Cycling

[Steven27]

My aquarium has been cycling is Tuesday last week. I put some dr.Tim’s ammonia chloride drops in yesterday around noon and unchecked the results today. I know the instructions say to keep dosing on the third day but with these resigns would I just let the ammonia and nitrites drop to 0 then it’s good? As long as the nitrates are tolerable. These pictures are from today.

 

[brandon429]

we had covered it’s already done cycling


focus on disease prevention vs any more testing. have you chosen to fallow and quarantine

You didn’t need to add ammonia, it was cycled per above reviews, the extra metabolites cloud api, make it read untrue. Don’t add pet store fish to the tank without prep, though it can carry ten.

 

[Steven27]

we had covered it’s already done cycling


you need to be focusing on disease prevention vs any more testing. have you chosen to fallow and quarantine

You didn’t need to add ammonia, it was cycled per above reviews, the extra metabolites cloud api, make it read untrue. The hyperfocus is removing focus on fish disease preps is it true there’s roughly a 100% chance unprepped fish store fish are going in soon

I just really wanted to make sure before I go into disease prevention and add fish Eventually that I don’t waste my money.

 

[TnFishwater98]

My aquarium has been cycling is Tuesday last week. I put some dr.Tim’s ammonia chloride drops in yesterday around noon and unchecked the results today. I know the instructions say to keep dosing on the third day but with these resigns would I just let the ammonia and nitrites drop to 0 then it’s good? As long as the nitrates are tolerable. These pictures are from today.

Welcome to Da Reef!

 

[Idech]

I know the instructions say to keep dosing on the third day but with these resigns would I just let the ammonia and nitrites drop to 0 then it’s good?

I don’t think you’re done cycling at all and would certainly not add fish until ammonia and nitrites go down to 0. And you’ve done a water change to bring down the nitrates.

I wouldn’t add anymore ammonia. Let this cycle do it’s thing. Just keep testing regularly and when it’s done, you can test its stability by adding a bit of ammonia and if it disappears in 24 hours, then you’re good to go.

Best way to ensure your fish will live.

 

[Soren]

My aquarium has been cycling is Tuesday last week. I put some dr.Tim’s ammonia chloride drops in yesterday around noon and unchecked the results today. I know the instructions say to keep dosing on the third day but with these resigns would I just let the ammonia and nitrites drop to 0 then it’s good? As long as the nitrates are tolerable. These pictures are from today.

From what I understand about cycling, this test does not look like your tank is fully cycling yet.
It may have bioload-carrying capabilities with enough bacteria to handle the ammonia, but I think the best way to know for sure is to measure how long it takes for the ammonia to get consumed (and may also be indicated when nitrites are also consumed). You should see building nitrates to prove that your tank is cycling. The critical component is not that ammonia and nitrite drop to zero, but how long it takes for them (at least ammonia) to drop to zero.

One thing here, I don't think it will be harmful to do double-checks and have patience to confirm that your tank is cycling. This is also general advice, as I have not yet read details about your tank beyond this thread.

 

[Logical_Plan]

Trust Brandon here. He has put in all the work on cycling and rip cleans! Too many armchair posters without any data to back them up. Dr. Tim's finishes on time all the time.

Disease prevention is key too!

 

[Garf]

Trust Brandon here. He has put in all the work on cycling and rip cleans! Too many armchair posters without any data to back them up. Dr. Tim's finishes on time all the time.

Disease prevention is key too!

You’ve been brainwashed. This cycle is nowhere near complete, fact. It’s borderline hazardous with a high pH, another fact.

 

[Soren]

Trust Brandon here. He has put in all the work on cycling and rip cleans! Too many armchair posters without any data to back them up. Dr. Tim's finishes on time all the time.

Disease prevention is key too!

Though I respect Brandon's experience in this, I think it can be foolhardy to recommend too quickly to beginners that tests are always faulty and the tank is already cycling. There is a big difference between being confident in one's own experiences and abilities and giving advice to someone else assuming they are capable of acting perfectly according to the advice and the understanding behind offering the advice.

Without a time test for ammonia consumption (which I think is directly recommended in Dr. Tim's procedures?) the level of bacteria populations are not determined.

...and although Brandon could be right in this case and the tank could be safe, there is no harm in having a bit of patience and verifying before stocking. The OP is the one who takes the risk of the decision, so it becomes a personal choice how much risk should be taken for potential loss of life and investment.

 

[Logical_Plan]

You’ve been brainwashed. This cycle is nowhere near complete, fact. It’s borderline hazardous with a high pH, another fact.

Maybe, but I also watched my own tank cycle with a seneye and it was predictable, per the Dr. Tim's chart. NH3 was under control after the 14 days.

Again I would trust Brandon, his work lines up with what many with more precise test kits observe.

Being more cautious is fine too. Wait if you want. Run your reef however you like. But NH3+NH4 is a low resolution test. Free ammonia is what matters. Use the hazma reef calculator to see what your free ammonia numbers are.

 

[Little c big D]

Maybe, but I also watched my own tank cycle with a seneye and it was predictable, per the Dr. Tim's chart. NH3 was under control after the 14 days.

Again I would trust Brandon, his work lines up with what many with more precise test kits observe.

Being more cautious is fine too. Wait if you want. Run your reef however you like. But NH3+NH4 is a low resolution test. Free ammonia is what matters. Use the hazma reef calculator to see what your free ammonia numbers are.

You said 14 days. Is my math off? OP started last Tuesday. That's 9 days ago? The problem with brandons advice isn't always what he says, it's the forcefulness of it. It comes of as he is belittling experienced reefers. It's also how you're talking to OP and these other reefers who have success in their tanks. Offer advice but don't talk down about others.

To the point of this cycle, waiting a few days and monitoring the rate of consumption is good advice. It also helps a new reefer understand the process and take stock in their new tank.

 

[Garf]

Maybe, but I also watched my own tank cycle with a seneye and it was predictable, per the Dr. Tim's chart. NH3 was under control after the 14 days.

Again I would trust Brandon, his work lines up with what many with more precise test kits observe.

Being more cautious is fine too. Wait if you want. Run your reef however you like. But NH3+NH4 is a low resolution test. Free ammonia is what matters. Use the hazma reef calculator to see what your free ammonia numbers are.

Ok, and I guess in a few days it will be acceptable. By your experiment you showed it took 14 days, not 9.

 

[Logical_Plan]

You said 14 days. Is my math off? OP started last Tuesday. That's 9 days ago? The problem with brandons advice isn't always what he says, it's the forcefulness of it. It comes of as belittling experienced reefer. It's also how you're talking to OP and these other reefers with success in their tanks. Offer advice but don't talk down about others.

To the point of this cycle, waiting a few days and monitoring the rate of consumption is good advice. It also helps a new reefer understand the process and take stock in their new tank.

Day 9 is add fish, day 14 is water change. My bad. I think of Dr. Tim's as a two week start up. Again Seneye shows ammonia is being processed quickly before day 9 anyway.

I am all for going slowly and learning as you go. I mean I am running my brand new tank fallow for 76 days before I add fish. Everyone will start their own way, but bottled back start gets you there on time.

What you do after nitrogen cycle is key, you are adding more variables to mange then. Disease vectors (bio security). As well as water parameter stability. Waiting on managing these parameters is like trying to avoid the ugly stage with a dry start. You have to figure it out sometime.

 

[Little c big D]

Day 9 is add fish, day 14 is water change. My bad. I think of Dr. Tim's as a two week start up. Again Seneye shows ammonia is being processed quickly before day 9 anyway.

I am all for going slowly and learning as you go. I mean I am running my brand new tank fallow for 76 days before I add fish. Everyone will start their own way, but bottled back start gets you there on time.

What you do after nitrogen cycle is key, you are adding more variables to mange then. Disease vectors (bio security). As well as water parameter stability. Waiting on managing these parameters is like trying to avoid the ugly stage with a dry start. You have to figure it out sometime.

That's good info thank you. It's good to know that there are multiple avenues that can be successful.

 

[Steven27]

I don’t think you’re done cycling at all and would certainly not add fish until ammonia and nitrites go down to 0. And you’ve done a water change to bring down the nitrates.

I wouldn’t add anymore ammonia. Let this cycle do it’s thing. Just keep testing regularly and when it’s done, you can test its stability by adding a bit of ammonia and if it disappears in 24 hours, then you’re good to go.

Best way to ensure your fish will live.

Okay I appreciate the feedback!

 

[Steven27]

I

From what I understand about cycling, this test does not look like your tank is fully cycling yet.
It may have bioload-carrying capabilities with enough bacteria to handle the ammonia, but I think the best way to know for sure is to measure how long it takes for the ammonia to get consumed (and may also be indicated when nitrites are also consumed). You should see building nitrates to prove that your tank is cycling. The critical component is not that ammonia and nitrite drop to zero, but how long it takes for them (at least ammonia) to drop to zero.

One thing here, I don't think it will be harmful to do double-checks and have patience to confirm that your tank is cycling. This is also general advice, as I have not yet read details about your tank beyond this thread.

will be doing some double checks not sure if it’s worth adding but I put some bio spira in the tank last firday.

 

[Steven27]

You said 14 days. Is my math off? OP started last Tuesday. That's 9 days ago? The problem with brandons advice isn't always what he says, it's the forcefulness of it. It comes of as belittling experienced reefer. It's also how you're talking to OP and these other reefers with success in their tanks. Offer advice but don't talk down about others.

To the point of this cycle, waiting a few days and monitoring the rate of consumption is good advice. It also helps a new reefer understand the process and take stock in their new tank.

I will be doing some double checking in the next couple days to make sure everything looks correct. This is my first saltwater tank it’s been a while just trying to make sure everything is perfect.

 

[Soren]

I

will be doing some double checks not sure if it’s worth adding but I put some bio spira in the tank last firday.

I'm not sure how big of an issue it is, but it is usually not recommended to combine different brands of bottled bacteria to initially get a tank cycling due to competition between different bacteria strains. Though ultimately the bacteria will compete and will still become established, it may be possible that it causes a delay. I'm just going from memory, but I am pretty sure all bottle bacteria brands, including Dr. Tim's specifically, recommend not to combine with other bacteria.

The worst likely outcome for you now that you already used more than one bacteria source is just that it may take a bit longer to initially reach a point where the bacteria populations stabilize and your tank is cycling to convert ammonia at a fast enough pace to equate to desired bioload.

Sorry if any of this seems over-wordy or confusing. I try to avoid over-explaining while also including all information I think is pertinent. Just ask if you want clarification on anything I said as well as getting information and advice from the others here, as I will not claim to know everything.

 

[brandon429]

Be sure and click his links prior shown


clues: live rock used

diatoms growing all over tank

24 hour bottle bac applied a while ago

that’s his layout, what he can use is more surface area not more bacteria


he’s at the diatoms growth phase we can see in posts and other pics. In all of recorded history, anyone at the diatoms phase is cycled, we would not factor nitrite is my takeaway from this published material

http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2005-06/rhf/index.php

if he was posting numbers from a hanna digital nitrite checker we could factor it, but not using the brand test kit that in another thread read polar opposite of red sea on the same water sample



I realize Lasse says to factor nitrite

Randy doesn’t, I prefer Randy’s article to Lasses web posts.

 

[nereefpat]

That does not look like live rock to me. I would wait until ammonia is 0.25 or less to add fish.

would I just let the ammonia and nitrites drop to 0 then it’s good?

Yes. And I wouldn't add any more ammonia.