Cycling an Aquarium

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Okay, fair enough. XD I mean I am also curious about it to be honest, like above. Regardless, it is odd to read 0 nitrate in this case.
I did a 50% water change and that seems to have jump-started the cycle. 24 hours after the water change I still have 200+ppb Nitrite but Nitrate is now 4.6ppm. I'll do another water change and I am going to try and find a new ammonia test. Protein skimmer is not on yet. I ran it for a day before the water change just to try and tune it, with no luck.
 
I have a question for the group. Tried looking through this sub to see if my question was already but was lost in all the replies.

I recently pre-ordered a 100 gal aquarium. A big step up from my 30 gal. It is expected to arrive in august timeframe at my home. Please tell me if this will work or if I should wait until I get the tank to let it cycle.

Plan: Buy two 50 gal trash cans > place the rock I plan on using in the pre-ordered aquarium inside the cans > Fill with RODI water > add something to start cycle (e.g. shrimp), add a pump to turn water> cycle begins > aquarium arrives > transfer water and rocks to the aquarium > cycle is already complete so I can add fish/coral from 30 gal to 100 gal.

Will this work?
 
Plan: Buy two 50 gal trash cans > place the rock I plan on using in the pre-ordered aquarium inside the cans > Fill with RODI water > add something to start cycle (e.g. shrimp), add a pump to turn water> cycle begins > aquarium arrives > transfer water and rocks to the aquarium > cycle is already complete so I can add fish/coral from 30 gal to 100 gal.

Will this work?
Yes, it will work, though a few things.
1. When you say 'RODI' water, I presume you are talking about mixed saltwater right?
2. Personally I'd get two pieces of live rock to seed the rocks, or failing that, dosing bottled bac like FritzZyme, just to be sure you are getting the nitrifiers you'd want.
3. A heater might be a consideration, depending on how cold the area of the cycling is. But it is not really necessary, especially considering summer is coming up.
 
Yes, it will work, though a few things.
1. When you say 'RODI' water, I presume you are talking about mixed saltwater right?
2. Personally I'd get two pieces of live rock to seed the rocks, or failing that, dosing bottled bac like FritzZyme, just to be sure you are getting the nitrifiers you'd want.
3. A heater might be a consideration, depending on how cold the area of the cycling is. But it is not really necessary, especially considering summer is coming up.
Yes rodi then mix with saltwater. Live in Florida, avg temps are 70+ right now. Don't think a heater is necessary but will still look into it. Do I need to provide any source of light?
 
Yes rodi then mix with saltwater. Live in Florida, avg temps are 70+ right now. Don't think a heater is necessary but will still look into it. Do I need to provide any source of light?
No, light is not needed. 70+ should be fine, it's just about making sure it is not too cold as that does slow down the metabolism of the nitrifiers, but 70+ is plenty warm.

Good luck!
 
I started a cycle on a Red Sea Reefer 300XL (80g total system vol).
Started with Dr.Tim's One and Only bacteria startup + 4 Pajama Cardinals.
Been checking the water parameters all week and everything has been normal.
I have been feeding just enough each day for each of them to get a few nibbles.
They like mysis shrimp and flakes.
Today the water looks just a little foggy. Is this a bacteria bloom?
Parameters:
Ammonia: 0
Nitrite: 0.05
Nitrate: 2
Salinity: 34ppt
Temp: 78-80 avg.
 
I started a cycle on a Red Sea Reefer 300XL (80g total system vol).
Started with Dr.Tim's One and Only bacteria startup + 4 Pajama Cardinals.
Been checking the water parameters all week and everything has been normal.
I have been feeding just enough each day for each of them to get a few nibbles.
They like mysis shrimp and flakes.
Today the water looks just a little foggy. Is this a bacteria bloom?
Parameters:
Ammonia: 0
Nitrite: 0.05
Nitrate: 2
Salinity: 34ppt
Temp: 78-80 avg.
Yeah probs just a bacterial bloom. Careful it does not get too massive and deplete the tank of oxygen, but otherwise should be fine. I presume you started with live rock and/or some other sort of established biomedia? I mean the slight amount of nitrite throws me off just a little bit, so kinda wondering.
 
Yeah probs just a bacterial bloom. Careful it does not get too massive and deplete the tank of oxygen, but otherwise should be fine. I presume you started with live rock and/or some other sort of established biomedia? I mean the slight amount of nitrite throws me off just a little bit, so kinda wondering.
Started with Caribsea live sand + Marco dry rock + a plate of Marinepure bio media in the sump.
 
Started with Caribsea live sand + Marco dry rock + a plate of Marinepure bio media in the sump.
Gotcha. Yeah just be a bit careful with the stocking rate, sounds like your nitrifiers are still catching up with their growth. But otherwise re: bacterial bloom, is fine. Keep watch of your fish, see if they are breathing heavily. Otherwise not a problem.
 
My nitrite just doesn't want to get down, what can I do? Is it good to do a water change? 4 weeks with biological accelerator..
 
Its high, above 2
It may be possible it is going down, just slowly so hard to register with your test kit (depending on what you use). For example with the API test kit it is pretty hard to differentiate between 2 and 5ppm. How long was it from when it first 'spiked' until now?
 
It may be possible it is going down, just slowly so hard to register with your test kit (depending on what you use). For example with the API test kit it is pretty hard to differentiate between 2 and 5ppm. How long was it from when it first 'spiked' until now?
About one week ago was the first spike, Im using biological accelerator e throwing small portions of pellets everyday
 
Hi all, about 10 days into my fishless cycle (seeded with Bio-Spira and live sand, but otherwise dry rock) dosing ammonia. I am using the Red Sea test kit and have seen ammonia spike initially and now register at 0 ppm for several days. However, I don't have much clarity on the nitrite and nitrate readings. The tests seem to be a slightly different color spectrum and I haven't been confident with the results. I wonder if the 'A' bottle was tampered with, because when I first opened the kit, it seemed a bit disheveled and the 'A' bottle had a little bit of moisture on it. Any ideas or insight would be much appreciated!
IMG-4910.jpg
 
About one week ago was the first spike, Im using biological accelerator e throwing small portions of pellets everyday
So to preface this, one thing to note is that nitrite is non-lethal to marine fish until it reaches super high concentrations, like 100+ ppm or so, may only be toxic at 25ppm anyways. So 2ppm is far from that.

With that said, one possible reason why nitrite is not decreasing as fast as expected is simply because there's always some nitrite being produced from you adding the pellets everyday, so I would recommend stopping that. Looks like you are doing a fishless cycle, so I presume you are adding the pellets to feed the nitrifiers? That's not necessary. They go for a long time ammonia-starved, and synthesize their own organic compounds anyways.
 
Hi all, about 10 days into my fishless cycle (seeded with Bio-Spira and live sand, but otherwise dry rock) dosing ammonia. I am using the Red Sea test kit and have seen ammonia spike initially and now register at 0 ppm for several days. However, I don't have much clarity on the nitrite and nitrate readings. The tests seem to be a slightly different color spectrum and I haven't been confident with the results. I wonder if the 'A' bottle was tampered with, because when I first opened the kit, it seemed a bit disheveled and the 'A' bottle had a little bit of moisture on it. Any ideas or insight would be much appreciated!
IMG-4910.jpg
Hey there. I'd recommend checking something that should have 0 nitrite, like the water you use for your salt mix or something and see if your nitrite test kit indeed measures 0 nitrite - which at least says it can differentiate between presence and absence of nitrite.

It's not unexpected for the colors to be hard to read. I think a lot of people have trouble with the Red Sea test kit colors lol. So you can always take it as more of a presence or absence of nitrite than anything, which is kinda essentially the more important thing.

Also, so long as your nitrite reading is >0ppm, then there's not too much of a point in measuring nitrate. This is because the nitrate test kit actually converts a portion to nitrite, then measures that as a proxy, so if there is already nitrite in the water it will cause the nitrate test kit to read falsely high.
 
So to preface this, one thing to note is that nitrite is non-lethal to marine fish until it reaches super high concentrations, like 100+ ppm or so, may only be toxic at 25ppm anyways. So 2ppm is far from that.

With that said, one possible reason why nitrite is not decreasing as fast as expected is simply because there's always some nitrite being produced from you adding the pellets everyday, so I would recommend stopping that. Looks like you are doing a fishless cycle, so I presume you are adding the pellets to feed the nitrifiers? That's not necessary. They go for a long time ammonia-starved, and synthesize their own organic compounds anyways.
Ow, that's awesome then, its indeed a fishless cycle, do u think that I can introduce them now?
 
Ow, that's awesome then, its indeed a fishless cycle, do u think that I can introduce them now?
So this then depends on how well your aquarium is handling ammonia. That's kinda hard in some cases whereby your ammonia source is fish food as it may take a while to decompose and release ammonia, etc. etc., but in this case presuming you've been adding fish food daily for a while and ammonia is 0 (or 0.25ppm, with the API test kit), then it sounds like ammonia-oxidation capacity is up to par. So yes, you can probably add fish now.
 
Hey there. I'd recommend checking something that should have 0 nitrite, like the water you use for your salt mix or something and see if your nitrite test kit indeed measures 0 nitrite - which at least says it can differentiate between presence and absence of nitrite.

It's not unexpected for the colors to be hard to read. I think a lot of people have trouble with the Red Sea test kit colors lol. So you can always take it as more of a presence or absence of nitrite than anything, which is kinda essentially the more important thing.

Also, so long as your nitrite reading is >0ppm, then there's not too much of a point in measuring nitrate. This is because the nitrate test kit actually converts a portion to nitrite, then measures that as a proxy, so if there is already nitrite in the water it will cause the nitrate test kit to read falsely high.
Thanks — very helpful! I did a baseline test a few days ago (for ammonia, should've done it for nitrites as well lol) with my pre-tank water and it seemed fine so I kept pushing along. Upon just doing it for nitrites, it barely registered a color so, like you said, at least now I can verify that the testing is working!

Given this, it seems my plan of action should be to stop dosing ammonia and wait for the nitrospira to develop more and observe lower levels of nitrites? I've been adding Microbacter7 the past few days so probably will continue.
 

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