims way and it took 3 weeks with live sand and dead rock to do the basic cycle then 2 more weeks for the CUC and diatom bloom and now I've ordered 2 clown fish and in 2 weeks from now my first coral frag cause even if your tank has cycled on a newer tank and some cases older tanks you can cause a mini cycle if you add to much at any one time because of the established bacteria in your tank isn't enough to handle a bigger biological load.

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

That seems really really complicated. And kinda expensive.
Wouldn't a bag of live sand or old tank water or mb7 prime or stability then ghost feed and wait a month have been a lot easier.

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

There's no such thing as a mini cycle.

 

[Whatnow]

There's no such thing as a mini cycle.

I would think anytime you overstock a tank past the bacterial organisms ability to process the ammonia and nitrites would be considered as such....until it the bacteria can catch up to the new bioload.

 

[GOSKN5]

That seems really really complicated. And kinda expensive.
Wouldn't a bag of live sand or old tank water or mb7 prime or stability then ghost feed and wait a month have been a lot easier.

Not that complicated really.. and certainly not expensive.. cost me 40 bucks total... in this hobby that's nothing haha

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

Not that complicated really.. and certainly not expensive.. cost me 40 bucks total... in this hobby that's nothing haha

Hope all goes well. Guess I'm a chicken. That technique has always freaked me out.
And yea I've had $40 eaten by my $20 more than once.

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

I would think anytime you overstock a tank past the bacterial organisms ability to process the ammonia and nitrites would be considered as such....until it the bacteria can catch up to the new bioload.

Agreed but sooo many are confused by the actual term mini cycle.
A cycle is or isn't. The tank is cycling or it isn't.
Overloading the bio filter is just that.
You put too much in and clogged the filter.

I think if many were to think in these terms a lot of heartache would be saved and the action taken would less aggressive and sometimes stressful. For the tank and the aquarist.

Sorry guess it's a pet peeve of mine.

 

[GOSKN5]

So ammonia can be processed in 24 hours... but nitrites aren't budging... got a nasty response from Dr Tims saying I needed to read and do a water change because the cycle had stalled due to high nitrites... thoughts??

 

[inetjnky]

How high are the nitrites? It's possible to stall the cycle with nitrites 8ppm or higher. If so, do a 50% water change with matching temp and salinity. You should still have enough nitrites for the cycle to continue.