Dino way worse after adding dinox

Jake_the_reefer · Oct 2, 2019

saltyhog said:
Can you post the microscope picture of your dinos? It's pretty unusual for ostreopsis to not respond to UV fairly dramatically. There might be a second species there that has now become predominate.

Heres micro. Mind you it's a very bad picture. The dino reacted great to uv in my 20g I think it's possible since the dino was so established in my 10g the uv has alot of work to do. I cleaned all the rocks off and the sandbed so hopefully the uv can take over from here.

Jake_the_reefer · Oct 2, 2019

Heres some in tank shots. I have white channel off to stunt growth. If it's not better tomorrow I'm going to do a blackout

brandon429 · Oct 2, 2019

and always be removing the mass manually before these actions, forcing them to lose regrouping mass is a key benefit of direct intervention on small tanks. Ive never seen invasive dinos or cyano abate after one try, it usually takes a few helping follow ups but not as full tank cleanings just 1 gallon siphon removals and replace/easier now that the big job is done.

also, its handy to remove sandbeds altogether, fix the tank free of dinos with rocks only (less hiding space) and put back the bed (sterilized) only when dinos are beaten. fighting them with a sb in place makes it harder/hide and insulate there.

Bret Brinkmann · Oct 2, 2019

Jake_the_reefer said:
I nuked the tank last. Night, took out all the Rocks and corals and scrubbed the crap out of them vacuumed the sand bed and added peroxide

This also whips out the bacteria. I recommend doing MicroBactor 7. Careful not to do too much at once. Give things time to work.

Jake_the_reefer said:
I might filter the water again. I filtered all my tank water into a 200 micron sock filled with filter floss and sand. Then syphoned the sand (not stired just to avoid a cycle) now that the dino is off the rocks I feel the uv steralizer can fully do its job

Your dino strain is smaller than 200 micros and most will go straight through. You would need a 5 micron sock which flows very slowly. Siphoning clumps is good for manual removal and blowing off the rocks to put more in the water column helps UV be more effective. Blackouts work too. Did you drop the intensity and on time of your lights? If so, what to?

brandon429 said:
...we would engage with water changes, not refrain. blast out the dinos and UV handles regrowth absolutely solid plan...

This raises a good point. Not all strains respond to UV. Have you checked that both tanks have only one strain and they are both ostreopsis?

brandon429 · Oct 2, 2019

we never require an ID for our rip clean threads / works across genera

solely based on tank size. ID is needed only for water treatments/dosing/indirect means

I linked this in our sand rinse thread/23 pages no ID all manual work and clean after pics for the lucky accessible. the option to manually battle is why not any pico reef in reefing has dinos. for large tankers only...

large tankers often have rebound issues bc cleaning thoroughly is really hard for large tanks, hard to be thorough

Bret Brinkmann · Oct 2, 2019

If he is using UV it matters as some strains don't enter the water column like others. If he is going the scrub and 100% water change route then I agree.

Pick one Jake and give it a go. We're all rooting for you either way.

brandon429 - Have you noticed a cutoff point were people start saying that's too much to clean? I have a little 29 gallon and cleaning everything and doing a 100% water change would be way to much for me. I'm guessing the cutoff point is usually 10-20 gallons.

brandon429 · Oct 2, 2019

they only come to us as last resort, then they're willing to try anything.
*we have about a 90% cure rate in the sand rinse thread it is not 100%

what we do 100% is no cycle surgery, for the ones that happen to respond to the rip clean I get a lucky quick thank you and they move on. For some, like Alexreefers dino challenge in a 100 g, its ongoing work and our rip cleaning only lessens the invading mass it doesnt cure. We dont know a better way yet for the scourge! but, that one detail never leaves: zero pico reefs have dinos, not any.

people who keep picos didnt learn hands off info they learned hands on, so thats why i hypothesize that size and access is #1 in all invasion battle options

our deep cleaning is supposed to directly access hangers on who dont have a pelagic phase to be caught by uv

Jake_the_reefer · Oct 2, 2019

Bret Brinkmann said:
This also whips out the bacteria. I recommend doing MicroBactor 7. Careful not to do too much at once. Give things time to work.

Your dino strain is smaller than 200 micros and most will go straight through. You would need a 5 micron sock which flows very slowly. Siphoning clumps is good for manual removal and blowing off the rocks to put more in the water column helps UV be more effective. Blackouts work too. Did you drop the intensity and on time of your lights? If so, what to?

This raises a good point. Not all strains respond to UV. Have you checked that both tanks have only one strain and they are both ostreopsis?

I would assume both my 20 and 10g are the same dino because I got some coral for both my tanks from my lfs come to find out their tanks are infected with it. I confirmed the Id in my 20g as ostreopsis but returned the microscope before dino even showed in my 10g. My light intensity is now 0% white, green, red. And blue was reduced 25%

Jake_the_reefer · Oct 2, 2019

Also I should add my sandbed is accidentally too deep at an ~1.25 inches I can slowly remove the bed via siphoning over time to not disturb it.

vetteguy53081 · Oct 2, 2019

DINOx must be added at night or lights out. Water flow pretty strong and some method of entrapment such as filter socks at sump to entrap loose particles of dino.
Also Run Zero whites and low blue to create near blackout for about a week and NO coral food such as roids or aminos as they will feed Dino.
You should see a difference

Jake_the_reefer · Oct 2, 2019

vetteguy53081 said:
DINOx must be added at night or lights out. Water flow pretty strong and some method of entrapment such as filter socks at sump to entrap loose particles of dino.
Also Run Zero whites and low blue to create near blackout for about a week and NO coral food such as roids or aminos as they will feed Dino.
You should see a difference

Okay. That's one of my errors as well. Been keeping up on reef roids but discontinued the aminos.

Jake_the_reefer · Oct 6, 2019

Update. I did a 3 day blackout with peroxide nightly, there is nothing left on the rockwork or sand! I'm hoping that this will be the end of it. I'm going to do a water change tomorrow and see how it goes!

vetteguy53081 · Oct 6, 2019

Jake_the_reefer said:
Update. I did a 3 day blackout with peroxide nightly, there is nothing left on the rockwork or sand! I'm hoping that this will be the end of it. I'm going to do a water change tomorrow and see how it goes!

There you guy !! told you that would work. Dino is still there but un-noticeable. Continue Peroxide with low light gradually bringing it up to your normal lighting. Dose .5 mil now daily in the early morning and again in the evening before lights out for the next 6-8 weeks . Congrats on winning the battle.

Jake_the_reefer · Oct 6, 2019

vetteguy53081 said:
There you guy !! told you that would work. Dino is still there but un-noticeable. Continue Peroxide with low light gradually bringing it up to your normal lighting. Dose .5 mil now daily in the early morning and again in the evening before lights out for the next 6-8 weeks . Congrats on winning the battle.

I'm going to start phyto now. The bottle says 1 drop per gallon should I do more? Its live phyto. Also how long between phyto and peroxide should i wait

vetteguy53081 · Oct 6, 2019

Jake_the_reefer said:
I'm going to start phyto now. The bottle says 1 drop per gallon should I do more? Its live phyto. Also how long between phyto and peroxide should i wait

8-12 hours