Dino way worse after adding dinox

Jake_the_reefer

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So I am on my second dose of dinox because my nano tank has had a pretty aggressive outbreak. During the treatment I've left only blue light on with skimming. Ever since I added dinox the dino has spread faster than I've ever seen, this morning there was a little bit now there is an insane amount. Am I using it wrong? I add 1.5ml for 10g (accounting for 2 gal displaced by rock)
Will it eventually get better with dinox? Is this a side effect of the dinox

20190929_184826.jpg 20190929_184544.jpg 20190929_184542.jpg
 
Like there was only a little bit in the tank and now it has escalated to this in 24 hours
 
People do have mixed results with Dino X and similar products. Some strains are unaffected by it. Some get worse. Some come back shortly after. Have you IDed yours?
 
I used Dino X and I have no clue if it worked or not, but I did find that Dosing Phyto every night and overfeeding my tank to raise the nutrients seemed to help more than anything else. If it is Dinos then they strive in low nutrient environments, so you have to promote green algae to out compete the Dinos.
 
I used Dino X and I have no clue if it worked or not, but I did find that Dosing Phyto every night and overfeeding my tank to raise the nutrients seemed to help more than anything else. If it is Dinos then they strive in low nutrient environments, so you have to promote green algae to out compete the Dinos.

Increasing nutrients through feeding will and more than nitrates and phosphates like sulfur and carbon which can trigger other blooms like cyanobacteria. Dosing inorganic sources like Spectrocide stump remover for KNO3 and Seachem Flourish for phosphates will add only what you want and need. Plus the inorganic sources are more readily taken up by the competitors to dinos helping to prevent them from sustaining a bloom.

Ostreopsis usually respond favorably to the nutrient dosing strategy.
 
Increasing nutrients through feeding will and more than nitrates and phosphates like sulfur and carbon which can trigger other blooms like cyanobacteria. Dosing inorganic sources like Spectrocide stump remover for KNO3 and Seachem Flourish for phosphates will add only what you want and need. Plus the inorganic sources are more readily taken up by the competitors to dinos helping to prevent them from sustaining a bloom.

Ostreopsis usually respond favorably to the nutrient dosing strategy.
I do have a bottle of flourish in my fridge from when I did a planted tank a year ago. Should I use it? How much per gallon?
 
Ostreopsis dino which I confirmed with microscope
I briefly had the same strain, a cheap UV and feeding more/ dosing nitrates completely knocked it out in a couple days. Be glad it isn't one of the more difficult to deal with strains.
 
Have you tried doing a 3 day blackout on the tank combined with increased flow on all affected areas?

Might be worth a try
 
I do have a bottle of flourish in my fridge from when I did a planted tank a year ago. Should I use it? How much per gallon?

There are dosing instructions on the bottle I believe. Dose enough to maintain phosphates at 0.1 ppm. Check daily as they will get used quickly at first and some point the amount you need to dose will sharply reduce. That will indicate you have turned a corner.

I briefly had the same strain, a cheap UV and feeding more/ dosing nitrates completely knocked it out in a couple days. Be glad it isn't one of the more difficult to deal with strains.

Increasing nutrients through feeding will and more than nitrates and phosphates like sulfur and carbon which can trigger other blooms like cyanobacteria. Dosing inorganic sources like Spectrocide stump remover for KNO3 and Seachem Flourish for phosphates will add only what you want and need. Plus the inorganic sources are more readily taken up by the competitors to dinos helping to prevent them from sustaining a bloom.

Ostreopsis usually respond favorably to the nutrient dosing strategy.

Have you tried doing a 3 day blackout on the tank combined with increased flow on all affected areas?

Might be worth a try

Blackouts are a temporary solution and they nearly always come back. It is a good way to get more of them into the water column for UV to be more effective though. Same with increased flow. But if you want them to be gone and stay gone, then nutrient control is by far the best approach because you won't need a UV running all the time heating your water and increasing your power bill. This was my experience with UV and nutrient dosing when I had dinos. Beat them over a year ago and no sign of return.
 
Looking at the pictures on my phone and what is growing in my tank is it possible I have a mix of dino and Calothrix? Because I have the long black threads that indicate ostreopsis dino (microscope confirmed) but I had cyano a few months ago and could it have turned into Calothrix? The image attached is the possible Calothrix which I thought was gha but discovered I had dino

20190913_215006.jpg
 
Can't tell what I'm looking at with the blue lights on but it is not just possible but likely you have a mix. Most tanks always have a mix of something. Dinos are always the worst and should be addressed first due to the potential to over run the tank and release toxins into the water that can impact livestock.
 
Can't tell what I'm looking at with the blue lights on but it is not just possible but likely you have a mix. Most tanks always have a mix of something. Dinos are always the worst and should be addressed first due to the potential to over run the tank and release toxins into the water that can impact livestock.
I nuked the tank last. Night, took out all the Rocks and corals and scrubbed the crap out of them vacuumed the sand bed and added peroxide
 
I was literally about to type such an offer, we 100% want your pics for the sand rinse thread to compare outcomes

It’s not a nuking, what you just did is called opting out of being invaded. It’ll work if you are prepared and willing to do touch up removal for any dinos left in rock crevices, keep up water changes. If you didn’t transfer any detritus into the new system then it will not recycle

Those dinos were going to kill your corals if you didn’t act.
 
I was literally about to type such an offer, we 100% want your pics for the sand rinse thread to compare outcomes

It’s not a nuking, what you just did is called opting out of being invaded. It’ll work if you are prepared and willing to do touch up removal for any dinos left in rock crevices, keep up water changes. If you didn’t transfer any detritus into the new system then it will not recycle

Those dinos were going to kill your corals if you didn’t act.
I might filter the water again. I filtered all my tank water into a 200 micron sock filled with filter floss and sand. Then syphoned the sand (not stired just to avoid a cycle) now that the dino is off the rocks I feel the uv steralizer can fully do its job
 
How long should I refrain from water changes? My 20g has maybe 2 small strands of dino per day and my 10 is the crazy infested.
 
All of my zoas are closes still and have been closed since this started a few weeks ago all other corals are open. I may need to test iodide and dose.
 
I recommend a few water changes of large/all volume, its not harmful. once you go down the manual control route you can go full bore. large wc are not harmful, look what I did to my 13 yr old reef anything you do is a quarter this insulting. just drag through the video don't have to watch it all, see how long my tank is drained in the air and then refilled for a 150% water change fresh up, secret to long nano life.


we would engage with water changes, not refrain. blast out the dinos and UV handles regrowth absolutely solid plan.

12 hrs later

happy
 
Can you post the microscope picture of your dinos? It's pretty unusual for ostreopsis to not respond to UV fairly dramatically. There might be a second species there that has now become predominate.
 

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