DI COLOR CHANGE RESIN

[renato120]

On your TDS meter can you switch the display over to see what the TDS coming into your unit is? Looks like it's setup to measure what's coming into the unit prefilters and then what your product water is...

 

[JoshH]

So, might be a huge pain in the butt, but can you move the one sensor between the RO membrane and the DI stage?

 

[renato120]

So, might be a huge pain in the butt, but can you move the one sensor between the RO membrane and the DI stage?

Not sure what you mean.

 

[Ucyibd1]

Not sure what you mean.

You want to measure the TDS coming out of the membrane going into the DI cartridge and then again coming out of the DI cartridge

 

[JoshH]

Not sure what you mean.

Can you move this sensor circled below to between your RO membrane and your DI chamber? It's important to know how your membrane is actually performing right now.

 

[clm65]

This may be a stupid question, but I figured it can’t hurt to ask...are you sure the Rodi unit is plumbed correctly? Sediment to carbon to ro membrane to di? And the “clean” outlet (not the waste outlet) from the membrane is going to the di?

 

[renato120]

This may be a stupid question, but I figured it can’t hurt to ask...are you sure the Rodi unit is plumbed correctly? Sediment to carbon to ro membrane to di? And the “clean” outlet (not the waste outlet) from the membrane is going to the di?

Yes it’s all hooked up correctly

 

[Ucyibd1]

Also make sure when you reload the DI cartridge, that you pack it pretty good. DI resin is a mix of cation/anion and if it isn't packed in pretty good it will separate as water flows from bottom to top.

 

[Technewb]

40g per di is bad. Mine last me 5months and i do 30g rodi a week. I usually change di 2x a year only. Make sure you let your water run for 15min through the membrane before you connect to di everytime so it flushes out tds buildup from the membrane. Connect to di after 15min.

 

[renato120]

40g per di is bad. Mine last me 5months and i do 30g rodi a week. I usually change di 2x a year only. Make sure you let your water run for 15min through the membrane before you connect to di everytime so it flushes out tds buildup from the membrane. Connect to di after 15min.

Are you serious?? 5 months??? 2 hours running it and half gets brown

 

[TaylorPilot]

You're really going to need to test for a few things to see what is going on. First thing I would do is get a report from the city and see if they are using free chlorine or chloramine. Then get some test kits for chlorine. See if they are breaking through the carbon blocks. Chloramine is pretty much chlorine bound to ammonia. It doesn't break down easy and can flow through brand new carbon blocks if it isn't designed to absorb it. It passes right through an RO membrane as well. Meaning it goes straight to your DI, where it has to absorb it. There is a little debate about which filters absorb it the best. Pentek makes some specifically designed for it. I personally would run a sediment filter (that that has a smaller absolute micron rating smaller than your carbon blocks), then dual carbon blocks. Also, check the flow rates between your treated water and your waste water. Depending on the hardness of your water, you may need to turn up your waste water to flush the membrane better. As others have said, you should let your ro run for a few minutes dumping it down the drain so that the tds has a chance to go down before putting it through your DI, although that would not cause you to burn through an entire canister in 8 hours. That is nuts. Another thing you might want to check is the PH of your tap water. High levels of CO2 will totally destroy DI, and none of your other filters have any effect on it. There are several things that could be causing you issues, but none of it is insurmountable. Just have to track down the issue and correct it.

 

[Technewb]

Are you serious?? 5 months??? 2 hours running it and half gets brown

Yes my current di im using was bought on november 2018. I changed it in around 2019 summer time and still have 1/4 left thats still blue. Getting 0 tds out and 5tds in. I buy my di resin on black friday because of the 15% off @BRS. I have another I just got this past Nov, waiting to go in. 30g rodi a week and last me about 5 months. Im using the brs rodi 150gpd with pressure pump @ 80psi.

 

[Johnd651]

I believe you said city water.. what city? Let's see if we can find a water report.

 

[litenyaup]

Chlorine or chloramines will not show up on or as TDS. Also they will not deplete DI resign just carbon block filters. If you have a low in coming TDS, and your RO filters are in good shape you should be getting a much longer life from DI resigns. You need to swap you sensor around to see what your TDS is coming out of the RO filters. You may need to replace those more often thank every two years.

Also depending on what chemicals your local
Utilities Dept is using you may be getting a lot that is missed by the carbon blocks and wrecking you RO membranes. The reason for minerals getting by is the chloramines are breaking down the carbon filters prematurely and allowing them to do the same to RO membranes.

 

[renato120]

You're really going to need to test for a few things to see what is going on. First thing I would do is get a report from the city and see if they are using free chlorine or chloramine. Then get some test kits for chlorine. See if they are breaking through the carbon blocks. Chloramine is pretty much chlorine bound to ammonia. It doesn't break down easy and can flow through brand new carbon blocks if it isn't designed to absorb it. It passes right through an RO membrane as well. Meaning it goes straight to your DI, where it has to absorb it. There is a little debate about which filters absorb it the best. Pentek makes some specifically designed for it. I personally would run a sediment filter (that that has a small absolute micron rating smaller than your carbon blocks), then dual carbon blocks. Also, check the flow rates between your treated water and your waste water. Depending on the hardness of your water, you may need to turn up your waste water to flush the membrane better. As others have said, you should let your ro run for a few minutes dumping it down the drain so that the tds has a chance to go down before putting it through your DI, although that would not cause you to burn through an entire canister in 8 hours. That is nuts. Another thing you might want to check is the PH of your tap water. High levels of CO2 will totally destroy DI, and none of your other filters have any effect on it. There are several things that could be causing you issues, but none of it is insurmountable. Just have to track down the issue and correct it.

This so complicated!! I cant do this.....

 

[renato120]

I believe you said city water.. what city? Let's see if we can find a water report.

Nashua, NH

 

[TaylorPilot]

This so complicated!! I cant do this.....

The test I am talking about will cost you $30. You are spending that every few weeks in DI. I would buy it from your LFS before I would keep blowing through DI like that. I would bet the two things that are probably the issue are Chloramines or CO2.

 

[TaylorPilot]

Also they will not deplete DI resign just carbon block filters. If you have a low in coming TDS, and your RO filters are in good shape you should be getting a much longer life from DI resigns.

This is not what I have heard and read over the years. Chloramines will 100% be removed from DI and it will burn through it really fast. Ultimately, the two things that would really tear through DI like he is describing won't be picked up by a TDS meter. Chloramines that are present at legal levels in drinking water will almost no effect on an RO membrane, and the membrane will have no effect on them. You have to have a specialized carbon block that can break the chlorine from the ammonia, so the chlorine is absorbed by the carbon and the ammonia is left to be picked up by the DI. I would check to see if it is blowing through a new carbon block. If it is, that is probably your problem. After that I would check the PH of the tap water. If it is low, you probably have high CO2 levels and that is burning through the DI.

 

[renato120]

The test I am talking about will cost you $30. You are spending that every few weeks in DI. I would buy it from your LFS before I would keep blowing through DI like that. I would bet the two things that are probably the issue are Chloramines or CO2.

Where donI buy the test? Its a chloramines test kit?

 

[The Aquatic Arsenal]

It is a chlorine test. BRStv did a series of videos one this.