DINO's SUCK
- Thread starter TK_KW
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How is your UV plumbed, what wattage/unit are you using and how much flow through the UV unit? These are important.
I can't say for certain from those pictures, could you post a video to see how they move? I'll tag our resident dino idea expert. @taricha
It looks like you have at least one type of diatom already. They should multiply rapidly with silicate dosing.
OP
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TK_KW
Valuable Member
UV 314 gph
Turbo twist 12x UV
Plumbed heading back to display from sump. Feed from one of two cor20s that feed display. Flow rate could be adjusted either way
Silicate dosing?
I'll have to try and get a video once I'm home later
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TK_KW
Valuable Member
and why is that???
Silent
2500 Club Member
Mainly because it is low power (wattage). Here is a good read for you.
UVC Sterilization | How Aquarium & Pond UV Sterilizers Work
Information how a TRUE Aquarium, Pond UV Sterilizer/clarifier work. Category A, B, & C Sterilizers. Affect on green water, disease prevention, & Redox
www.americanaquariumproducts.com
For UV to be most effective you need about 1 watt/3 gallons(this is an imprecise estimate but it works) and it needs to be plumbed from the display back to the display. Plumbing from the sump/manifold seems to not be very effectibe.
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TK_KW
Valuable Member
Display back to sump isn't a option, nor is it now.
you'd plumb a 1 1/2" drain then reduce to 1" for UV then to sump, i don't think so. Im better off adding a second then maybe? Or get a residential one from one of my suppliers and plumb it in.
And with that calculation I'd need three UVs lol
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TK_KW
Valuable Member
I've reached out to my suppliers to get some pricing on a much larger UV. Get away from aquarium sales of UVs that are sub par. Maybe even add one on each cor20 heading back to system and go overkill on it.
Thanks, article was very informative
SPS2020
2500 Club Member
Display back to sump isn't a option, nor is it now.
you'd plumb a 1 1/2" drain then reduce to 1" for UV then to sump, i don't think so. Im better off adding a second then maybe? Or get a residential one from one of my suppliers and plumb it in.
And with that calculation I'd need three UVs lol
I dropped one of these in my 60 gallon (not including sump) and it helped tremendously. You could put three in your tank and that would give you 72 watts. Not as good as a more expensive inline alternative, but convenient. These should be around $73 each, so watch and compare prices.
This is what I now have plumbed on my EXT 100:
Aqua Ultraviolet Classic Inline UV Sterilizer 57 Watt Black 2" @ Fish Tanks Direct
Searching For Aqua Ultraviolet Classic Inline UV Sterilizer 57 Watt Black 2" To Purify Water In Your Aquarium Or Pond? Grab Yours Today @ Fish Tanks Direct, 00070, 00617750000701
www.fishtanksdirect.com
Display back to sump isn't a option, nor is it now.
you'd plumb a 1 1/2" drain then reduce to 1" for UV then to sump, i don't think so. Im better off adding a second then maybe? Or get a residential one from one of my suppliers and plumb it in.
And with that calculation I'd need three UVs lol
Sorry for the misunderstanding. Most people run a small dedicated pump from the DT to the UV and back to the DT. Never run it off your return line for dinos. For a 220 a Sicce 1.5 pumping 351gph would suffice.
Display back to sump isn't a option, nor is it now.
you'd plumb a 1 1/2" drain then reduce to 1" for UV then to sump, i don't think so. Im better off adding a second then maybe? Or get a residential one from one of my suppliers and plumb it in.
And with that calculation I'd need three UVs lol
If you have confirmed your dino species as something other than LC Amphidinium, then your idea of temporarily hanging a second 57 watt UV off the display is a fine idea. It is temporary. I built a pvc "U" shaped contraption that not only serves as the plumbing but the hanger as well. It hangs behind the display when I need to chase the buggers off. Then it just goes back to the basement.
SkinnyMcGinny
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Hang tough. IMHO, dinos are the toughest fight in this hobby. I have 300 gallon mixed reef and about 3-4 years ago waged a major war with dinos. I tried, blackouts, hydrogen peroxide dosing, vacuuming them out, etc... Nothing was a magic bullet. The lights came on and they'd grow. Water changes seemed to make them worse. I did add a UV light, which might have helped (and I like for Ich management),
But believe the way I cured my dinos was to get my nutrient levels UP, so that other algae's, like green turf algae, could grow and outcompete them. The dinos seemed to slowly be replaced by green algae. Then I tossed a half dozen turbo snails in, and they munched it all up!
I haven't had a dino outbreak in years. I do keep my phosphate/nitrate levels a little higher. I think dinos happen in tanks that don't have enough nutrients.
good luck, hang tough, and know you will beat them -- but it might take some time.
But believe the way I cured my dinos was to get my nutrient levels UP, so that other algae's, like green turf algae, could grow and outcompete them. The dinos seemed to slowly be replaced by green algae. Then I tossed a half dozen turbo snails in, and they munched it all up!
I haven't had a dino outbreak in years. I do keep my phosphate/nitrate levels a little higher. I think dinos happen in tanks that don't have enough nutrients.
good luck, hang tough, and know you will beat them -- but it might take some time.
Looks like amphidinium to me but we'll see what @taricha thinks. If it is, it's not really susceptible to UV. Is yours mainly on the sand bed or on the rocks/coral as well?
AbjectMaelstroM
Valuable Member
This is how I rigged by 55w Jebao on my 120g for my Osteprosis outbreak. Week and half later, they're gone. I also dosed nutrients. Will be taking it down this weekend.
So if yours turns out to be the kind that goes in the water column at night, should be very effective.
