Diatom filter for treating external parasites?

Keepswiming · Mar 24, 2019

soffutt said:
Just a thought for any wine who would like to use this technique of parasite control. If you are stocking a new tank for much less money you could employ a Marineland Magnum internal polisher in you QT tank. Filter is about $45 and with DE powder you are in this set up for $60-80. For bigger applications a Vortex, larger pleated cartridge or a pool filter would make sense but for a small application the magnum has potential.

I am stocking a new 120 build and would love to give this a try. Any write-ups or videos of the process that you know of? Or I can just go through this entire thread and figure it out. Thanks!

Feet4Fish · Mar 24, 2019

Keepswiming said:
I am stocking a new 120 build and would love to give this a try. Any write-ups or videos of the process that you know of? Or I can just go through this entire thread and figure it out. Thanks!

Reefs.com has a YouTube video on the magnum as a DE filter done by reefwiser.

MnFish1 · Mar 24, 2019

soffutt said:
Just a thought for any wine who would like to use this technique of parasite control. If you are stocking a new tank for much less money you could employ a Marineland Magnum internal polisher in you QT tank. Filter is about $45 and with DE powder you are in this set up for $60-80. For bigger applications a Vortex, larger pleated cartridge or a pool filter would make sense but for a small application the magnum has potential.

I tried one - problem was (granted it was a larger tank) it clogged within 24 hours. Finally I just gave up.

ReefWithCare · Apr 3, 2019

I started using a MarineLand polishing filter as a supplement to my QT process. I run it during the copper ramp up timeframe as extra insurance.

I use the DE food grade from amazon. ML gives you easy to follow instructions. Get a bucket of RODI and add in 6 tablespoons of DE with the filter and let it run until the water is clear then throw it in your QT. I use it in a 20 and 29G QT

reefwiser · Apr 3, 2019

MnFish1 said:
I tried one - problem was (granted it was a larger tank) it clogged within 24 hours. Finally I just gave up.

A DE filter if you want to run it a long time in the tank. All you have to do is buy a spare filter. When you see a lot of bubbles coming out that means the filter is clogged and needs to be cleaned and recharged with DE, So what I do is remove the Filter then remove the old cartridge filter. Clean the filter housing install the new filter. Then charge the filter with DE and put it back in the tank. I then take the clogged filter and using my hands I clean all the DE off the filter under running water. Then place the filter in a bucket of 50/50 bleach for 24 hours to sanitize the filter and be ready for the next time to use.

HomeSlizzice · May 8, 2019

Question if using a brs reactor with a 1 micron sediment filter...

So, with the water we are concerned about the theronts, right?

So I basically gleened my idea from combining some info from this thread and a thread by @FarmerTy ( https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/ttm-in-conjunction-with-uv.224489/ ) with some info from @cmcoker ...

"My idea would be , tank 1 for 3 days, have tank 2 filled with new water and ready, move fish in there. Pump water from tank 1 to tank 3 via UV, circulate with UV; sterilize tank 1. After 3 days, pump tank 3 back into tank 1, move fish into tank 1. Pump tank 2 water into tank 3 with UV and circulate, sterilize tank 2. repeat until done.

So, basically tank 3 is for processing water with UV between transfers."

Knowing the current life cycles of Ich and Velvet you could also speed up the times between transfers to every 36 (24-46) hours (velvet has a 48 window). Or just stick with the 72 hour max for Ich.

I think this could theoretically be done with a sediment filter instead of UV, correct?

Example:
1. Tank 1 for 36 hours, have tank 2 filled with new water and ready, move fish in there.
2. Pump water from tank 1 to tank 3 via 1 micron Sediment filter which should filter tank 1/3 water of parasites. Sanitize and Dry tank 1.
3. After 36 hours, transfer fish from tank 2 to tank 3.
4. Pump tank 2 water back into tank 1 via 1 micron Sediment filter which should filter tank 2 water of parasites. Sanitize and Dry tank 2.
5. repeat process

Could any parasites slip by?

This could be a way to save water for those who are concerned about total water usage, salt cost, etc... Thoughts?

HomeSlizzice · May 17, 2019

HomeSlizzice said:
Question if using a brs reactor with a 1 micron sediment filter...

So, with the water we are concerned about the theronts, right?

So I basically gleened my idea from combining some info from this thread and a thread by @FarmerTy ( https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/ttm-in-conjunction-with-uv.224489/ ) with some info from @cmcoker ...

"My idea would be , tank 1 for 3 days, have tank 2 filled with new water and ready, move fish in there. Pump water from tank 1 to tank 3 via UV, circulate with UV; sterilize tank 1. After 3 days, pump tank 3 back into tank 1, move fish into tank 1. Pump tank 2 water into tank 3 with UV and circulate, sterilize tank 2. repeat until done.

So, basically tank 3 is for processing water with UV between transfers."

Knowing the current life cycles of Ich and Velvet you could also speed up the times between transfers to every 36 (24-46) hours (velvet has a 48 window). Or just stick with the 72 hour max for Ich.

I think this could theoretically be done with a sediment filter instead of UV, correct?

Example:
1. Tank 1 for 36 hours, have tank 2 filled with new water and ready, move fish in there.
2. Pump water from tank 1 to tank 3 via 1 micron Sediment filter which should filter tank 1/3 water of parasites. Sanitize and Dry tank 1.
3. After 36 hours, transfer fish from tank 2 to tank 3.
4. Pump tank 2 water back into tank 1 via 1 micron Sediment filter which should filter tank 2 water of parasites. Sanitize and Dry tank 2.
5. repeat process

Could any parasites slip by?

This could be a way to save water for those who are concerned about total water usage, salt cost, etc... Thoughts?

Anyone try this or have feedback?

Seadoc · Jun 9, 2019

A few of thoughts/questions:
1) It seems that the biggest "problem" with DE filters is their propensity for clogging after a few hours/days. Would it be feasible to create a staggered filtering system so bigger particles are filtered before the DE canister? Same thing could be postulated for "BRS-type" sediment filters. Using a stepped filtering approach could avoid depleting the capacity of the small pore filters too soon.
2) I have been trying to find without luck information regarding any parasite attachment mechanisms to the substrate. Are the encysting forms easy to dislodge or do they secure themselves to the substrate and can not be easily pushed into the water column?
3) Although it is likely that DE filters can't eradicate parasitic infections in DTs, I wonder if this is possible in a QT environment where there are fewer places for cystic forms to hide and agitation of the QT bottom is easily done. I saw in this thread that some have used DE filters as part of quarantine protocols. For those who have, are there any differences in quarantine time or need for chemicals/medications when using DE or any other 1 micron filters? Do you agitate/aspirate the bottom of the QT when you suspect ich/velvet? If this holds, it may be a great approach for new systems to avoid introduction of parasites through fish and I wonder if it could also be extrapolated to inverts/corals.

skr791346 · Jun 28, 2019

Is there a difference between food grade DE powder vs pool shop DE powder? Looking to purchase on Amazon but wanted to make sure to get the right type.

reefwiser · Jun 28, 2019

You want to use Pool grade. It is made for filtration.

https://www.absorbentproductsltd.co...s-pool-grade-diatomaceous-earth-the-dl-on-de/

skr791346 · Jun 28, 2019

Got it! Will order this one instead
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002WKK6WI/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A9HEF3NCNW35R&psc=1

Fudsey · Jun 28, 2019

Food grade is too fine and will clog the filter faster.

Paul B · Jun 29, 2019

Food grade doesn't work at all. I (stupidly) have a bag of it and water doesn't flow through it

ReefWithCare · Jun 30, 2019

Paul B said:
Food grade doesn't work at all. I (stupidly) have a bag of it and water doesn't flow through it

What do you recommend to use Paul?

Paul B · Jun 30, 2019

Swimming pool Diatom powder. It is dirt cheap.

I get it on Amazon

EZ-DE Swimming Pool Diatomaceous Earth DE Filter Media Powder (36 sqft)
Sold by: Oliver Pool Products Product question? Ask Seller
Return window closed on Apr 1, 2019
$11.99
\n \n \n Cancel\n \n \n
\n","header":"Buy it again"}'> Buy it again

Dr. Dendrostein · Jun 30, 2019

Seadoc said:
A few of thoughts/questions:
1) It seems that the biggest "problem" with DE filters is their propensity for clogging after a few hours/days. Would it be feasible to create a staggered filtering system so bigger particles are filtered before the DE canister? Same thing could be postulated for "BRS-type" sediment filters. Using a stepped filtering approach could avoid depleting the capacity of the small pore filters too soon.
2) I have been trying to find without luck information regarding any parasite attachment mechanisms to the substrate. Are the encysting forms easy to dislodge or do they secure themselves to the substrate and can not be easily pushed into the water column?
3) Although it is likely that DE filters can't eradicate parasitic infections in DTs, I wonder if this is possible in a QT environment where there are fewer places for cystic forms to hide and agitation of the QT bottom is easily done. I saw in this thread that some have used DE filters as part of quarantine protocols. For those who have, are there any differences in quarantine time or need for chemicals/medications when using DE or any other 1 micron filters? Do you agitate/aspirate the bottom of the QT when you suspect ich/velvet? If this holds, it may be a great approach for new systems to avoid introduction of parasites through fish and I wonder if it could also be extrapolated to inverts/corals.

I'm using DE filtration for NPS softies, here's my DIY filter can be smaller to. 5 Micron filter seams the best

I charge 1-2 weeks

My favorite link

https://web.archive.org/web/2015070...articles/management/Lawler_Diatomfilters.html

Dr. Dendrostein · Jun 30, 2019

Planning to get Hayward EC40AC DE filter

skr791346 · Jun 30, 2019

Jomama said:
I'm using DE filtration for NPS softies, here's my DIY filter can be smaller to. 5 Micron filter seams the best

I charge 1-2 weeks

My favorite link

https://web.archive.org/web/2015070...articles/management/Lawler_Diatomfilters.html

Are you running your DE filtration 24/7 in your NPS system? If so, have you noticed any negative response from corals, inverts or fish?

Dr. Dendrostein · Jun 30, 2019

skr791346 said:
Are you running your DE filtration 24/7 in your NPS system? If so, have you noticed any negative response from corals, inverts or fish?

None, some large Aquarium institutions run 24/7. DE filters in refugium away from DT. Dosing food in DT. Give corals time to eat before food goes to DE filter. I love it. Some members here run for SPS,LPS, surprisingly and especially for FOWLR.

Feet4Fish · Jul 1, 2019

Jomama said:
None, some large Aquarium institutions run 24/7. DE filters in refugium away from DT. Dosing food in DT. Give corals time to eat before food goes to DE filter. I love it. Some members here run for SPS,LPS, surprisingly and especially for FOWLR.

Thinking about a whole system DE filter for my new FOWLR build. Who are some members with them on their FOWLR systems? I would love to ask them a couple questions!