Dinos…help with ID/treatment

[11f150]

This is going to be an updated thread with pictures once I get my microscope in. Background to what I believe caused them. My phosphates were rapidly increasing so I ran some gfo. The phosphates never got to zero but they did drop rapidly even only using 1/2 cup of gfo on a slow flow. Lowest I saw them go to was .05. Once I saw what I believe are Dino’s I stopped GFO and I’m letting my tank run higher nutrients. Last night when I tested I was at .14 phos and 12.5 nitrates. I’ve also been dosing mb7 for about a week. Here is a picture of what I pulled out of my tank tonight. I added hydrogen peroxide to the sample and did not see any bubbles. Will post a picture of what I see with a microscope. I’m just trying to keep things stable with nutrients and have been blowing my tank off with a turkey baster and catching everything with a filter sock daily.

 

[SchrutesReefs]

Welp, if it is dinos you’re doing a great job already with your current methods. For most here to help they’re going to need a pic under a scope. A UV wouldn’t hurt if you don’t have one.
is it on the sand and rocks? Are they stringy with bubbles? Disappear at night into the water column?

 

[11f150]

Welp, if it is dinos you’re doing a great job already with your current methods. For most here to help they’re going to need a pic under a scope. A UV wouldn’t hurt if you don’t have one.
is it on the sand and rocks? Are they stringy with bubbles? Disappear at night into the water column?

One thing I dont have is a scope but it will be here tomorrow. I do have a 80w pentair UV that I need to get a new bulb for before using it, I may get that ball rolling though. Will need to figure out what type of flow to shoot for, I have around 350 gallons total between 2 tanks and a large sump. They are on my rocks in my display but mainly on egg crate in my other tank. They are stringy with bubbles.

 

[BurgerFish]

Always the same treatment: rise nitrates, dose bacteria or put a live rock.

UV won't fix the cause and dinos will be back .

 

[Just John]

For the UV, low flow is always what has been recommended to me. Dinos need a longer exposure to the UV than a lot of other things. This document will help. There are descriptions to look at even if you don't have a microscope picture yet.

 

[vetteguy53081]

This is going to be an updated thread with pictures once I get my microscope in. Background to what I believe caused them. My phosphates were rapidly increasing so I ran some gfo. The phosphates never got to zero but they did drop rapidly even only using 1/2 cup of gfo on a slow flow. Lowest I saw them go to was .05. Once I saw what I believe are Dino’s I stopped GFO and I’m letting my tank run higher nutrients. Last night when I tested I was at .14 phos and 12.5 nitrates. I’ve also been dosing mb7 for about a week. Here is a picture of what I pulled out of my tank tonight. I added hydrogen peroxide to the sample and did not see any bubbles. Will post a picture of what I see with a microscope. I’m just trying to keep things stable with nutrients and have been blowing my tank off with a turkey baster and catching everything with a filter sock daily.

This wont show much but a pic of tank under white lighting will help. As for UV, in conjunction with a blackout period will help but this below is very effective and easier than it sounds:
Its biological deficiencies that are causing the dino structure and tank is already doomed.
No light is first key followed by the addition of bacteria to overcome the bad bacteria allowing them to thrive
Prepare by starting by blowing this stuff loose with a turkey baster and siphon up loose particles. Turn lights off (at least white and run blue at 10-15% IF you have light dependant corals) for 5 days and at night dose 1ml of 3% hydrogen peroxide per 10 gallons for all 5 nights. If you dont have light dependent coral- turn all lights off. During the day dose 1ml of liquid bacteria (such as micro bacter 7 or XLM) per 10 gallons. Clean filters daily and DO NOT FEED CORAL FOODS OR ADD NOPOX
You can fish fish as normal and if blackout, ambient light in room will work for them

 

[Hurricane Aquatics]

This is going to be an updated thread with pictures once I get my microscope in. Background to what I believe caused them. My phosphates were rapidly increasing so I ran some gfo. The phosphates never got to zero but they did drop rapidly even only using 1/2 cup of gfo on a slow flow. Lowest I saw them go to was .05. Once I saw what I believe are Dino’s I stopped GFO and I’m letting my tank run higher nutrients. Last night when I tested I was at .14 phos and 12.5 nitrates. I’ve also been dosing mb7 for about a week. Here is a picture of what I pulled out of my tank tonight. I added hydrogen peroxide to the sample and did not see any bubbles. Will post a picture of what I see with a microscope. I’m just trying to keep things stable with nutrients and have been blowing my tank off with a turkey baster and catching everything with a filter sock daily.

How old is your tank and did you use macro rock?

 

[SchrutesReefs]

Before @vetteguy53081 seemed to be helping daily with dino issues… I recently battled them myself, I had let my nutrients bottom out because I got lazy testing. Stopped water changes, did manual removal via hose and filter sock about 4/5 times/week. Adding a UV, Dosing pods and phyto twice per week. 2 blackouts of 3 days each about a 6 weeks apart. Raised my nitrates to 10 and my phosphates to .08 and Dosed 1ml per gallon of h2o2 once a day after lights out for the last week. I am not going to say I am dino free, but I am no longer seeing them on my sand bed or rocks. Still haven't done a wc out of fear tbh. But fish and coral are happy.
Good luck, and don’t give up.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Before @vetteguy53081 seemed to be helping daily with dino issues… I recently battled them myself, I had let my nutrients bottom out because I got lazy testing. Stopped water changes, did manual removal via hose and filter sock about 4/5 times/week. Adding a UV, Dosing pods and phyto twice per week. 2 blackouts of 3 days each about a 6 weeks apart. Raised my nitrates to 10 and my phosphates to .08 and Dosed 1ml per gallon of h2o2 once a day after lights out for the last week. I am not going to say I am dino free, but I am no longer seeing them on my sand bed or rocks. Still haven't done a wc out of fear tbh. But fish and coral are happy.
Good luck, and don’t give up.

With the zero readings, when we see zero readings, automatically we assume this is the cause but by the time you see zero numbers, its because the dino has consumed the po4 and no3 and are multiplying and in turn many dose no3 and po4 to bring numbers up not realizing they are feeding these flagellates even more.

 

[SchrutesReefs]

Solid point. I have noticed you pop up on several dino threads lately. It’s great advice hopefully people follow it.

 

[11f150]

This wont show much but a pic of tank under white lighting will help. As for UV, in conjunction with a blackout period will help but this below is very effective and easier than it sounds:
Its biological deficiencies that are causing the dino structure and tank is already doomed.
No light is first key followed by the addition of bacteria to overcome the bad bacteria allowing them to thrive
Prepare by starting by blowing this stuff loose with a turkey baster and siphon up loose particles. Turn lights off (at least white and run blue at 10-15% IF you have light dependant corals) for 5 days and at night dose 1ml of 3% hydrogen peroxide per 10 gallons for all 5 nights. If you dont have light dependent coral- turn all lights off. During the day dose 1ml of liquid bacteria (such as micro bacter 7 or XLM) per 10 gallons. Clean filters daily and DO NOT FEED CORAL FOODS OR ADD NOPOX
You can fish fish as normal and if blackout, ambient light in room will work for them

Thanks for the response. Ive been doing some of this already but will do exactly what you said. I will post a picture tomorrow hopefully of them under a microscope.

 

[11f150]

Got my microscope and trying to get some pictures. This is all very new to me, let me know if this is what I’m looking for or if I need more pictures.

 

[11f150]

@vetteguy53081

 

[Just John]

Got my microscope and trying to get some pictures. This is all very new to me, let me know if this is what I’m looking for or if I need more pictures.

Wasn't that document by @taricha of any help?

 

[11f150]

 

[11f150]

Here’s one more

 

[11f150]

Wasn't that document by @taricha of any help?

I’ll have to try to find it when I get on my computer

 

[vetteguy53081]

Got my microscope and trying to get some pictures. This is all very new to me, let me know if this is what I’m looking for or if I need more pictures.

Looks like small cell amphidium. The method I gave you will address and rid of these. Follow it exactly

 

[11f150]

Looks like small cell amphidium. The method I gave you will address and rid of these. Follow it exactly

Ok thank you. Ordered a 2 liter of MB7 this morning, already have the lights down alot. Not sure if the corals will be happy but should be ok for 5 days

 

[brandon429]

Dinoflagelates. A disruptive treatment

THE PROBLEM As is well known, dinoflagellate pests in the reef aquarium are perhaps the worst that we will face during the life of our system. These pests are quite difficult to eradicate because dinoflagellates have a great capacity for...

www.reef2reef.com

I believe you should try that due to the size and scope of your tank, and because that method can't harm it is safe to try in my opinion. if it doesn't work you'll wind up in the same place it's heading now even if you didn't try. there's nothing to lose in trying a method backed by that study. you should send a private message to the author and collaborate remotely on a tank fix run for your setup. what to add, when to add it, how to respond to systemic changes during the run.